I use ecu to control vnt vanes and hp turbine bypass. then I use manifold boost to control gate on the LP unit at high rpm, as there anway HP vanes are open and hp bypass opens on rpm/load in a open loop way, the more it opens the more the LP boosts and as the HP if fully opened its a matter till the bypass is open enough so the HP is fully disabled and the boost is solely controlled by the LP wastegate based on manifold boost.
slow, dumb, cheap compound setup!
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This really makes me want to get a light weight SDI and mess around...
Also just to add I really enjoy reading and learning on this post. I really do need to pick up Maximum Boost by Corky Bell to better understand this stuff.
Ah, with your description of the controls yours is definitely more toward the sequential type of compounds then.
Mine is just computer controlling vanes below 16 PSI (1.1 BAR) with very limited travel, then the HP wastegate is just TIAL MV-S clone, packed full of springs, with HP boost under the diaphragm and LP boost atop the diaphragm, then LP wastegate is just directly to LP boost.
Trying to get both turbos working together to get airflow through pressure, rather than the aftermarket camshafts others all seem to use.
my "throw whatever on as an LP" comment was more toward one with a turbo already on there
you want at least the HP to be properly matched to the engine.
As an update, bought a bunch of junk to toss at the HP turbo in a fit of panic (I don't want to clean broken turbo bits out of my charge coolers, nor replace both my turbos when one lets go)
All this time I'd forgotten that I'd divided the MAF data by two to get around the ECU's limitations. Ruben was kind enough to point out that my mass flow figures were very low, and that reminded me of this little detail.
Turns out I'm right in the middle on the LP map, and slightly toward the surge line on the HP map, but not over it. Going to turn up the LP wastegate and see if it gets worse.
Anyone want to buy an oddly sized machined compressor wheel and turbine?
All this time I'd forgotten that I'd divided the MAF data by two to get around the ECU's limitations. Ruben was kind enough to point out that my mass flow figures were very low, and that reminded me of this little detail.
Turns out I'm right in the middle on the LP map, and slightly toward the surge line on the HP map, but not over it. Going to turn up the LP wastegate and see if it gets worse.
Anyone want to buy an oddly sized machined compressor wheel and turbine?
Machineman
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Aug 25, 2014
- Location
- ontario canada
- TDI
- 2007 RS4 Titanium 3.0TDI & 2013 Touareg TDI & B6 S4 BHW Swap Biturbo
Trying to get both turbos working together to get airflow through pressure, rather than the aftermarket camshafts others all seem to use.
Is this the solution for lack of a camshaft lol i think thats what im aiming for
Is this the solution for lack of a camshaft lol i think thats what im aiming for
stock cam, so far
it's got some galling on the leading edge of the lobes, but it's been there the last 20k miles, so I don't think it's hurting anything. I should probably do something about my valvesprings, but with the boost/emp ratio I'm running there shouldn't be any valves being blown open as there's similar pressure on both sides.
Had it in the air yesterday to toss on a couple tires and fill the gearbox oil, noticed that the only thing holding the torque mount's bolt in was the plastic skidplate
Also noticed quite an exhaust leak from the 1752s' outlet flange. Half mm gap on one side Never did flatten the hot rolled steel I made that flange out of. Probably could get some more scoot out of the atmospheric turbo sealing that up. **** of it is that the whole setup's just about got to come out to gain access. Thinking about dropping the crossmember to get at it all, but I dunno until I try. Either way, time for another major refit when winter comes. Going to put in the machined wheel and try running boost controllers on the wastegates to get some more boost out of it.
In the more short term, got all the stuff for the lift pump, minus the filter head. I was going to make one but just can't find the drive to get off my butt and do it. Should order one once I'm done writing this post.
Finally got around to taking some pics
stuffed another suction line into the sender, took some brain work to figure out how best to do it, was expecting the return to go to a jet pump sorta thing but it doesn't...
'Ere's the pump.
yup, in the cabin, couldn't find a nice convenient place for it underneath. Note to anyone else in the future, buy an inline pump shaped like an 044 or whatever, there's a spot molded into the tank where you can stick it underneath. This one's too big for that space.
Ran the fuel line down the rocker and out a rust hole in the front wheel well.
Tried a bunch to snake the push lock through the normal fuel line channel, but it just wouldn't squeeze through.
Haven't really got any more on the pump sorted, just did that all today.
There's a pic of the back, just because I had the camera out and all, gouges and dings are from the 5-6 engines and transmissions that've been back there, among tons of other assorted stuff.
Had to put a "steam line" onto the IC, the fittings are drilled halfway up the end tanks. Great if you're putting it on end, but terrible if you've got it flat.
Passat coolant tank fits. Thinking about running just the one and getting rid of the golf one, but that's something that'll come later if it does.
1st gen prius pump
black is power white is ground, wire it up with romex to get in the right mindset, if you have to.
Look no further than the lower right to see my beautiful ground point. Ended up powering it straight from the switched lug under the dash, figured why complicate it with switches to run it at partial speed or whatever.
What a rats nest. Sometimes I think about just dumping in a n/a 1.6D in.
Got the inverter rad from a 1st gen prius too. Fits real nice, just gotta hack out a bunch of plastic to get it to fit, can barely even tell it's there. Stealthy. Style. Class. Panache.
Ended up making the filter head. 2.5 hours or so, cranked out on a taiwanese jet lathe and an italian BP 1J clone mill
because I found a filter that is 6 micron rated, with a drain on it, only problem is it's a real wierd 15/16"-16 thread, thus making a filter base when one would be easier to buy
Not that the drain will ever get used, it just makes me feel better for some reason or another. Haven't ever touched the one on the stock filter... Maybe I'm kinda dumb sometimes.
stuffed another suction line into the sender, took some brain work to figure out how best to do it, was expecting the return to go to a jet pump sorta thing but it doesn't...
'Ere's the pump.
yup, in the cabin, couldn't find a nice convenient place for it underneath. Note to anyone else in the future, buy an inline pump shaped like an 044 or whatever, there's a spot molded into the tank where you can stick it underneath. This one's too big for that space.
Ran the fuel line down the rocker and out a rust hole in the front wheel well.
Tried a bunch to snake the push lock through the normal fuel line channel, but it just wouldn't squeeze through.
Haven't really got any more on the pump sorted, just did that all today.
There's a pic of the back, just because I had the camera out and all, gouges and dings are from the 5-6 engines and transmissions that've been back there, among tons of other assorted stuff.
Had to put a "steam line" onto the IC, the fittings are drilled halfway up the end tanks. Great if you're putting it on end, but terrible if you've got it flat.
Passat coolant tank fits. Thinking about running just the one and getting rid of the golf one, but that's something that'll come later if it does.
1st gen prius pump
black is power white is ground, wire it up with romex to get in the right mindset, if you have to.
Look no further than the lower right to see my beautiful ground point. Ended up powering it straight from the switched lug under the dash, figured why complicate it with switches to run it at partial speed or whatever.
What a rats nest. Sometimes I think about just dumping in a n/a 1.6D in.
Got the inverter rad from a 1st gen prius too. Fits real nice, just gotta hack out a bunch of plastic to get it to fit, can barely even tell it's there. Stealthy. Style. Class. Panache.
Ended up making the filter head. 2.5 hours or so, cranked out on a taiwanese jet lathe and an italian BP 1J clone mill
because I found a filter that is 6 micron rated, with a drain on it, only problem is it's a real wierd 15/16"-16 thread, thus making a filter base when one would be easier to buy
Not that the drain will ever get used, it just makes me feel better for some reason or another. Haven't ever touched the one on the stock filter... Maybe I'm kinda dumb sometimes.
pump is loud, threw a jacket over it and it's somewhat quieter, but man am I dumb for thinking it'd be okay to stick it inside
not much difference seat of the pants, but I've got some real lean smoke maps at the moment, was running into where it'd fall flat on its face at high fueling, didn't want to sieze another pump head hammering it with cavitation, so limited fuel. Probably reflash tomorrow.
not much difference seat of the pants, but I've got some real lean smoke maps at the moment, was running into where it'd fall flat on its face at high fueling, didn't want to sieze another pump head hammering it with cavitation, so limited fuel. Probably reflash tomorrow.
Back to the topic at hand, compound turbo sizing, last night I had a realization. A lot of stuff doesn't have interstage charge cooling. Axial flow engines certainly don't. Cummins QSK's don't.
With a higher HP turbo inlet temperature, the air density is lower, so the map doesn't move to the right nearly as far. The mass flow is still there, it is just a greater volume flow, which is a very good thing to get away from the compressor surge line.
The interstage temperature rise directly correlates with the interstage pressure rise, so one increase automatically compensates for the other to some degree. A self controlling sort of thing, rather than trying to open an air bleed to get more volume flow through the HP compressor.
The one big huge issue is temperature.
LP turbo, moving a PR of 2.1, 100 degree inlet temp, 300 deg outlet temp
HP turbo, same pressure ratio, 300 deg inlet, 560 deg outlet.
Aluminum loses a lot of strength around 450 degrees.
The previously mentioned cummins QSK engine with no interstage charge cooling?
Got a real fancy HP turbo to deal with it. Look up the HX83, titanium HP compressor wheel, even got a cast iron compressor housing, probably because aluminum would be so weak even in that application.
Not at all useful for me, as I don't have the resources to make a Ti compressor wheel. Still an interesting diversion in the discussion of compound compressor sizing.
With a higher HP turbo inlet temperature, the air density is lower, so the map doesn't move to the right nearly as far. The mass flow is still there, it is just a greater volume flow, which is a very good thing to get away from the compressor surge line.
The interstage temperature rise directly correlates with the interstage pressure rise, so one increase automatically compensates for the other to some degree. A self controlling sort of thing, rather than trying to open an air bleed to get more volume flow through the HP compressor.
The one big huge issue is temperature.
LP turbo, moving a PR of 2.1, 100 degree inlet temp, 300 deg outlet temp
HP turbo, same pressure ratio, 300 deg inlet, 560 deg outlet.
Aluminum loses a lot of strength around 450 degrees.
The previously mentioned cummins QSK engine with no interstage charge cooling?
Got a real fancy HP turbo to deal with it. Look up the HX83, titanium HP compressor wheel, even got a cast iron compressor housing, probably because aluminum would be so weak even in that application.
Not at all useful for me, as I don't have the resources to make a Ti compressor wheel. Still an interesting diversion in the discussion of compound compressor sizing.
You have one major misunderstanding about compressor maps. Even though the X-axis of compressor maps are usually labeled as mass flow, it really isn't mass flow that compressor care about, it's volume flow. Compressor maps mass flow value is just volume flow that is corrected to some standardized inlet conditions.
yup yup, on the HP map you multiply the mass flow values by the density of the air it is taking in
In my example above with 300 deg LP outlet and 2.1 LP pressure ratio, the density ratio that you'd multiply the HP map by is something like 1.6
With an interstage charge cooler in there and 120 deg air at the HP compressor inlet your density ratio is more like 2, and the surge line moves to a position that is hard to deal with. A compressor has to gulp down a large enough volume of air to maintain enough velocity to sustain the pressure ratio asked of it.
I convert all my maps to have mass flow on the x-axis because it's easier for me to deal with than volume flow.
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dremd
Veteran Member
- Joined
- May 31, 2007
- Location
- South Louisiana
- TDI
- 06 sprinter. 03 jetta wagon premium with 6 speed ALH swap, 14 JSW
An out of the box idea to hold temps down, tig some aluminum tubing around the areas your concerned about strength wise (other than high pressure wheel DOH) and run engine coolant through it. Probably wouldn't make huge difference in air temps, but would keep plumbing solid.
Again, an out of the box thought.
ketchupshirt88
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Oct 31, 2012
- Location
- waupaca, WI
- TDI
- 2005 Passat daily, a bunch of others in the graveyard out back...
had no idea it could get that hot, hmmm....
As for this idea, an air to water intercooler using engine coolant immediately after the HP but before an air to air FMIC would (in theory) bring it down to a decent temp before getting to the intake/head... and speed up winter warmup times, LOL.
just spit-balling here honestly... but thats where ideas come from.
not too concerned about the compressor housing or piping, as it wouldn't be seeing 40 PSI boost for long enough time to heatsoak the compressor housing. Those QSKs with the iron comp housing are loaded to rated power for continuous duty.
The thin lightweight wheels though? I can see damage coming about after an attainable number of heat cycles. If the hard use is interspersed with a lot of sitting, then it'd likely be fine as the aluminum will age harden back up, but this is my daily driver, doesn't sit often.
ETA:Google brings up a thread on here where someone's got a titanium compressor wheel. No real info in it as to where they got it or anything.
missing the point
was going over how hot interstage air is a beneficial thing in a few aspects but brings other troubles about
further, when you aren't driving hard and it's cold out you lose heat to the intake air using engine coolant in an IC. Later this winter I'll have more to put in my "EGR shenanigans" thread in the department of coolant heating.
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Flashed the torque limiter away (above 3k RPM) and put the smoke maps so it flops over to max fueling once the MAF sensor runs out of range.
my clutch smells very burnt now
So, I'm at another turning point.
The 02j synchros did not like shifting above 4k RPM with the single unsprung stock disc, so the inertia of two of them is going to be too much, which puts my twin disc creation right out the window.
0a6 trans' are $800+ so they are attainable, but at the high end of what I'd want to pay. Still FWD, still manual, and finally not near the correct ratios as they seem to be only available here behind gas motors in tiguans (there's one TT RS on car-part in CA, so those don't count either).
I've got an adapter plate put together for the 2.3 ford pinto bellhousing pattern, so I could toss the golf out and get a C4 ford trans, build it good and stout. Maybe find another ranger? Heck, no wonder video games are such a popular passtime.
my clutch smells very burnt now
So, I'm at another turning point.
The 02j synchros did not like shifting above 4k RPM with the single unsprung stock disc, so the inertia of two of them is going to be too much, which puts my twin disc creation right out the window.
0a6 trans' are $800+ so they are attainable, but at the high end of what I'd want to pay. Still FWD, still manual, and finally not near the correct ratios as they seem to be only available here behind gas motors in tiguans (there's one TT RS on car-part in CA, so those don't count either).
I've got an adapter plate put together for the 2.3 ford pinto bellhousing pattern, so I could toss the golf out and get a C4 ford trans, build it good and stout. Maybe find another ranger? Heck, no wonder video games are such a popular passtime.
FordGuy100
Veteran Member
Then your stuck with no overdrive
with a torque converter you don't need overdrive, just gear it stupid steep, got some 2.73s for a 7.5 ford, got an IRS rear from a toyota matrix that's 2.27s
Maybe a chevette, those are light and cheap. Easily tow-barable as well, could drag one in rust free. Ah well, may as well let this thread sit a while. Gonna flash the power back out of the golf so I don't have to tear it down quite so soon.
All right, got together a new twin disc (details in sig) got an 0A6 trans from a tiguan, LMU code.
Transfer case isn't going to fit with the LP turbo where it is, so it'll be FWD for a bit longer.
Clutchy bits, and compounds from a new angle. Tons of room with the subframe out.
New trans in there.
underneath, where the Tcase should go.
The shifter cables are way too short, so I've got to cobble something together.
My grandpa's old lathe may be flat worn out but it still makes parts.
Skip a few steps and the first one's almost sorted. Going to turn the crank by a tooth on the spline to get a little more engagement from the plastic rod end to the actual shifter cable. Right now only about 1/4" of rings are grabbed by the plastic fingers.
Second cable holder appears with a reinforcement bracket
stick welded, because that's all I got where the car's parked, 3/32" 6011s and 75A burns through a lot of stuff real good. Stack up the slag and it fills in.
Made a nipple thing for the rod end to go on, decided the little clips were pretty neat so used them instead of making something new.
Forgot the camera inside between trips inside to thaw the toes. Skip a bunch of steps and the crank is almost done, just gotta weld the last arm to the rod in this image. It's now welded and painted, drying as I type.
Still plugging away, hating the 10 mpg that my fox body ford's getting, it does make nice heat though.
Transfer case isn't going to fit with the LP turbo where it is, so it'll be FWD for a bit longer.
Clutchy bits, and compounds from a new angle. Tons of room with the subframe out.
New trans in there.
underneath, where the Tcase should go.
The shifter cables are way too short, so I've got to cobble something together.
My grandpa's old lathe may be flat worn out but it still makes parts.
Skip a few steps and the first one's almost sorted. Going to turn the crank by a tooth on the spline to get a little more engagement from the plastic rod end to the actual shifter cable. Right now only about 1/4" of rings are grabbed by the plastic fingers.
Second cable holder appears with a reinforcement bracket
stick welded, because that's all I got where the car's parked, 3/32" 6011s and 75A burns through a lot of stuff real good. Stack up the slag and it fills in.
Made a nipple thing for the rod end to go on, decided the little clips were pretty neat so used them instead of making something new.
Forgot the camera inside between trips inside to thaw the toes. Skip a bunch of steps and the crank is almost done, just gotta weld the last arm to the rod in this image. It's now welded and painted, drying as I type.
Still plugging away, hating the 10 mpg that my fox body ford's getting, it does make nice heat though.
I looked at the shifter to try and gain some length and saw it was in/under the floor, said "no way I'm messing with that" and moved on.
I guess you just drop it out the bottom and then plop it back on top of the trans tunnel? Holesaw for the firewall, etc...
I could see it being more comfortable... Eh, already got it together, gonna work on getting axle shafts in it today.
So, skip a lot more steps and it's ready to drive. Or at least I thought it was.
Turns out the newer starter for the 6 speeds has a different tooth form to it? It's more of a stub tooth form than a normal tooth form.
So, I've made the flywheel with the ring gear from an 02j flywheel positioned so I use the starter for the 02m/0a6 which has 10mm more pinion projection than the 02j starter. I could not find an 0a6 or 02m flywheel ring gear without buying a whole single mass fw
Nose cones are pretty much interchangeable, the factory 6spd one has a needle roller bearing in it, the bosch reman 02j has an oilite bushing. Dimensions appear to be similar.
The pinion itself is where the length difference comes from.
I need to make the 02j starter pinion 10mm longer. If it were the other way around I could just space the whole starter further out of the trans...
Any input from you guys? Anyone got a buttload of starters on the shelf to compare?
ETA: it's looking like 09+ has the oddball teeth
02j starter pinion: 1006 209 699
09+ starter pinion 1006 209 847
1006 209 813 looks like it might work!
Turns out the newer starter for the 6 speeds has a different tooth form to it? It's more of a stub tooth form than a normal tooth form.
So, I've made the flywheel with the ring gear from an 02j flywheel positioned so I use the starter for the 02m/0a6 which has 10mm more pinion projection than the 02j starter. I could not find an 0a6 or 02m flywheel ring gear without buying a whole single mass fw
Nose cones are pretty much interchangeable, the factory 6spd one has a needle roller bearing in it, the bosch reman 02j has an oilite bushing. Dimensions appear to be similar.
The pinion itself is where the length difference comes from.
I need to make the 02j starter pinion 10mm longer. If it were the other way around I could just space the whole starter further out of the trans...
Any input from you guys? Anyone got a buttload of starters on the shelf to compare?
ETA: it's looking like 09+ has the oddball teeth
02j starter pinion: 1006 209 699
09+ starter pinion 1006 209 847
1006 209 813 looks like it might work!
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Hi - apologies i I get confused in what's being asked.
I have/had a Audi A3 1.8T (going into detail in case relevant) and pretty sure I still have the starter motor if you let me know what you would like checking.
Edit:
Starter code is: 02A 911 023 LX 01
I have/had a Audi A3 1.8T (going into detail in case relevant) and pretty sure I still have the starter motor if you let me know what you would like checking.
Edit:
Starter code is: 02A 911 023 LX 01
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So, got a starter with the 813 drive pinion, swapped it over (tremendous pain, that little hog ring in the end is hard to get out of there)
Same noise, same marks on the teeth
figured out they're from the edge of the fw, not the edge of the ring gear though. Teeth are sticking in far enough axially, just the center distance between the two gears is too far apart. I've got to think a while on how I'll fix this. The later models have a larger OD starter ring gear.
Got it to engage, turned down the register offset and filed the lower hole offset about 7/16" to get half that more engagement. Makes one hell of a clack and dims the lights.
Turned the OD of the flywheel too close to the ID of the bellhousing, hoping everything'd line up concentric. Guess it needs more clearance than 35 thousandths per side. Well. Butts. I think the whole engine and trans is coming out as a unit this time. ETA: going to try adding washers between the trans and engine, in case it's an issue of axial clearance.
Same noise, same marks on the teeth
figured out they're from the edge of the fw, not the edge of the ring gear though. Teeth are sticking in far enough axially, just the center distance between the two gears is too far apart. I've got to think a while on how I'll fix this. The later models have a larger OD starter ring gear.
Got it to engage, turned down the register offset and filed the lower hole offset about 7/16" to get half that more engagement. Makes one hell of a clack and dims the lights.
Turned the OD of the flywheel too close to the ID of the bellhousing, hoping everything'd line up concentric. Guess it needs more clearance than 35 thousandths per side. Well. Butts. I think the whole engine and trans is coming out as a unit this time. ETA: going to try adding washers between the trans and engine, in case it's an issue of axial clearance.
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So, it was axial clearance I didn't have. Made up some 1/8" washers and stuffed them in there. At some point in the future I'm gonna make something more permanent and remove the pesky tin plate while I'm in there.
Drives, doesn't have a speedo, so I have no idea where the ratios are at, but first feels deeper as the numbers were saying. Dunno about sixth being higher. With unsprung discs and no DMF it's pretty rigid. The surging at low load really rocks the car, gotta polish up my pump voltage map and get rid of that.
Twin disc ceramic thing, engagement is smooth-ish, clutch pedal is actually about the same as stock for pressure, no noticable clack-clack noise at idle with the pedal down but didn't run it long enough to get up to temp and in the lower idle. Had to make an extended travel stop for the pedal so I don't mash the diaphragm spring. Rollover noise is not there yet either, even with water-thin honda MTF. Will drive it to work tomorrow if there isn't snow on the ground and report some more stuff.
Drives, doesn't have a speedo, so I have no idea where the ratios are at, but first feels deeper as the numbers were saying. Dunno about sixth being higher. With unsprung discs and no DMF it's pretty rigid. The surging at low load really rocks the car, gotta polish up my pump voltage map and get rid of that.
Twin disc ceramic thing, engagement is smooth-ish, clutch pedal is actually about the same as stock for pressure, no noticable clack-clack noise at idle with the pedal down but didn't run it long enough to get up to temp and in the lower idle. Had to make an extended travel stop for the pedal so I don't mash the diaphragm spring. Rollover noise is not there yet either, even with water-thin honda MTF. Will drive it to work tomorrow if there isn't snow on the ground and report some more stuff.
turbovan+tdi
Top Post Dawg
- Joined
- Mar 23, 2014
- Location
- Abbotsford, BC.
- TDI
- 2003 TDI 2.0L ALH, auto, silver wagon, lowered, Colt stage 2 cam, ported head,205 injectors, 1756 turbo, Malone 2.0, 3" exhaust, 18" BBS RC GLI rims. 2004 blue GSW TDI, 5 speed, lowered, GLI BBS wheels painted black, Malone stage 2, Aerotur
Serious kudo's,
put 20 miles on it revs are def. lower in sixth despite not having a speedo to compare to
haven't beat on it yet, added another spring on the LP wastegate, dunno what it makes yet gotta pull more timing before I'm too mean to it. Pressure in the cooling system not even being too hard on it.
uhh, got a leaky CV boot and that's about it, squeezed the clamp a little more. Twin disc is very very nice, slips like the stock one. Heavier flywheel makes for a few extra shakes on shutdown, so it's certainly doing something for the rotational inertia.
haven't beat on it yet, added another spring on the LP wastegate, dunno what it makes yet gotta pull more timing before I'm too mean to it. Pressure in the cooling system not even being too hard on it.
uhh, got a leaky CV boot and that's about it, squeezed the clamp a little more. Twin disc is very very nice, slips like the stock one. Heavier flywheel makes for a few extra shakes on shutdown, so it's certainly doing something for the rotational inertia.
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Pulled a couple degrees timing and multiplied the axes of the fuel maps by 3 to get a little more resolution as suggested by someone or another. 153mg/str is the new max rather than 51, dunno if that did anything yet because I messed up the pump volt map, made a big hole in the middle of it right where cruise is at. Soon we'll know if it's any smoother.
Beat on it some and I need to pull more timing. At 14 degrees max now, still pressurizing the coolant. Gonna pull some more once I figure out what my EGTs are, wasn't watching that gauge.
Gotta cut the piston bowls next... Maybe do some copper o-rings while it is apart. Anyone got tips on getting the head to seal better? Got the ARP studs in there, cranked down to 140 ft/lb, pretty sure the aluminum is just lifting between the bolts at this point. Maybe make a girdle for the head studs with setscrews to push down on the head halfway in between the bolts. Maybe full on fire ring the head with the stainless wire, it'll be off...
Beat on it some and I need to pull more timing. At 14 degrees max now, still pressurizing the coolant. Gonna pull some more once I figure out what my EGTs are, wasn't watching that gauge.
Gotta cut the piston bowls next... Maybe do some copper o-rings while it is apart. Anyone got tips on getting the head to seal better? Got the ARP studs in there, cranked down to 140 ft/lb, pretty sure the aluminum is just lifting between the bolts at this point. Maybe make a girdle for the head studs with setscrews to push down on the head halfway in between the bolts. Maybe full on fire ring the head with the stainless wire, it'll be off...
Pulled another degree, sitting at 13 degrees flat out now. Also pulled some fuel below 2k RPM, as it was not being friendly to public appearances.
Saw a pic of a cut head (attributed to whitbread) and it certainly looks like some proper application of block filler would do quite a bit of good.
Anyone do anything with filling heads? Andy2, you have to have tried this before going to the lengths of casting an iron one.
I'd think it'd do a lot of good if I were to set it deck surface down, then fill it to about level with the bottom of the valve guides, then drill a few holes through the water passages up through it to connect the water jackets.
ETA: 20 hours later
Beat on it some more, hit some sort of limp mode while racing a mk5 golf (I can say for once that I won, but he had a few people in the car) Needed a key cycle to put out good amounts of fuel again. Going to check for codes later on.
EGTs rocket up like crazy with the retarded timing. Pinned my 1600 degree F gauge within a few seconds with a hefty water heater thermocouple. Only 870C though, so I've got some room above what the gauge will read. Guess I should swap over the helicopter pyro that's in the truck, that one reads 1000C
Saw a pic of a cut head (attributed to whitbread) and it certainly looks like some proper application of block filler would do quite a bit of good.
Anyone do anything with filling heads? Andy2, you have to have tried this before going to the lengths of casting an iron one.
I'd think it'd do a lot of good if I were to set it deck surface down, then fill it to about level with the bottom of the valve guides, then drill a few holes through the water passages up through it to connect the water jackets.
ETA: 20 hours later
Beat on it some more, hit some sort of limp mode while racing a mk5 golf (I can say for once that I won, but he had a few people in the car) Needed a key cycle to put out good amounts of fuel again. Going to check for codes later on.
EGTs rocket up like crazy with the retarded timing. Pinned my 1600 degree F gauge within a few seconds with a hefty water heater thermocouple. Only 870C though, so I've got some room above what the gauge will read. Guess I should swap over the helicopter pyro that's in the truck, that one reads 1000C
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Digital Corpus
Top Post Dawg
I've hit 1050 °C with my setup. If you have a fat TC tip hitting that quickly, you're way past 1100 °C. I have one with a 1/16" tip and that makes it's time constant about 1 second. You need 5x that for the complete change.
If EGTs are too high, start considering water injection, imho
If EGTs are too high, start considering water injection, imho
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turbobrick240
Top Post Dawg
- Joined
- Nov 18, 2014
- Location
- maine
- TDI
- 2011 vw golf tdi(gone to greener pastures), 2001 ford f250 powerstroke
A nice fat fmic wouldn't hurt either.