slow, dumb, cheap compound setup!

[[486]]

Along with fixing most of the junk in that last post, I also stuffed a resonator in the fender to get some amount of quiet, doubted it would do much, but it is night and day.

and wrapped

Okay, so latest changes, brake booster died, it sucked in oil at some point and the diaphragm tore, so I cut up the booster's shell and made
a smaller adapter and pushrod to just stick the master on the firewall.

ROM error code set by the computer after doing that seems to have been fixed by going back a generation on the tune files to before I tried
removing the N75 and ASV solenoid codes, must have not checksummed or something. Funny that it waited a few months to sprout up.

Put the dogbone mount back together, put an m12x1.75 stud in the longer of the two, left the shorter bolt alone for now. Made a new 3/16"
steel double-shear plate for the stud. Had broken the previous 1/4" aluminum one. Stripped out one of the dogbone M8 bolts finally. Was
real tired so just jammed a long fully threaded m8 bolt in there and cut the head off to make a stud, jammed into the undamaged portion of
the threads. Seems to be holding up for now.

Finally got the fuel flashed back in down low, and brought the top end timing back up a little, from 13deg before up to 15deg now. Was
retarded to try and help with the old leaking headgasket. As a side effect, the 16cm HX40 is very lazy now. Only makes 16ish PSI bouncing
off the limiter in 3rd where before it was making 20-25. Pyro used to fly to the right toward 1800F at great speed, now it lazily meanders its
way over toward 1200F. Could pull the timing back out, but that seems a halfass way to do it. Thinking on a quick spool valve. Might make
a plate to block off the non-wastegated volute to make it an 8cm. Might go with something like an HX35, or one of its newer descendants.
Undecided. I'll have to visit my friends at the automotive core supply store to see what looks good in their scrap barrels.

Put water in both air/water ICs, but plumbed it very badly, so I'll have to redo that. Teed the reservoir into the pump outlet rather than the
inlet, and the interstage IC is higher than the reservoir, so it needs to fill with water every time the pump starts.

 

[DMan1198]

I’ve never seen a quickspool valve not leak. You’d be better off downsizing the housing, or switching chargers. Nabbing an he351cw would be a good one since its th is undivided, and the gate comes set at 20psi unless you put 12v to the solenoid, then it opens at 40, so you wouldn’t be messing with springs as much as you have been. I’ve also thought an s257sxe, k27, or gt3076 would be good choices, though spendier.

 

[[486]]

Fixed the IC water plumbing.

ended up with an he351cw that had been on fire for cheap
a trip through the ultrasonic to get the EGR schmoop off the compressor wheel, a new thrust bearing, cut the valve lump off the comp housing, welded the ports shut and machined the 2.75" hose outlet to fit 2.5" that everything else is underhood apart from the 2" HP hose.

Just waiting on one of those cheapo cast tight radius elbows so I can avoid having any sort of silicone elbows in the piping. Straight couplers are easier to replace on the side of the road in a nowhere parts store.

Probably just slap a spring on the wastegate if I don't just wire it shut all together. Caring about "proper" less and less lately.
Need to clock the housings so the factory actuator mount is as always out of the picture.

Really getting toward wanting to get some proper flow balanced injectors and getting someone with a pump bench to make me a good calibrated pump voltage map.

 

[DMan1198]

Wouldn’t putting some kind of checkvalve in the lp ic line before the reservoir stop it from draining the cooler, or is that something you just aren’t bothered to care about?

 

[[486]]

Wouldn’t putting some kind of checkvalve in the lp ic line before the reservoir stop it from draining the cooler, or is that something you just aren’t bothered to care about?

it fills just fine when I start it now. Takes maybe a minute or two of pump time to bleed all the air through the 'steam' line, and that coincides quite nicely with the engine warmup time on the hottest days so everything's still cold when it isn't full.

 

[andy2]

I’ve never seen a quickspool valve not leak.

My "supra store" quick spool valve does leak on either side of the T3 flange and also leaks out of the shaft pretty good too.I have an exhaust brake so I can hear the leaks squealing away and have lost a good chunk of exhaust braking pressure.

Fixed the IC water plumbing.

ended up with an he351cw that had been on fire for cheap
a trip through the ultrasonic to get the EGR schmoop off the compressor

I might ditch my quick spool valve/hx35/12cm with 58mm compressor inducer for an hy35 (54mm inducer).That way there is no more leaks and it will spool somewhat ok.

He351cw is quite a bit bigger than the hy35.

 

[DMan1198]

There’s a thread on cumminsforum where someone modded an hx35 turbine housing with a flapper, so it had a built in spool valve. When held open it didn’t spoil as fast as it’s unmodified counterpart, but there was an improvement in low end when utilized.

FWIW a friend of mine went front an he351cw to an s362/68/.7sx-e, and through some afc mods could actually spool the bigger turbo faster (as in the he351 spooled at 1700, and the s300 spooled at 1400)

 

[[486]]

There’s a thread on cumminsforum where someone modded an hx35 turbine housing with a flapper, so it had a built in spool valve. When held open it didn’t spoil as fast as it’s unmodified counterpart, but there was an improvement in low end when utilized.

well, it is just like VNT but with only two options, that's all fairly obvious

you can go about it many different ways, I'd probably just make a butterfly plate about 5/8" thick, but you could also use an external wastegate for the second volute.
Everything under drive pressure leaks. Make it tight enough fit that it doesn't and guess what? The butterfly shaft heats up MUCH faster than the plate, meaning it'll open once, get hot and sieze until it cools back down.
Same with the interstage wastegate on any compound setup, you do need to provide for gas venting past the valve guide. It will leak exhaust up the stem. What I did on mine was to bore a groove inside the guide's ID right in the middle, then drilled vent holes through the housing down into that groove, larger than twice the valve guide clearance. Meaning, gasses leaking from the valve chamber vent to atmosphere through the holes. Gasses leaking down the valve guide from the lower diaphragm chamber also vent to atmosphere.
Generally you'd be running intake manifold pressure in the lower chamber and interstage exhaust pressure in the valve chamber.

Fun little aside I may have covered earlier ITT, but I have no idea.

FWIW a friend of mine went front an he351cw to an s362/68/.7sx-e, and through some afc mods could actually spool the bigger turbo faster (as in the he351 spooled at 1700, and the s300 spooled at 1400)

more fuel will always spool earlier through higher EGTs
Tell him to pull a couple degrees of timing, he'll probably be able to lug it into boost off idle and really lift that head something good.

 

[DMan1198]

To be fair he knows more about timing a mechanical ve than anyone I’m aware of, and I’m pretty sure it was with the same 5x.017ish (honed 5x.014”) injectors with both turbos. He’s running a high compression ve 24v now with a more special ve, even bigger injectors, a 64/73/.91, and putting over 600hp to the ground.

More fuel doesn’t always correlate to faster spool though if the extra creates more smoke. I’ve noticed several hundred rpm difference in spoolup on exactly the same tune between smoke free, and smoky, and I’ve I’ve seen big power trucks lose 2-300whp between a lightly smoky run, and a really smoky run on the dyno.

 

[[486]]

More fuel doesn’t always correlate to faster spool though if the extra creates more smoke. I’ve noticed several hundred rpm difference in spoolup on exactly the same tune between smoke free, and smoky, and I’ve I’ve seen big power trucks lose 2-300whp between a lightly smoky run, and a really smoky run on the dyno.

in back to back pulls with no MAF to base fueling on, the second will always be smokier because everything's heatsoaked.
air's hotter, doesn't breathe as well, no correction for that and hey presto it's smoking more while making less power

Notice it on my golf real well, if I hop in and go after letting it sit just long enough to heatsoak the ICs it sure doesn't have the power it should. Computer sees the lower airflow, so puts in less fuel. Power comes back once I've driven long enough to get the heat back out the little radiator on the IC loop.

 

[[486]]

May as well update the thread even if I don't have pics.
Been running the car on waste oil and gasoline. Because reasons.

Oil return from the HP came loose and leaked for a while. Ignored it until I'd used up the gallon of oil I drained at the last change on topups. Finally tightened that and changed around the oil filter housing to make room for a proper intake/MAF/filter setup. Take an ALH filter housing and chop off the cartridge filter portion, weld up the gaping hole to keep the oil in, bend the AC lines and use a normal 1.8/2.0 filter on it. Makes room for a relatively straight shot from the LP turbo over to where the sidemount IC once was. Figure I'll stick a MAF in the straightest part of the 4.5" pipe and work up a linearization by putting it inline with the stock MAF and ancillaries. That'll surely get me closer than my current linearization is.

Also finally got the HE351wg on there. Just got the wastegate safety wired shut for now, I'll need to figure out a mount for an actuator soon. It wakes up only slightly earlier with the 9cm (iirc) housing on it compared to the 16cm HX40. Kind of a mild disappointment but I haven't really beat on it yet (and it never was tuned properly with the HX40 anyways)

Anyways, turned over 175k miles. I'd bought it with 135k. Most I've driven any of my too many cars.

 

[[486]]

184k miles now
still on poop fuel

figured out yesterday that the interstage WG is inop for whatever reason now (either the line fell off, or the chinese diaphragm finally gave up)
it sure pulls hard when it's got the 60 psi boost gauge wrapped around and pinned well past 70 psi though rofl

ETA: and reading through the last update itt, I did end up making a 4.5" maf housing and using a ford slot maf
kind of an oddball thing to run into but now I've got a hole right at 2k rpm when cold where it goes way lean, been 6 months and I still haven't actually looked at the scanner to see which fuel limiter is doing it

 

[dremd]

When you say poop fuel, are you still talking waste oil thinned with gasoline?

 

[[486]]

When you say poop fuel, are you still talking waste oil thinned with gasoline?

indeed

looked at the WG and it just came unattached from the intake
might need something better than vacuum line now

 

[mrchill]

Needs a tune update for the MAF size change.

 

[BustedBolts]

in back to back pulls with no MAF to base fueling on, the second will always be smokier because everything's heatsoaked.
air's hotter, doesn't breathe as well, no correction for that and hey presto it's smoking more while making less power
Notice it on my golf real well, if I hop in and go after letting it sit just long enough to heatsoak the ICs it sure doesn't have the power it should. Computer sees the lower airflow, so puts in less fuel. Power comes back once I've driven long enough to get the heat back out the little radiator on the IC loop.

There is a map temp correction map you can use with the map based smoke limiter to fix that issue.

 

[[486]]

Needs a tune update for the MAF size change.

yeah and the fact that the ford maf doesn't bother with reverse flow, so it's actually using 0-5v where the hfm5 uses 1-5v for forward flow
I put together a new linearization for the new maf when it went in

There is a map temp correction map you can use with the map based smoke limiter to fix that issue.

I tried messing with that but it didn't change anything, probably just a hole in the timing maps. Last month I finally dropped a degree of timing at cruise and my EGTs at 75 went from 1100 to 800ish... haha I'd been using the crappy timing maps for about a year
ETA: whoops thought you meant to fix my "no power at only 2k rpm and dead cold" issue, not what you actually quoted. That's precisely the sort of map that I'd never get around to actually setting up correctly.

 

[skaude]

yeah and the fact that the ford maf doesn't bother with reverse flow, so it's actually using 0-5v where the hfm5 uses 1-5v for forward flow
I put together a new linearization for the new maf when it went in

I tried messing with that but it didn't change anything, probably just a hole in the timing maps. Last month I finally dropped a degree of timing at cruise and my EGTs at 75 went from 1100 to 800ish... haha I'd been using the crappy timing maps for about a year
ETA: whoops thought you meant to fix my "no power at only 2k rpm and dead cold" issue, not what you actually quoted. That's precisely the sort of map that I'd never get around to actually setting up correctly.

Theres a switch that determites which temp input is used for boost correction.

 

[[486]]

so, the clutch started making some very strange noises when disengaged in gear
makes me think that it's got some sort of fluid on the discs making them groan rather than the usual high pitched squeal that a ceramic clutch makes while disengaged
backside of the flywheel is oily, so I'm thinking the crank bolts came loose

well, the exhaust manifold has been horribly cracked for years now, the intake got a little cracked and ballooned when the interstage WG's HP line came off and I pegged the 60 psi gauge real hard, the left inner cv joint will not keep a boot on it, and I've been meaning to get rid of the interstage AWIC while plumbing the AC suction line through the HP intercooler instead of running water in it

anyways, go to tear it down and everything is in horrible shape, continuous fuel leaks plus road grime, plus a huge exhaust leak, plus neglect makes for one filthy engine bay
don't have the engine on the ground yet but I can see that the transmission is seeping oil from the case split, so even the 0a6 might be close to spitting its guts out... I'd been noticing a lot of metal in the trans oil.

starting to lean more and more toward putting together a reasonable little motor and dumping that in instead
Maybe do a high compression build. Got a little baby gt1446 laying around, might use that.

 

[Houpty GT]

Well....at least it was not burned to the ground by the mostly peaceful protesters.

 

[biohaufen]

No political statements outside of the off topic section, please.
Nobody in here (TDI power enhancements) cares, and it doesn’t bring the topic forward...

I know it’s hard to follow rules and read them, but ... come on.

 

[[486]]

the fires were about 10 mi south of me, so no real concerns

Finally got the motor out and apart from the trans. Reconfigured the HP air/water to have jic -8 inlet and outlets on the water core, so I can run the air conditioning suction line through it. Might run a second TXV on there like a rear AC system in a van would use.

the exhaust leaks were nowhere near as horrible as I'd thought they'd be. The interstage WG's outlet flange was not aligned, and there were a few cracks in the exhaust manifold that I'll be able to blob over with the MIG to reinforce to the point of never being able to break. It is pretty interesting how there's a 1/4" thick layer of soot on everything around the back of the engine, but the manifold and HP turbine housing obviously get hot enough to burn all that poop right off, they're downright clean.

Figured out what the HORRID noise from the clutch was, I've stripped out the splines on one of the hubs of the twin disc. The floaters and pressure plate are all splined to the flywheel, so the friction disc that actually touches the flywheel is the only one that does any power transmission in normal use, then when that one face of the disc slips, then the rest of the faces can transmit torque after the clearances in the splines are eaten up.
This means that one of the 1/2" wide hubs is doing most of the drive, eventually it just stripped out. I'd considered this as a potential problem years back when first doing this stuff, just seems to have taken some 40k? miles to get there.
Going to need to machine a full width hub to engage the full 1.5" or so long trans input spline, especially now that the splines on the very end are somewhat worn. Probably spline the second disc to this hub, so that the main drive is spread across the whole input spline rather than just the very end.

ETA: much as I hate politics, bio, jumping at the bit to shame people hiding behind 'the rules' is way worse in my book
besides, I doubt anyone much reads this thread any more after I stopped bothering to take pictures of the progress

 

[[486]]

So finally fixed this turd a few months ago (I had stripped the splines outta the clutch hubs, so had to make some of a better design outta 4140 and got them heat treated) 200 miles later and the front of the car has to come off again as it isn't going in first any more. Feels almost like a stuck detent, but it'll go in all other gears including 2nd which is the same gate and everything.
I'd heard that the 1st and 2nd synchros on these mq500 transmissions were extremely weak, but I didn't know they would destroy themselves on a hard 2-3-4 pull. I'd been avoiding giving any abuse to the first and second by getting it up into second real gentle, then giving it the beans. Turns out its some sort of harmonic vibration at real high input shaft speeds or something.

Finally getting off my butt and gonna pull the trans out and rip the first gear blocker ring out. Might also make second unsynchronized too because I really don't want to take this thing apart again.

 

[Nevada_TDI]

486!486! I always look at your threads and think,"that's cooler than Dangit!"

 

[Rub87]

I had the same with a longitudal 01X gearbox, as found in B7 audi A4 etc. I replqced dmf by a heavy smf. After few 100 miles the sliding ring for 1/2 would crack. Ive went through about 3-4 gearbox in under 1000 miles. Put dmf back and never had issue since then. The breakage wasbt even from using 1st or 2nd. Like I would go on highway everything fine. Drive 80 miles and at exit the damage was there while only having used 5th and 6th. Must have been nasty resonance

 

[[486]]

The breakage wasbt even from using 1st or 2nd. Like I would go on highway everything fine. Drive 80 miles and at exit the damage was there while only having used 5th and 6th. Must have been nasty resonance

you're the first I've run into with similar experiences, thanks for the reply
everyone defaults to "you tried jamming it in first at 70" but I'm 100% sure that I didn't mis-shift on the hard pull that it broke on.
I really hate the recurring answer of "you're gonna need a DMF" because that's a thousand dollars I can't justify spending. I might look into cloning one of the weld-on dog engagement kits that SQS used to sell for the O2J if I do run into a cracked sliding ring coupler thing.

Got the axles separated from the hubs, got the LP turbo out, got the front of the car off.
Hope to get the engine out and the trans off of it today to be able to disassemble it tomorrow in my dad's heated shop. 10F in the garage, hopefully over the summer I can put up a shop of my own.

 

[Rub87]

Not hard to make dog engelagement but the hardning must be correct. Bit too hard and tooth crack off and bit too soft and they dull after few shifts. I think they are normally ‘cemented’ about 1mm deep. Need have end mill with correct angle and radius at the bottom edge

 

[[486]]

I've got a metal shaper, so odd angles are dirt simple, though mucking about getting the gearbox out of the car for the 10th time I'm kind of sick of working on the thing. Might be time to buy a CR engine and DSG to dump into it. Also would solve the problem that above 4000 rpm I can't get enough fuel into it.

Might also take a look at the sliding collar that's already there, draw its temper down a bit so it'll be a little less prone to cracking.
The shifting will be a little less positive with the lead in angles of the teeth facing the wrong way for a few mm as they do with synchronizers, but I've got about 50lb of flywheel, so rev-matching should be pretty easy.

 

[Rub87]

to make cr work past 4000 you are also looking a set of aftermarket injectors =)

 

[[486]]

to make cr work past 4000 you are also looking a set of aftermarket injectors =)

and probably a cp3
ve pump is just not very happy moving lots of fuel at high RPM

Anyways got the transmission apart, thing is really crammed together, only way to get all the shafts out is either 5 hands or turn it upside down and shake it.
all synchronizer components looked good, the only thing that looked wrong was wear on the engagement teeth on the 2nd gear side of the sliding ring
It wasn't grinding when I was driving it, if anything 3rd was the one that was grinding more often, but obviously the metal was getting smashed over. The burr on the 2nd side of the ring was hanging on the center hub and not allowing it into 1st
I could file the burr off, but these parts are case hardened, so if metal is smushing around that means it's through the hard layer. Going to price out a new sliding ring piece. Teeth on the 2nd gear itself are a little rounded but not nearly so bad.

interesting to note, all synchronizers in the trans are brass except for the 1/2 which are steel with fiber friction lining in a "double cone" arrangement. All the steel parts are stamped from sheetmetal. One of the shift forks is totally made of plastic, I forget which.

ETA: 02M311239G $300 ouch
I think I'll file the burrs off and flip it over so that the worn side is facing 1st gear, which doesn't get engaged unless it's not moving (and both sides of those teeth look absolutely perfect on the 1st gear side)