SIR B-90 wheel bearing replacement without slide hammer (warning-lot of pictures)

coalminer16

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Dec 11, 2008
Location
Central Wisconsin
TDI
Golf 2004
Replacing a Front Wheel Bearing with a sir B-90 kit


TOOLS:
Ø[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]Impact wrench
Ø[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]Torque wrench up to 150lbs
Ø[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]Bentley Manual
Ø[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]3/8 Torque wrench
Ø[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]30mm ½ drive socket ~axel nut
Ø[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]7mm 3/8 drive allen head
Ø[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]Wire
Ø[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]90 degree pick- ball joint location, release ABS sensor, pull off lug bolt covers
Ø[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]Large Phil-ups screwdriver for break order screw
Ø[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]Scratch-all and 2 flat head screw driver to release snap ring
Ø[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]90 degree bent needle nose to replace snap ring
Ø[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]16mm box end wrench “4 B-90 sir tool kit”
Ø[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]24mm ½ drive
Ø[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]B-90 Sir tool kit master or VW kit
Ø[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]Replacement inner hub optional
Ø[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]3 grade 8 (10.9) ball joint bolt replacement
Ø[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]13mm 3/8 drive for ball joint bolts
Ø[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]2 Jacks and jack stands and 2 chalk blocks
Ø[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]Grease
Ø[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]Gloves
Ø[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]8 mm ¼ socket break disc guard
PROCESS:
1.[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]Gather tools.
2.[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]Put gloves on.
3.[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]Cholk front and back of back wheel.
4.[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]Pull wheel bolt caps off with 90 degree pick or equivalent.
5.[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]Pull off center cap with flat screw driver.
6.[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]Loosen axel nut with ½ drive extension, 1 ½ long with 30 mm socket on impact wrench.
7.[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]Jack up car so wheel is just off the ground.
8.[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]Put jack stand under car for safety.
9.[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]Take wheel off with impact wrench 1 ½ extension and 17mm socket.
10.[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]Take off sway bar bolt using 3/8 drive 16mm socket and ratchet.
11.[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]Use jack to assist to keep bolt from springing out.
12.[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]Take off caliper bolts using 90 degree pick.
13.[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]Take out (2) bolts using 7mm Allen head 3/8 drive.
14.[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]Hang caliper on shock using wire.
15.[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]Undo ABS sensor using 90 degree pick.
16.[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]Use large Phil-ups screw driver to take screw out of rotor.
17.[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]Take off disc brake guard - 3 bolts 8mm ¼ inch drive ratchet 2 in extension.
18.[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]Use scratch to mark position of ball joint on control arm.
19.[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]Take out 3 ball joint bolts with 13mm 3/8 drive ratchet (throw away all 3 bolts).
20.[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]Finish taking axel nut off.
21.[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]Slid axel out while pulling hub away from axel. May need to use a 3 jaw pull to push axel out or a punch and hammer (Be careful not to pull axel out to far).
22.[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]Pull inner hub out using B-90 horse shoe puller with additional horse shoe and bolt (see picture).
23.[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]Use tightening nut from kit to pull inner hub out with horse shoe configuration (see picture) prevents hitting ABS sensor.
24.[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]Use 1 1/16 box end wrench to hold tighten nut, 24mm on impact to pull the inner hub out (other methods may use a slid hammer).
25.[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]Take snap ring off with scratch-all.
26.[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]Use B-90 pieces 4, 5, 7, and 10 long thread bolt and tighten bolt. 7 goes on the back side of the bearing (refer to picture - bearing in picture for reference only).
27.[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]Use impact wrench with 24mm socket and 1 1/16 box end wrench to take out bearing.
28.[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]Use 90 degree pick to clean up snap ring grove and clean out bearing housing.
29.[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]Grease outer hub bearing cage.
30.[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]Use B-90 pieces 5, 8, 8A, long thread bolt and tighten bolt, 8A piece goes on back side of bearing (Freezing bearing may help with this step).
31.[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]Use 24mm with ratchet and 1 1/16 on back side, ratchet it until you feel it stop in the back, DO NOT USE IMPACT WRENCH DURING THIS PROCESS.
32.[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]DO NOT FORGET TO INSTALL SNAP RING.
33.[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]Install snap ring using 90 degree needle nose.
34.[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]Clean off ABS sensor before installing inner hub.
35.[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]5,7,8. 7 goes on back side, 8 and 5 go on front side to install inner hub.
36.[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]Use 1 1/16 box end on backside 24mm drive with ratchet to tighten inner hub in.
37.[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]I purchased new hubs because I didn’t live near a dealer and I didn’t think I could get the races off. I had my brother cut off with a torch (I don’t own a torch yet either).
38.[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]Install axel into hub.
39.[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]Install ball joint into control arm lining up with scratch marks made earlier.
40.[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]Install new bolts for ball joint (3) 13mm 3/8 drive ratchet, torque bolts to factor if using original bolts, Grade 8 use torque wrench to 22 ft lbs.
41.[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]Install axel nut hand tight.
42.[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]Install sway bar bolt. May use jack again for safety and to line it up. Torque to 33 ft lbs
43.[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]Install disc brake guard 3 bolts 8mm ¼ inch ratchet with extension.
44.[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]Install rotor screw with big Phil-ups screw driver.
45.[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]Cut and remove wire from caliper.
46.[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]Install caliper to hub, make sure lower part is installed correctly, refer to picture.
47.[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]Tighten guide pins to 21 ft lbs.
48.[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]Install caps in guide pin holes.
49.[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]Reinstall ABS sensor plug.
50.[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]Install Tire.
51.[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]Torque wheel bolts to proper setting.
52.[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]Tighten axle nut to 148 ft lbs than loosen half turn spin wheel half a turn tighten to 37 ft lbs tighten adding 60 degree which is 2 point mark on a 12 point or bolt hole to holt hole starting on lug nut and stopping just before another 360 divided 5 equals 72. When tightening take the weight off the jack supporting the car and it might help to have someone in the car on the brake.
53.[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]Install center cap.
54.[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]Install lug bolt caps.
55.[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]Remove wheel chalks.
56.[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]Clean up.
 

coalminer16

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Dec 11, 2008
Location
Central Wisconsin
TDI
Golf 2004
Doing the job with this kit you don't need to buy a slide hammer. You don't need to take in for an alignment. You don't need to bleed your brakes. All told it takes around 1-2 hours after you get the hang of it (the first one always takes a bit to do). It helps to have parts for both sides and it helps to have a spare baring incase you mess the job up. So far I have put around 4K miles on without any issues and finally no sound. The bad race was on the inboard side of the passenger side bearing. I thought it was the drivers side bearing and it wasn't so I did the other side the next day and finally the sound was gone. Don't know if anyone can use this but I figured I could attempt to help someone out. I even learned to post pictures (this is the first time).
 

PDJetta

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Nov 6, 2003
Location
Northern Virginia
TDI
'04 Jetta GLS TDI Pumpe Duce Platinum Grey w/ Leather
Thanks Coalminer 16! Those are great pictures and write-up. How much does this bearing puller set cost? It is nice and beefy and professional looking. I bet the shop charge for having the two front bearings done (about $500+ where I live) would cover the puller set.

I just don't know about using the Harbor Freight cheapie set some have used.

I could see the bad bearing races in the picture of the old bearing.

--Nate
 

coalminer16

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Dec 11, 2008
Location
Central Wisconsin
TDI
Golf 2004
I bought the master kit which can do pretty much all the cars from what the web sites said. I couldn't find a kit for the VW although it is made. I didn't have much time to get this done as I had a 1500 mile trip in a couple weeks after finding the noise wasn't the tires. I bought the kit for around $390 then there was about $20 shipping. You have to search around as some places sell the kit for $600. The VW specific would be cheaper I imagine but if I ever get a different car or am helping someone else out it will pay for itself. With getting the hub off I am sure a person can make a little bracket that bolts on instead of using another horse shoe. I didn't have the time and I made it work anyways. I think the hardest part of it all is the axle nut (getting it tight enough). Also I had a heck of a time getting the ball joint bolts as VW in Billings MT didn't carry them (and they said they rarely replace-so much for them following the book). I figured grade 8 would be safer then instead. That was a challenge to even find grade 8 in my town. I ended up cutting down longer sized bolts to get some to work. I guess that is why my signature says shade tree as I don't have a choice.
 

Matt-98AHU

Loose Nut Behind the Wheel Vendor
Joined
Apr 23, 2006
Location
Gresham, OR
TDI
2001 Golf TDI, 2005 Passat wagon, 2004 Touareg V10.
Co-worker of mine has an OTC Hub Tamer Elite tool kit that gets a lot of use. I will say this; that kit has more than paid for itself. But at the same time, that forcing screw doesn't last forever. He has to replace it once every couple of months with the use it gets.

And since you unbolted the ball joint from the control arm, you need an alignment :)
 

coalminer16

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Dec 11, 2008
Location
Central Wisconsin
TDI
Golf 2004
I am sure I might need a small adjustment. But I followed how others did there bearings with all the different kits and methods. Some taking the whole hub off, some not and a whole wide range of kits. I had to do some searching and I forget the site but I got my kit for about $400. I might even say how much I paid in the earlier description. Either way I have put about 6k miles on the car without any adverse wear on my tires so I am not concerned. I will get an alignment when I get struts later this year. If nothing else I did this so everyone could see where everything is for the new people. I went into the first bearing kind of blind and hopeful I didn't need anything else as I needed the car for a 1500 mile trip within a week. After the first bearing (and finding it was the wrong side) I figured I would do a write up. The write up and pictures took longer then the bearing after I knew what I was doing. Bottom line, I don't advise not getting an alignment but you can go for a while if done correctly without one. Around here I wouldn't have gotten and appointment soon enough for the trip anyways.
 

Matt-98AHU

Loose Nut Behind the Wheel Vendor
Joined
Apr 23, 2006
Location
Gresham, OR
TDI
2001 Golf TDI, 2005 Passat wagon, 2004 Touareg V10.
Write up is appreciated. Those are definitely nice tools for the job. Don't have to completely remove the knuckle or anything.

Excellent photos as well!
 

Gordon Peterson

Veteran Member
Joined
May 15, 2006
Location
Rockford MI
TDI
1959 Ford F100 TDI ALH conversion
I found a post a while back that had all the dimensions to make the puller set just like you used. Since I have access to a lathe I made a set and it works great. We have probably done over 10. I will look around and see if I have the prints and post them.

Gordy
 

Drivbiwire

Zehntes Jahr der Veteran
Joined
Oct 13, 1998
Location
Boise, Idaho
TDI
2013 Passat TDI, Newmar Ventana 8.3L ISC 3945, 2016 E250 BT, 2000 Jetta TDI
Why did you replace the hub? Just use a simple bearing splitter and remove the bearing center and reinstall.

I generally bead blast the hub and sensor, repaint and re-install.

Also I would not have installed a bub that did not have paint on it. The rust that will form will cause a failure of the ABS sensor due to the magnetic pick-up attracting the metal flakes.

At the minimum you need to coat the hub with a cold galvanizing paint or some other rust preventative coating...just like the factory does.
 

coalminer16

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Dec 11, 2008
Location
Central Wisconsin
TDI
Golf 2004
I replaced the hub as I wanted to make sure I had everything to get the job done in one day. I didn't have to buy and replace the hub but it was one less problem to worry about. I had my brother take the races off as he has the tools to do that and now we have a set of hubs to use between us. As for the painting of the hubs. I didn't realize that part. My lack of experience. I am not really concerned with rust as much in my current area of living though as compared to MN. I don't have a spot of rust on anything including the brake rotors yet on a 91K mile 6 year old car. My brothers 05 with 85 K the brakes were REALLY rusted and the right front fender that was replaced before they bought it last fall is almost rusted through. They live in MN and the car has been in that area its whole life. Off topic. Sorry. While my post may not have been perfect it does show one of many ways to get the job done for someone with out many tools or shops available to work on things. Any other suggestions to make it better like the painting please post.
 

modifieda4

New member
Joined
Oct 22, 2007
Location
fairfield cnty, CT
TDI
-
excellent post... thank you. I have the B-90 and have a bearing to replace. I've replaced 3 so far with a borrowed hub shark. I hope this goes easier. On the hub shark i had to use an impact pulling the old bearing and installing the new. I know the b90 instructions say not to use an impact. Im assuming its because of the thrust bearing. Any thoughts? have you trashed a thrust bearing?
 
Last edited:

coalminer16

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Dec 11, 2008
Location
Central Wisconsin
TDI
Golf 2004
Only did one pair with my tool and nothing trashed. Just need to becareful installing the bearing so you don't ruin the new one and make sure the clip is in place to hold the bearing it.
 

fruitcakesa

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Feb 18, 2007
Location
Vermont
TDI
04 jetta 5 spd wagon
Thanks Coalminer 16! Those are great pictures and write-up. How much does this bearing puller set cost? It is nice and beefy and professional looking. I bet the shop charge for having the two front bearings done (about $500+ where I live) would cover the puller set.

I just don't know about using the Harbor Freight cheapie set some have used.

I could see the bad bearing races in the picture of the old bearing.

--Nate
My local indy charged me $120 for one side.
 

coalminer16

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Dec 11, 2008
Location
Central Wisconsin
TDI
Golf 2004
I don't trust others. Maybe it is just me but I have seen two many flunkies working on things and you get what you pay for. That and I plan on doing a few of these and you need to know how to do it and have the replacement bolts/nuts and I didn't need an alignment afterwards. Although I now have the life time alignment so I can get one if I don't tell them I worked on my suspension.
 

modifieda4

New member
Joined
Oct 22, 2007
Location
fairfield cnty, CT
TDI
-
ok, im all done. everything was going smoothly until i had to press the hub back in. then i broke a 1/2" drive wrench holding the nut on the b90. thats when i took a step back. what i think was happening was that the hub spindle was bottoming out on the b90 washer on the backside. i used the outer race of the old bearing as a spacer and everything when ok after that. i even used the impact on the b90, but i removed the thrust bearing first.

just came back from a test drive, the silence is great!
 

tdidieselbobny

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Joined
Apr 4, 2005
Location
Stafford,NY (WNY)
TDI
'03 Galactic Blue Jetta TDI, '15 Silk Blue Golf Sportwagen TDI
One question-instead of taking out the 3 ball joint bolts(as I've had the bolts break off in the Y-plate)-couldn't the one bolt that pinches the ball joint be removed instead,provided you take tension off strut spring(rent a set of spring compressors from Advance or Autozone if you don't own them)?
 

coalminer16

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Dec 11, 2008
Location
Central Wisconsin
TDI
Golf 2004
Yes and no. The point of this meathod isn't to mess with the spring nor the strut pinch bolt at the bottom. You could get the shaft of the ball joint loose but good luck getting it out without first taking your strut loose from the hub. Unless you cut the ball joint out which in that case you are right back to where you were before. And you should replace the Y plate and bolts anyways when doing this job as they are a torque to yeild item. When I did this job I couldn't find just that part but now idparts has it and it has been replaced. Hope this helps. I just don't see anyother way shy of adding other added work.
 

vwmaniaman

Active member
Joined
Oct 10, 2008
Location
Bowie
TDI
98
what pieces do you use to draw the hub out of the bearing? Are the horeshoe pieces connected together, and how ?
al
 
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