Shouldn't this work? (wiring problem)

[ecocar111]

Just installed the visor with the instructions in this thread.
First time ever, that i told my wife ill be back in 10 minutes, and i actually made it back in 10 minutes. the easiest install i have ever seen.

Great work !

Ps got the visor on ebay for 75$ shipped, and wiring and connectors from worldimpex, 25$ shipped.

 

[crash400]

stupid question, I guess:

what year passats can I strip? I'm not up on anything other than jetta to know. obviously 2004, but how far back can I go, how late, etc.?

thanks.

 

[MPBsr]

Here is how I wired up the HomeLink visor in my 2004 Golf GLS TDi with a DIY plug and play wiring harness:

Here is the parts list:

1ea 1J0 973 332 Female connector
1ea 1C0 973 119 Housing
2ea 000 979 009 Repair wire, use 3 ends
1ea 000 979 132 Repair wire, use 2 ends
2ea 1" pieces of 1/8" heatshrink tubing

These are available from IMPEX FAP

The wiring connections are:
Connector 1J0 973 332 to Connector 1C0 973 119
pin 1 to pin 1
pin 2 to pin 2 & 3

This will allow the HomeLink control to operate without the ignition switch on.

Works great on my car and I didn't have to cut any wires

T.D.

What if you only want to use it with the ignition switch on?

Will it work as plug and play?

 

[MPBsr]

Does anyone know if part #1J0 973 332 will fit the 2 pin plug in a 2009 Jetta (headliner)?

Even though I ordered the parts from Worldimplex, they couldn't verify if all parts will match up.

 

[MPBsr]

Well the homelink is up and running in my 2009 TDI.

I used Teledawg instructions, but I had to splice some wires together to match up with the ends. Even though he said that he didn't need to, if you look at his pics, it shows heatsink wraping to indicate splicing.

But his pic was very important to show what goes where and without it, not sure I could have done it.

So my hats off to Teledawg for this.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

BTW, if anyone needs a 2009 TDI drivers visor in grey or a 2008 Eos passenger side in grey, just send me a PM.

 

[tomc]

2009 jetta 2 pin to homelink sun visor 3 pin

Can you just twist the one wire from the jetta to the red & green on the new visor and join the 2 black wires? Would that work?

 

[SLVVR6]

Sorry...I know...this is an old thread, but trying to wire my homelink mirror and it is behaving funny. When I open the visor, the light will come on. I have tried two different homelink mirrors and they both do it. Any ideas? Followed the wiring exactly as shown in the thread. Anyone else have this happen?

 

[romad]

Define "open", i.e. when rotating visor down, when moving visor to side window, or when extending visor out on it's rod? If it is the first (or last), perhaps there is a problem with the wiring INSIDE the visor.

I did the same mod a few months ago and the visor light works normally.

 

[SLVVR6]

The first....rotating down. Appears to even stay on when up against the headliner...but will flicker while rotating up.

 

[romad]

Definitely a wiring problem inside the visor itself. Since they don't seem to be repairable, you'll need to replace the visor.

 

[SFHGolfTDI]

error free LEDs, will they work with homelink

Hi all, I am about to do this mod using an adapter. I don't have LEDs, but would like to have the option in the future. LEDs have come a long way since vwsandman's post below, especially the new CANBUS error free types. Does anyone know if these allow power to flow to the homelink, or are they still one way? I can use his suggestion below, but would prefer not to have to splice into any car wiring, so I like the adapter idea best.

As I found out with my Homelink mod, if you are using LED lamps in your make up lights, the above mod will not work due to the curcuit used by VW. As some of you may be aware, if the wire is brown on our cars, it is a ground wire. If it is a brown wire with a colored stripe, it is a "switched" ground. If you observe the stock sunvisor wiring, you will see that the two wires that run to the switch for the makeup mirror lamp are brown and brown/white. Since VW is only giving the makeup light ground via the switch, power is only available to the Homelink by going through the incandescent lamp used for the makeup light. This works fine until the light burns out, or you use an LED, like I did, which prevents the 12VDC from going to the Homelink as wired in the above post. (LEDs are one way devices, where an incandescent lamp goes both ways) Solution? Run the VW repair wire used in pin three of the Homelink visor over to the makeup lamp socket, there you will find the red/blue wire which feeds this circuit in the first place, tap into that and you will not have to worry about lamp failure or the use of LEDs for your interior lighting. The wire used for the power to the Homelink sunvisor is a red/blue.

The LEDs I am using were purchased from 42Draft and really make for a nice cool white look in the interior. (or any other color you might like)

By the way, the Homelink transmitter is a GM part! You can carefully remove the cover on the Homelink and the unit will snap out. The Homelink unit is GM part number 15015905. Doing a search revealed that these are available for around $87. Probably can find these for less somewhere else. So if your Homelink fails or does not work, you might be able to find this in a GM vehicle for allot less money than replacing the whole sunvisor. Hope this helps out anyone looking to do this mod.

I got my Homelink all programed up and it works great! Search around on car parts.com I got mine for $65 shipped. I believe these were only used on Passat GLX's and W8's which should help to limit your search.

 

[romad]

LED stands for Light Emitting DIODE. A diode only has a one-way path for electron travel (well, except for a zener diode which is a special animal) so unless they build a zener diode or something like it into the base of an LED, I don't think they'll work.

 

[SFHGolfTDI]

LED stands for Light Emitting DIODE. A diode only has a one-way path for electron travel (well, except for a zener diode which is a special animal) so unless they build a zener diode or something like it into the base of an LED, I don't think they'll work.

How exactly do "error free" LEDs work? That might be a wholly different issue than the one/two direction thing, but my basic understanding is that it provides some kind of resistor built into the LED that fools the car into thinking it is pulling more voltage than it is, thus not throwing an error. My question is whether this is enough to keep the homelink functioning, or whether the power is still stopped by the existence of an LED on the same circuit as the homelink.

 

[romad]

An LED will have a different resistance than an incandescent bulb. Both run off 12vdc, so only resistance and current are changeable. Since Voltage = Amperes X Ohms (current & resistance respectively) any increase or decrease in one will have the opposite effect on the other when Voltage is fixed. I don't know how the bulb out sensors actually work but they could be set to detect a certain range of current flow through a resistance and if the current goes outside that range, give a warning.

Since Wattage = Voltage X Current so a 5 watt incandescent bulb should have a current draw of about .417 ampere. Dividing 12 by .417 gives us a resistance value of about 28.8 ohms. Say an LED has a resistance of 57.6 ohms, then the current draw would be about .208 ampere so if the sensor was set to detect draws of less than .3 amprere or greater than .5 amprere, a replacement bulb that had a current draw outside that range would trigger the warning.

 

[SFHGolfTDI]

Thanks, romad. I only understand a fraction of what you're saying, but it sounds like the short answer is that the mechanism by which error free LEDs increase resistance does not really have any bearing on whether those LEDs would work with the homelink on the same circuit. They wouldn't because they only allow current to flow in one direction, so power simply wouldn't pass through to the homelink. Is that right?

Or does the fact that an error free LED contains an internal resistor allow power to continue flowing to the homelink because the car does not detect a short?

Excuse my stupidity in all things electrical. I should read up on it sometime.

 

[romad]

I don't know how error-free LEDs work so I'll have to research them myself. I took electronics for 3 years in high school (mid-sixties), fixed radios in the Air Force, and have an Associates degree in Electronic Systems Technology, so Ohm's Law (relationships between voltage, wattage, current, and resistance), diodes, etc. are old hat. Error-free LEDs may get into the areas of series, parallel, and series-parallel circuits that add their own twists.

 

[SFHGolfTDI]

Let me know if you learn anything! This would be interesting information to have for this mod and others that involve LEDs that share circuits.

 

[romad]

OK, for external lights (turn signals, brake lights, etc.) it looks like a load-resistor that can handle up to 50watts can be installed in parallel to the bulb preventing bulb-out sensors from triggering, so this is one form of "error-free". Needless to say these resistors can get very hot. Another form of "error-free" LED is one that can be inserted into a socket without worrying about polarity. These use rectifiers (diodes) in their base to make sure the LED gets the correct polarity. If I can find a schematic of how the visor light and HomeLink wires connect to the power circuit, maybe a rectifier circuit could work.

 

[SFHGolfTDI]

I think the majority of error free LED bulbs fall into the latter category, which is what prompted my question. I wish someone who has done this mod would just put in an error free LED and try it out.

 

[joanzen]

I know this is an old thread, but thought I'd add my recent experience. I have a new 2015 Passat SE TDI. I ordered the Homelink visor from parts.com (P/N: 561857551J4T6- Tan - $118). The wire coming from the roof has two wires; 1 brown and 1 brown/red stripe. The wire on the Homelink visor has three wires; 1 brown, 1 brown/red stripe, and 1 brown/blue stripe. I cut the connector from my old visor to replace the connector on the Homelink visor. I stripped and twisted the brown/red and brown/blue from the visor together and spliced to the brown/red on the old visor connector. I spliced the solid brown from the visor to the solid brown on the connector. The splices were accomplished by using 18-22gauge butt splices from a local auto parts store. I then just connected the visor to the connector from the roof; just like with the old visor. I reinstalled the visor and it all works perfectly. The Homelink is hot all the time with this solution, but my car is always parked in the garage, so it's not a concern. All in all, it took less than 15 minutes to put it all together.

 

[2006TDIMEX]

MK6 or B7

Hi

I know this is an old thread.. But has anyone tried this on Golf or Jetta MK6?

Thank you

 

[2006TDIMEX]

Mk6

I know this is an old thread, but thought I'd add my recent experience. I have a new 2015 Passat SE TDI. I ordered the Homelink visor from parts.com (P/N: 561857551J4T6- Tan - $118). The wire coming from the roof has two wires; 1 brown and 1 brown/red stripe. The wire on the Homelink visor has three wires; 1 brown, 1 brown/red stripe, and 1 brown/blue stripe. I cut the connector from my old visor to replace the connector on the Homelink visor. I stripped and twisted the brown/red and brown/blue from the visor together and spliced to the brown/red on the old visor connector. I spliced the solid brown from the visor to the solid brown on the connector. The splices were accomplished by using 18-22gauge butt splices from a local auto parts store. I then just connected the visor to the connector from the roof; just like with the old visor. I reinstalled the visor and it all works perfectly. The Homelink is hot all the time with this solution, but my car is always parked in the garage, so it's not a concern. All in all, it took less than 15 minutes to put it all together.

I did the same on a 2013 Jetta and the homelink didn't work... The vanity light worked fine... Now Am going to try to run the pin 3 wire to the mirror socket wire.. Hope it works..