Should I Replace Clutch/Flywheel/Bearings on '04 Jetta?

[ives]

Hello All-
I've done a fairly thorough search. Save reading for days, all I've found were specific wear questions and general debate about when to replace things.... SO:
My Issue:
A-When I'm at a stop (and more so when I'm at any sort of incline), I have to slip the clutch a significant amount, as the car shudders and I attempt to pull the car to a decent speed by reving it up, to where I an finally moving fast enough to shift to 2nd.
B-Occasionally, and more and more often over the last year and a half, if I'm not 100% on my A game with shifting, (like foot complately to the floor, shift, then release like butter)... I'm likely to grind the gear, swear, hit the steering wheel, and shamefully re-shift.
C-VW mechanic says I need:
New Clutch, New dual stage flywheel, new bearings... Will run me ~$2,200 with labor.
FINAL: Is this fair? Should I do it? Read below to gain context - it's impotrant.

My Car:
2004 Jetta GLS TDI, 5 spd Manual, PD Engine
Platinum Grey / Black Leather / Winter Package / All options
Details:

• Bought Cert Preowned at 57k (Jan 2009), now at 200k (Feb 2014)
• Drove ~120,000 miles in the last 3 years. ~80,000 in the last year.
• I commute 100 miles a day for work. 99% Hwy at ~75mph.
• I regularly get 40mpg without trying with 15" michelin x-ice snow tires.
• GREAT body shape (detailed every 16 months or so)
• GREAT interior shape ( " " )

Upgrades:

• Frostheater (have lived in New England, Alaska, and now South Dakota)
• E-Code Headlights (w/ leveling motors, switch, HID fogs & euro rear fog)
• Panzer Plate (best purchase ever.)
• iPod Adapter to CD Changer (2nd best purchase ever)

Replaced over life:

• Tires twice?
• Brakes twice?
• 2 or 3 CV axels/boots/mismatch, etc
• Fuel Filter every 20-30k miles
• Oil every 5k-8k depending on driving cond.
• Suspension bushings at 80k
• Timing Belts at 80k and 160k

Also on the outs...

• shocks and maybe springs
• maybe some fuel lines are leaking
• probably could use an intake cleaning
  
  [*](this car doesn't have a snow screen?)​

What I've done:

• Driven across Canada to Alaska
• Driven the entire paved Alaskan roadway system
• Driven 18k miles all around the country visiting 46 states over 4 months entirely living out of the car (and sleeping in) with my girlfriend.
• Including off-road multiple times.
  
  [*]achieved 56 mpg with junk tires on junk gas, driving form New Hampshire to Virginia on one tank.​

THIS:
I work at a nonprofit making ~25k after taxes. Spend about ~2-3k a year in car maintenance (and until recently loan payments). And spend about ~$7,500 in diesel a year.
So, it's a two parter (1) Is it a clutch (sorta the whole trans?) and (2) is that worth it?
Thanks for all your advice and thoughts.
I love Jetta, but my biggest thought is that I replace this clutch/trans set up and then I have a $900 TB in 5 months when I hit 240k and then maybe a turbo, vacuum hoses.... Putting away so little money and commuting so much... I'm at a loss.
Is it worth it to keep her going?

 

[sirpuddingfoot]

That sounds like too much for a clutch/flywheel repair. VW Mechanic = dealer? I'd recommend checking other prices since IDparts.com (one of our trusted vendors who is in the NE) sells an upgrade kit (with a "won't ever break on you" single mass flywheel) for 360. I can't imagine any proper mechanic taking more than 8 hours to replace the clutch. Even with a hefty parts markup, you're getting hosed.

That is, unless your shifting issue is actually indicative of a different issue and we didn't get enough info about the recommended repairs.

The dual mass flywheel is a known failure point. Beyond that, 200k on an OE clutch is not bad at all. I would highly recommend the single mass replacement.

 

[zardnarf]

Agreed, go with the single-mass. I had this same work done six months ago for under $1100 and that included a wheel bearing replacement.

The only downside to the single-mass is they have a bit of a chatter to them. Overall I've been happy wirh it.

 

[Tdijarhead]

Forget the dual mass, go with a single. I bought a kit from idparts and am very happy with it. They also sell a "quiet clutch" single mass when/if I have to replace it again I think I will give that one a whirl, so you can have the quietness of a DMF with the reliability of a SMF.
2200 seems a bit much, check around or do it yourself.

 

[ives]

I wouldn't be able to do the work myself. I don't live a place/situation where that is even close to possible.

The work is at a VW dealership - though it is one that I've developed a decent relationship with. If anyone has recommendations for a mechanic in the Rapid City, South Dakota area (or Denver... only 6 hours away). I'd be interested.

With the VW dealer, I get a 12,000 mile (aka ~3 month) warranty.... so, there's that. They told me the DMF was $800-900 for the part, 7 hours labor, + OEM clutch and bearings.

 

[ives]

Any thoughts on if this could be more than my clutch?
Would my occasional grinding do any real damage to the transmission?

 

[eb2143]

If you're on a budget you may want to consider the LUK: http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?p=4393698#post4393698

This is one time I don't think it's necessary to buy a genuine VW part, given that stock Sachs has subpar longevity. If you want a single mass, get one of the quiet kits from a reputable vendor.

I bought the LUK 17-050 rep set (pressure plate, clutch disc, flywheel already assembled). Also comes with throwout bearing. I also replaced clutch fork, pivot ball spring and pin, fluid, and all single-use bolts with genuine VW parts from 1stvwparts.com.

No, $2,200 is not fair.
Labor should run 4-6 hours.You'll find a lot of people who don't do many, hate doing them, and will quote you 7-10 hours. In South Dakota, I would think you could find someone competent in the $75/hr range. You don't need to be a TDI expert to do the clutch, but someone who sees a lot of MKIVs will be able to do it in the 5 hour range. Indie VW/Audi shop? My total with above parts came to $650 installed.

If the transmission oil has never changed, that could help grinding. Does the grind get better when it's up to temperature?

I don't know what to say about keeping the car or not. You'll have to figure costs for the alternative.

You can save a little money by not changing your oil every 5-8k if you're doing 90+% highway miles and using correct oil.

 

[zardnarf]

Any thoughts on if this could be more than my clutch?
Would my occasional grinding do any real damage to the transmission?

The symptoms you described in your OP are the exact symptoms I experienced in my '04 Jetta. I have no doubt that you only need a new clutch and the associated parts.

As far as the grinding goes, I wouldn't put off doing the clutch. While you're at it change your transmission fluid if that hasn't been done recently, it's easy.

 

[zardnarf]

Shocks & springs, fuel lines, and dirty intake? Cheaper to take care of these things than purchasing a new car or a used car that has unknown maintenance history.

Take care of the fuel lines soon. Shocks & springs when you feel like it. I have read that you won't notice much if any difference in performance after having your intake cleaned. That is unless it's near complete restriction.