Sermon on the (Motor) Mounts on a B4 Passat

hover_one

Veteran Member
Joined
Jun 26, 2000
Location
6 acres west of Waco
TDI
Jetta '03 GLS TDI Navy Blue
Sorry, no photos--I spent my allowance on car parts instead of a digital camera.

After e-mail consultation with Herm (thanks! /images/graemlins/grin.gif), I orderd my parts and they came in yesterday. I was successful in replacing the front motor mount today and ran out of time so I had to reassemble and get home...I will have the other ones done soon, but I learned some things today that may be of help in the future. First and foremost--the only way that any motor mount "just drops in" is if the old one is out of the way first.

I didn't have an overhead engine hoist, so I had to lift the engine from the bottom with a floor jack. If doing so, be careful where you place the jack under the engine. I may have at one point jacked it up too high, because the hose from my MAF disconnected itself. No telling what else flexed a bit far... overhead hoist is probably the best way to go.

Pull both front wheels and you can see the left and right rear mounts (that doesn't mean you can reach all of the bolts).

1. FRONT MOUNT: If you've changed the oil filter you know what a pain it is jockeying that item into place and then spinning it on in some contorted position. Our beloved cars do not provide a lot of working room. Look closely at the mount you are taking out. Two metal "fingers" are on a tab that stabilizes the thing. know where they were when you started so the next one will look like that when you finish. This ties together because you will have to twist and turn and convince the darned thing into place-- THEN sure enough, it "just drops in." It takes an 8mm allen wrench or a tool that fits into a socket to "become" an 8mm allen wrench for the bottom of the front mount. I didn't have to fully remove the starter, but the bolt did have to come out. SAFETY TIP--go ahead and disconnect the battery because when your wrench arcs on a hot connection while working near the starter, everyone in the auto craft-shop will call you "Sparky" for the remainder of the day /images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif)

2. RIGHT REAR mount(near the timing belt): I didn't get this one all the way out. The two bolts that go through the flange on the mount are relatively easy enough to remove with a box/crescent wrench, the top bolt has an extra bracket with some electrical connections on it that come off with a 13mm socket and about 18 inches of extensions, accessible from the top--note--car up on jacks, awkward position, its a long way up, to see and get back down in. I needed a chair to stand on. The motor mount top bolt goes through and secures to an aluminum bracket that attaches to the engine with 4 bolts. I was able to remove the four bolts and free up this bracket (with the motor mount still attached) and was able to rotate it around so I could see the top bolt (working underneath the car), but could never get enough leverage to undo it and reassemble it in place, or get it out the top. The two items were too big to remove as a unit to take to a bench and r&r the old mount (the driveshaft to the rt front wheel was in the way...) You can clearly see how the two fingers on the lid "straddle" an edge on the aluminum mount to stabilize it from spinning. I reassembled this side.

3. LEFT REAR mount (near the transmission) What a PITA. Another one where you can get to the bolts that go to the flanges on the mount, but there is another aluminum bracket that the mount attaches to that I just couldn't remove. This is the one that everybody says is not designed to come completely out. I agree. I couldn't get in there, and the access to the bolts is a BEAR. I'll probably take this to a professional and have it done.

It was a great day under the car, and the good part is that even though I only got one mount (the front) replaced, the car already feels smoother, and it didn't jerk and shudder in first gear coming home. I'm going to re-attack the right rear as soon as I have a few hours again. I hope this helps somebody sometime.

John
 

Herm TDI

Vendor
Joined
Nov 21, 2001
Location
Richmond, Maine...The far side of Witsend
TDI
2002 Golf GLS Malone Stage 3, P+520 nozzles, 11MM Inj pump, Sachs VR6 clutch, Stelth Race Pipe, Immo Deleat, EGR Deleat
Hello John,

About the left (Driver's side) rear motor mount. Yes you must remove the mount "bracket" that is attached to the engine block. This bracket will not come out of the engine compartment....However you can manipulate the bracket out of the way so the motor mount can be replaced.

You should have aske me ...and I would have e-mailed you my plans and instructions for the engine hoist. My engine host is easy to build and makes A-3 / B-4 motor mount replacement much easier. This hoist also helps during clutch jobs. The engine hoist can be made for about $20 ...and this will make it a "Dual Point" engine hoist so you lift the whole engine from the two (2) hoist points.
 

sassyrel

Veteran Member
Joined
Mar 22, 2003
Location
aplington,iowa
TDI
passat,96,black-metalic
herm--jist pulled the trans in my car because of clutch springs failure--got the left rear bracket out-------removed the two bolts on the "can", took out the two top bolts on the bracket--the bottom one will N O T come out--trust me---B U T--a "blue" wrench removed the bolt in pieces once loose--how get back in??? take a drill and bit the same size as hole on trans and drill thru the threads from the back side!!!-put in longer bolt of same grade and put nut on it!!!!!-end of problem-i had easier as trans was out when drilled mine--but i looked before pulling--is just enough room to drill from back side.......
 

RIP TDI

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Feb 16, 2000
Location
Santa Barbara, CA
TDI
'15 GSW SE 6MT, '01 Golf 5MT, '97 Passat sedan, '96 Passat variant
[ QUOTE ]
hover_one said:

2. RIGHT REAR mount(near the timing belt): I didn't get this one all the way out...I was able to remove the four bolts and free up this bracket (with the motor mount still attached) and was able to rotate it around so I could see the top bolt (working underneath the car), but could never get enough leverage to undo it and reassemble it in place, or get it out the top.

[/ QUOTE ]

To remove, give yourself more working room by removing the intake flex hose and intake "down pipe" (to turbo). Remove the heat shield from the engine mount bracket. Now you can remove the mount-to-bracket bolt from the top with a long extension. Remove the 2 mount-to-subframe bolts, then the 4 bracket bolts. You can now completely angle the bracket out of the car, then lift out the mount.
 

hover_one

Veteran Member
Joined
Jun 26, 2000
Location
6 acres west of Waco
TDI
Jetta '03 GLS TDI Navy Blue
Oh.

Thanks, I'll try that! I ordered a Bentley manual off of e-bay last night, I'm going to get more familiar, and very shortly I'm going to have some FUN working on a great car.

Herm, before I try that, could you send me the plans on that engine lifting device?

You guys are the best!

John
 

RIP TDI

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Feb 16, 2000
Location
Santa Barbara, CA
TDI
'15 GSW SE 6MT, '01 Golf 5MT, '97 Passat sedan, '96 Passat variant
[ QUOTE ]
Herm TDI said:
Hello John,

About the left (Driver's side) rear motor mount. Yes you must remove the mount "bracket" that is attached to the engine block. This bracket will not come out of the engine compartment....However you can manipulate the bracket out of the way so the motor mount can be replaced.


[/ QUOTE ]
A little tip for the "manipulation" phase...loosen the 2 power steering fittings at the steering gear and rotate the hoses up and back. They sit right on top of the transmission mount and prevent the mounting bracket from being rotated up and back far enough to allow the mount to be removed.

Also, if you don't want to fabricate a hoist, Harbor Freight Tools has a drivetrain support beam for about $70 that does what Herm's hoist does. I have one and it works well.
 

sassyrel

Veteran Member
Joined
Mar 22, 2003
Location
aplington,iowa
TDI
passat,96,black-metalic
the mount bolts to the "can" on the frame with two short bolts-then three on the trans-and could not get out the top mount bolt--not 4 as you mention, chris--the bottom would not come out--was 1 in short of coming out--was reason for blue wrench-----
 

RIP TDI

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Feb 16, 2000
Location
Santa Barbara, CA
TDI
'15 GSW SE 6MT, '01 Golf 5MT, '97 Passat sedan, '96 Passat variant
[ QUOTE ]
sassyrel said:
the mount bolts to the "can" on the frame with two short bolts-then three on the trans-and could not get out the top mount bolt--not 4 as you mention, chris

[/ QUOTE ]
I was talking about the rear engine mount in that post.
 

Herm TDI

Vendor
Joined
Nov 21, 2001
Location
Richmond, Maine...The far side of Witsend
TDI
2002 Golf GLS Malone Stage 3, P+520 nozzles, 11MM Inj pump, Sachs VR6 clutch, Stelth Race Pipe, Immo Deleat, EGR Deleat
[ QUOTE ]
hover_one said:
Oh.

Thanks, I'll try that! I ordered a Bentley manual off of e-bay last night, I'm going to get more familiar, and very shortly I'm going to have some FUN working on a great car.

Herm, before I try that, could you send me the plans on that engine lifting device?

You guys are the best!

John

[/ QUOTE ]

..Howdy John...I tried your e-mail addy...its not a valid address. Drop me an E-mail and I'll send you the info. Or Try this.... View Hoist Info
 

Skimax

Veteran Member
Joined
Mar 4, 2001
Location
White mts, NH
TDI
97 B4 variant(retired at 330K), 2013 SE (buyback5/17) 2015 SEL, 2015 E-Golf SEL sold March 2019, 2018 Volt LT and a 2007 PRHT MX5 for fun
I just did all 3 mounts on my 97 B4, about $150 from germanautoparts.com. I fabricated a hoist per HermTDI's plans.
It worked great. I'm willing to ship it to anyone who needs to use it(at their own risk). Send me a check for $60 and I will ship it to you UPS and return the balance, less $10 for handling and the shipping to you, after I receive it back from you, send me a pm.
A few tips I discovered that I haven't seen posted yet about the PITA hydraulic transmission mount.
1;An air ratchet worked great for removing the trans. mount to the chassis "mounting cup" bolts with a deepwell 6 point socket.These bolt heads were quite rusted and a 12 pt. socket might round them off. The ratchet just fit in between the inner fenderwell and the trans. end cover.
2; The lowest bracket bolt, that can't be removed because it hits the chassis mount "cup", needs only to be loosened enough to allow the bracket to be pivoted rearward. If you back out this bolt too far it will hit the "cup" when you try to lift the engine/trans. enough to remove/install the mount. I didn't have to loosen any PS lines!
3; The other bracket bolts for this mount are easy to get at if you have a 18" long extension and come in from the fender well. BTW my trans. mount was leaking and came out in 2 pieces when I removed it!
4; I removed the intake pipe between the intake manifold and the pipe to the intercooler. This made it a lot easier to access the starter bolts and wiring so the front mount bracket could be removed. It also made for easier access to the top transmission mount bolt. My car has ABS and it is right above this mount.
Good luck
 

AlanTDI

Veteran Member
Joined
Apr 18, 2002
Location
Long Island NY, relocating to Louisiana next week
TDI
1996 Passat wagonTDI, 02 jetta sedan, on the dark side 2017 Rav4
Hello,
So, I know this is a very old post. Would anyone know if the Hydraulic mount
is still available? My 1996 Passat wagon pulls to the side when I hit the accelerator.

I think the parts numbers are 1h0199262L and 3A0199402, I already replaced the front motor mount
Thank you
Alan
 

ToddA1

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 3, 2011
Location
NJ 08002
TDI
'96 B4V, '97 B4, '97 Jetta
Last time I bought these, was a few years ago And they were getting tough to find. i went through Bora Parts, but it’s now Cascade German. Otherwise, try the dealer... I think most other places carried the mounts, but they weren’t hydraulic.

-Todd
 

Steve Addy

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 7, 2002
Location
Iowa
TDI
97 Mk3
Hello,
So, I know this is a very old post. Would anyone know if the Hydraulic mount
is still available? My 1996 Passat wagon pulls to the side when I hit the accelerator.

I think the parts numbers are 1h0199262L and 3A0199402, I already replaced the front motor mount
Thank you
Alan
According to Etka online (Ellis VW in Atlanta) the 1H0199262L (or 1H0199262J)... mounting is still available...for $153.72. Alternatively you can probably get it from Europe for less than that, in fact I think I saw it not long ago on ClassicVW.de for under $40. It's listed here for under $40. The 3A0199402 was listed on Ellis as NLA.

There are aftermarket versions of these that I would probably trust, especially the hydraulic versions of the passenger mount that look identical to the OE mounting.

Steve
 

garciapiano

Veteran Member
Joined
Feb 12, 2018
Location
Southern California
TDI
1997 Jetta TDI (1Z)
Alternatively you can probably get it from Europe for less than that, in fact I think I saw it not long ago on ClassicVW.de for under $40. It's listed here for under $40.
I tried placing an order for it and it won’t allow me to ship to the USA. Is there a secret handshake?

As for mounts, I have Febi rear hydraulic mounts and I believe a Corteco rubber up front. All work fine, but I’m in a Jetta.

I have found raising the engine from under the trans with the front mount disconnected, removing the driver wheel and a 13mm ratchet wrench is key to getting at the trans mount and its associated bolts. The top bolt is a bit of a bugger too... I fish a long extension down between the brake lines to get to the top bolt on the Jetta. Layout might be a bit different on the Passat.
 

Steve Addy

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 7, 2002
Location
Iowa
TDI
97 Mk3
I tried placing an order for it and it won’t allow me to ship to the USA. Is there a secret handshake?

As for mounts, I have Febi rear hydraulic mounts and I believe a Corteco rubber up front. All work fine, but I’m in a Jetta.

I have found raising the engine from under the trans with the front mount disconnected, removing the driver wheel and a 13mm ratchet wrench is key to getting at the trans mount and its associated bolts. The top bolt is a bit of a bugger too... I fish a long extension down between the brake lines to get to the top bolt on the Jetta. Layout might be a bit different on the Passat.
IDK, maybe they have stopped shipping to the US for some reason. Did you email them to see what the situation was? IDK if contacting VW Heritage would be any different or not.

I think it's almost easier to support the engine and remove the trans bracket to get the mount out but I can't remember the last time I did one like that.

I would think that the Febi hydro mounts are ok then again I don't know where they are made. I ordered a hydro mount from Beck Arnley a few years back it arrived in a box marked Germany so I was kinda stoked about that. I'm going to need another one in the near future I think

As for Passat v Jetta there really isn't any difference except that the Passat originally came without a hydraulic mount on the passenger rear, but one of the upgrades has been to replace that with the hydro mounting. Both of the others are the same between the two cars.

Steve
 
Top