Scirocco TDI

[G60ING]

BTW that bracket in my 1st picture is mounted backwards. Also early G60 brackets are different then later Vr6/TDI brackets for those that may use this thread in the furture for referance.

 

[hobojoker]

Alright, back from Chicago, parts are due to come Friday. I was hoping they'd be here.

I just got a spare transmission to play with... so maybe I will be installing the peloquin. I'll start taking that apart tomorrow.

 

[hobojoker]

Didn't have much time to work on the car today. I had other obligations. Brother's coming back from China, so hopefully I'll have my camera back.

I played with my spare transmission today, it's actually quite easy to take apart and put back together! I'll be getting a bit more practice with it before I decide for sure to put my tranny under the knife. Tomorrow hopefully my parts will come, and then I can start putting everything together for the engine install.

I still need to install the shifter... I have it out, and I have a ballpark idea of where to drill, but I'm having trouble getting an exact mark. I'll be doing that very soon though. I wanted to today, but I never got around to it.

 

[G60ING]

If you need any technical pics of the transmission I have dozens of pictures...I just have to send you a link later when i get home.

 

[hobojoker]

That would actually be awesome. A little piece fell out when I pulled the housing off and I can't for the life of me figure out where it goes. That's the only problem I encountered... besides not having the right sized T45 bit and stripping 2 screws and sawzalling them off. (I'll get a proper bit for my tranny!)

 

[hobojoker]

This is a shot in the dark, and I doubt it'll be true, but if it is... that's freaking awesome.

Is the ring gear on the original differential the same in an 02a as an 02j?

 

[G60ING]

The Mk4 Diff is the same as the mk3 TDI Diff. The Mk3 TDI uses an 02J diff.

The mk3 Ring gear is different then the mk4 ring gear...different Final drive ratios. the Mk3 has a MUCH more desireable 3.1 ratio versus the mk4 ratio of 3.3

 

[hobojoker]

The problem is, this transmission isn't from a tdi. I believe it's from a corrado... but I have no way to tell.

 

[Spulen81]

The problem is, this transmission isn't from a tdi. I believe it's from a corrado... but I have no way to tell.

You can tell by the code stamp on the top what ratios it has.

 

[hobojoker]

unfortunately, it's entirely scratched off... I'm unsure as of why.

My box of parts just came! Time to make some more progress. We'll see if I can head to work tomorrow... not sure if I'll be allowed. (It's closed)

 

[hobojoker]

Not sure if I'll be able to get to the car this weekend, but here's my to do list.

Install new control arm (YAY!)

Test drill a very small hole for shifter cables - eyeball it
If that works, install shifter assembly - if not, use it as a reference to perfect it.

Clean up wires from Scirocco harness in engine bay

make the H fitting for the fuel lines

replace the broken vacuum lines on engine... i may need way more than I thought.

Clean up the engine bay!!!

Finalize fuel lines (remove the old Scirocco lines)

Dawes device install perhaps?

We'll see what I get around to and what else comes up along the way.

 

[hobojoker]

As I've come to expect, more issues.

I worked on the car during my lunch break today, trying to attach the control arm to the ball joint.

Turns out, the ball joint is too small for the control arm, it won't reach in far enough for the holes to align. seriously, ***! So, I'm now going to get a new ball joint from the place i got the control arm... so that better freaking work.

Also, turns out that my front motor mount bracket is not the right one... or something. Because the hole in the scirocco engine mount is FAR too small for it. I know the mount is right, so my only conclusion is that the bracket is wrong... it was in a parts box in the back of the car along with a bunch of jetta parts, so it's not really that surprising =(

So, more delays -_- I'll do what I can in the meantime with the other parts.

Oh, an engine at work blew up today. The cummins engine in the crusher (it does exactly that, crushes big chunks of asphalt) blew a piston through the block. After we've removed it and put it back at least 6 times for oil leak issues... it just finished a full rebuild today with a new head and, no less than 10 minutes later. BOOM!

Pics to come:

That side's fine...

How's the other??

Upon closer inspection

That's the machine.

 

[Redneck Truck]

that looks like an expensive failure! was it from hydrolock or overspeed or what? or given the close proximity to the maintenance i guess i'd have to put my money on an improperly installed or faulty head, gasket, or hardware.

 

[hobojoker]

All my motor mounts besides the rear one are all rotted out... waiting on new ones.

I just realized. I need to figure out what to do about mounting the radiator... I should probably use an mk1/scirocco radiator? Has anyone tried using the donor car radiator?

 

[hobojoker]

So I'm just going to tilt the radiator to get it to fit.

I'm so frustrated! Right now, the only thing keeping me from dropping the engine in and running it (although the car can't be driven) is not having the engine mounts.

I was sorting through a box of parts that came with the 'rocco... I found 3 new engine mounts!! The problem is, they're regular rubber mounts but with polyurethane injected into it, so they're super stiff. I don't want that, and I'm not going to install the engine, then have to drain the coolant and oil and everything and reinstall it just to put in the new mounts =(

It's frustrating to say the least. Oh well, I guess I'll have to wait.

 

[hobojoker]

So the shifter is installed, finally got that done just now.

I cleaned up the wires in the engine bay, also repaired the broken vacuum line on th engine.

Waiting for my new ball joint to arrive with the engine mounts before I can get that new control arm in. Then hopefully the engine is going in. Unfortunately that may need to wait an extra week. I'm being "observed" at work, so I won't be able to go play with my car much. We'll see if they let me stay late.


I also cleaned up the old fuel lines, removing some more of them, but I left parts where the new ones are zip tied in...

The H fitting for the new lines isn't installed yet. I don't know whether I should put it before or after the fuel filter, or whether it even makes a difference. If I can find a fuel pressure gauge I'll test the pressure in both places. I should just head over to home depot and do that and get the stuff for the dawes device.

That'll probably be done in the meantime while I wait for the mounts.

I want to delete my EGR now, I'm looking for a cheap egr valve, doesn't really matter if it's working. If anyone has one, I'd be happy to take that off your hands. This isn't too important though. Simply a "when I can find a egr valve for cheap, I'll do it"
(For stealth race pipe)

I really need to get this thing going, it needs to be done in 21 days!

I'm curious about whether or not my clutch cable is long enough, I may need to swap that out. But how hard could that be? I'll do some measuring later.

 

[hobojoker]

Wow, I was expecting a long wait. My parts just came today! Lets see if I can get this engine in Monday *crosses fingers*

 

[G60ING]

Sorry for the delay. I had never cleaned up my transmission photo albums when I transfered over my pics to shutterfly so all of the transmission pics were in one album and they were out of order. I've put them together the best I could over the past hour while watching my son. let me know if you need the captions updated and I'll work on them later this week. Here is the page with all of my transmission pics:

http://corradoalleystransmissionrelated.shutterfly.com/

 

[hobojoker]

Thanks G60ING. I went over to home depot to get the stuff for that H fitting, and of course they didn't have it. So, I scrounged around work and found all the pieces i needed that home depot didn't have, so I'll be going there after work again today (or at lunch) and picking up the rest of the stuff for that H fitting.

The mechanic is using his engine hoist, but he said I can take it in "a couple of days" so hopefully I'll have it by the end of the week.

So now I've got the control arm and new ball joint in, I've got the shifter cables in, I've got the engine mounts pressed on and I've removed the fuel inlet restrictor. Now I'm going to wire in a few accessories (finally figured out the best way) and see what else I can do. I'll be flushing the fuel tank a few times just to get any metal shavings from the fuel restrictor out. (There's a 10000 gallon tank of diesel at work... or maybe 7000? so it's easy to get =P)

One thing I'm unsure of is what kind of bolts to use to mount the engine. I assume you can't just use regular bolts? They'd have to be high strength, right? Anyone know where I can obtain these?


Also going to see if I can get all the parts for the dawes device at home depot.


I'll be sure to have my camera ready when I finally drop the engine in. Then, once it's running, a video.

I'm hoping the scirocco 16v axles will work with the scirocco 16v. I'm doubting it though. I still have the stock axles and I have a bunch of random ones of different lengths that were just in the back of the 'rocco when I got it. So I'm sure I'll have something that fits =P

 

[hobojoker]

Oh, a question for you G60ING, where did you put the H fitting in your setup? Before or after the fuel filter, and if before, how far back?

I was planning to put it on the black fuel lines that are pre-fuel filter that hook up to the fuel lines from the tank. They need to be extended a little for my setup anyway. I don't think that'll create problems

 

[G60ING]

I did it before the fuel filter so the full PSI did have to flow through the fuel filter.

 

[G60ING]

I made my H fitting with a 5/16" T and 1/4" T. I cut off part of the 1/4" T and drilled out out to accept the 5/16" T so it would not bottom out and then brazed it together.

 

[hobojoker]

Went over to the mechanic again today because I'm super eager to get this engine in. I asked him when he could lend me the engine hoist, monday was the answer

So, that's bothersome. It's not the end of the world, but it puts me on a very tight schedule. I guess I'll take off work next week and only work on the car.

Now, I really need to figure out what bolts to use for the engine mounts!

The ones from the Golf are stretch bolts and farrr too long, and the 'rocco didn't come with any bolts. So now I need to find bolts to mount the mounts to the engine, and the mounts to the body. Would the home depot bolts work?? I don't trust them to be strong enough, but if anyone can tell me otherwise.

 

[markward]

Can you rent an engine hoist from a tool rental place? You might be better off and be able to get started this weekend. Hopefully the rental place would be closed on Sunday, so you get a day free. Also, I never used an engine hoist working on any of the early VW water cooleds. The engine always came out the bottom. It was easier. I made a tool that mimicked the factory support tool. It spanned both fenders and had a peice of threaded rod with a hook bent into the end. This allowed you to support the engine from the ear on the cylinder head. One or two floor jacks and a friend should be all you need. If you have to fab a mount or two, the fender support will let you suspend the engine while you work on it. Baum tool part number 10-222A. Regards

 

[G60ING]

I'll check the grade of my rabbit's bolts

 

[hobojoker]

Thanks for checking that G60ING.

I was looking at renting one, but due to other constraints it actually works out better to do it on Monday. Which really stinks.

(Basically, I'm not allowed to work on the car except during my half hour lunch break until monday)

 

[SeththeRuthless]

American inch bolts typically come in three basic grades: Grade 2, Grade 5, and Grade 8. Metric bolts are usually found in two classes: M8.8 and M10.9. M8.8 is very comparable to Grade 5 and M10.9 to Grade 8. Here's a handy reference that gives the strengths of these typical bolts: http://www.k-tbolt.com/bolt_chart.html

On old American cars, the bolts typically used are comparable to Grade 5. When I've done custom work, I've always used a minimum of Grade 5 (unless it was something completely non-structural, then I'd be OK with Grade 2) and Grade 8 when I expected high loads (engine/transmission mounts, suspensions, etc).

I would recommend you to use M10.9 bolts for the motor mounts. I don't know of Homo Depot has them, but most good hardware stores should.

On a similar note, does anyone know why VW used stretch bolts on the TDI motor mounts? I understand the concept and advantages of TTY bolts in critical engine components (head bolts, rod bolts, etc) and the predictable and uniform clamping forces they give, but is this really necessary for MOTOR MOUNTS!? Were they just trying to get away with smaller diameter bolts and needed TTY bolts to reach sufficient clamping force?

I'm not trying to derail the thread, but it seemed relevant.

 

[hobojoker]

That is relevant, but of course I'm not the person to answer.

Thank you very much for that information. I'll see if I can find some the right size tomorrow.

 

[G60ING]

8.8 is what I found

 

[hobojoker]

Good to know, I'll try to get the 10.8, but if I can't find that then I'm going to assume that 8.8 will work.

Anyone else able to think of anything I should do before the engine is in? =P