Running well, then slowed and stopped.

[cherrybomb]

2003 VW Beetle TDI (ALH) with A/T. Bought this as non running car after sitting for 2 years. Prior owner replaced upper and lower O-Rings in the IP (pump), but did not bleed it and lost interest since would not start. Car had 1/2 tank fuel at time. Changed the fuel filter, air filter, oil & Filter, then removed the upper and lower IP case to insure the QA was in the hole on the shaft and resealed the IP. Filled the filter with fuel, and pulled fresh fuel thru the IP using MV. Opened the injector caps and cranked over in brief intervals until fuel and bubbles appeared. Continues to spin over and got fuel as we opened and closed the caps. Car began to run and crank on its own w/o a charger. Over several days we started it and moved around the area w/o any issues. Finally decided to try a longer run and drove it home. Car ran and shifted well; then it started well next morning when we drove it back to shop area. About 1 mile from start, it lost power and quit on a hill, but coasted off roadway. Cycled the ignition switch, it began to start and then ran in a reduced power mode to the shop about 8 miles. We previously added 5 gallons of fresh diesel to the old fuel including some DIesel Power additive prior to beginning the 20 miles round trip. Tried to start this AM after replacing the long injector return hose that appeared to seep fuel. We loosened the caps on injector and strong stream of fuel that went up to hood and on windshield. Did not seem to want to run. Temp was high 40' F and pre-heat symbol came on then went off before we tried to start. Have not verified the air shutoff valve is operating properly or checked the tank pick up. Since car ran well after the initital start and cranked after overnight sit, did not suspect the new fuel filter leaked air. Do not have a VCDS or VAGCOM but plan to. What are recommendations on resolving this no start and run situation?

 

[Nero Morg]

Check to make sure the tank didn't start growing? Could have been a bio blend, and if untreated, algae could be plugging the pickup sender.

 

[Mongler98]

1st thing to do on any used thing like this... check timing bent and TDC the engine and make sure it all lings up
2nd, never fill the fuel filter. fill it via drawing from the tank.
3rd get a can of liquid molly diesel purge and put a hose into it going right to the IP and put the return into the can. if it ill not run off this... you have mechanical issues.
start here as its the easy tests.

 

[cherrybomb]

Thanks. will ck the belt, tank pick up and filter ASAP. Car ran well with fresh fuel and from filter change into IP and to injectors, ran good for 15 miles and then had the problem. Seems as mechanical problem would have revealed early, but will check belt and fuel tank pick up. Algae or fuel contamination a possible source of problem. Thanks Sometimes I may use gasoline and gas engine terminology but trying to learn Diesel.

 

[cherrybomb]

Removed belt cover and inspected Timing belt, appeared to be excellent condition. Removed the fuel filter, drained from bottom, no water droplets, then emptied fuel from top side to look for contamination or evidence of algae. Found no specks or obvious contamination. The fuel appears to be normal so we used the outboard boat fuel bulb to pump fuel from the tank line out into container to verify no problem at tank pickup. 1-2 squeezes on bulb and clean fuel ran thru clear line into our container. The Air Shutter valve appeared open so that item is not suspect. Possibly the car defaulted to "LIMP" mode since it ran well prior the initial incident. Allowed us to drive back to shop at reduced speed. The CEL (MIL) light, lower left corner of speedo pod, is on and the seat belt (orange seat) below the CEL on left is illuminated. Perhaps my Torque Pro will give limited info. No access to VAGCOM presently.

 

[Nero Morg]

If the fuel looks good, that's promising.

Check for codes, hopefully it's not something like a crank sensor or the #3 injector needle lift sensor.

Another possibility is restricted cat. Sitting for so long, depending on conditions, could have gotten moisture up there and rusted.

 

[BobnOH]

Maybe air is getting back in the fuel system.

 

[Mongler98]

Checking the belt is not good enought. Set the engine to TDC (top dead center) and check everything ligns up.
Check the fuse and relay block and pull the 109 relay and check for corrosion. A heater core failure 5 years ago could cause massive corrosion down there. Should be a quick look.
If you get it running check jnvcds the timing advancement is not jumping around, this would indicate a walking crank sprocket.
Make sure the intercooler is drained as well. If a little oil comes out, that's fine. If a lot comes out thata bad.
The turbo and engine has been sitting for years. Check the air box and pipes for rodent activity. Take the intake boot off the turbo and wiggle the shaft. A small side to side is normal but it should have nearly no forward and back movment and should turn freely.
Check that the turbo actuator moves freely as well.
Past this. We do have a great no start trouble shooting thread.

Take a quick look at the entire wiring harness in the engine for any rubbing or damage from rodents.
Unless the nozzles are gummed up you have ruled out the fuel issue. Did you check that the shutoff solenoid clicks when given 12v?
You should also check the ASV (anti shutter valve) is operating properly as well.

 

[cherrybomb]

Cked wiring and vacuum hoses, no evidence of rodent chews. The relay 109 appears good sin ce the pre-heat lamp operates normally. A review of the intro posted should reveal some details regarding our efforts. The car was operating normally 2 years ago, purchased from BIL estate. He dropped by and showed us a leak on the middle part of the IP. Very small seep so we advised him to get help and reseal the upper and lower O-RIngs. Provided him with the procedure and suggest he mark pump housing, carefully do the deals and bleed system, then have a VAGCOM adjustment for the IPQ Adj. Apparently he only did the reseal and could not bleed the system, so car was parked. It was operating well prior to the reseal job. Fast forward 2 years and the car was purchased from his estate. Car sat unmolested except a recent battery replacement. We changed the fuel filter, added 5 gal. fresh diesel fuel, verified the quantity adjuster was in the hole of the shaft and bleed the system, Was able to get it to crank and run well. Only 2 warning on speedo pod was the CEL and Seat Belt in lower left corner. Car left to idle 3-4 times for 20 to 30 minutes with no problems. Car cranked easily and drove well with only the 2 warning lamp lite. We were given 2 OEM Key Fobs by wife. The original she provided is the #1 used to operate the car during our initial stages of running the car. after servicing the oil, filter and various other maintenance items, we decided to drive the car home. Drove it 15 miles with no problem but the 2 warning lamps. Parked it overnight and next day changed to unused Key Fob #2 and used it to crank and start the car. No indication of problem, but less than 1 miles the car slowed and stalled. Cycled the key to off, then on and then another cycle, it started and ran in a reduced power mode back to shop distance of 14 miles. Several warning lamps were lite at this time. Used the Generic OBD2 reader, (Autel MD805), and obtained the following info.codes; Engine- 14, Air Bag-12, instrument-11Immobilizer-11, Central Conv.-16, Radio-12. Then; MAF-16436, EGR Excessive-16736, IPQ Adj. upper limit-17.75-17.95, Coolant Temp-16512. Perhaps this will help, but still need more research as to why the Speedo Pod is it up and Red Battery and several other lamps are now lite. Have downloaded the Ross Tech Basic and try to obtain a Cable to read codes by VAGCOM. Is the the Immobilizer or possibly the Speedo Pods problem?

 

[BobnOH]

Not the immobilizer. Not the relay 109. I'd suspect the IP was not properly repaired. Of course you want to rule that out, if you can, those things are expensive. I don't consider injection pumps and turbochargers as repairable by anyone but the experts, with some exceptions like seal replacement and vane cleaning.

 

[cherrybomb]

Resolved the problem today by Blind Luck. Was checking the Fuel Shutoff solenoid for power and discovered the nut & washer was missing. Had the car running and would not rev earlier. Took tie wrap and secured the wire eye by friction and car does well now. We neglected final tightening of the 8mm nut FSO when the QA was verified installed correctly in pump shaft . NOW, what size stud (diameter and thread pitch) so we can purchase correct replacement nut and washer? Also, what is the diameter of the sealing washers on the large banjo bolt for the return line on the IP

 

[Nero Morg]

Glad it was something silly. Wish I knew the thread size.

 

[Zak99b5]

For the copper crush washers on the return banjo, you can reuse them a couple of times without issue.

If they are not sealing well, you can remove them and heat them up well with a torch. Not sure if quenching them is necessary, but they should seal after that.

 

[Mongler98]

Resolved the problem today by Blind Luck. Was checking the Fuel Shutoff solenoid for power and discovered the nut & washer was missing. Had the car running and would not rev earlier. Took tie wrap and secured the wire eye by friction and car does well now. We neglected final tightening of the 8mm nut FSO when the QA was verified installed correctly in pump shaft . NOW, what size stud (diameter and thread pitch) so we can purchase correct replacement nut and washer? Also, what is the diameter of the sealing washers on the large banjo bolt for the return line on the IP

Did I not just tell you to check the IP solenoid for 12v? And to check the wiring.....
Glad you sorted it.
I've done this way to many times to many diesels. Forgetting to connect some small mundane detail!