rocketeer928 - My 2003 VW Jetta TDI

[jsrmonster]

Thanks a bunch, Jeff. Means a lot to read that! The Jetta's still doing great with the RC4, except my clutch slips a little. That's going to be fixed soon with a DC Stage III+.

I'm assuming that the other TDI that you're referring to is the IBW. That's a really sweet car too. Wish I had one myself. I would also really like a clean, low mileage (relative to diesels) MKIII Jetta TDI too. No $$$ or space for that right now, not to mention that my wife likely would not approve.

Yes the IBW is awesome, but I was referring to Pierre's 03' twin to yours ;-)

I could name quite a few other very nice tdi's too, that have so much attention to details. ie. LCR, Dok, jettafock, tdiracing, Delvi, and a bunch more, too many to list.

Jeff

 

[IndigoBlueWagon]

That's OK, I'm not offended. I've still got a nice A3.

 

[tothemax]

WOWWW! Tnx Jeff .. I really appreciate it. Your compliment means a lot to me.

P

Yes the IBW is awesome, but I was referring to Pierre's 03' twin to yours ;-)

I could name quite a few other very nice tdi's too, that have so much attention to details. ie. LCR, Dok, jettafock, tdiracing, and a bunch more, too many to list.

Jeff

 

[UberWagen]

Well, go get one already! From your signature, it looks like you enjoy having a few different vehicles.

BTW, I have a 2003 Tacoma too; black. It's good to have while the Jetta is in my garage while I am working on it over several days.

Yeah, I like too many types of vehicles. I've got a line on a Suzuki Samura I hope to pick up this week. I like the idea of putting a TD motor in it. Bought the Tacoma cheap with a blown motor. Put in a low mileage motor, lowered 3", tinted windows, nice stereo, and it's a great driver. Been out of VW's for 20 years, and then they were aircooled bugs, buses, and a squareback.

 

[03PlatinumTDI]

Hey Rocket,

How is the sway bar working out? Still creaking? I noticed that TDIParts is not currently selling it? I wonder if that is they are just out of stock or will not be selling it anymore.

I'm thinking that I may go with the H&R RSB so that I don't have to drill into the car.

Pete

 

[rocketeer928]

The rear sway bar is working out great! After I took out the washers I had originally installed, no more creaking.

Folks should ask IBW about your other question. I know the answer, but I'm not willing to say on the forum.

 

[Petesaguytdi]

Stock or other Springs?

Hey Rocketeer,

I am looking for your opinion on your suspension setup. I am due for a new setup and wondering if you run the stock springs with your FSD's. I would like go the same route as you did with a rear sway bar as well.

Have you found the stock springs at all too soft to counteract the shocks as some have mentioned in other threads

The main concern is that my panzer plate already bottoms out quite easily, which may be a symptom of the failing suspension. I would like to go with the Eiebach springs but am concerned that even with 10 mm spacers added I may run into trouble with our potholed roads in Edmonton considering the .75 to 1" lowering effect.

Anyone with experience with stock vs Eibach springs on FSD's that could waylay my fears on this would be much appreciated.

P.S. You car rocks. I get to do about one substantial mod every few years or so and reading your thread has got me soooo Jealous. Keep up the great posts

 

[Greaseburger]

Hey Rocketeer,

I am looking for your opinion on your suspension setup. I am due for a new setup and wondering if you run the stock springs with your FSD's. I would like go the same route as you did with a rear sway bar as well.

Have you found the stock springs at all too soft to counteract the shocks as some have mentioned in other threads

The main concern is that my panzer plate already bottoms out quite easily, which may be a symptom of the failing suspension. I would like to go with the Eiebach springs but am concerned that even with 10 mm spacers added I may run into trouble with our potholed roads in Edmonton considering the .75 to 1" lowering effect.

Anyone with experience with stock vs Eibach springs on FSD's that could waylay my fears on this would be much appreciated.

P.S. You car rocks. I get to do about one substantial mod every few years or so and reading your thread has got me soooo Jealous. Keep up the great posts

I am in the same mod boat as you, kids, a stay at home wife and pesky bills really tap into the mod fund i have been able to sneak some that were on my end of yr bonus list from the budget though which puts me one step closer to turbo upgrade

 

[rocketeer928]

My wife has been complaining mildly about the $$$ I've spent on modifying my car over the last 1.5 years because there's other things around the house that could use the money. I keep saying, "next year". She's a good sport, though.

I am running the FSDs with my stock springs for two reasons. First, at the time I bought the FSD package, I didn't have the extra dough to consider new springs, though I suppose I could have waited for a replenishment from my money tree in the back yard. Second and most important at the time, IBW at TDI Parts told me that the FSD shocks and struts were designed to work well with the stock springs. In my opinion, they do work fine. Not too mushy, and not too stiff. They are a little firmer than stock, which you can feel a little on the awful Connecticut roads, and they are great on a smooth highway, like when I drive into upstate NY. But, overall I'm happy with the FSD/stock spring combo. Besides, I didn't want to lower my car, and who looks at someone's springs anyway?

 

[Petesaguytdi]

Good to hear

My wife has been complaining mildly about the $$$ I've spent on modifying my car over the last 1.5 years because there's other things around the house that could use the money. I keep saying, "next year". She's a good sport, though.

I am running the FSDs with my stock springs for two reasons. First, at the time I bought the FSD package, I didn't have the extra dough to consider new springs, though I suppose I could have waited for a replenishment from my money tree in the back yard. Second and most important at the time, IBW at TDI Parts told me that the FSD shocks and struts were designed to work well with the stock springs. In my opinion, they do work fine. Not too mushy, and not to stiff. They are a little firmer than stock, which you can feel a little on the awful Connecticut roads, and they are great on a smooth highway, like when I drive into upstate NY. But, overall I'm happy with the FSD/stock spring combo. Besides, I didn't want to lower my car, and who looks at someone's springs anyway?

Thanks that puts me at ease as the thread I had read had the feel of someone that liked to track thier their car and most of my driving is smooth straight highway. Some of our in city roads are so bad that I would be worried if the suspension were too soft and since I rarely drive in town this sounds like a good setup to proceed with.

Is there any reason to believe that using the type of sway bar you did that the springs creat issues for the bar? I am sure I read awhile back that one should use stiffer springs when using the Shine bars. As I can't find the bar you are using at the moment I would likely go with the Shine unit. Part of of the reason for wanting to avoid new springs is to put the cash elsewhere such as towards the rear sway bar. This is all starting to come together now.

Thanks for your input, now to get it all put together $$$$$

 

[rocketeer928]

I have had no issues with my springs after installing the rear sway bar.

 

[Petesaguytdi]

Decisions

Well this is a wrap for me, I am in a quandary whether to go with the full Shine setup or just the Koni FSD on stock springs with the Shine bar. I think I will be going with the Shine Kit on Kerma's site as it just makes ordering to Canada that much simpler.

I will post my own thread to let people know how the difference between a 10 yr old suspension and and the new rig is. Can't wait.

 

[IndigoBlueWagon]

My .02 is FSDs with stock springs and a rear bar is the ideal setup in these cars for spirited street driving. I drove my B4 to the Fest on Sunday and was longing for the improved ride the FSDs offer. And with the rear bar to reduce roll and understeer the handling is really excellent. The car will feel firmer than stock--especially worn out stock--but it is actually better on bumps because the wheels aren't bouncing against the bump stops. It works in Montreal, perhaps some of the worst roads I've ever driven on (worse than NYC). Probably will work in Calgary, too.

 

[tothemax]

That's so funny... I am going through exactly the same thing... plus I just bought a 2 door golf just for racing and that caused the pot to boil ovefr....

My wife has been complaining mildly about the $$$ I've spent on modifying my car over the last 1.5 years because there's other things around the house that could use the money. I keep saying, "next year". She's a good sport, though.

 

[rocketeer928]

That's so funny... I am going through exactly the same thing... plus I just bought a 2 door golf just for racing and that caused the pot to boil ovefr....

Yeah, I told my wife that I would like to find a clean MKIII Jetta TDI to buy and keep stock. That was not received enthusiastically.

 

[rocketeer928]

DC Stage III+ Flywheel-Clutch-Pressure Plate, Rear Main Seal, and VR6 Flanges-Axles

At the June 2009 get-together at Ho5G in New Hampshire, I found out that the Valeo Flywheel-Clutch-Pressure Plate that I installed in July 2008 was downgraded. At the time of purchase, I was told that it would hold approximately 300 ft-lb of torque. Since then, it was downgraded to hold approximately 270 ft-lb of torque. Given the modifications I installed on my Jetta TDI and the RC4 tuning, I’m almost certain that I can produce more than 270 ft-lb. I already experienced some mild slipping, and I know it would only get worse when the colder weather arrives (cooler air = more power).

So, I purchased a DC Stage III+ Flywheel-Clutch-Pressure Plate, which included a balanced 17.5-lb lightened flywheel, an upgraded clutch fork, new throw-out bearing, and new transmission stretch mount bolts. While I was at it, I decided to install a new rear main seal and the VR6 flanges and axles that I picked up from a couple of west coast TDIers.

When I installed the Valeo clutch system, I swore up and down that I would never change my own clutch ever again because it was such a difficult job without a proper car lift. Well, never say never. I didn’t want to pay anyone to install the new clutch, flywheel, and other components, so I did end up doing this myself. While putting the transmission back into the engine bay, I discovered a handy trick that I did not think of the first time around. See below for details.

 

[rocketeer928]

Battery and Air Box Removal

I created a brake holding stick. Turned on the car and wedged the stick so that it engaged the brakes tightly, and then turned off the car.

Removed the plastic battery cover.

Removed the positive (red) and negative (black) terminals from the battery.

Removed the clamp and bolt holding down the battery with a 13-mm socket, then used needle-nose pliers to retrieve both.

Removed the cable tray from its holder, removed the holder that sits on top of the battery (no picture), and then removed the small plastic piece on the back of the battery platform.

Raised the cable tray and removed the battery. Removed the bolt holding the air box to the back of the battery platform with a 10-mm socket, and pulled the bolt out with a magnetic fetcher. Removed the bolt, nut, and washers for TDI Heater bracket from the battery platform with a 7/16-inch socket and wrench.

Removed the four bolts holding the battery platform down with a 13-mm socket, and removed the battery platform from the engine bay.

Disconnected the MAF air sensor by gently prying the end of the connector and sliding it off.

Loosened the t-bolt clamp with a 7/16-inch clamp, and disconnected the accordion air intake pipe from the air box.

Pulled the vacuum line off of the air box.

Removed the top bolt holding down the air box with a 10-mm socket.

Removed the air box. While the air box was removed, I also removed the air intake tube, cleaned the snow screen, and reinstalled (no picture).

 

[rocketeer928]

Short Shifter Components Removal

Removed the circlip holding the gate selector cable using a small screwdriver and then slipping it off.

Here’s the same circlip turned 180° for easier removal.

While holding the short shifter, removed the shifter retaining nut and washer with a 13-mm socket. In the picture you can see an arrow. This is where the thicker spline is located to ensure that the short shifter only goes on one way during reinstallation.

By wiggling back and forth, removed the top short shifter cable off of the spline.

Removed the reverse light connector, which is located on top and toward the front of the transmission (no picture). This connector was a little difficult to remove.

Unclipped the power steering hose from the black metal bracket.

Removed the three bolts holding the black metal bracket on top of the transmission with a 13-mm socket. In the picture, the bolts are shown in the middle and upper right.

Slid the gate selector cable out of the connector on the transmission.

Then I removed the two plastic sleeves.

Placed the front of the car on jack stands and removed the two front wheels. Sprayed the axle nuts with PB Blaster and let soak in for several minutes.

Removed the connector of the vehicle speed sensor located on top and toward the back of the transmission. It’s easiest to get to this connector from underneath the car.

 

[rocketeer928]

Axle Nuts and Splash Guards Removal

I first tried to remove the driver’s side axle nut by placing a screwdriver into one of the rotor’s drilled holes and using a breaker ratchet with a 30-mm, 12-point socket. That did not work. I ended up snapping the small Philips screw that is used to hold the rotor in place during its installation. I’ll have to drill out this bolt the next time I change my brake pads and rotors. The axle nut did not budge.

To remedy this situation, I installed a few lug bolts and used a long pipe on the breaker ratchet. This worked, and I removed both axle nuts holding the stock axles in place on the wheels. The driver’s side axle nut was really tight and extremely hot when it was finally removed; nearly burned my fingers when I tried to pick up the nut.

Removed the bumper skirting and Panzer skid plate (See Post Nr. 4).
Removed both the driver’s and passenger’s side plastic engine splash guards by unscrewing the star-shaped washer with a screwdriver.

Removed the driver’s side plastic fender well and splash guard with a Torx-25 screwdriver on 12 screws.

 

[rocketeer928]

Starter Motor Removal

Underneath the car, removed the front power steering support line bracket bolt, which is close to the TDI Heater, with a 13-mm socket.

Removed the rear power steering support line bracket bolt, which is attached to the bottom of the transmission, with a 13-mm socket.

Removed the stud nut on the lower starter motor bolt with a 13-mm socket, and then removed the power steering line bracket.

Loosened the lower starter motor bolt with an 18-mm open end wrench, but I did not remove the bolt yet so that when the upper starter motor bolt is removed the starter does not fall on the floor.

Removed the stud nut on the upper starter motor bolt with a 13-mm socket, and then removed the cable bracket.

Disconnected the upper connector from the cable bracket on top of the starter motor.

 

[rocketeer928]

Starter Motor Removal – Continued

Using a screwdriver, removed the black terminal cap covering the starter motor’s positive terminal wire.

Removed the positive terminal wire with a 13-mm socket.

Removed the negative terminal connector from the starter motor by squeezing the top and bottom spring clips.

Next, I unclipped the cables from the cable bracket to more easily access the upper starter motor bolt. Then removed the upper starter motor bolt with an 18-mm box end wrench.

Holding the starter motor with one hand, removed the lower starter motor bolt and carefully pulled out the starter motor.

 

[rocketeer928]

Transmission and OEM Axles Removal

Removed the two bolts holding the transmission black support bar with a 13-mm socket. The lower bolt also has a 13-mm nut.

Removed the two bolts to the slave cylinder with a 13-mm socket, and carefully slid the slave cylinder out of the transmission. Note: Don’t depress the clutch pedal at this point; doing so might rupture the green rubber boot.

Removed the white plastic heat shield over the passenger’s side axle CV joint with a 16-mm socket (See Post Nr. 4)

Removed the passenger’s side axle to 100-mm drive flange bolts with an 8-mm triple square bit. To remove one of the bolts, I had to lift the up the passenger’s side suspension in order to move the axle out of the way. Also, to keep the wheel from spinning, I had to insert the lug bolts.

Secured the passenger’s side axle with string over the exhaust downpipe; to be removed later.

Drained the transmission fluid by first removing the upper fill bolt with a 17-mm Allen socket and then removing the lower ECS magnetic drain bolt with a 17-mm socket. Once the transmission fluid was drained, the lower bolt was reinstalled.

While holding the passenger’s side 100-mm drive flange by inserting a screwdriver into one of its holes, removed the inner bolt with a 5-mm Allen socket (see the bolt in the above picture). I could not remove the 100-mm drive flange; the axle was in the way. So, the flange was removed later while removing the transmission.

Removed the driver’s side axle to 100-mm drive flange bolts with an 8-mm triple square bit in the same manner as the passenger’s side (no pictures). Using a 1” × 1½” × ~9” wooden board and a hammer, tapped the axle spline out from the wheel, and then removed the driver’s side stock axle by guiding the transmission side of the axle up into the engine bay and sliding out the splined side away from the wheel. Removed all of the grease from the axle and drive flange.

Removed the dogbone pendulum mount with a 16-mm socket on the two transmission bolts and a 13-mm socket on the two frame bolts (See Post Nr. 8). These four stretch bolts will be replaced.

Supported the engine with an engine support bar, and supported the transmission with a block of wood grooved to fit under the transmission bell and a hydraulic jack.

With the engine and transmission supported, removed the two transmission mount bolts with an 18-mm socket. These stretch bolts will be replaced.

Carefully lowered the engine and transmission incrementally until all three of the lower engine mount piece bolts were accessible, and removed the bolts with a 16-mm socket. It took a lot of wrenching to get these three bolts out because they are long. These stretch bolts will be replaced.

Carefully removed the lower engine mount piece from the top of the engine bay.

 

[rocketeer928]

Transmission and OEM Axles Removal – Continued

Removed the nut from the upper transmission combination bolt holding the ground strap with a 13-mm socket, and slid the ground strap off the bolt. Then removed the combination bolt with an 18-mm box end wrench.

Removed the two lower front transmission bolts with a 16-mm socket and wrench. One of the bolts is in front of the wooden block, and cannot be seen in the below picture. The lowest bolts could not be taken out of their respective holes until the transmission was completely out because the wooden block was in the way.

Removed the lower rear transmission bolt near the oil pan with an 18-mm socket.

Removed the lower rear transmission bolts with a 16-mm socket and wrench. This bolt is in front of the wooden block and could not be taken out of its hole until the transmission was completely out because the wooden block was in the way.

Removed the upper rear transmission bolt with a 16-mm socket.

All eight bolts holding the transmission to the engine are now removed, including the two combination bolts that hold the starter motor in place.

 

[rocketeer928]

Transmission and OEM Axles Removal – Continued

Marked the position of the driver’s side nut bracket for the control arm with yellow enamel spray paint, and let it dry.

Removed the three bolts underneath the control are using a 13-mm socket, and removed the bracket. Moved the wheel toward the back of the car to give some room to remove the transmission. As will be written below, I did not need to remove the control arm. I discovered an easier way.

Double checked that all wires and bolts on the transmission were disconnected. Went about removing the transmission from the engine and out of the engine bay. Not easy!

First, I gave the transmission a couple of gentle hits with a hammer to separate its seal from the engine. Then as I was sliding and wiggling the transmission away from the engine, I was incrementally lowering the hydraulic jack and working the power steering line above the transmission, eventually tying the power steering line out of the way. When I got the transmission spline separated from the Valeo clutch, I also started twisting the transmission counter-clockwise, as this is the only way to clear the flange portion of the transmission. During this process, I was able to remove the passenger’s side 100-mm drive flange. As I lowered the transmission, it was getting caught on something within the upper engine bay. At one point, when I dislodged whatever was getting caught (can’t remember what it was), the transmission let loose, the hydraulic jack spun out from under the car, and the transmission landed on my garage floor. Whoops, it’s out! This also caused the rest of the transmission fluid to drain out of the fill hole, which I cleaned up. There was no noticeable damage to anything. I dragged the transmission out from underneath the car and placed it on this old wagon to be worked on.

Once the transmission was out, removed the driver’s side 100-mm drive flange with a 5-mm Allen socket, using two of the flange bolts and a screwdriver to hold the flange in place.

Using a 1” × 1½” × ~9” wooden board and a hammer, tapped the axle spline out from the wheel, and then removed the stock passenger’s side axle. Cleaned out the grease from the axles and 100-mm drive flanges.

 

[rocketeer928]

VR6 Axles and Transmission Flange Seal Replacement

Here are two pictures of the stock TDI 100-mm drive flanges and axles. I’ll keep these until I’m certain that the VR6 axles and 108-mm drive flanges are working properly.

Here is a picture of the VR6 axles, 108-mm drive flanges, new flange seals, new 10-mm triple square flange bolts (there was one extra), and new axle nuts.

Here are the part numbers:
• 1J0-407-272-GF: Right passenger’s side VR6 axle
• 1J0-407-271-LK: Left driver’s side VR6 axle
• 084-409-189-B: Flange seal (two needed)
• 02A-409-355-H: 108-mm Drive flange (two needed)
• N-909-910-02: M10 × 23-mm Axle-to-flange bolt (twelve needed)
• N-905-876-02: 30-mm, 12-point Axle lock nut (two needed)

Using a seal puller, carefully, so as to not scratch any of the metal, pried out the old flange seals from both sides of the transmission.

Coating with a thin layer of molybdenum grease, carefully and gently hammered in the new flange seals until fully and evenly seated. Here is the passenger’s side flange seal.

And, here is the driver’s side flange seal.

Using a crowbar to push against the heavy spring of the 108-mm drive flange and a bolt and screwdriver to hold the assembly still, tightened the center bolt with a 5-mm Allen bit to 25 Nm (18 ft-lb). No grease is placed within the flange, as it is not needed with the enclosed CV joints of the VR6 axles.

Loosely installed the passenger’s side VR6 axle by hand tightening the axle lock nut and tying up the transmission side of the axle to the downpipe.

 

[rocketeer928]

Transmission Fork and Throw-out Bearing Replacement

Removed the clutch fork and throw-out bearing by detaching from the metal retaining clip on the bottom.

Here is a picture of the old clutch fork with the throw-out bearing still attached (top) and the new and separated clutch fork and throw-out bearing.

The supplier of the DC Stage III+ clutch kit suggested adding a 0.150-inch or smaller washer to the underside of the fork pivot ball to help the clutch pedal height to be similar to a stock feel. Therefore, removed metal retaining clip and then the fork pivot ball with a 17-mm long impact socket.

I used a 5/16-inch Zinc plated washer that was 0.11-inches thick.

Using Red 271 Thread Locker, reinstalled the fork pivot ball with a 17-mm long impact socket until firmly tightened.

Reinstalled the metal retaining clip. Cleaned up the transmission shaft, and applied a light coating of molybdenum grease to both the splined and smooth portion of the shaft. Also, applied a small amount of molybdenum grease to the fork pivot ball.

Carefully placed the new throw-out bearing onto the new clutch fork. The clips on the throw-out bearing are small and seem fragile, so I installed it as gently as I could.

Slid the clutch fork and throw-out bearing assembly onto the spline of the transmission housing and re-attached the metal retaining clip. Checked to make sure that the throw-out bearing slid smoothly back-and-forth on the spline.

I was concerned because the metal retaining clip seemed a lot looser against the new clutch fork with the spaced fork pivot ball. My fear was that this clip would either come loose while reinstalling the transmission onto the engine or while driving. The supplier of the DC Stage III+ clutch kit assured me that the looseness was OK and it should not cause a problem during reassembly or while driving. I hope he is right.

 

[rocketeer928]

Pressure Plate, Clutch, Flywheel, and Rear Main Seal Removal

Removed the six bolts from the Valeo pressure plate and clutch with a 10-mm, 12-point socket.

Using the VW 3067 tool to hold the flywheel in place (not pictured), removed the Valeo flywheel with a 17-mm socket.

When I installed the Valeo clutch and flywheel in July 2008, I considered changing the rear main seal. However, since it was not leaking at the time, I chickened out. This time, I decided to change the rear main seal with the one I had ordered back in 2008, since my Jetta TDI has about 84,000 miles on it and I didn’t want a leak to develop shortly after installing the new DC Stage III+ clutch and flywheel kit.

Removed the oil through the dipstick hole with a Pela 6000 extractor, so that I could reuse the oil. Removed the six bolts on the face and two lower bolts holding the rear main seal with a 10-mm socket. Carefully pried the old rear main seal, mostly with my fingers. Cleaned up the area where the rear main seal sits with a sponge scrubby, including the leftover sealant.

Installing the new rear main seal turned out to be a maddening, steam coming out of my ears day! So, here is what happened.

Carefully prepared the new rear main seal by putting a non-hardening gasket sealant on its bottom and corners. There was already a seal on the face side. Once I got the gasket sealant on and let it get tacky, I quickly went about reinstalling the bolts. The six facing bolts went on with no problem because the threads are in the engine block. The problem arose when I tried to install the two bottom bolts through the oil pan. The bolts are 7-mm and they just would not go in. I tried and tried and TRIED. I even started doing some re-threading. Nothing worked. After ranting and raving, I discovered that the threads within the bottom of the rear main seal were not 7 mm, but perhaps rather 6 mm. I had no clue that the threads would not be the same, and why would I? If you purchase the correct part, it should just go on. BUT, NOOOOOOOO! Grrr!!!

So, I had to take the rear main seal off again because by this time I had ruined its bottom threads. When I tried to get the new rear main seal off, of course the gasket sealant was pretty much set, and I ended up snapping the stupid thing in two pieces. Cheap aluminum! More anger! At this point, I had no alternative than to remove the oil pan. After the oil pan was removed, I was able to remove the rest of the rear main seal and chuck it into the garbage! More anger! I was really mad! I cleaned up the old gasket sealant on both the engine block and oil pan for when it was time for reassembly.

This all happened on Labor Day, so I had to wait until the next day to try and buy a new rear main seal. Tuesday morning, I went to our local VW stealership to get a new rear main seal and to make sure I had the correct bolts. Unfortunately, they didn’t have one in stock, so it was ordered and showed up the next day. Before I left the VW stealership that next day, I checked that the 7-mm bolts fit on the new rear main seal, and they did.

Placed a thin film of new oil on the rear main seal, and then carefully pushed the flange onto the crankshaft until the plastic guide sleeve was pushed out. With my fingers, I had to ensure that the Teflon seal was curled in the correct direction all the way around the crankshaft so that it wouldn’t leak; it didn’t just slip on easily. Secured the new rear main seal by installing the face bolts with a 10-mm socket to 15 Nm (11 ft-lb). The rear main seal has a gasket on the back of the flange.

Using Permatex Sensor Safe Ultra Copper High Temp RTV Silicone Gasket Maker for 4-cylinder, turbocharged, or performance engines (Part Nr. 81878), spread an even bead of gasket maker around the oil pan mating surface, keeping the gasket maker on the inside of all the bolt holes. Also, placed extra gasket maker on the bottom of the rear main seal flange. Quickly reinstalled the oil pan by diagonally installing the 20 bolts with a 10-mm socket, 5-mm Allen bit, and 10-mm short wrench to 15 Nm (11 ft-lb). Let the gasket material cure overnight prior to continuing or adding the oil.

Reinstalled the metal gasket on top of the rear main seal flange.

 

[rocketeer928]

DC Stage III+ Flywheel-Clutch-Pressure Plate Installation

Poured the oil I had extracted earlier back into the engine, adding a little bit of fresh oil too to compensate for the oil that I had previously spilled.

Installed the DC flywheel by aligning it to the crankshaft, aligning the offset bolt hole, and hand threading the six bolts until finger tight. Using the VW 3067 tool, tightened the flywheel bolts diagonally with a 17-mm socket to 60 Nm (44 ft-lb) plus ¼ of a turn. Inserted the clutch alignment tool.

Installed the clutch plate over the clutch alignment tool.

The pressure plate only installs on the flywheel dowels one way, so figured that out. When the proper alignment was found, installed the six bolts until finger tight. Using the clutch alignment tool to center the clutch plate, tightened the pressure plate bolts diagonally with a 9-mm, 12-point socket to 20 Nm (15 ft-lb).

 

[rocketeer928]

Transmission Reinstallation and VR6 Axles Installation

I discovered that it is much easier to reinstall the transmission into the engine bay if the bumper is removed. Removed the front bumper (See Post Nr. 5 & 6). By removing the bumper, I reinstalled the control arm before working on reinstalling the transmission. Slid the ball joint bracket back into the control arm and reinstalled the nut bracket by finger tightening the three bolts, ensuring that the bracket aligned with the paint I sprayed before removal. Tightened the three bolts with a 13-mm socket to 20 Nm (15 ft-lb) plus ¼ turn (no pictures). I’ll probably want to get a wheel alignment after all this work.

To reinstall the transmission into the engine bay, I was practically performing leg exercises while lying on my side. But, it worked. I placed the transmission on the block of notched-out wood I had made and then on my hydraulic jack. While laying on my left side, I simultaneously positioned the transmission up into the engine bay, aligned the transmission shaft onto the clutch, aligned the transmission on the two engine dowels, brought the power steering line underneath the transmission, and raised the jack with my right leg. It was quite a sight to see, but amazingly it worked! Once the transmission was flush with the engine, I hand tightened the six transmission-to-engine bolts. Tightened the bolts diagonally with a 16-mm socket to 60 Nm (44 ft-lb) and an 18-mm socket to 80 Nm (59 ft-lb). My hands were full, so no pictures.

Reinstalled the ground strap to the top transmission combination bolt with a 13-mm socket to 20 Nm (15 ft-lb).

Reinstalled the side transmission mount bracket with three new stretch bolts and a 16-mm socket to 50 Nm (37 ft-lb) plus ¼ turn.

Raised the transmission and engine so that the side transmission mount bracket mated flush with the transmission mount on the frame. Tightened two new stretch bolts and an 18-mm socket to 100 Nm (74 ft-lb). Removed the hydraulic jack and engine support.

To install the driver’s side VR6 axle, I first had to remove the stabilizer connecting link. Once the VR6 axle’s spline was loosely installed within the wheel and the axle nut was hand tightened, reinstalled the stabilizer connecting link with a 16-mm socket and wrench to 15 Nm (11 ft-lb).

Turned the driver’s side 108-mm drive flange until it matched up with the CV joint bolt holes. After applying Blue Thread Locker, installed diagonally six new flange-to-axle bolts with a 10-mm triple square bit first to 10 Nm (8 ft-lb) and then to 70 Nm (52 ft-lb).

I should have slipped the 108-mm passenger’s side drive flange into place while I was reinstalling the transmission into the engine bay, but I forgot. So, with a little struggling, I managed to get the drive flange past the VR6 passenger’s side axle and into the transmission.

Using a screwdriver to push against the heavy spring of the 108-mm drive flange and another screwdriver to hold the assembly still, tightened the center bolt with a 5-mm Allen bit to 25 Nm (18 ft-lb). No grease is placed within the flange, as it is not needed with the enclosed CV joints of the VR6 axles.

Disengaged the brake pedal by removing the homemade stick, and turned the passenger’s side wheel until the CV joint bolt holes matched up with the passenger’s side 108-mm drive flange. Installed the spare tire on the driver’s side wheel with a few lug bolts to keep the drive flange from moving while tightening. After applying Blue Thread Locker, installed diagonally six new flange-to-axle bolts with a 10-mm triple square bit first to 10 Nm (8 ft-lb) and then to 70 Nm (52 ft-lb).

Reinstalled the front bumper.

Tightened both axle lock nuts in the following manner:

• Installed the spare tire with a few lug bolts tightened firmly and lowered the car
• Tightened the axle lock nut with a 30-mm, 12-point socket to 200 Nm (148 ft-lb)
• Using the breaker bar and long pipe, loosened the axle lock nut ½ turn (180°)
• Turned the wheel and tire ½ turn (180°)
• Tightened the axle lock nut to 50 Nm (37 ft-lb)
• Tightened an additional 1/6 turn (60°) with the breaker bar and long pipe

 

[rocketeer928]

Transmission: Putting Everything Back Together

Reinstalled the dogbone pendulum mount. Tightened the two new stretch bolts that go into the sub-frame with a 13-mm socket to 20 Nm (15 ft-lb) plus an additional ¼ turn, and tightened the two new stretch bolts that go into the transmission with a 16-mm socket to 40 Nm (30 ft-lb) plus an additional ¼ turn.

Refilled the transmission with 2 liters of Lubromoly Gear Oil, and reinstalled the fill hole bolt with a 17-mm Allen bit until tight.

Reinstalled the white plastic passenger’s side CV joint heat shield by tightening the two bolts with a 16-mm socket to 35 Nm (26 ft-lb).

Carefully reinstalled the green rubber boot of the slave cylinder into the top of the transmission onto the clutch fork; making sure it was straight. Tightened the two bolts with a 13-mm socket to 25 Nm (18 ft-lb).
Reinstalled the black transmission-to-frame support bar by tightening the two bolts and nut with a 13-mm socket and wrench to 25 Nm (18 ft-lb).
Slid the starter motor into place onto the transmission, and tightened the two combination bolts with an 11/16-inch, long impact socket to 65 Nm (48 ft-lb).

Placed all of the cables above the starter motor and transmission back into the plastic cable bracket.

Reconnected the starter motor’s negative terminal connector by pushing home the spring connectors.

Placed the starter motor’s positive terminal wire onto the terminal bolt, and reinstalled the nut with a 13-mm socket to 13 Nm (10 ft-lb). Reinstalled the plastic terminal cap.

Reinstalled the large connector into the top of the cable bracket.
Placed the cable bracket onto the upper starter motor combination bolt, and tightened the nut with a 13-mm socket until secure. Reinstalled the power steering bracket onto the lower starter motor combination bolt, and tightened the nut with a 13-mm socket until secure.

Reinstalled the two power steering line clamps (front and rear) with a 13-mm socket until tight.

Underneath the car, reinstalled the connector for the vehicle speed sensor at the rear of the transmission.

Lightly lubricated the white plastic sleeves of the gate selector cable shaft with molybdenum grease, and inserted them. Reinstalled the gate selector cable shaft into place.

Reinstalled the black shifter cable bracket on top of the transmission by tightening the three bolts with a 13-mm socket to 25 Nm (18 ft-lb).
Placed the power steering hose back onto its clip on top of the black shifter cable bracket.

Reinstalled the connector for the reverse light indicator.

Placed the short shifter onto the spline, while aligning the thicker spot on the spline with the appropriate slot on the short shift bracket. Reinstalled the nut and washer with a 13-mm socket to 25 Nm (18 ft-lb).

Reinstalled the circlip onto the gate selector cable shaft, making sure it locked into place.

Reinstalled the air box, and tightened the rear bolt with a 10-mm socket until secure. Reconnected the rear vacuum line.

Reinstalled the accordion air intake hose to the air box with a T-bolt clamp, which was tightened with a 7/16-inch socket.

Reconnected the MAF air sensor connector.

Reinstalled the battery platform into the engine bay, tightening the four bolts with a 10-mm socket until secured.

Placed the battery on top of the platform, ensuring that the bottom rear lip of the battery gets tucked into the correct position within the platform. Not doing so will cause the battery to be elevated and the cable tray to not sit flush (guess how I know this?). Reinstalled the front battery bracket and tightened the bolt with a 13-mm socket to 25 Nm (18 ft-lb).

Reinstalled the TDI heater bracket onto the battery platform using a bolt, two washers, and a nylon nut with a 7/16-inch socket and wrench until tight.
Reconnected the air box to the battery platform with a 10-mm socket until tight.

Reinstalled the small plastic piece that hold the rear cables up against the battery platform, and reinstalled cable tray holder on top of the battery. Reconnected the cable tray onto this holder.

Reinstalled the negative and positive battery terminals with a 10-mm socket until tight.

Reinstalled the battery cover and driver’s side light cover with two Philips screws.

Reinstalled the driver’s side plastic fender well and splash guard by tightening the 12 screws with a Torx-25 screwdriver.

Reinstalled the driver’s and passenger’s side engine splash guards by tightening the star washers with the long screwdriver.
Reinstalled the front wheels, lowered the car, and tightened the lug bolts to 120 Nm (89 ft-lb).

Before starting the car, I engaged all of the gears, including reverse, and pressed the clutch to feel if things seemed normal.

Started the car in neutral and looked for leaks from the oil pan, rear main seal via the transmission, and drive flange seals; I did not notice any leaks. Test drove the car for about 3 miles. So far, no oil leaks from the new rear main seal or oil pan reinstallation. The clutch chattered a little bit taking off in first, but I guess that's not too surprising during the initial break-in period. The break-in period is stated to be 500 miles.

At this point, I parked the car and went off to Deutschland for a week for my work. Hadn’t been back there for almost two years, and I miss living there a lot (See Post Nr. 1).

I returned from Deutschland and checked under the car for any oil leaks, and there were none. So, I reinstalled the Panzer skid plate and bumper skirting. Now I’m on vacation for a week and a half, doing things around home (like writing this), and I haven’t had a chance or reason to drive around. Oh, well!