Scratcher
Veteran Member
So I went the Fluid Film route. What I am wondering now is whether I should close up that open area or leave it open?
Can't seem to locate Permafilm in the US. Some outlets don't ship to the US either!!Fluid film has worked on oceon going ships since the 1940’s, if you weren’t aware. Do a little research on it. Discounting it as a serious option is a mistake in my opinion, and experience. Nothing can come between it and the metal. There’s also a product called permafilm that can be applied over it, that I never tried. Fluid film, better than paint. All I can say, up to you to accept or reject it.
Yeah, I'm going to and fro in my head about it. I will leave it open this winter and check it again in April or May when it warms upI'd leave it open so you can flush out accumulated road salt and gunk. Then when it's dry, hit it with the fluid film again.
If you close it up, you will trap all that in there, and it will be harder to retreat completely with FF. I've been spraying FF on the rusty ends of my rockers twice a year, just before winter and again in the spring after washing the areas. But I only have a few inches on each rocker.
In essence, I agree with you. I have a friend in the body work business and he said exactly the same thing. Nothing stops it. All you can do is delay the process. He did tell me that he found cheap engine oil, sprayed on, to be the most effective. He removes door and tailgate/trunk panels and sprays oil onto the metal.Some people here seem to think fluid film is some kind of miracle elixir for your car. I'm in the rust belt and can attest to the accuracy of the term car cancer; it's really what it is, and fluid film lies somewhere in-between polishing a turd and putting lipstick on a pig as a remedy. It's a good addition to an actual repair, but it's NOT a repair by itself.
I suggested panel adhesive and rivets earlier in the thread. Why not consider that? By avoiding welding, if you remove the rust and coat everything with an epoxy primer, inside and out, prior to closing up the hole, you'll ensure that you have the most rust proof solution since there won't be any burn through or imperfect welds. This would be an actual legit repair; joining panels this way is actually not that uncommon in car manufacturing today.
Fluid Film certainly won't fix anything. But a good coating of it on bare rusty metal will slow down the rust. Looking at the pics again, all the metal up under the rockers is rusty-crusty. If that was all cut out, you'd need way more than a replacement rocker panel.Some people here seem to think fluid film is some kind of miracle elixir for your car. I'm in the rust belt and can attest to the accuracy of the term car cancer; it's really what it is, and fluid film lies somewhere in-between polishing a turd and putting lipstick on a pig as a remedy. It's a good addition to an actual repair, but it's NOT a repair by itself.
I suggested panel adhesive and rivets earlier in the thread. Why not consider that? By avoiding welding, if you remove the rust and coat everything with an epoxy primer, inside and out, prior to closing up the hole, you'll ensure that you have the most rust proof solution since there won't be any burn through or imperfect welds. This would be an actual legit repair; joining panels this way is actually not that uncommon in car manufacturing today.
Friend of mines dad used to do that. He’d pull on a dirt and spray it down. It would take a few weeks of cleaning windows. He got the idea from working at consumers power where they did that to their trucks. This was in the ‘60’s.50 years of used engine oil
I suppose you could say that yesSo you have a well preserved Cummins??
Crank seal is pretty common one.I suppose you could say that yes
I recently fixed the crank seal and pan gasket leaks though so now it will start rotting away lol
I use used motor oil on my 2008 Sierra rcsb for rust protection and body is pretty clean. I use mixture of wax and transmission oil for my 2017 f150 rcsb and seems to work well so far.50 years of used engine oil