Or, after liberally spraying the fluid film, you could pop rivet sheet metal to cover and then paint that. Best if you left a way to respray more fluid film up in there every year or so.Okay, so I ordered fluid film. Only drawback is that I cannot paint over it. So that whole area (In the pics) would need to stay open.
They don't check tires brakes, and lights anymore?Lol the only inspections here in NJ are for the gas cap and to make sure your CEL works and hasn’t been disabled…..the rest of the car could be falling off , but as long as the CEL works……your good to go..
I would probably create more problems than cure them!
then sell the mig welder afterward
on both my 73, and 79 the frames were needled scaled and wire wheeled before application. No heavy rust was left on either frame. I was told years ago, heavy rust and scale needs removed, as well as properly de-greased before application. I've never seen or heard of a product that you just "paint over rust" and it works properly. Some sort of prep work is always required.Well from my reading on the subject a few years back it seems there are VERY mixed reviews on the stuff. A quick google search brings up a ton of recent reports of failure as well. Not sure how you’ve not heard of this.
Maybe it is just super picky about prep, but I wouldn’t waste my time on it from the horror stories I’ve heard. Especially not as advertised “Paint Over Rust.”
When it goes wrong, whether that be a result of incorrect prep or not (I’ve heard it both ways) it fails big time.
I'm glad we're on the same page.The Fluid Film is good for coating a surface you don’t want to have rust. For the fiberglass fill repair, you still need Corroseal, Rust Mort or a similar product prior to applying the filler.
I got lots of inspiration from this guy’s clips. You can at least get a sense of how to approach it:
Depends on if you want a band aid fix or a root cause solution. It's up to you how far you want to go with this. The options out there have been given.I'm overwhelmed with options now
The only real solution is to cut everything out and weld on a fabricated steel plate. Everything else seems to be a compromise
Sounds like a plan.You can always do something later if you make up your mind to do so. The fluid film will stop the rust in the meantime. You may find it good enough, as the great philosopher Medeocraties would say
Wow. Here the vehicle would be classified as unroadworthy and the police would stop you. One could face serious fines and also the insurance is invalid. Any rust spot more than 1/4 - 1/2" is recorded in the roadworthy test. This is part of the state policy to get people to buy new German cars. Even if one adds a spacer on the wheels that has not been officially approved (and one can prove it when the police do a control) a car is classified as "unroadworthy". All the EGR deletes etc. people write about lead to mega-stress here...
Anyway, I would treat the rust with a rust stopper in the hope of stopping it spreading. And then either leave it, or use it as a practice welding project when it's convenient.
As people wrote, foam is *really bad* because after a time it shrinks and water just sits in between the foam and metal/rust, making it worse.
On a side note, is it safe to assume that most cars still on the road in Europe don't have rocker rust this bad? I've been wanting to buy a TDI on a future trip to Europe and bring it back here after it's 25 years old, but my friend in Sweden stated that 20+ year old cars all have bad rust/rocker damage.Yes
Yes, I know. I'm originally from Scotland. With the annual MOT inspection, it would not have gotten this far without cost prohibitive welding at an earlier stage. Now I live in the land of the free where moth and rust are free to roam wherever they will!
I don't know about the rest of Europe but in the UK you would never see a car like this with a current MOT and tax disc on the road. Testimony to this is that you can buy cars at 3 years old fairly cheaply compared to the US.On a side note, is it safe to assume that most cars still on the road in Europe don't have rocker rust this bad? I've been wanting to buy a TDI on a future trip to Europe and bring it back here after it's 25 years old, but my friend in Sweden stated that 20+ year old cars all have bad rust/rocker damage.
In the EU it's difficult to keep a car on public roads in such a state, so generally you can assume this - but there are garages that sell cars and do their own 'state roadworthiness tests', and they are more interested in selling than road safety. Occasionally you get cars on the market where an older person has died and the car has been sitting in a garage for the last 20 years for a very good price. Countries like Scotland and Sweden are more of a sea climate and there is more salt in the air - cars in the middle/south of Germany suffer much less rust (from about 200 miles from the sea), although they put mega amounts of salt on the road in Winter.On a side note, is it safe to assume that most cars still on the road in Europe don't have rocker rust this bad? I've been wanting to buy a TDI on a future trip to Europe and bring it back here after it's 25 years old, but my friend in Sweden stated that 20+ year old cars all have bad rust/rocker damage.