Retrofitting ACC to Mk7 TDI

[Nuje]

In my never-ending (it would seem) quest to upgrade as many systems as possible on my car, and so I don't get lulled into treating the cruise control in my car the same as my wife's A3 that has ACC and lane assist (oh, who are we kidding; of course, it's just to mess around and figure stuff out), I've dug into retrofitting adaptive cruise control into my 2015 Mk7 Canadian Highline (SEL) GSW.

What got me started on this was the fact that my car had front radar ("Front Assist") already installed in the bumper, so maybe with some coding and the proper buttons on my steering wheel, I'd get ACC.

(Stop laughing; of course it wasn't going to be that easy).

Turns out, the "flat" radar (medium range radar - MRR) that came on my car is all-but-impossible to get working as an ACC sensor, but really early Mk7 (like 2013-2014 Euros) came with a more expensive radar (long-range radar - LRR) that is bulb-shaped (same as on my wife's A3).

Swapping in the new LRR is easy enough (two 10mm bolts; same connector), but the bigger issue is that a new ABS module is required - one that can be coded to actively control the brakes (I would assume).

And that new ABS module has a 46-pin connector, not the 38-pin connector that is in my car.
And on top of that, one can't even simply move the wires/pins from my old 38-pin connector to a new 46-pin connector (which is cheap enough - like $30), because the pins are shaped differently.

So - the list of parts now looks like this:

• LRR (round radar; part # 5Q0907541G) - found for $150 on eBay (component protection will need to be removed)
• rear wheel ABS sensors (part#: WHT003864A) - ~$90ea for OEM; $15 from China)
• ABS module (with 46pins) part # recommended to me was 3Q0 907 379 AB- similar price point of ~$150 (if you can get the wiring pigtail for the ABS module, GRAB THAT!)
• Assuming not, a new 46-pin connector (part # 4M0 998 046) - $30
• 20 wires have to swap over, so you need 10 repair wires - part number 000 979 046E ($7each, or if you're in Canada, $30 each (?!!?)
  Cheaper alternative here would be to just by the connector, sans repair wire; those can be had for ~$1ea - eBay.
• Steering wheel with ACC buttons (I already had those as they came with a MFSW I'd purchased from Europe for the paddle shifters (Canadian models did not come with paddle shifters)

References:
mqb.pl - this guy made me think this was possible; not quite enough detail, though, to allow me to realize how involved this was going to be
Ross-tech retrofit thread
(I also have a thread there - same username - where I'm asking questions figuring all of this out)

 

[Nuje]

So, the process as best I can figure right now is as follows:

• Install the round radar (easy-peasy - done it a couple times already); get CP removed by dealer
• Swap the bezel / ACC buttons onto my existing MFSW (having done this a few times now, I have this down to ~20minutes)
• Install the rear wheel ABS sensors (at this point, you might have to do some re-coding of Module 03 - ABS with VCDS; on my car, it was changing Byte26 from "00" to "50" - YMMV)
• Wire up the new connector with the new pins (this is the step I'm holding at right now as NFW I was going to pay $300 for 10 repair wires; awaiting shipment from Aaron and the boys at CascadeGerman)
• Get at the ABS module in the car, disconnect the harness and brake lines; out with the old, in with the new
• Probably cut the wires, splice them into the repair wires (Ross-tech forum user "downtime" has a spreadsheet detailing which wire from "old" goes to which slot in "new").
• Connect everything back together, follow the coding instructions from XiGaCo's pdf)
• Find a good deity to say a quick prayer too...and fire it up.

 

[JM Popaleetus]

The flat radar works up to 160KMH (99MPH). The round radar is good for 210KMH (130MPH). Source here.

Frankly, there is no way in hell I’d ever use ACC at those speeds. So your stock radar should work fine.

Here is a thread if you want to get real adventurous and install Lane Keeping Assist: https://www.golfmk7.com/forums/showthread.php?t=46696

And here is a guy that can enable ACC remotely: https://www.golfmk7.com/forums/showthread.php?t=49365

 

[Nuje]

And here is a guy that can enable ACC remotely: https://www.golfmk7.com/forums/showthread.php?t=49365

Pretty sure that his capabilities are to remove CP and (somehow) get around the fact that you can't buy FeC's for cars to retrofit something like ACC with the flat radar; if your VIN didn't come spec'd with ACC, the (flat) MRR cannot be added after the fact by the dealer. doctor (the user at golfmk7.com who says he's done it) seems to have figured out a way around it, though. But it's certainly not widespread. The cost he quoted to me was around €500.

With all of that said, I gotta think that we'd still need a new ABS module - one that has the electrical / mechanical capabilities to control speed by activating the rear brakes without your foot anywhere near the brake pedal.

 

[740GLE]

sounds like after all this work you'll need to zone out with ACC on the highway.

 

[Nuje]

Ran into a bit of a snag with the wiring; before I start cutting into wires (literally), I'm trying to suss out whether or not the fact that I don't have wires for a "G608 - Vacuum Sensor" in my current wiring harness is going to bite me.

(Edit: It did not. )

 

[Nuje]

Just to update on the process: Most importantly, it is done. And WORKS!!
I probably came closer to punting on this endeavour than on any previous repair or retrofit, but in the end (as my wife always points out to me when I come into the house and say, "Well, it's totally f***ed now"), I figured it out along with the help of a few very kind and generous folks over on the Ross-tech forums.

Parts list (as outlined in first post, with a couple of updates):

• LRR (round radar) - found for $150 on eBay (component protection will need to be removed by dealer; figure at least an hour for that, maybe 1.5hrs)
• rear wheel ABS sensors (part#: WHT003864A) - ~$90ea for OEM; $15 from China)
• ABS module (with 46pins) part # recommended to me was 3Q0 907 379 AB- similar price point of ~$150 (if you can get the wiring pigtail for the ABS module, GRAB THAT!)
• Assuming not, a new 46-pin connector (part # 4M0 998 046) - $30
• 15 wires have to swap over; 12 of them are 0.5mm (three are actually 0.35mm, but you use the same repair wire) so you need 6 repair wires - part number 000 979 046E ($7each, or if you're in Canada, $30 each (?!!?)
  
  [*]Three of the wires moving over are larger (2 x 4.0mm and one 2.5mm), and you also need to fill an additional ground spot in the wiring harness, so you need a 4.0mm repair wire (000 979 308 E) - one end will be for the extra ground, the other will be to replace the female end of the 2.5mm wire; the third "large" wire (red/yellow) can simply be moved without alteration​
• Steering wheel with ACC buttons (I already had those as they came with a MFSW I'd purchased from Europe for the paddle shifters (Canadian models did not come with paddle shifters)
• 1.5-2.0L of brake fluid. Remember that the Mk7 specs the DOT4 "LV" (low viscosity). I went with OEM from dealer just to be sure I got the right stuff

1. Prevent LOTS of hydraulic fluid from oozing out: Set something to press the brake pedal (a 2x4 jammed between seat and pedal works), open the LR and LF bleed screws, press the brake pedal at least another 60mm, then close the LR and LF bleed screws; leave the brake pedal in that position (i.e., do not remove the 2x4 or whatever you have holding the pedal down)
2. Disconnect negative terminal of battery
3. Lift up the front end and take off the front wheels (you don't strictly need to, but it'll make life so much easier).
4. If you at all can, lift up the rear of the car, too, just to give yourself easier access to everything because...
5. ...you have to disconnect the front exhaust pipe, part of which involves undoing an exhaust clamp that's about ⅔ of the way to the back of the car.
6. Front exhaust pipe comes off fairly easily: Two 16mm nuts on that exhaust clamp; two 13mm bolts on the front exhaust hanger, one 5mm bolt that secures a T-bolt-type clamp which attaches the front exhaust pipe to the DPF outlet.
7. Slide the exhaust pipe back a bit. You need to do all of this because the DPF is blocking any chance of getting the ABS module out through the top of the engine
8. Disconnect the ABS connector / wire harness, there's plenty of wire there to pull it top-side out of the way
   
   
9. Remove ABS pump: This is where things start to get ugly. With the DPF, there's about 2.5" of clearance to get your and between the upper cowling and DPF to get at the ABS pump. If you've got Popeye-esque forearms, you might want to look for a scrawny assistant to help with this.
   
   
   
   You also need a short 11mm open-end wrenches, as the "normal" length one I have didn't have enough space to move in that tight space.
   Undo the six hydraulic lines - 11mm wrench - and cap them. Two of the lines are M10x1.0; the other four are M12. Bentley says to label them, but I think you'd have a hard time mixing them up.
10. The ABS pump just sits on three triangularly-positioned knobbed "posts"; the pump is attached to a plastic mounting bracket that has three rubber "holes"; it just pulls straight up (but keep in mind that you have six steel hydraulic lines fighting you, so it's not quite that easy; and oh - "do not bend the hydraulic lines" says the manual (good luck with that!))
    
    
11. Cap all of the lines and plug all of the holes best you can; I used vacuum caps on the hydraulic lines and they seemed to do the trick
12. Wiggle, rotate, twist, push the ABS module down against the firewall. It fits, but it is tight. Then get under the car and pull it out through the exhaust tunnel beside the exhaust pipe; it won't come out from where the drive shaft inserts into the tranny
13. Same thing with getting the new one in there - start it from below, then grab from above.
14. If you thought it was a PITA getting the old ABS pump off the posts, it's even more fun getting the new one on (remember "do not bend the hydraulic lines" - again, let me know how you make out with that)
15. Once you're secure on the three posts, start inserting the hydraulic lines.
    Pro tip: Undo the right-front hydraulic line inside the wheel well; I fought for literally hours trying to get the hydraulic lines inserted squarely and not cross-threaded; then removed that line and within 20 minutes had all six lines snugged up
16. Start with the hydraulic lined nearest to the firewall. It is by far the most cumbersome to work with. DO NOT USE A WRENCH until you are absolutely 110% sure it is threaded straight. I was cross-threaded on that one line at least six times before I got it square
17. Once that line against the firewall is in, get that RF hydraulic line into the ABS module; and THEN re-attach it inside the wheel well. Trust me.
18. Once those two are in, the next four aren't too much of an issue.

Wiring.
Here are the wires we're working with:

Get a good wire crimper and use good heat shrink connectors like these from penclnck. If you paid $5 for 100...they're not "good".
Dealer charges $5ea; penclnck basically $1ea

You're going to cut your existing wires and replace them with the built up connector you put together with the repair wires hanging out. Label the repair wires (I put a diagram number as well as color(s) on a piece of tape on each wire)
Seal the unused holes on the back of your wiring connector. There are plugs you can buy, but I just smeared non-running clear sealant on the back and around the wires.
Here's my new connector, before labels and before sealant:

Wiring diagram (I hope it's OK to post this; if not, please let me know).

The one thing that threw me for a bit was that the diagram (even one drawn from erWin specific for my TDI) shows a "G608 Vacuum Sensor" connection - three wires. The thing that said "go ahead" to me, though, is my 38-pin harness was supposed to have these as well, so I figured that if my 38-pin harness didn't have, I wouldn't need them on the 46-pin harness as well. Further reading (after I'd passed the point of no - or at least very difficult - return) confirmed that the G608 is present only on the gas-engine cars.

And then....coding.
(To be continued)

 

[Nuje]

LRR (Long Range Radar) Installation:
My car (2015 GSW) came with "Front Assist" already installed, with the hardware being the MRR (medium-range), which is flat-faced; it functioned to simply scream at me if I was approaching something too quickly, and the opportunity to stop was quickly diminishing.

But, no autonomous braking (that I was aware of), and no ability to re-code this to work with ACC.

With the MRR installed, it's just held by three knobbed pins that pop into rubber sockets on a mounting bracket. The mounting bracket is secured by two 10mm bolts. You can either simply pull the MRR directly out (possibly bending the bracket if it doesn't let go easily), or unscrew the 10mm bolts. First time I did it, I took off the bumper cover, but subsequently, I just removed the license plate and its own plastic mounting piece, and un-did the bolts. Don't drop them, otherwise you might be pulling off the bumper cover. Wiring harness at the front radar needs no modification.
This is what the LRR looks like installed (not on my car):

MRR (with bumper off):

Mounting pins:

ABS Wheel sensors installation:
Only the rear wheel sensors are replaced. Same part number for both sides. One 5mm allen-head bolt holds them in. If you ever replaced the ABS sensors on a Mk4 (and have adequately recovered from the associated PTSD)....this is nothing like those. A little pushing and wiggling and they come out. Easy-peasy.
Grey - new ones; black = OEM

Coding (particularly the ABS module):
A couple of basics to get out of the way.
First of all, when you install a new (as in different) ABS module, your ABS coding becomes 30 bytes worth of zeroes, and your old coding will not work.
If you want to “trial-and-error” your way through 30bytes, there are roughly 4.2x10^23 permutations (or a few billions of billions of years worth, if you could try one per second). So, you probably don't want to go that route.

Each byte is represented by eight bits, each of which can either be on/yes (1) or off/no (0).

Each byte, then, can be viewed in VCDS’s Long Coding Helper as eight digits, each digit being a 0 or 1. The eight bits are number 0-7.

Now, the confusing part (at least for a non-coder like me): bit 7 is the left-most bit. Then 6-5-4-3-2-1-0 in sequence going rightward.

Thankfully, much smarter people than I figured stuff out, and user Somnus over at Ross-Tech has put together this Google Sheet which provides his best guesses (based on some reviewing a lot of ABS codings) as to the function of each byte and corresponding values.

Note: As pointed out by Somnus, you're on your own here; the information provided is merely some educated guesses. I'll offer what worked on my car, but if you decide to try this and follow what I did and it totally bricks your car...that's on you.

So, the good news is that the first 22 bytes (Byte0 to Byte21, inclusive) should line up fairly closely with what you had in your OEM ABS coding. Many of the bytes are related to the last six digits of your VIN, and the binary inverse of those.

Non-pro tip: If, like me, you barely understand bits and bytes and converting, get yourself a spreadsheet and get comfortable with these two formulas:​

=BIN2HEX(cell)​

=HEX2BIN(cell,8)​

"cell" is the cell that has the value you want to convert; the "8" in the second formula ensures that you see all eight ones/zeroes)​

There's a .pdf floating around out there by "Xagico" that lists a pile of different retrofits and mods that can be done on the Mk7; it has a lot of the coding changes to be made. So that's where I started.

In ABS coding, however, the recommendations on Byte24 (F4 or F8) were not accepted by my car. (I'm guessing this is because Xagico is Spanish(?), and the European cars came with some hardware as standard that were not offered on our cars).
Anyway, using the Somnus's spreadsheet, I was able to calculate that Byte24 on my car should be either 16 or 18; I tried 16 there and it worked. Again, YMMV, so do the math for yourself.

Next, I changed Byte26 to F0 - if you install the new rear wheel ABS sensors first and continue to drive your car without making any other changes, you'll probably have a pile of errors on your display. Change this byte and the errors should disappear literally as you're sitting there.
(Xagico's pdf said to change this to 50, and when I had my just the wheel sensors in my car - without swapping the ABS module - "50" made the errors go away. But once the new module was in the car, while I didn't have any errors, ACC would not work. Helpful user at ross-tech forum suggested to try "F0"....and just like that, everything, ACC worked. Not sure how he arrived at F0, but I'm glad he did.

Lastly in Byte29, Xagico said to change it to 39, but that didn't work for me. A user over at Ross-tech's forums helping me out suggested 22 - and that one worked.

Bleeding Brakes / ABS:
This one had me stumped for a while because I couldn't get it to work in ABS (it's nothing like in the old Mk4 where you just go to BASIC SETTINGS in 03-ABS and hit GO and it tells you what to do. There are things that look like what I need to do (e.g., Fill/Bleed Brake System),

but it asked for inputs (a one- to three-digit number) and nothing I tried for an input worked.

So, I made my first real use of ODIS - and if you've never used ODIS before, send a letter of thanks to Uwe and the guys at Ross-Tech. It is SO cumbersome and slow. Even the techs at my local VW dealership like VCDS better because of how quick and concise it is.

Anyway, ABS BASIC SETTINGS in ODIS guided me through the ABS cycling, brake bleeding, etc.

Clearing Errors:
Even after you get the ABS coding figure out, you're still going to have a pile of errors (e.g. ESC, tire pressure monitoring, etc.)
Usually, I'd just take the car for a drive, make sure the steering wheel gets moved all the way right/left, and it all resets itself.
Not this time.

In ODIS, I had to do BASIC SETTINGS in the module 44 - Electric Steering Assist. Basically, the car needs to re-learn where centre is. You put the SW at exact centre, then follow prompts to turn all the way to the right, all the way to the left, then back to centre. Can't remember the exact process, but ODIS is fairly hand-holdy, so it makes sense.

And literally, as soon as that was set, the errors just immediately disappeared from the cluster and infotainment unit.

I think that about wraps it up. I'll update if anything else springs to mind, and answer questions best I can.

 

[Cuzoe]

I'm very upset by the lack of responses to this thread, haha. In about a month, if you don't mind, I will add my experience to this thread. I will be retrofitting ACC to a Golf S TDI though.

I think all the hard parts are covered here already, thankfully. In addition to what is here I will be buying the support bracket and front grill to allow installation of the LRR, running all harnesses, and replacing both BCM and Gateway with the "highline" versions.

 

[Nuje]

I get the feeling people read this and go "yeah - no thanks!"
COURAGE people!!!

I think that'll be a great addition, Cuzoe - good to have the full zero-to-hero retrofit with getting the front radar-mounting bracket and BCM / Gateway modules added as well.

 

[DivineChaos]

yeahhhh. cool but way to involved for me. good job figuring it all out

 

[Cuzoe]

Looking forward to the car yelling at me to downshift [emoji16]. BCM will be installed and coded by dealer on Tuesday. I'm hesitant about having them do the Gateway (as opposed to asking Jack do it remotely) due to the added FECs I have for MIB II and Nav. What the dealer quotes mean I may have them give it a shot anyway oh, I suppose I could always ask Jack to fix it, haha.

Now I'm waiting for parts to come do this retrofit and the lane assist camera. Question, minimally related to this retrofit... any idea for getting the existing mirror mount off of the windshield?

I'm thinking heat, but not sure how much. I do have a heat gun with digital temp control (from 120°-1200°F) so I can go up slowly until it loosens. Then it's just a matter of removing the remaining adhesive. And ordering that Sugru you mentioned. Any better ideas before I give mine a shot?


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[Nuje]

Oy - heat on a big sheet of glass like that scares me. How good are you with a dremel cut-off wheel?

Honestly, your guess is as good as mine with removing that mount. My look at them looks like the adhesive / cement is more of a cured product than something that would loosen with heat. Think of hitting JB Weld with heat - does that do anything?

And with heat, you risk the glass expanding too much in a concentrated area, resulting in a big KRRAAAAACK! My plan of action would be to literally chip away at it - see what kind of tools I could get working at it from the sides.

 

[Cuzoe]

Well now... if the window cracks then I will replace it with the proper glass, which will be necessary if I can't get the existing mount off anyway. I won't be attempting this until all parts are on hand. Got things coming in from all over the world via Ebay/Ali/VW/etc. I'm hoping to get lucky and find the LRR at a decent price. Been searching Ebay daily but can't find them for under $350ish USD. Looks like you found quite the deal at around $150.

I'll either save some money if I can get the mount off or I will make absolutely sure I have to spend the money to replace the windshield, haha.

 

[Somnus]

Great retrofit Nuje! and apologies for taking me so long to see this.
I'm glad that my spreadsheet was able to help you with your retrofit. It's good to see it being used by the community.
Now I just need to get the parts together to do the ABS swap myself

Cuzoe: The adhesive on those mounts is a PITA, so I wish you luck! I ended up changing the glass for my camera retrofit.

 

[thundershorts]

If you crack your golf s w/shield replace it with a far superior one made by st gobain with a grey rather than green tint. You will notice immediately all the side distortion goes away and color rendition is greatly improved. One of my best upgrades.

 

[Cuzoe]

I'll keep that in mind, couldn't remember what manufacturer people always recommended but that's the one. My front windshield has had 50% tint since a week after I bought the car, didn't even know it had a green tint from factory, haha.

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[Nuje]

The windshield I ended up with - which doesn't fit the camera I was planning to install (long story; assumptions and errors made by me and the glass place) - is made by Fuyao; I didn't know my previous windshield was so bad until I got this one installed. I was shocked at how much clearer everything looked.

Side note: Turns out, Fuyao is the subject of the Netflix (Academy Award-winning) documentary, American Factory.

 

[Cuzoe]

Finished ordering parts this weekend. Got absolutely hooked up by KyACRASH over on GolfMk7. Now I just have to wait for everything to get here. And I still need to contact Jack about replacing my Gateway. Do I dare have the dealership do it? The car is there right now, and the new (used) gateway is in fact boxed up in the back.

I ordered connector 4M0 998 046 for $8 which is great. The 20 pins for repair wire 000 979 046E (I will need one more than you, for clutch position sensor) and 10 pins for repair wire 000 979 308 E cost me another $35. Curiously I also see connector 4M0 998 046 A but it was about $40 everywhere I looked... any idea what could be different? Or just VAG with a random revision/price bump?

 

[Cuzoe]

Where did you pick up repair wires? And if you don't mind, about how much did they run you? I had ordered on eBay from a seller in Europe... Seller reached out and said their country is suspending flights even for postage, so no definite timetable for when they would ship.

Everything else except for the ABS pump has already shipped, tracked a lot of it today and it's already here in Los Angeles, should have it by end of week.

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[Nuje]

I got the repair wires from Aaron and the boys over at CascadeGerman.com. They didn't list them on the site so I called; they didn't have them in stock (not surprising), but they got a 10-pack in about a day and shipped them out to me (same price, IIRC - like $35USD; like I'd mentioned above, my dealer - who sells me stuff at barely above their cost - couldn't get them under $30 PER WIRE for me(!?)).
I received them - in Canada - in just under a week, which is pretty good cross-border shipping speed.

No idea on the revision to the ABS wiring harness housing - why one costs $8 and the revision/update is 5x the price.... ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

 

[Cuzoe]

What version of ODIS did you use? I am digging out whatever came with my VAS 5054 but I'm not sure what version it is, purchased a couple years ago.

I also got the new ABS Module connector yesterday. Does this connector have one of those purple "rails" to hold the small pins in?

 

[Nuje]

I don't have my VM with ODIS handy right now, but it's nothing super-new. 4.4.3 rings a bell (?).

As for the new connector, I don't remember if the new one had a purple "lock" or if it was just the white silicone seal that you have to thread the new wires through, and then clamp it down and it's held in place. If you didn't get one, then I'd say there isn't one.

The one you're taking out, though, DOES have the purple lock-bar - instead of sliding it all the way out, though, you just push it over like 1mm. While you're cutting most of the wires, you can re-purpose the big power leads (red/white, brown).

 

[Cuzoe]

Got it, there is a purple something I can see through a hole on one side of the connector, but as describe for the old connector it looks like it will move a couple millimeters at most in each direction. There is a hole on the other side that could be used to push it back but it certainly won't come out.

The version I have is 4.x.x so I'll be good I hope. Have an appointment with Jack in a few hours for the highline gateway... might ask him about performance monitor and driving profiles. Performance monitor still may not work due to the ECU firmware but it would be cool to see in a TDI. One of the other outfits that does remote programming said they could activate driving profiles on this car. I don't know but I wonder if the GTD had them.

Edit: I'm referring to driving modes, which I guess are also referred to as profiles; eco, normal, sport, individual... not to be confused with Driver Personalization (which I have the option for in my infotainment right now due to dealer not programming my new BCM properly)

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[Nuje]

Yeah - couldn't remember if there was that purple thing in the new one or not. But it certainly makes sense that there would be. And like I said, you just "click" it over 1-2mm at most. If you look through the empty holes, you can see the purple locking "fingers" slide in/out of view as you move that purple lock-bar.

Given that you have the MIB2 and (soon) Highline gateway, no reason you shouldn't be able to have the Performance monitor, ThinkBlue, and "Offroad" settings as well.

I didn't explicitly ask for them, but once I got my MIB2 installed and working, I have them.
Performance Monitor: Three gauges that can show turbo boost, oil temp, coolant temp, and g-force.

ThinkBlue: Basically shows you have efficiently you're driving - I've only ever glanced at it. Can't remember everything it shows besides fuel economy.

Offroad: Three gauges which you can choose to view (don't quote me - doing this from memory and I don't look at this one often)...steering angle, coolant temp, oil temp, ambient temp (?).

 

[Cuzoe]

Nice... I got Think Blue when I first went MIB II (non nav) and then got Off-road when I upgraded to nav, but maybe I could have enabled it before.

Think Blue is no longer allowed, per my wife. She thinks it's bad enough when driving my car flatout as compared to her car, let alone driving my car with efficiency in mind.

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[Cuzoe]

Nothing ever easy on a TDI S [emoji2367]. No can extended pins at the black connector outboard of the driver kick panel. Any other place I might find can extended?

Looks like I'll have to grab a temporary sub to Erwin and get the electrical drawings for my car. Then I may end up (be forced into) wiring from the gateway to the black plug. That will be... not fun.

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[Nuje]

10m of CAN twisted-pair wires costs about $30 from VW.

Not sure if this helps you out. Probably you need to know where those B### connections go.

 

[Cuzoe]

I'll have a look at that link when I get home... But I actually have 20m of can wiring on the way already, ordered along with LRR harness... As anticipated that harness only has 4 wires in it so I was already intending to add the twisted pair that goes to the Lane assist camera. The real issue is that I now need various pins that I was not considering.

Still need to order the repair wires, the cheapest I found them online is just over $4 each so it'll cost me about $55 total... Was quoted over $100 to get them from Cascade German, roughly the same price as my local dealership.

Found this, it won't be OEM but it looks like a pretty clean way to add things on the can bus... https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000334862080.html?

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[o_a_ravi]

Great Write-up lots of information gathered enough to start doing the retrofit on my vehicle after few failed attempts.

In process of getting the parts procured, Round LRR Radar, ABS Module, etc.

One Question I had about the radar is, these ones are quite hard to find used online and/or quite expensive., its all in 350+ range (USD). Is there any particular versions/indexes of the radar - 5Q0907541 to avoid ?

Eg. This thread and mqb.pl blog calls for a 5Q0907541P ., would it be okay if i order the radar with index L or G ?