Request for advice on engine removal vs exhaust manifold removal

[FMohlmann]

Hi Folks,

I have a 1996 Passat TDI, with 143k miles on it. Runs great have done a bunch of replacements etc. There is an exhaust leak somewhere around the manifold/turbo. I want to remove the exhause manifold, inspect it and the turbo and replace faulty part to stop the leak. While I am doing that I want to inspect the flex joint etc and possibly replace that as well.
I've removed the intake manifold in the past to clean out the gunk and found it horrendously difficult.

My question is: would it be easier all around to remove the engine to access the exhaust components or would it be easier to simply struggle with the difficult access to intake and exhaust manifold with engine in car ?

Any opinions would be appreciated.

thanks, Rick

 

[onlyn8v]

Personally, I would do it in the car. I did 2 intake manifold cleaning this month, and a rebuilt head install.

Nice to see a local posting!! (Im in Port Jeff!)

 

[TonyJetta]

Removing the engine is WAY more work that removing the exhaust manifold. Do it all in the car and save a LOT of trouble. Yes, it's still a PITA, but a LOT less time involved than pulling the motor.

Tony

 

[OilBurnerDE]

The biggest obstacle in accessing the exhaust and intake manifold is the EGR cooler.
With that out of the way, you can get to the intake, downpipe to turbo connection, oil lines and what not.

I bought a couple of EGR block of plates a Corrado heater hose and your set. You will have access to almost everything from the top. Also dropping the inner passager side CVJoint will give you more access from the bottom.

 

[Windex]

1996 - no EGR cooler.


Are you sure it is not the downpipe? Much more common.

 

[FMohlmann]

Fair enough guys, thanks for your input, will take your advice and access from the top.. Will let you all know how it turns out..

thanks Rick

 

[FMohlmann]

Onlyn8v, i'm on the south shore in hamlet of Brookhaven ( the hamlet in the town of Brookhaven)

 

[onlyn8v]

Cool, I know a guy that lives right next door to painters bar

 

[G60ING]

do you have time and money on your side? Can the car be off the road for an extended time?

Once you pull the motor you should do a bunch of items at one time since its now easier:

Clutch
rear main seal
motor mounts
water pump
timing belt
waterpump hoses
clean up engine bay
CV joints or axles

I'm replacing a turbo and I'm leaving the engine in the car. Hell I re-ringed the motor with it still in the car. The moment you yank the engine the time line gets longer and the total cost of the repairs sky rocket because you find all of the while you are in there type of items.

 

[dieseljunkie]

I find it much easier to put a plank of wood then cardboard on top of the engine bay so you can lay on your stomach as you work. Much easier on your back and you can see what you're doing.

 

[FMohlmann]

thanks guys! G60ING, I don't have time and money and I hear what you are saying about skyrocketing cost once you pull engine. I did that very thing on a 1994 Saab 900. cost skyrocketed, because as you say, while it is out you might as well do a whole bunch of things.

Desiel junkie, thanks for the excellent tip bout laying a plank across the top of engine bay

thanks again for your input !

 

[G60ING]

Ok now that you have committed to doing it with the engine in the car here are my tips:

Get a couple of different length extensions in 3/8". Get a set of wobbler extensions too.
Get a regular length 5mm and 6mm allen socket and get the long ball end ones two.

Before you try to remove the intake manifold bolts tap the 6mm allen socket into the bolts with a hammer first

use 6pt sockets as much as possible.

I've not had much difficulties over the years with these tips. When you do strip a 6mm allen bolt use the 12pt tool meant for the axle bolts and hammer this into stripped bolt, its worked great in the few occasions where I've had a bolt strip.

 

[dieseljunkie]

Use a good headlamp while you lay on your stomach. Being able to see what you are doing will help avoid stripped fasteners. Use plenty of penetrating oil and make sure the allen driver bits are straight and not cocked.

 

[G60ING]

I like to hang a shop light from the top of the hood. Its great for lighting everything

 

[dieseljunkie]

I like to hang a shop light from the top of the hood. Its great for lighting everything

That's true if he's standing on the side of the car. If laying on his stomach, his body would be blocking the light hung from the top of the hood. A good LED headlamp puts the light where you need it, no hands required and won't get in the way.

 

[G60ING]

Its worked great for the past decade of working on a lot of 8Vs (G60s and TDIS)

 

[FMohlmann]

thanks guys all great tips. I did remove the intake manifold for the recommended cleaning of EGR gunk. And your tip of tapping in the allen driver is especially important..
thanks again guys for sharing your wisdom...
Rick

 

[schultp]

I have one of those LED headlamps. They really do come in handy. I also hang a shop light like G60ING. It has more lighting power but tends to cast shadows. The LED headlamp takes care of this problem....so I use both

 

[FMohlmann]

Hi Folks, I fixed the exhaust leak today. It turned out to be the gasket between the downpipe and the turbo. I crawled under and over the engine and with some heat removed the 4 nuts holding the down pipe to the turbo. It turned out that the nut that was the hardest to reach was only hand tight, hence the leak. It also was not a copper pinch nut, so I am guessing that was the cause of the leak. So the take home lesson for me is that copper pinch nuts are key on exhaust applications. I used the trick of putting boards across the engine compartment and laying on top of them to get myself in position to remove the nuts. It was a nasty job but worth stop the smells that were coming in the cabin and the annoying whistling noise when accelerating. thanks for all your advice folks !