Biggest watch-out seems to be the break-in procedure for the new cam. Involves a high-zddp break in oil and some specific instructions. Failure to follow proper break-in has led to a number of reports of premature failure on replancement cams in BHW, BRM, BEW engines.
There is also a special puller to get the cam pulley off the cam - you're going to need to buy or borrow one.
Also good to do the timing belt at the same time, but not absolutely necessary.
I've done a lot of these cams, I just send them down the road, no break in and no problems. I would avoid excessive idling. Fire it up, check for leaks and drive, preferably for a half hour or so. Regular PD oil, 505.01 5W40 or rotella T6 seem good.
You don't need a puller. Remove the old cam with timing pulley hub attached, remove the bolt and put your least favorite bolt loosely in its place (or use the original bolt, if you're replacing it.) Hold the cam vertically by the pulley hub and give the bolt a solid smack with a decent sized hammer, pulley hub will pop right off.
Some people do the cam job without removing the tandem pump, but that can go sideways and it's pretty easy to break the tandem pump coupler. I'd pull the tandem pump and do the gasket at the same time. Make sure to put some sealant on the outer edges of the front and rear cam caps where they meet the head. Also put a bit of sealant on the tandem pump gasket in the same area. A bit of sealant at the corners of the cam caps and head where the valve cover gasket sits is a good idea.
I've seen many people accidentally remove head bolts when replacing a cam, don't do that, obviously. If you are using a 12mm triple square on a cam job, you are screwing it up...
All done, what a difference. One lifter was holed, and one lobe on the cam was flat. Didn’t have to pull the tandem pump, but loosen the 3 bolts that are easiest to get to, that gave enough flex to slide the new cam back in. Can’t believe what a difference this made, like a new car. Half a million miles here we come.