WillR
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Mar 2, 2001
- Location
- Honey Brook, PA
I figured I would post this with a simple title so maybe someone might find it searching for it.
I read everything I could find on how to replace the RS strut. This reading provided me with the information that the RS axle will hit on the sub frame, which prevents the hub from dropping far enough to get the strut out of the arm.
Popular Suggestions include:
1) using Spring compressors to shorten the shock.
2) Lowering the sub frame.
I tried #1. No way was that dam thing coming out. I really don't want to drop the sub frame: snap that bolt off and your in for a world of hurt.
So I sat back and looked at it and thought "Since you are also installing complete lower control arms, why not pull the lower arm and see if it the strut comes out"?
Problem solved. In fact I put the new strut back in, TC's with VR6 springs, 1 spacer and new mount without using the spring compressors.
Just move the rotor/hub forward which allows the axle to clear the sub frame (as you turn it CCW) and everything comes right apart.
Keep something handy (within reach) to hold up the rotor/hub, it's going to drop far enough to mess up your brake hose if you let it drop.
So if your thinking of doing struts, you probably need at least the rear lower control arm bushing anyway, so just do them all the same time, and pull the lower control arm first when you do the RS.
PS: I went with complete lower arms with ball joints because rock auto had them for like $36.00. I feel this was cheaper then rebuilding my old ones when you include the time to replace the bushings and ball joint.
Have fun!
I read everything I could find on how to replace the RS strut. This reading provided me with the information that the RS axle will hit on the sub frame, which prevents the hub from dropping far enough to get the strut out of the arm.
Popular Suggestions include:
1) using Spring compressors to shorten the shock.
2) Lowering the sub frame.
I tried #1. No way was that dam thing coming out. I really don't want to drop the sub frame: snap that bolt off and your in for a world of hurt.
So I sat back and looked at it and thought "Since you are also installing complete lower control arms, why not pull the lower arm and see if it the strut comes out"?
Problem solved. In fact I put the new strut back in, TC's with VR6 springs, 1 spacer and new mount without using the spring compressors.
Just move the rotor/hub forward which allows the axle to clear the sub frame (as you turn it CCW) and everything comes right apart.
Keep something handy (within reach) to hold up the rotor/hub, it's going to drop far enough to mess up your brake hose if you let it drop.
So if your thinking of doing struts, you probably need at least the rear lower control arm bushing anyway, so just do them all the same time, and pull the lower control arm first when you do the RS.
PS: I went with complete lower arms with ball joints because rock auto had them for like $36.00. I feel this was cheaper then rebuilding my old ones when you include the time to replace the bushings and ball joint.
Have fun!