Replacing Injection Pump - Timing belt too tight to get off

[timsch]

Hello all, I'm in the process of replacing a 10mm IP with an 11mm one. I'm following these instructions and am at the point where I'm to slip the TB off the camshaft and IP sprockets after loosening the tensioner counter-clockwise. Problem is the TB is still mighty tight on these sprockets. I've double & triple checked the tensioner and prodded it with a screwdriver to make sure it's at the loosest setting. I can probably get it off, but it will be a chore.

Looking at the 2nd page for reinstallation, there are instructions to remove the camshaft sprocket to make it easier (or allow) you to reinstall the TB. I don't know if there were reasons not to include the removal of this sprocket for the removal of the TB, but I don't want to proceed without getting advice in case there's something I'm missing.

 

[Zak99b5]

Did you remove the top small roller? That allows a little more slack.

 

[Vince Waldon]

You'll want the cam sprocket loose anyways to properly tension the timing belt again when you put it all back together, and yup pulling the cam sprocket is the easiest way I know to get the belt off.

 

[timsch]

I did not remove the top small roller. I checked that, but the belt was easily pushed away from it, so I left it alone.

You'll want the cam sprocket loose anyways to properly tension the timing belt again when you put it all back together, and yup pulling the cam sprocket is the easiest way I know to get the belt off.

True that, but I didn't know if there was a reason the loosening of the cam sprocket was left until a later stage. 1st time to do this IP replacement, so I'm proceeding with an (over?)-abundance of caution.

 

[Zak99b5]

Yes, you could remove the cam sprocket now--no need to wait till reinstallation of the belt.

 

[Vince Waldon]

Yup, wise to proceed with caution and double-check where you can.

If you've not found the Timing Belt pdf on this forum it's listed in my sig below and is an excellent step-by-step resource with pictures at every juncture.. a great additional aid to mytdi stuff.

Get 'er all locked at TDC and then you can confidently remove the belt and the pump knowing that you'll able to follow the timing belt instructions with confidence to put it all back together again.

 

[timsch]

Yup, wise to proceed with caution and double-check where you can.

If you've not found the Timing Belt pdf on this forum it's listed in my sig below and is an excellent step-by-step resource with pictures at every juncture.. a great additional aid to mytdi stuff.

Get 'er all locked at TDC and then you can confidently remove the belt and the pump knowing that you'll able to follow the timing belt instructions with confidence to put it all back together again.

Oh, yes, I've found the TB pdf and used it recently on my other Jetta. Much appreciated.

It's locked at TDC now, at least with the camshaft lock. Crankshaft lock can't be put in place now though. I recall one poster mentioning being nervous about the possibility of the TB getting slack at the crank with the top being disconnected. I don't know if there is anything that could or should be done to make sure that doesn't happen.....

 

[jokila]

Oh, yes, I've found the TB pdf and used it recently on my other Jetta. Much appreciated.

It's locked at TDC now, at least with the camshaft lock. Crankshaft lock can't be put in place now though. I recall one poster mentioning being nervous about the possibility of the TB getting slack at the crank with the top being disconnected. I don't know if there is anything that could or should be done to make sure that doesn't happen.....

I would not worry about that. The cover is on and it's not going anywhere.

 

[Vince Waldon]

Me neither. TDC on the crank is easy to double-check as you put 'er back together... I personally don't bother with the crank lock anymore (on ALH engines).

 

[timsch]

OK. Thanks for all of the input. I'll get back to it now.

 

[burpod]

yeah i never use the crank lock, no need for it. once the tensioner is released, take the nut off and remove it, then take the belt off. loosen cam pulley then put on new pump then belt + tensioner etc

 

[timsch]

Installing the 11mm pump now. The slot in the flange for mounting the pulley is about 180 deg off from where it needs to be to insert the pin once I get it installed. I know I need to rotate it with a 22mm wrench. Can this be done with the pump dry, or does it need to be primed 1st?.

 

[Vince Waldon]

No worries dry, to get it into alignment, just wouldn't want to spin it at 1200 RPM for any length of time.

 

[timsch]

Thanks everyone. Got it installed no problem. I was a little bugged by the suction sound when pulling vac to bleed the pump. It sounded like an external leak. Glad I was wrong about that. Got it bled and it fired right up.