Replacing front struts

[diesel steve]

I am planning on replacing my front struts.I have only seen two choices during my search.The Bilstein 22045768 that I know that brand has a good reputation and the cheaper priced kyb 365070.What is the preferred choice of tdiclub members?Are there other brands and part numbers? I just want a good ride and am not looking for a performance type strut. I have not taken it apart yet.Is there a strut mount that should also be replaced or any thing else while I have it apart? What about new springs? Any comments I would appreciate. On a side note I am going to change the rear control arm bushings I think they are called part number 3a0501541. The rear shocks don't look bad from appearance wise but I might need to change those also. If I do the rear is there mounts or other things I should replace in the rear?

 

[garciapiano]

Why are you replacing just the fronts? In my opinion, if the fronts are worn, the rears aren’t far behind.

KYB and Bilstein are both trusted brands, I don’t think you’ll go wrong with either. For an OEM-style replacement, I would go for the Bilstein touring class (TC) shocks.

your original springs should be fine.

replacing the rear control arm bushings is a good idea, but it’s a pain in the rear end amd requires special tools and a press, and even then it’s difficult. Again, why just the rears? You should replace the fronts too. Your best bet would be to get new control arms with new bushings pre-installed.

Usually when I do suspension on a VW, I do EVERYTHING because if you don’t, sooner or later the other worn components will cause additional wear on your new components. That means control arms, bushings, tie rods, ball joints, the whole nine yards. It’s expensive, but doing it piecemeal is more expensive.

 

[Abacus]

I agree with garciapiano on most everything. The only thing I might change is that I have been less than impressed with the KYB struts than the Bilsteins, but I am not impressed with how long the Bilstein TC's last.

Also, check your springs before taking anything apart to make sure you don't need something you don't yet have. I have seen a number of broken springs over the years that people didn't know were broken. Keep in mind the rear wagon springs are taller than the sedan springs by a little. I ran wagon springs in my sedan to give it a little height.

I also agree with looking at and/or replacing your front control arm mounts at the same time, just be careful unbolting them, so don't just hammer on them with an impact gun as you may snap the internal nuts off resulting in more work. I did not cut the hole here as I use a hole drill, but I did weld the nut back on and then weld a patch over the hole.

The front mounts can be replaced easily if you have a large socket set and some threaded rod. I've done tons of them that way.

For the fronts, I suggest buying the HD strut mount. Normally I will have nothing Meyle on my car but these have held up well, better than the OEM mounts. They can be found a few places and the part number is 357412331AMY. You can see the difference in the picture below, and they don't crush as easily, which results in front end sag. (HD on right)

For the rear axle beam bushings, I used to have to do them once a year due to the car tearing them up. We made a tool that really helps from some 2" pipe end caps but I used to do it with just shims and some threaded rod. It's much easier with a tool. The axle beam doesn't have to be removed from the car so no need to crack into the brake system or remove the struts if you don't want to.

 

[Steve Addy]

As others have said, replace all the rubber mounts you can while you're in there. Control arm bushings, beam axle bushings etc.

I also agree with mark, the Meyle HD front strut mounts are worth the extra hassle of locating. And be sure to get new front strut bearings too.

Steve

 

[ToddA1]

I’ve run Monroe OE Spectrum, in both of my B4s. For a stock ride, I think they’re fine.

I‘d do all 4, rather than just the fronts.

-Todd

 

[Steve Addy]

I've used KYB struts on several cars and they always seem to be weaker than what I think they should be. On the E320 they seem less firm than I think they should be.

I believe there's KYB all around on the wagon right now, soon to be changed to TRW in front and Sachs in the rear. The KYB struts in the rear of the wagon have 50k miles on them since new so I might wait a little longer on those but I think the fronts are ready for a change and I need to change the front mounts to Meyle HD. I will probably inspect all the front suspension stuff even though it was all new 50k miles ago.

I am curious as to what others have for OE springs on the front of their B4 or B4v? What color stripes are present on the OE springs? Right now on the B3V I have springs marked 2 green 3 pink, but the springs off the 98 Jetta TDI are 2 green 3 white.

Steve

 

[diesel steve]

Those photos of the replacing the rear bushings looks like more involved then I thought.The home made tool with the pipe end caps? Is there another way to remove them? I don't want to take the the car to a VW repair shop and want to change them myself if I can.Also the comment by Steve Addy about TRW front struts? I thought TRW was bought out by Tenneco automotive and they dropped TRW and use the Moog brand. If there is a TRW front strut,what is the part number and where is it available? But replacing the rear bushings; is there another way? Trying to cut pipe end caps looks like it was done with a torch that I don't have. I don't want this to turn out to be project that I can't complete.

 

[Abacus]

Getting them out is really easy, just cut the rubber with a hacksaw, then pound out each half from the inside.

To put them in, just use some threaded rod and some shim pieces to make up the irregular difference. The tool just makes it easier. They’re really not that bad.

 

[Steve Addy]

Those photos of the replacing the rear bushings looks like more involved then I thought.The home made tool with the pipe end caps? Is there another way to remove them? I don't want to take the the car to a VW repair shop and want to change them myself if I can.Also the comment by Steve Addy about TRW front struts? I thought TRW was bought out by Tenneco automotive and they dropped TRW and use the Moog brand. If there is a TRW front strut,what is the part number and where is it available? But replacing the rear bushings; is there another way? Trying to cut pipe end caps looks like it was done with a torch that I don't have. I don't want this to turn out to be project that I can't complete.

RE: TRW struts, I bought these off RA (Rock Auto) a while back...I think last April? Part number is JGM4284S and they were on clearance on RA. When I bought them they apparently only had two because after I received them I went back and there were no more listed. Then maybe a few months ago they appeared again, however, the price was not nearly as attractive this time; I haven't bought any more.

The struts are listed for Mk3 Golf and Jetta only but I don't really consider there to be a difference between the Mk3 and the B4 cars in suspension parts in the front. There are differences in the control arms and engine K frame but the spindles and axle shafts for the 4 cylinders are basically all the same. The mountings are the same and I believe the front coils might be the same too although there is a weight difference. I've been running KYB front struts with Mk3 coils (if there is such a thing) since I converted to the TDI, and they've been fine. They might not provide quite the same support as the fronts from a B4 but I like the present ride height.

IDK what most B4 TDI cars have for coils in front (color of stripes that is) but the ones I run are 2 green and 3 pink, and the Mk3 TDI cars I own have 2 green and 3 white. The 2 green 3 pink were originally from a 97 Mk3 ABA car with AT and AC. That should be sufficient for the B3V TDI I would think.

As Mark said, the rear bushings are not all that trouble although I will say I bought a special tool from eastern europe to do that job. It does Mk3 too, but I probably could have gotten by without it.

EDIT: 97 ABA 2.0 AT and AC springs are 1 green 3 pink, 98 AHU MT with AC springs are 2 green 3 white.

Steve

 

[diesel steve]

Thanks Abacus and Steve Addy for the clarifications. I appreciate it. Should the front springs be changed when I do the struts? I don't know how old my struts are but they look very rusty.

 

[Abacus]

I do not. The springs only provide the height and weight, the struts provide the ride. If they are not broken and you are fine with the height and rate, then I'd use them.

I have used wagon springs on my sedan to gain a little more height, and I did add HD springs to the rear of the wagon for towing and hauling gear.

 

[Steve Addy]

Thanks Abacus and Steve Addy for the clarifications. I appreciate it. Should the front springs be changed when I do the struts? I don't know how old my struts are but they look very rusty.

I wouldn't bother replacing springs unless the struts were run an excessively long period of time and the springs suffered from it.

The rear beam on Mk3 and B4 tends to get ignored and after the struts fail the beam bushings get trashed from excess twisting. On the B4 unfortunately the springs tend to break too where as on the Mk3 the rear springs apparently don't break.

Mostly I think the rear B4 springs (and B3 too) tend to break due to corrosion, but that's just my personal observation / guess.

Steve