Replacing Fender Subwoofer

[Stealth TDI]

Hello,

I like the sound of the Fender Premium Audio system. It's very good for a factory system. However, the subwoofer lacks independent control and it's not *quite* deep enough for me. It's *almost* there, but not quite. Therefore, I decided to move my 10" sub system from my Mk3 to my Mk6. I like to hide things and maintain a stock appearance. So, for now, I'm building a box that'll go into the spare tire well:

This is the first box I've built myself. I've always bought them in years past. I decided to use 3/4" MDF and had Home Depot make the major cuts for me...

I did the rest with a circular saw and a jig saw. Here's the box after I had built it and placed the components for mock-up...

This is after I added bracing, and sanded-down the imperfections, which were many due to my lack of a table saw...

This after I carpeted the box. It was my first time and things did not got well. There's plenty of glue overspray...

I used to GooGone to remove the overspray. It worked great, but I used too much along this seam and ruined the glue's adhesion...

I cleaned that all up with isopropyl alcohol and a heat gun. Then I did some patchwork with my carpeting. I did not want to re-carpet the whole box since the majority of it will be out of sight. This photo shows some patchwork as well as the connections for my amp...

While I worked on all of this, I got a great deal on a new 10" Rockford Fosgate sub. So I will not be re-using my very old DEI sub. Here's the completed box, ready to replace the spare tire...

To be honest, I don't like the idea of being without a spare tire, even though the majority of my travel is within 50 miles of home. I'm already brainstorming an idea which will involve retaining the spare tire and perhaps using a false floor. That'll be a winter/spring project.

Continued in next post...

 

[Stealth TDI]

My work has shifted to power and signal distribution. I chose to mount this board in place of the Fender subwoofer...

This was my first work on wire routing. It seemed like a good idea at the time...

Then I decided I wanted to make room for fuse panels, both switched and battery-direct, and reroute the wires to minimize criss-crossing any wires. So I removed the ground bus and did some rearranging. I didn't let misting rain stop me from getting comfortable in my trunk and getting to work...

I was outside working like this until 10pm two nights in a row. My wife LOVES IT.

Once I mapped where I wanted the wires to go, I simply had to spend some time placing each wire until I had gone from this...

To this...

In that photo, clockwise from 12-o'clock: AudioControl LC2i signal processor with line conversion, power and ground distribution panel (always on), fuse block with direct battery connection (fed by 4-gauge wire), switched fuse block (only on with the key), and a 120A relay that enables switched power.

Neither fuse box is being used to capacity, not even close. I guess that gives me room for expansion if I decide to go nuts. For now, this panel is powering a Rockford Fosgate P200-2 200W amp, a 400W pure sinewave voltage inverter (key-on only), the converter box for my trailer lighting, the LC2i, and 12V outlet in the trunk. My wires are color-coded as follows: Red = Battery Power; Yellow = Key-On Power; Orange = Key-On Power to Voltage Inverter; Blue = Amp Turn-On; White = Remote Sub Control; Black = Ground

Tonight, I will work on routing the wiring to their final destinations and then reinstalling my interior paneling. So far, things are coming together nicely. I'm waiting on just a few more parts to enable me to complete the job.



Scott

 

[Stealth TDI]

Progress:

Here's how I distribute some of the power/grounds in the back of the car:

I'm happy to finally have all interior panels and trim pieces reinstalled. Here's a not-so-great photo of the subwoofer in place:

I finally have the Fender subwoofer connector and can get the speaker inputs sorted. After that, I just need to make a cover panel and choose a method for connecting to the battery.

Scott

 

[SirSipsAbit]

Nice work

Sweet install! It's gonna sound excellent!

 

[Stealth TDI]

Hello,

I finished the cosmetic part of the install:

The factory trunk insert fits right on top, leaving just a small hump where the speaker grill protrudes. All that's left is a few electrical connections and I'll be ready to turn it on. I'm picking up the last of my needed connectors tomorrow. I think I'll be rocking by Saturday!

Scott

 

[Stealth TDI]

It's . A L I V E !

It sounds good! I've adjusted the LC2i and sub amp to produce the amount of bass I prefer when the ACR-1 remote control knob is centered. That allows me to adjust from a little sub-bass (min) to way-too-much-sub-bass (max). My daughter and a couple of coworkers are suitably impressed with the overall sound. It's good to FEEL the bass, which is almost unavoidable in the back seat. One person said, "This is only a 10-incher?" I guess that's a compliment!

Here's the final layout of the distribution board, with the Fender subwoofer connection in the lower-left of the photo:

A closer look at the Fender connection:

I opted to mount the factory subwoofer connection here for two reasons: 1) I didn't have to extend the pre-crimped wires I had purchased; 2) Attaching it to the foam on the seat release cable should prevent buzzing or vibrating. To mimic a factory-like fit/finish, I purchased the Fender subwoofer connector housing, VW part number 8E0-972-714, and the appropriate pre-crimped wires, VW part number 000-979-134-EA (x2).

Here's the factory pinout for those who might choose to duplicate my efforts:

The connection at the battery is the only thing I haven't photographed. I have a temporary connection at the moment and hope to have a better solution on hand soon. My plan to replace the factory harness to the main fuse panel and starter fell through when I discovered what a PITA it is to access the starter's electrical connection. I should be able to share something by this weekend.

It's tough to see in the photo, but I have the "Bass" setting in the LC2i set almost to minimum. I can only guess, but I suspect the speaker-level signal coming from the Fender subwoofer connection is pretty high. The bass initially blew me away, even with the volume turned all the way to "1". I'd estimate that the LC2i Bass setting is at about "2" and the gain on my 200W amp is set to about "7" (all imaginary numbers, of course).

The Future:

I don't like the custom panel I made for the sub and amp-cutout. I'm a perfectionist and, while it looks good in photos, it just doesn't cut it in person. I've removed the custom board, laid a metal speaker grill over the subwoofer, and put the factory trunk liner and weather mat back into place. The metal speaker grill sits perfectly beneath the liner, but still supports weight as proven when I laid on it to finish up my wiring. The trunk looks just like nothing is there. And, as I wondered and people ask a lot, the two mats do absolutely nothing to muffle the bass.

Back to not liking the custom panel, I will make a shelf for my amp and then move it to near the LC2i. That will free up space in front of the sub for my jack, air compressor, and tire plug kit. I'm already brainstorming an idea to build another sub box into a donut spare tire. But I'm in no rush since I'm pretty pleased with this system. The trunk is begging for a ham radio now that power distribution is well-sorted. We'll see if that ever happens.

I plan to shoot a wrap-up video since there are some things that cannot adequately be explained with photographs. I may do that this weekend.

Thanks for reading along!

Scott

 

[Stealth TDI]

Hello,

I finished up my pure sine inverter install tonight:

Tucked under the front seat in place of the (removed) CarNet module...

I kept enough cable to be able to pull the inverter out for inspection or checking wires...

It feeds this outlet behind the center console...

The only challenge it's presented so far is that it holds a residual charge when turned off. This charge then keeps power applied to my "turn-on" circuits, which keeps my amp and RC2i energized. I'm testing it now to see how long it stays on... how long it takes for the voltage to dissipate. Worst case is I'll need to add another relay to isolate the circuit. No sweat!

Scott

 

[Stealth TDI]

Hello,

I think I already mentioned that I didn't like the trim panel I had made and that I wanted to move the amp out of the spare tire well. Now that I know the amp won't overheat while mounted upside-down, I went ahead and moved it up with the other items. I also added a second relay to isolate the inverter from the other switched items.

Here is today's work:

The amp is a little thicker than I remembered and hangs lower than expected. That's okay so long as it doesn't interfere with my ability to slide a bicycle into the trunk.

The only items I have left to finish and photograph are the final battery connection and the subwoofer control knob in the console. Both are temporary solutions that I hope to finalize soon.

Scott

 

[Stealth TDI]

Hello,

All but the final termination at the battery is done. Everything is working fine with this temporary setup:

I had hoped that the cloth battery cover would still fit. But no luck. I'm researching alternatives.

I haven't shared my solution for the remote sub-bass control. Here's a photo that compares the ACR-1 remote knob with the custom mount that I made from a piece of aluminum:

I like this knob because of the raised white piece. It makes it easier to see exactly where it's adjusted and the raised piece lets me feel the adjustment in the dark.

I also put some carpet over the inverter to help conceal it better:

Finally, since I'm no longer carrying a spare tire, I've added a compressor, a plug kit, the jack, and a torque wrench to the subwoofer well (no longer a "spare tire well"):

My next project will be to add sound deadening material to the trunk. I'll share a photo or two when that's done. I'm also considering a VHF/UHF transceiver in January. Adding one should be easy now that I have 12V distribution in the trunk. Of course, it all looks bone stock to anyone who looks in the trunk with the lid open.

I was a little concerned about the reduced clearance from the amplifier being thicker than I recalled. However, all is well so long as my bike can squeeze in there:

I had to change my insertion technique. But it fits. More details and photos in my ELECTRONICS ALBUM.

Scott

 

[Wannabridin]

this is great stuff!!! i've always been tempted to take out my spare tire as well and put a repair "kit" in there, but i don't know if I can pull the trigger or not!! In my mind, as soon as I remove it, I'll have a flat or something...

I take the periodic 2-300 mile trip with a occasional trip up to the mountains (800+ one way). Also, I love the attention to detail of the install. I still wish I could go tell my younger self to plan things a lot better so they'd last longer and look better!!

 

[Stealth TDI]

Thanks!

I'm making some final touches to a video summary of the system. If you've never done any vlogging, just know that sometimes words don't come out of your mouth quite like you'd hope they would. This blooper is too funny to not share:https://youtu.be/v3TBSqgh_js

I'll share the video when I'm done editing...

Scott

 

[Stealth TDI]

I finally found and installed a new battery terminal that allows me to connect 4-gauge wire with ring terminals:

There's room for improvement. I'm investigating whether the plastic battery box is large enough to cover all of this up with minor adjustments. I hope to know soon.

Scott

 

[Victor Huge]

Amazing install, honestly love how clean you mounted everything, but so much work just for more bass? The fender sub is more than sufficient if you go for a flat output throughout the frequency range. As long as you're happy though, who cares?

Amazing install again, if dealerships had the same attention to detail as you did then the term stealership wouldn't exist

 

[Stealth TDI]

Thanks for the comments, Victor! I have an idea that'll really clean up the look of that battery. It won't take much time or money at all.

...but so much work just for more bass?

I'd agree if "more bass" was my only goal. I was after a specific kind of bass as well as individual control of said bass. Plus, I had installed the inverter and really needed a direct battery connection for it. Once I discovered how easy it is to get through the firewall, I simply went nuts and shot for the moon.

Amazing install again, if dealerships had the same attention to detail as you did then the term stealership wouldn't exist

Thanks again. BTW, if dealers paid the same attention to detail as I did, they wouldn't make any money because jobs would take far too long. I agonize over little things. I might take 30-60 minutes just for an oil change simply because I take my time and check so many other things along the way. Dealers want the job in and out really fast to get to the next dollar... I mean customer.

Someone at VWVortex suggested that I should make that distribution board and sell them. But, honestly, no one would pay me enough for the specific attention I put into this. Besides, I love it enough to do my own, but not enough to do others'. They love would fade if it became a chore.

Take Care,

Scott

 

[79jasper]

Nice work.
It's ridiculously expensive, but you can get a box that let's you keep the spare tire.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

 

[tonystdi]

Very nice set up, I like it!

 

[Stealth TDI]

The box from JL Audio was tempting, even with its $599 price tag. However, mounting one of those boxes would inhibit me from transporting my bicycles in the trunk:

This bike just barely fits. Even my "smaller" bike needs the area that's used by the JL Audio subwoofer for its forks.

Choices... Compromises... I do carry the spare when I'm on long trips, though.

 

[Victor Huge]

Oh nice, is that the GLI subwoofer? I recall a lot of issues with rattling which is likely why it was moved to the wheel well

 

[79jasper]

Hey most new cars don't even come with a spare. They have a can of fix-a-flat and a small compressor. It'll be fine. Lol
Again, nice work. Especially the wiring.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

 

[Stealth TDI]

Hello,

Oh nice, is that the GLI subwoofer? I recall a lot of issues with rattling which is likely why it was moved to the wheel well

No. I believe all Jettas and Passats with Fender Premium audio feature a subwoofer that's under the rear window. The hatchbacks get their Fender sub in the spare tire well since they do not have a fixed parcel shelf.

Hey most new cars don't even come with a spare. They have a can of fix-a-flat and a small compressor. It'll be fine. Lol Again, nice work. Especially the wiring.

Thanks! My wife thought a spare tire is a safety item. My argument is that it's about convenience rather than safety. With TPMS, my hope is that I'd be able to stop and address a puncture before major tire damage occurs. Obviously, this is moot if I strike something that damages the tire beyond repair. That's when the roadside assistance becomes handy.

Scott

 

[NJ_VWPassat]

Hey guys I’m looking for some advice on adding a custom sub box / enclosure in the trunk of my Passat. I saw what Stealth TDI did on his setup. I was hoping to keep my spare tire. Does anyone know if Uber Stealth is still making custom enclosures for the VW Passats that fit over the spare tire where the tool box and jack is? I emailed them but didn’t hear back yet.

I went to the Uber Stealth website and saw that they can build a custom enclosure for dual 10” slim subs. I guess the magic question is how much better is the bass sound and response with a smaller enclosure and slim subs vs. taking out the spare tire and using the entire area to build a better & bigger enclosure and have full size subs vs. slim subs? And how would a slim sub(s) setup compare to the Fender subwoofer, which is basically a slim subwoofer itself?

Looking for some advice on the rest of the setup.

It looks like I will need that LC2i controller and a good Amp. Any suggestions on which Amp to power two subs?

For slim 10” subs. I see there is a Pioneer slim 10” for around $80 each. Or I can go high end and get the JL Audio slim 10” sub for 3-4 times that.

Same thing on the amps. I see there is a Pioneer Mono amp for around $160, or I can drop $700 on the JL Audio amp. If I go the JL route, looking at over $1000 just in audio equipment.

I’m also a little confused on the Ohms to go with for the sub setup.

So if I put the two 10” slim subs in the enclosure over the spare tire, what’s a good location to mount the LC2i controller and Amp? I’m assuming that I would rip out the Fender sub and I could put them there.

And for bass control, would I have a bass controller connected to the amp or connected to the LC2i? I still want to keep my RNS-510, but want independent bass control for the subs.

Am I missing any other hardware for the setup?

 

[Stealth TDI]

My thoughts:

I went to the Uber Stealth website and saw that they can build a custom enclosure for dual 10” slim subs. I guess the magic question is how much better is the bass sound and response with a smaller enclosure and slim subs vs. taking out the spare tire and using the entire area to build a better & bigger enclosure and have full size subs vs. slim subs? And how would a slim sub(s) setup compare to the Fender subwoofer, which is basically a slim subwoofer itself?

The Uber Stealth box looks good. I really think one sub is enough unless you're shooting for A LOT of volume. Don't worry about the lack of e-mail response from Uber Stealth on a weekend. Give it time. They may have a large mailbox. Or call them on Monday...

It looks like I will need that LC2i controller and a good Amp. Any suggestions on which Amp to power two subs?

If you have no amp at all, you can skip the LC2i by simply buying an amp that accepts speaker level inputs. I was stubborn and wanted to use the amp I already had on hand (it lacks speaker level inputs). At a glance, it's tough to find lower-powered amps that accept speaker level inputs. But I didn't look very hard. Get an amp that features a remote sub control and you're in business.

For slim 10” subs. I see there is a Pioneer slim 10” for around $80 each. Or I can go high end and get the JL Audio slim 10” sub for 3-4 times that... Same thing on the amps. I see there is a Pioneer Mono amp for around $160, or I can drop $700 on the JL Audio amp. If I go the JL route, looking at over $1000 just in audio equipment.

Be careful that you're not overpowering the sub. Feeding a 400-watt sub with a 2400-watt amp is asking for trouble.

I’m also a little confused on the Ohms to go with for the sub setup.

That's a good reason to keep things simple by using just one single-voicecoil sub. But the simplified explanation is "two 4-ohm loads in parallel is ~2-ohms" and "two 4-ohm loads in series is ~8-ohms." Choose a sub that'll match your choice of amp or choose an amp that'll match your choice of sub. See http://www.crutchfield.com/S-yBqaZkoFeuN/learn/wiring-subwoofers-ohms.html for more info.

So if I put the two 10” slim subs in the enclosure over the spare tire, what’s a good location to mount the LC2i controller and Amp? I’m assuming that I would rip out the Fender sub and I could put them there.

"Rip out the Fender sub" from where? Where is it on the Passat? If you go with the Uber Stealth option, I'd stick with the single sub and then mount the amp as shown on the website.

And for bass control, would I have a bass controller connected to the amp or connected to the LC2i? I still want to keep my RNS-510, but want independent bass control for the subs.

I think remote amplifier control is better. But I must admit that I have no experience with it. It's just the direction I would go if I was starting from scratch.

Am I missing any other hardware for the setup?

Direct battery connection, remote turn-on, and a way to get the audio signal into your amp... unless you're planning to copy my method.

Good Luck,

Scott

 

[NJ_VWPassat]

Thanks for the detailed response.

Sorry I'm not good with the multi-quote thing, so I'll just reply all in one.

I think I will go with the Uber Stealth box, as it's a proven product based on the forum posts and it keeps things simpler.

Just to be clear, I have a 2013 VW Passat TDI SEL Premium with the RNS-510 head unit and the Fender premium sound system. The Fender subwoofer is located on the top of the trunk area.

I assume that most people just remove the entire assembly (why have that space taken up with a sub that is no longer hooked up), then sell it on Ebay. That would leave room for the Amp and LC2i to be installed up there. Then if I went with the Uber Stealth box on top of the spare tire, I could have the sub on the upper portion and the tool cubby on the lower portion. Or two subs? I'm actually wondering what the difference would be (and sound like) with two 10" slim subs vs. just one? I doubt it would be a linear increase.... where double the amount of subs would not equal double the bass volume or decibels. Regardless, I would be interested in hearing if anyone has done a setup with two slim 10" subs and how it turned out?

Regarding the LC2i controller .... from a lot of posts that I read, there is something in the RNS-510 that starts reducing the bass as the volume is increased. And therefore many people are saying that you do need it, regardless of the amp that you go with.

I really would like to go with an all JL setup, even though it is much pricier. If I go with one JL Audio slim 10” sub, it looks like JL has two lines of amps - the XDv2 series or the JX series. Both have remote bass control, so that's good. The XDv2 series are a little bit more expensive. I did email JL directly and asked them which amp they recommend for a single 10tw3-d4 Shallow-mount sub. I'll post what they say in this thread.

FYI- I found a really good thread here which describes an install on the Passat with JL audio equipment.

I think I need to talk to that guy Nik at Uber Stealth and go over the exact setup. If anyone has his contact tel. please PM it to me. I didn't see a number on the website. Hoping to reach him on Monday.

 

[Stealth TDI]

Hello,

Thanks for the detailed response. Just to be clear, I have a 2013 VW Passat TDI SEL Premium with the RNS-510 head unit and the Fender premium sound system. The Fender subwoofer is located on the top of the trunk area.

Okay. That's what I thought. I must've misunderstood your intention. I removed my Fender subwoofer. But I bagged and stored it in case I want to return it to the car upon sale.

If you mount anything there, be aware that there are a few wires running around above there and beneath the parcel shelf cover under the window. I chose to mount a wood panel so I could drive various screws with reckless abandon while securing the components and wire retention ties. With the wood panels, I was able to chose outer places to mount them where I knew I could drive a screw without hitting a wire or driving into the plastic interior piece. Also, know that a piece of wood won't fit flat until you scallop some pieces out to account for a few protrusions that are concealed by your Fender sub. You'll see. Just don't expect to move fast through this. My project took WEEKS since I worked outside after work and needed weather cooperation (to a point).

I'm actually wondering what the difference would be (and sound like) with two 10" slim subs vs. just one? I doubt it would be a linear increase.... where double the amount of subs would not equal double the bass volume or decibels.

You're probably right. With my single, I can get it pretty loud with my settings while still maintaining a clean sound. I get some distortion if I crank the remote sub control knob to max AND turn it up loud. But I don't listen to my bass that loud anyway. If I did, then I would add another sub and switch from a 200-watt amp to a 500-watt amp. I doubt that would give me twice the sub-bass. But expecting 50% more from a second sub and more power is not unrealistic. That would put me FAR ahead of my normal listening habits. Plus, adding the second sub would take away from the storage space I currently have in what's left of the spare tire well.

It's too bad you're not closer. I'd let you hear mine to give you an idea of what a modest upgrade can do. It may surprise you. Let me know if you find yourself planning a trip to America's Historic Triangle (Yorktown, Williamsburg and Jamestown). Meeting at ImpexFest is an option, too, if you haven't already made your move.

...from a lot of posts that I read, there is something in the RNS-510 that starts reducing the bass as the volume is increased. And therefore many people are saying that you do need it, regardless of the amp that you go with.

That may be accurate. I haven't noticed. Then again, I left the "Accubass" settings in their factory positions (centered). As a result, the LC2i may be making corrections without my knowledge or intervention. I guess that's a good thing!

FYI- I found a really good thread here which describes an install on the Passat with JL audio equipment.

Nicely done! One thing I did differently (besides almost everything due to my OCD ) is when I came through the firewall. I made just a 1-mm hole in the grommet. It readily stretched to accept the 4-gauge wire, all without removing anything. I have no doubt that it's sealed very well against the weather. A hot clothing hanger would work on the Passat.

Scott

 

[NJ_VWPassat]

Well right now my car is over at German Diesel Motorwerks in PA getting a turbo upgrade to the Malone 3.5 tune. As part of the upgrade, the AdBlue system is being ripped out. The AdBlue and urea tank is right below the right-side trunk storage space.

Les told me that I can mount a 2nd battery in the AdBlue tray, and he is building me a custom battery tray. The top of the battery should still be under the original AdBlue cover, so it should look very clean and OEM in that you won't see the extra battery. However this should be perfect to connect the subwoofer amp and LC2i to. Very short distance of cable run.

So how should the amp and LC2i be wired in order to turn on when my RNS-510 or accessory wire is powered on? Is there anything in the stock Fender subwoofer cabling that could trigger a remote power-on of the amp and LC2i? I'm not really familiar with what inputs the Fender subwoofer is getting on the Passat? I know some of the higher end JL Audio amps automatically power on when they get an audio input signal and turn off when there is no signal. Not sure about the LC2i.

Basically I only want the amp and LC2i to come on and be powered when I power on the car and/or the radio... and would prefer not to have to run another wire to the front of the car.

Either way, I would still need to run a remote bass control switch up to the driver's side (I think right near the gear shifter for easy access and control).

 

[Stealth TDI]

The LC2i can be activated automatically when a signal is detected. Then it will turn on the amplifier. That said, I've read it can be quirky. So I didn't even give it a chance. I ran my own turn-on wire. See the LC2i directions about doing this. You have to move a jumper and then add a turn-on wire.

You're going to wind up running a large charging wire from the main battery to the rear anyway (don't forget the battery isolator). Plus, you're going to run the remote sub control wire, too. So adding just one more wire isn't going to kill you. An 18-24 gauge wire is fine. I used an "add-a-circuit" and tapped into a fuse location that I know is switched power. The LC2i and amp go on and off with the key. I can't think of any switched power in the trunk that I'd want to mess with. You may be in luck if Passats have 12V outlets in the trunk. My Jetta does not.

The only pitfall with my method is the amp and LC2i are on any time the car is on regardless of whether I'm listening to the radio. But I always play the radio... so no big deal. The LC2i and amp remain OFF when I play the stereo without the key. That's good to keeping my battery charged. All is well so long as everything is off when I leave the car.

Scott

 

[NJ_VWPassat]

The LC2i can be activated automatically when a signal is detected. Then it will turn on the amplifier. That said, I've read it can be quirky. So I didn't even give it a chance. I ran my own turn-on wire. See the LC2i directions about doing this. You have to move a jumper and then add a turn-on wire.

In theory, just run the Volkswagen Fender subwoofer cable to the LC2i controller, then run that to the JL Audio amp, and then both should only come on when there is audio signal (bass) coming to them.... which should only be when the RNS-510 is on.

Again, in theory

And just to be clear on the wiring of the LC2i below

You unplugged the Fender subwoofer cable, and plugged all 4 wires in to the "speaker inputs" of the LC2i. I saw your close up pic of the Fender subwoofer cable and the color coding diagram of the 4 wires - looks pretty straight forward. Then run power (+12V & Ground) to the LC2i. Then you ran two coax sub cables to the sub from the LC2i "Bass Output L/R."

So what are the "Main Output" jacks for on the LC2i?

And what did you set the 3 black knobs at on the LC2i.... the AccuBASS, Main, and Bass? I would assume just leave then in the default position shown in the picture above, since I would have full bass control with JL Audio remote bass control knob.

 

[Stealth TDI]

Hello,

The wiring diagram you posted is not official, is incomplete, and features extra resistors for a Chrysler installation. See the real deal at http://www.audiocontrol.com/downloads/car/current/lc2i/lc2i-user-manual.pdf. Here's a sales note with some set-up examples: http://www.audiocontrol.com/downloads/car/current/lc2i/lc2i-sales-note.pdf. "System #3" is closest to what I did. Missing from the drawing you shared is a turn-on wire which would go from the LC2i's "Remote Out" terminal and over to the turn-on terminal of your amp. "Remote In" is only for if you choose to use your own turn-on wire; then the "GTO" jumper must be moved to the "Bypass" position.

The coaxial cables from the "Bass Output L/R" go to the sub amp, not the sub itself. See this photo from after I moved the amp. The "Main Output" jacks are for if you are adding full-range amplifiers to power your main speakers. If you decide to use them in the future, then you'll need to find a different source for the speaker inputs because the Fender subwoofer speaker wires are passing low frequencies only.

The three knobs: I've played with amps for years, but I'm not a sound engineer. So I'm only going to share what worked and makes sense for me. I left "AccuBass" and "Main" to their default/center positions. Having "AccuBass" in its center position must be why I don't experience any "bass roll-off" at higher volumes. I've found no need to mess with this adjustment. Technically, "Main" is not used in my configuration; so its position is irrelevant. Turn "Bass" to minimum! The Fender speaker inputs are so hot that the sub will blow you away when you turn on your stereo. Trust me on this, especially if you're using an amp that's more powerful than my 200-watt amp. In fact, turn the gain (or "input sensitivity") on your amp to minimum, too. Almost forgot: Place your sub's remote control knob in its **maximum** (rewrite) position. Technically, it's an attenuator. So you're okay there.

====Begin Rewrite====
This is a rewrite after seeing the following statement in my amp's user manual: "Best signal to noise and dynamic range are realized with the gain at minimum. Most users find adequate gain and volume is achieved at about halfway in the adjustment range."

With that said, turn on your system and see what you hear. Play the type of music you play most often. Play it at a "satisfying" level, not low, but not super-loud. You may want to increase the sub's output... or maybe you'll already like it. Don't touch that remote control knob unless it's already far too loud! Leave the LC2i be, too.

Remember, the remote knob is at maximum. So now we're going to tune the amp for ridiculous bass... as high as you can stand without distortion. Don't worry... we'll turn it back down later. Go someplace where you won't disturb anyone. I have no doubt you've already played the system at various levels. Now's the time to crank the music up nice and loud. I chose about 3/4 of the way up. My system already sounded pretty good with the LC2i and amp gain set to their minimum positions. But I wanted to tune the inputs to as high as it would go without distortion. If your amp has an indicator that tells you if the signal is too high (clipping), use it. Mine does not; so I had to do this by ear. I slowly turned up the amp's gain until I heard bass distortion... just a little. That was right at halfway. I backed off just a hair. The light distortion I could hear while standing next to the sub with the trunk open is not perceivable from inside the car. PERFECT, especially since I never listen this loud at any other time. If you're not distorting/clipping with the gain set halfway, stop and then slowly increase the "Bass" knob on the LC2i. I really think you'll find your sweet spot with this method. Or, if the bass is already overpowering on a truly asinine level, then stop there. Personally, I didn't need to increase the LC2i's Bass setting. My goal when doing it this way was to have the amp work with a smaller signal rather than risk over-driving it with a larger signal, particularly one that might be clipped. I can imagine a 500-watt amp will work nicely without need of a large signal from the LC2i.

Next, get into the car and decrease the level of your remote knob until it sounds the way you like it. My original method was to tune the bass so that my knob was centered all of the time. But the reality was that turning the knob past 3/4 just resulted in bass distortion. Now my knob normally sits at about 5/8-to-3/4, but can be turned to max and still achieve "too much sub," all without distortion. What's also good is that now I can almost eliminate sub-bass altogether by turning my remote knob to minimum. Why would anyone want that? I'm not sure, other than a demonstration. But it may be handy someday.
====End of Rewrite====

My LC2i's "Bass" knob is at minimum and the amp's gain is halfway. I can still get a hint of distortion at the volumes I use only when demonstrating the system. It sounds fine at less-than-stupid levels. It would probably sound cleaner with a more powerful system. However, I don't think I need it at this point. I may squeeze a 12-inch sub and 400W amp back there someday.

Have Fun!

Scott

Original directions below, if you still want them...

From there, turn on your system and see what you hear. Play the type of music you play most often. Play it at a "satisfying" level, not low, but not super-loud. You'll undoubtedly want to increase the sub's output. Don't touch that remote control knob! Leave the LC2i be, too. Start by increasing the gain ("input sensitivity") on the amplifier. Slowly increase the gain until you get where you want to be. If you turn up gain to about 2/3rds and still want more, stop and then slowly increase the "Bass" knob on the LC2i. I really think you'll find your sweet spot with this method. My goal when doing it this way was to have the amp work with a smaller signal rather than risk over-driving it with a larger signal, particularly one that might be clipped.

Turn it up to see if your settings still sound good... perhaps about 3/4 of the way. Make fine adjustments as needed at the amp/LC2i. My LC2i's "Bass" knob is at an imaginary "2" and the amp's gain is at an imaginary "7" (or 2/3rds). I can still get distortion at the volumes I use only when demonstrating the system. It sounds fine at less-than-stupid levels. It would probably sound cleaner with a more powerful system. However, I don't think I need it at this point. I may squeeze a 12-inch sub and 400W amp back there someday.

Now, about that remote control knob - It's in the center position so that's where it'll be when playing what you like most. Being centered, you'll have plenty of room to turn it up or down if another genre or different quality of recording needs some temporary compensation. Another thing I like about the center position as default is that it's super-easy for me to put the knob back exactly where I know the system sounds best... at least until my tastes change and I make more adjustments... [which they have].

 

[Stealth TDI]

Hello,

There's room for improvement. I'm investigating whether the plastic battery box is large enough to cover all of this up with minor adjustments. I hope to know soon.

I'm 99% done. So that you don't have to click through the previous pages, here's what I've done to clean up the battery connection. I've gone from this:

To this:

And now this:

The new box is a slightly different shade of black. But it'll blend in after some heat cycles and engine bay cleanings. I have a few minor things to finish with wire routing. But this project is otherwise done.

Thanks for following along...

Scott

 

[Stealth TDI]

Hello,

I decided I wanted to re-adjust my settings to make greater use of the remote knob. Plus, I found my old amplifier's owner's manual. It contains this statement:

Best signal to noise and dynamic range are realized with the gain at minimum. Most users find adequate gain and volume is achieved at about halfway in the adjustment range.

Reading that compelled me to retune the amp's gain down from 2/3 to 1/2. I also decreased the LC2i's Bass adjustment to minimum so I could operate the remote knob higher in its range. This also resulted in me having the ability to almost completely remove sub bass if I ever wanted.

I've made a major edit to post #28 to reflect my adjustment procedure.

Scott