Replacing Battery

[Hobbes22]

The battery in my 2015 Golf S TDI 6MT died. The dealer claims that the computer should be told I have a new battery (even though it is identical specs) so it doesn't overcharge and shorten the battery life.

Is this really the case? With tax the dealer charged me $163 for the battery. At $70 for the dealer to reprogram, the battery life would need to be cut nearly in half for reprogramming to pay for itself.

Also, I thought I read that programming for a new battery was only needed for cars with auto start/stop?

So is all this dealer BS or needed?

 

[hskrdu]

Do you have VCDS? BEM coding can be DIY. Did you change battery type, or from the smaller 61ah to larger 72ah?

 

[Hobbes22]

I do not have VCDS. The battery type is staying at 61ah.

Origninal battery is 5KO 915 105 E and replacement is 000 915 105 DE
Both are 61ah 330A 540A

 

[pedroYUL]

I changed the battery in my 2015 Golf Sportwagen S...no need to plug anything using VCDS

 

[hskrdu]

If you replaced like with like, the only thing VW (or you) would do is update the battery serial number. They can't make any other changes since the Ah is the same. There have been some discussions (elsewhere) that it is helpful to "tell" the battery energy management (BEM) system that a new battery has been installed (via updated serial number), but lots of people are skeptical of this.

Just FYI, others have posted that correct replacement for your 61Ah battery is actually the 72Ah version, and the dealer should have given you the larger one (although both parts numbers still pop up in their system). I recently replaced a smaller Mk7 battery with the larger (same price from VW), and just used the larger spacing that's available on battery tray. I used a coupon and all told it was like $135.

Here's a thread where VW defaulted to the larger size for TDI owners replacing the battery:

Battery upgrade DIY

Hello people, The battery in my wife's 2015 GSW S finally kicked the bucket, stamped date 12/15 which means this is the original battery fitted. I've read this thread, but the part numbers seemed confusing...

forums.tdiclub.com

Since you live in MI, it might be worth having them put in the larger battery. When I called a local dealer, the parts dept first gave the replacement part as the 61Ah battery made in Mexico, but they also had the 72Ah listed on their screen. I asked the parts person to check the larger battery, and it was the Varta, made in Germany. I've had great luck with the Varta over the years, and for the same price it's a no brainer.

Here's a good video from Ross Tech:

GolfDave's original thread for anyone who is interested:

How to retro-fit a bigger capacity battery to a Mk7 Golf

Disclaimer:- This info is for community usage. I am NOT affiliated to, or sponsored by, any company/individual to promote them or their products. Companies/individuals may NOT use my name, photos, or threads/technical guides, for financial or personal gain (fraudulent misrepresentation). Part 1...

www.golfmk7.com

 

[scooperhsd]

Your big difference to worry about - is the old battery lead / acid and new one AGM, or the reverse ? If so, battery coding might make a difference in charging.

 

[scooperhsd]

If they were looking at the 61 AH battery -- they were looking at one for a gasser. Our TDI's for 2015 need an H6 (72AH) battery, not a wimpy H5.

 

[hskrdu]

Your big difference to worry about - is the old battery lead / acid and new one AGM, or the reverse ? If so, battery coding might make a difference in charging.

I asked above about battery type, and the OP said it was the same.

If they were looking at the 61 AH battery -- they were looking at one for a gasser. Our TDI's for 2015 need an H6 (72AH) battery, not a wimpy H5.

Many (all?) 2015 TDIs came with an H5 fitted, which is why there are threads about upgrading to the H6, and why VW shows both p/n's as replacements.

 

[scooperhsd]

Mine FOR SURE came with an H6 (previously known as a Group 48) - and that is CONSISTENT with what my 2000 New Beetle ALH TDI used. It's not an "upgrade" fitting an H6 - it is finally putting the correct battery in there in the first place !!!! I had some dipshit at a Firestone try to put an H5 in my Golf "because it exceeded the CCA rating" - I told him BS and we will put the CORRECT battery in there tomorrow (it was about closing time). And we did - even if it did cost more !

 

[hskrdu]

scooper, I'm not saying that yours didn't come with an H6 (yes, aka a BCI Group 48), but as you can see from lots of posts here and elsewhere, many (most?) Mk7 TDIs came from the dealer (including both of ours) with 61Ah DIN H5's (also known as BCI Group 47). That's one reason why there are threads about it. Yes, your MkIV NB came with an H6, but let's remember that there wasn't consistency there either- the MkIV NB had an H6, while the other MkIV's came with an H7. The comparison isn't really relevant anyway, since the requirements of the 1.9 ALH don't necessarily match those of the Mk7 2.0 CRUA, and TDI battery sizes have varied even with similar engines, much less from 2000 to 2015. Anyway, I pulled the OE VW H5 (dated 2015) from (her) car last month and replaced with an H6, using the easy adjustment to the battery tray (a single bolt adjust the location of the hold down clamp). My Mk7 was a CPO, and the dealer replaced the H5 with an H6 as part of re-sale, along with fluids, filters, and brakes. The H5 in my CPO was also dated 2015, which is one reason why they changed it out- and I didn't even realize at the time the new one would be an H6.

I agree that VW "should" have designated a battery larger than the H5 for the CRUA straight from the get-go, but it seems common experience that cars came with an H5. Whether that was by design, or cost cutting, or mix-up, or a gasser/all cars designation, is beyond me.

 

[gearheadgrrrl]

IIRC unless your car has 2 negative cables coming from the battery no reprogramming is required. My 2015 Golf S came with an H5 and I upgraded to an H6, easy peasy just move the clamp and the usual install and works great. VW parts man didn't even know what an H6 was, all he knows is VW parts numbers. Went to Costco and looks like they've updated their computer so you don't have to tell them it's a gasser to buy a battery, tech there that sold it to me was a VW owner and knew all about the battery situation.

 

[JELLOWSUBMARINE]

Sorry for the ignorance here but is this only a 2015 CRUA thing or does it have relevance to my 11- 14 CJAA?

I had to replace my battery the 1st morning after bringing the 2011 CPO home (on the weekend of course). Best "flaps" battery avalible, a quick 10-15 feet later and all was reset ready to go. 14.2 volt charge, no issue what so ever yet. Year and a half and 20k miles. Should I be concerned or have the code thing looked into?

 

[scooperhsd]

There is NO ROOM in an ALH New Beetle to fit a 94R battery like the Jettas and Golfs had - The Group 48 was as big as you could go. OTOH - if you couldn't find a 94R, the Jettas and Golfs could put in a Group 48 and know that it can do the job (i.e. same battery as TDI New Beetle).

 

[hskrdu]

Sorry for the ignorance here but is this only a 2015 CRUA thing or does it have relevance to my 11- 14 CJAA?

I had to replace my battery the 1st morning after bringing the 2011 CPO home (on the weekend of course). Best "flaps" battery avalible, a quick 10-15 feet later and all was reset ready to go. 14.2 volt charge, no issue what so ever yet. Year and a half and 20k miles. Should I be concerned or have the code thing looked into?

Jellow- I skipped over the Mk6, so the owners in the subforum may have better answers for you. When you say "code" do you mean you are getting a fault code? Or maybe you mean battery coding via VCDS after the new battery? As I understand it, the coding is only needed if you have battery energy management system (BEM), and if you change the type of battery (lead acid to AGM, for example). Some owners have said to change the coding even if you just replace the battery (like with like), or if you change the Ah, as the BEM system tells the car how to best charge the battery. Other posts (elsewhere) have said that simply changing the serial number when a new battery is installed tells the BEM to learn how to best charge the new system. For those that say they change the battery and did no coding, so therefore it isn't necessary, well, we've seen people do lots of maintenance without the suggested VCDS procedures. Sometimes it works, and sometimes it doesn't.

The Ross Tech video I linked above is helpful. Here's a video Scott made (formerly StealthTDI) coding his GTI (or a Golf) after an AGM battery install:

 

[hskrdu]

There is NO ROOM in an ALH New Beetle to fit a 94R battery like the Jettas and Golfs had - The Group 48 was as big as you could go. OTOH - if you couldn't find a 94R, the Jettas and Golfs could put in a Group 48 and know that it can do the job (i.e. same battery as TDI New Beetle).

Yes, I think we are tracking that the shape, space, and design of the NB forced VW to put a smaller, lower Ah battery in, but if there had been enough physical space, it likely would have received the same H7/94R that the Jetta, Golf, and Jetta wagon received. And (for any NB owners who are interested) you can fit a H7/94R into the New Beetle. It requires temporarily removing the power steering reservoir for install, and not using the OE battery plastics. ktmkris posted about his H7 NB install as have some others. I only know this because Oilhammer got me intrigued after a recent MkIV battery swap project, and I started researching.

 

[JELLOWSUBMARINE]

Jellow- When you say "code" do you mean you are getting a fault code? Or maybe you mean battery coding via VCDS after the new battery?

As I understand it, the coding is only needed if you have battery energy management system (BEM), and if you change the type of battery (lead acid to AGM, for example).

No code present. Just wondering if I dodged a bullet as it has normal charging voltage & no issues. Does the mk6 have BEM? I forget if I went AGM or not,I don't think so but ill check.

 

[Hobbes22]

New battery installed Monday after work. Way easier than on my '06 Bug. When I took the car for a spin at lunch today the check engine light turned off. This was after putting on just over 40 miles and starting the car about 5 times total.

 

[hskrdu]

No code present. Just wondering if I dodged a bullet as it has normal charging voltage & no issues. Does the mk6 have BEM? I forget if I went AGM or not,I don't think so but ill check.

I don't know the Mk6 well enough to say, but the Mk6 forum peeps could tell you for sure. The AGM battery is usually quite a bit more expensive, so you might remember based on cost. I doubt failure to properly code the BEM would ever fall on the dodge-a-bullet end of things for NA cars (since we don't have many start/stop systems), just less efficient charging, etc.

 

[hskrdu]

New battery installed Monday after work. Way easier than on my '06 Bug. When I took the car for a spin at lunch today the check engine light turned off. This was after putting on just over 40 miles and starting the car about 5 times total.

Awesome!

 

[Lightflyer1]

I don't know the Mk6 well enough to say, but the Mk6 forum peeps could tell you for sure. The AGM battery is usually quite a bit more expensive, so you might remember based on cost. I doubt failure to properly code the BEM would ever fall on the dodge-a-bullet end of things for NA cars (since we don't have many start/stop systems), just less efficient charging, etc.

AGM batteries require a different charging profile than lead acid batteries do. Shortens their life if not charged correctly. Not something you want to do to a more expensive battery.

agm charging profile - Google Search

 

[hskrdu]

AGM batteries require a different charging profile than lead acid batteries do. Shortens their life if not charged correctly. Not something you want to do to a more expensive battery.

Right, which is why I noted the cost of the AGM and that not coding the BEM would result in less efficient charging.

The larger point to JELLO was that failure to do the coding is not the equivalent of dodging a bullet. Shorter battery life? Maybe. Dodging a bullet? No.

From what I've read about the BEM system, it's most critical for cars with start/stop and some of the mostly-euro-VW options.

Lightflyer, do you know the answer to JELLO's Mk6 question? I skipped those years except for test drives.

 

[RyanWalker12]

I don't know where to ask this question. What are signs of a low battery. Today I started the car and as soon as I pulled away. The tire sensor, ecs lights came on. And also a hesitation when applying throttle for a moment. So I drove down the block and turned it off then turned it back on and no lights. The car drove fine(drove her for 15min). Is the a sign of a battery dying?

 

[hskrdu]

I don't know where to ask this question. What are signs of a low battery. Today I started the car and as soon as I pulled away. The tire sensor, ecs lights came on. And also a hesitation when applying throttle for a moment. So I drove down the block and turned it off then turned it back on and no lights. The car drove fine(drove her for 15min). Is the a sign of a battery dying?

I would post in either the Passat forum or 101. A search first is always best, so that you know what others will ask, and what to check yourself to help eliminate variables. Troubleshooting electrical issues can be difficult from afar, and the scenario you describe could be lots of things, including related to the battery. I would search in three areas: Understanding and troubleshooting battery/alt issues, symptoms similar to yours in the Passat, and symptoms similar to yours in other models. Whitedog's "car won't start" sticky is that top of the 101 thread, and is a good read to understand many battery/charging system issues, and what people will want to know. Also, adding the year to your model in your profile is helpful.

 

[pedroYUL]

I don't know where to ask this question. What are signs of a low battery. Today I started the car and as soon as I pulled away. The tire sensor, ecs lights came on. And also a hesitation when applying throttle for a moment. So I drove down the block and turned it off then turned it back on and no lights. The car drove fine(drove her for 15min). Is the a sign of a battery dying?

Which year that Passat, NMS 2012+?

It could be injector balance