Replacement Turbo for 1Z

dbenzmaine

Active member
Joined
Dec 27, 2006
Location
New York City
TDI
None yet
Hi All,
I have a 97 B4V with a 1Z engine in it. Recently the waste gate on the turbo stuck open and stopped functioning. Turbo is original. The engine is basically unmodified. I'm looking to replace the turbo with a new one, and i'm not sure what i should buy. Any suggestions on where to look? I'm not looking to boost more or tune it. My primary goals are staying out of limp mode and fuel economy. Thanks for any suggestions!
 

Mongler98

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Mar 23, 2011
Location
COLORADO (SE of Denver)
TDI
98 Jetta TDI AHU 1.9L (944 TDI swap in progress) I moved so now i got nothing but an AHU in a garage on a pallet.
replace the $30 actuator
motor on.
OR spend a few grand on a k03/k04 "upgrade" as its bolt on with what you have. there are other options but they all need some modification and at least a custom downpipe to fit.
IMO unless you are looking for power, just keep with what you have.
if you want better MPG, go with a stage 1.5 upgrade on the nozzles and a light tune from malone.
 

PassatLife

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 27, 2019
Location
Coquitlam, BC
TDI
1996 Passat Tdi Wagon
If the wastegate itself is stuck you could try spraying something in to loosen up the carbon/lube it. Apply pressure to the actuator first though to verify that its moving, cause thats a $30 fix as stated above. Otherwise your only bolt on options are Kermas K03/K04 upgrade, a new/used K03 or Xmans K03 w/ GT1749 internals
 

Mongler98

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Mar 23, 2011
Location
COLORADO (SE of Denver)
TDI
98 Jetta TDI AHU 1.9L (944 TDI swap in progress) I moved so now i got nothing but an AHU in a garage on a pallet.
The solenoid fires?
You have an actuator that operated in boost.
These things get rusty and crusty and whatever. Forget trying to lube it up... maybe that's why it's on fire!
Take it off. If the arm on the turbo moves then just replace the stupid actuator.
You have no idea if the turbo is bad. Have you tested the end play? You mention no excess oil loss.


Take the I take boot off the turbo and wiggle the shaft with your fingers WITH THE ENGINE OFF. It should have a small almost unnoticeable side to side and nearly NO back and forth movement. If it has lots of back and forth movement then the turbo is near the end of its life. Some side to side is 100% normal. It's a journal bearing and when oil pressure builds it floats in there nice and strait.

Unless you have oil pouring out of your exhaust.... or you see a lot ... like more than a cup ..... of oil drain from the intercooler.... the turbo is fine. These babies will go for 500k miles no problem.

Forget rockauto.

If you insist on throwing parts at a problem you have no details or vocabulary for... go to kerma or darkside or ID parts or German auto parts and so on (our trusted venders) and buy a proper replacment. But for the $ and labor. Do the upgrade and a tune.
 

Steve Addy

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 7, 2002
Location
Iowa
TDI
97 Mk3
Unfortunately the solenoid still fires, and i don't think the actuator is broken. I haven't tried lubing the wastegate though. I see that rockauto has several listed options for turbos at around $500 a pop. Anyone know if these would bolt on?

Before I'd call your turbo dead I'd want to see what the compressor wheel looked like and see if I couldn't lubricate and get the wastegate working again. There's a lot of commentary on here about stuck actuator levers and I know people who've gotten them working again by lubricating with PB Blaster or Kroil and then working them with a wrench.

If the turbo doesn't need to be replaced I wouldn't do it, and if you're only wanting it to work again I wouldn't bother with an upgrade when you likely could get this one in good order by spending some labor effort on it.

Steve
 

Mongler98

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Mar 23, 2011
Location
COLORADO (SE of Denver)
TDI
98 Jetta TDI AHU 1.9L (944 TDI swap in progress) I moved so now i got nothing but an AHU in a garage on a pallet.
Why is everyone so heck bent on making a 20 plus rusted out stuck $30 part that takes 40 minutes to replace work again just to have it fail down the road.
Yea totally worth doing in AutoZone or Walmart parking lot on the rest of your road trip or until you can get a replacement but dang yawl
 

Steve Addy

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 7, 2002
Location
Iowa
TDI
97 Mk3
Why is everyone so heck bent on making a 20 plus rusted out stuck $30 part that takes 40 minutes to replace work again just to have it fail down the road.
Yea totally worth doing in AutoZone or Walmart parking lot on the rest of your road trip or until you can get a replacement but dang yawl
The problem is rarely with the actuator...it's with a stuck waste gate. That's why people have been encouraging the OP to try and free the stuck waste gate or at least verify what is actually broken before throwing money at some new part.

If he replaces a working actuator with a new working actuator and it doesn't solve the problem...because the lever at the gate is stuck, then it's a lot of wasted effort and misspent money.

And it seems you're quite free with spending other people's money aren't you?

Steve
 

Abacus

That helpful B4 guy
Joined
Nov 10, 2007
Location
Relocated from Maine to Dewey, AZ
TDI
Only the B4V left
Exactly, Steve. I've freed up a number of turbo wastegates with great success, and there was nothing wrong with the actuator. The turbos just caked up from people shifting them at an rpm too low, coking it up.

Why pull it off in the first place, diagnose it and IF it's the issue, then correct it.
 
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