Rebuild will not start HELP!

[jeepinblackdog]

I have mine set at 4.8 the higher the number the leaner the engine runs, right?

 

[turbocharged798]

My rebuilt ALH had like 475 across all four...

 

[jokila]

Not wanting to hijack this thread , but as a colollary query , how does one reset the IQ?? I have a good running 2003 tdi with stage 1 Malone with the IQ at 2.2.... some light smoke which I could do without. Fuel consumption is 45-48 mpg, which I cant complain about but this is Canadian gallons which of course are 25% bigger than US gallons so the reported 50 mpg from US users gets my attention. I believe something in the range 3.5 -5.0 might be worth trying

Use VCDS. Look up Hammer Mod procedure. If you cannot adjust the IQ enough through VCDS you can loosen the IP top cover screws slightly and adjust manually.

 

[jeepinblackdog]

My rebuilt ALH had like 475 across all four...

When they put my head on they used a 3 hole gasket instead of a 2 hole. Would that make the compression lower?

I have my IQ set at 4.8 the higher the number the leaner the engine runs, right?

 

[sisyphus]

The head gasket thickness is based on piston protrusion into the head. Too thick would have an effect on cold starts IIRC but I think it would at least start.

 

[jokila]

When they put my head on they used a 3 hole gasket instead of a 2 hole. Would that make the compression lower?

I have my IQ set at 4.8 the higher the number the leaner the engine runs, right?

See post #8 for info on how to select a gasket. Hopefully, they made a good choice.

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=306773

 

[jeepinblackdog]

The head gasket thickness is based on piston protrusion into the head. Too thick would have an effect on cold starts IIRC but I think it would at least start.

It runs now. But it smokes at startup. And I smell fuel

 

[sisyphus]

How'd you get it to run?

 

[jeepinblackdog]

timing was off, by 2 teeth on the flywheel. retimed it and it started up after about 10 rev. But it starts up rough and smoke a lot a startup. Smell like its over fueling. I have my IQ set at 4.8. Should I go higher?

 

[Vince Waldon]

Was the camshaft sprocket loose and able to turn freely as you tensioned the timing belt with all the alignment jigs in place?

 

[sisyphus]

The IQ setting is mg/stroke. So if you crank it up you're going richer. I seem to recall a thread about a slow-down shudder fix that was about changing the IQ. I did it to my cars and it worked but from what I remember, if you're changing it the ECU will compensate to allow the right amount of air. All you need to do is change one thing. So if you add fuel, it will request more air.
If you're running stock nozzles set it at 3, no lower.

 

[jokila]

The IQ setting is mg/stroke. So if you crank it up you're going richer. I seem to recall a thread about a slow-down shudder fix that was about changing the IQ. I did it to my cars and it worked but from what I remember, if you're changing it the ECU will compensate to allow the right amount of air. All you need to do is change one thing. So if you add fuel, it will request more air.
If you're running stock nozzles set it at 3, no lower.

You have it wrong on the IQ setting.

from myturbodiesel.com:

"Rules for adjusting IQ and the QA's reactionThe normal range for IQ value on a stock, unmodified car is 3-5 mg/str at idle and 36-38 at full throttle. Too low and the car is overfueling, too high and the car is underfueling.
If you want less fuel you want a higher IQ value, lower software adaptation number, QA moves left towards fuel filter (passenger side for left hand drive cars).
If you want more fuel you want a lower IQ value, higher software adaptation number, QA moves right towards battery (driver's side for left hand drive cars)."

 

[jeepinblackdog]

You have it wrong on the IQ setting.

from myturbodiesel.com:

"Rules for adjusting IQ and the QA's reactionThe normal range for IQ value on a stock, unmodified car is 3-5 mg/str at idle and 36-38 at full throttle. Too low and the car is overfueling, too high and the car is underfueling.
If you want less fuel you want a higher IQ value, lower software adaptation number, QA moves left towards fuel filter (passenger side for left hand drive cars).
If you want more fuel you want a lower IQ value, higher software adaptation number, QA moves right towards battery (driver's side for left hand drive cars)."

Thats what i thought , I have it set to 5.5 (was at 4.8) and it doesnt smoke as much at startup and seems to run better with more power.

 

[jokila]

Thats what i thought , I have it set to 5.5 (was at 4.8) and it doesnt smoke as much at startup and seems to run better with more power.

How is the IP timing now? Do you have it set in the middle of the graph (VCDS)?

 

[Franko6]

As for IP (injection Pump) timing and IQ (Injection Quantity), the right number for timing the IP should be right at 50, but we don't make any qualms about setting it at 65 for a brand new belt. In a few thousand miles, it will stretch the belt and go back to 50, so, we set it once and call it good. Advanced timing starts the engine easier.

As for IQ, it really is as individual as the injectors. Age, miles, 'alternative fuel' type, and any mods will change the IQ setting. Years ago, we developed a formula which works very well for setting IQ.

You will need a VCDS and basic tools like the torx that loosens the two top covers on the Injection Pump (IP) so you can move the setting of the Injection Quantity (IQ).

For those who do not have the security bolt tool, we have devised a tool that is `1) inexpensive and 2) easy to make. Find a 1/4" drive 7mm 6-point socket. You will need a die grinder, air supply and a small carbide grinder (or a buddy who has them). We use a 'Christmas Tree" carbide. You can get a great set of 6 carbide cutters from Grizzly Tools Catalog sales. Make the 6 point socket into a triangle tool by grinding out the 7mm socket until you have a 'triangle' tool. Keep fitting against the Security screw until it fits tight. We generally use a hand impact hammer to loosen the security bolt, as it has a tendency to be very tight and strip. It can be replaced with a torx screw. We stock the screw if you want one.

Plug in the VCDS and start the program. Make sure all fans/ AC, headlights etc are turned off. Go to Engine Module/ Adaptations/ Log in12233 and then go to #4 adapation. Block 2. ( I have to check myself on this. Not sure I have the number right) Read IQ number. Move the number to a lower number to make it smoke. If it can't smoke, it can't run. Loosen all the torx screws on the IP to the point you can move the two IP covers by striking the cover with a plastic mallet; not so loose it leaks fuel. Driving the lids towards the driver side makes the IQ number lower and that means more fuel. Raise the IQ (toward the passenger direction) to reduce smoke. Road test...

Find a flat, quiet road that you can drive 45mph without getting introduced to the local police force...

Drive the vehicle to 35mph in third gear. Go to WOT (wide open throttle). At 40 mph, count 3 seconds on stop watch and check mph. On average, it should be 52-54 mph. Raise IQ by either hammer mod or adjusting from engine adaptation section in VCDS to a higher IQ number. Road test. When you lose MPH, lower the IQ number until performance is recovered.

That is the way we optimize fuel economy for the AHU and ALH engines.

After years of doing 'our thing', we have found there is no 'one number' that is right, as there are too many variables.

 

[sisyphus]

I stand corrected. But offer this:
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=350996

 

[jokila]

I stand corrected. But offer this:
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=350996

Yeah. The way he describes it is flawed. It's the ratio of fuel to air that is affected by the IQ adjustment. He says, "The results appear to show that Lowering IQ with adaptation will cause the engine computer to request - and get less air."

It's not the lowering of air by the computer (how would it do that with the ALH?), it's the delivery of more fuel which is in effect being rich.

 

[sisyphus]

Aaaauuugh. This hurts my head anymore. Thanks for clearing that up!

 

[jokila]

As for IP (injection Pump) timing and IQ (Injection Quantity), the right number for timing the IP should be right at 50, but we don't make any qualms about setting it at 65 for a brand new belt. In a few thousand miles, it will stretch the belt and go back to 50, so, we set it once and call it good. Advanced timing starts the engine easier.

As for IQ, it really is as individual as the injectors. Age, miles, 'alternative fuel' type, and any mods will change the IQ setting. Years ago, we developed a formula which works very well for setting IQ.

You will need a VCDS and basic tools like the torx that loosens the two top covers on the Injection Pump (IP) so you can move the setting of the Injection Quantity (IQ).

For those who do not have the security bolt tool, we have devised a tool that is `1) inexpensive and 2) easy to make. Find a 1/4" drive 7mm 6-point socket. You will need a die grinder, air supply and a small carbide grinder (or a buddy who has them). We use a 'Christmas Tree" carbide. You can get a great set of 6 carbide cutters from Grizzly Tools Catalog sales. Make the 6 point socket into a triangle tool by grinding out the 7mm socket until you have a 'triangle' tool. Keep fitting against the Security screw until it fits tight. We generally use a hand impact hammer to loosen the security bolt, as it has a tendency to be very tight and strip. It can be replaced with a torx screw. We stock the screw if you want one.

Plug in the VCDS and start the program. Make sure all fans/ AC, headlights etc are turned off. Go to Engine Module/ Adaptations/ Log in12233 and then go to #4 adapation. Block 2. ( I have to check myself on this. Not sure I have the number right) Read IQ number. Move the number to a lower number to make it smoke. If it can't smoke, it can't run. Loosen all the torx screws on the IP to the point you can move the two IP covers by striking the cover with a plastic mallet; not so loose it leaks fuel. Driving the lids towards the driver side makes the IQ number lower and that means more fuel. Raise the IQ (toward the passenger direction) to reduce smoke. Road test...

Find a flat, quiet road that you can drive 45mph without getting introduced to the local police force...

Drive the vehicle to 35mph in third gear. Go to WOT (wide open throttle). At 40 mph, count 3 seconds on stop watch and check mph. On average, it should be 52-54 mph. Raise IQ by either hammer mod or adjusting from engine adaptation section in VCDS to a higher IQ number. Road test. When you lose MPH, lower the IQ number until performance is recovered.

That is the way we optimize fuel economy for the AHU and ALH engines.

After years of doing 'our thing', we have found there is no 'one number' that is right, as there are too many variables.

That's a great explanation of really making an optimum IQ. Sometimes it seems random how much you can set it to without seeing a noticeable effect. Your method makes it specific.

 

[turbovan+tdi]

Great writeup Frank.

PO, rings take along time to properly seat on a diesel, so recheck compression after 10-20,000 miles. Also, excessive cranking can glaze new cylinders.

 

[jeepinblackdog]

As for IP (injection Pump) timing and IQ (Injection Quantity), the right number for timing the IP should be right at 50, but we don't make any qualms about setting it at 65 for a brand new belt. In a few thousand miles, it will stretch the belt and go back to 50, so, we set it once and call it good. Advanced timing starts the engine easier.

As for IQ, it really is as individual as the injectors. Age, miles, 'alternative fuel' type, and any mods will change the IQ setting. Years ago, we developed a formula which works very well for setting IQ.

You will need a VCDS and basic tools like the torx that loosens the two top covers on the Injection Pump (IP) so you can move the setting of the Injection Quantity (IQ).

For those who do not have the security bolt tool, we have devised a tool that is `1) inexpensive and 2) easy to make. Find a 1/4" drive 7mm 6-point socket. You will need a die grinder, air supply and a small carbide grinder (or a buddy who has them). We use a 'Christmas Tree" carbide. You can get a great set of 6 carbide cutters from Grizzly Tools Catalog sales. Make the 6 point socket into a triangle tool by grinding out the 7mm socket until you have a 'triangle' tool. Keep fitting against the Security screw until it fits tight. We generally use a hand impact hammer to loosen the security bolt, as it has a tendency to be very tight and strip. It can be replaced with a torx screw. We stock the screw if you want one.

Plug in the VCDS and start the program. Make sure all fans/ AC, headlights etc are turned off. Go to Engine Module/ Adaptations/ Log in12233 and then go to #4 adapation. Block 2. ( I have to check myself on this. Not sure I have the number right) Read IQ number. Move the number to a lower number to make it smoke. If it can't smoke, it can't run. Loosen all the torx screws on the IP to the point you can move the two IP covers by striking the cover with a plastic mallet; not so loose it leaks fuel. Driving the lids towards the driver side makes the IQ number lower and that means more fuel. Raise the IQ (toward the passenger direction) to reduce smoke. Road test...

Find a flat, quiet road that you can drive 45mph without getting introduced to the local police force...

Drive the vehicle to 35mph in third gear. Go to WOT (wide open throttle). At 40 mph, count 3 seconds on stop watch and check mph. On average, it should be 52-54 mph. Raise IQ by either hammer mod or adjusting from engine adaptation section in VCDS to a higher IQ number. Road test. When you lose MPH, lower the IQ number until performance is recovered.

That is the way we optimize fuel economy for the AHU and ALH engines.

After years of doing 'our thing', we have found there is no 'one number' that is right, as there are too many variables.

That is GREAT info I will try that and see what I get. I have already done Hammer mod and can go as high as 7 IQ but never heard of a way to optimally set it. Thanks

 

[hughesjasonk]

As for IP (injection Pump) timing and IQ (Injection Quantity), the right number for timing the IP should be right at 50, but we don't make any qualms about setting it at 65 for a brand new belt. In a few thousand miles, it will stretch the belt and go back to 50, so, we set it once and call it good. Advanced timing starts the engine easier.

As for IQ, it really is as individual as the injectors. Age, miles, 'alternative fuel' type, and any mods will change the IQ setting. Years ago, we developed a formula which works very well for setting IQ.

You will need a VCDS and basic tools like the torx that loosens the two top covers on the Injection Pump (IP) so you can move the setting of the Injection Quantity (IQ).

For those who do not have the security bolt tool, we have devised a tool that is `1) inexpensive and 2) easy to make. Find a 1/4" drive 7mm 6-point socket. You will need a die grinder, air supply and a small carbide grinder (or a buddy who has them). We use a 'Christmas Tree" carbide. You can get a great set of 6 carbide cutters from Grizzly Tools Catalog sales. Make the 6 point socket into a triangle tool by grinding out the 7mm socket until you have a 'triangle' tool. Keep fitting against the Security screw until it fits tight. We generally use a hand impact hammer to loosen the security bolt, as it has a tendency to be very tight and strip. It can be replaced with a torx screw. We stock the screw if you want one.

Plug in the VCDS and start the program. Make sure all fans/ AC, headlights etc are turned off. Go to Engine Module/ Adaptations/ Log in12233 and then go to #4 adapation. Block 2. ( I have to check myself on this. Not sure I have the number right) Read IQ number. Move the number to a lower number to make it smoke. If it can't smoke, it can't run. Loosen all the torx screws on the IP to the point you can move the two IP covers by striking the cover with a plastic mallet; not so loose it leaks fuel. Driving the lids towards the driver side makes the IQ number lower and that means more fuel. Raise the IQ (toward the passenger direction) to reduce smoke. Road test...

Find a flat, quiet road that you can drive 45mph without getting introduced to the local police force...

Drive the vehicle to 35mph in third gear. Go to WOT (wide open throttle). At 40 mph, count 3 seconds on stop watch and check mph. On average, it should be 52-54 mph. Raise IQ by either hammer mod or adjusting from engine adaptation section in VCDS to a higher IQ number. Road test. When you lose MPH, lower the IQ number until performance is recovered.

That is the way we optimize fuel economy for the AHU and ALH engines.

After years of doing 'our thing', we have found there is no 'one number' that is right, as there are too many variables.

What speed would you suggest for an auto?

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

 

[jeepinblackdog]

So did the 3rd gear thing and speed (63mph after 3 seconds) and power kept getting better to 7.0 QI and ran out of adjustment. Will need to Hammer mod it to get more. Is it uncommon to need to go that high or is it due to the 1019 injector tips?

 

[[486]]

Hopefully you didnt hit valves to pistons with that incorrect cam to crank timing......

Mine was 11 starter ring gear teeth retarded and I drove it 10-15 miles like that. Had to torch the intake manifold to get it started.

 

[jeepinblackdog]

Mine was 11 starter ring gear teeth retarded and I drove it 10-15 miles like that. Had to torch the intake manifold to get it started.

What do you mean torch the intake manifold

 

[turbovan+tdi]

What do you mean torch the intake manifold

Think grid heater ala Cummin's.

 

[[486]]

What do you mean torch the intake manifold

propane plumbing torch to bring the intake manifold from "lick it, it'll stick" to something more around the range of "don't touch that, it's real heavy"