Rear main seal, teflon vs old school

Steve Addy

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 7, 2002
Location
Iowa
TDI
97 Mk3
Hey all
I have been debating this issue for a while now and I've not come to any resolution yet.

The replacement rear main seals per VW are the teflon type but I know over the years that people have commented that in some cases the seals failed almost immediately creating a big headache because it must be dealt with right away.

The option is to use the older viton type seal that gets inserted into the rear seal cover, which if installed with proper lubricant rarely ever has a problem.

While the former is considered to be an advancement, the latter is easier to do and do right because it's a conventional type seal, like the front CS, IS and camshaft seals.

Any opinion about the rear main seal replacements?

Thx
Steve A
 

KLXD

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 22, 2009
Location
Lompoc, CA
TDI
'98, '2 Jettas
I'm askeered of them. I read they're supposed to be installed dry which goes agin normal practice.

Maybe all the failures are due to folks unknowingly lubing them and realistically, how can you guarantee it stays dry until run on an installation like that in an old vehicle.

I might try one on a cam but not a rear main.

You know what opinions are like...
 

Mongler98

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Mar 23, 2011
Location
COLORADO (SE of Denver)
TDI
98 Jetta TDI AHU 1.9L (944 TDI swap in progress) I moved so now i got nothing but an AHU in a garage on a pallet.
TLDR:
whatever was used that got most of these engines to 300K+
 

Abacus

That helpful B4 guy
Joined
Nov 10, 2007
Location
Relocated from Maine to Dewey, AZ
TDI
Only the B4V left
I’ve installed a number of them, always the teflon, and never had an issue. I even installed my first one wet and did not have an issue. I have received them with the mounting plastic flange backwards and been able to remove and insert it the correct way. I have no issue using them and keep a few on the shelf for those emergency cases where a car shows up on a weekend. Better to have one and not need it than...you know the rest. The only stipulation is they have to sit for a time (if memory serves, a minimum of 4 hours) before starting the car. Never been an issue with me.
 

ToddA1

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 3, 2011
Location
NJ 08002
TDI
'96 B4V, '97 B4 (sold), '97 Jetta (scrapped)
As mentioned dry/clean installation and a time interval is needed. I used one on the project car, but also bought the old style for the latest car.

If your crank doesn’t have a wear groove, I’d probably just go with the old style with the spring, or seat the seal in an area, where there isn’t a wear groove.

I think the only benefit is no spring and no potential for a wear groove.

-Todd
 
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