jackfolstam
Veteran Member
1999.5 Jetta ALH
Hey guys what do you think about this one:
I drove the car 40 miles, 5 miles city 33 miles highway. 2 miles city, and had a problem in the last mile. Twice at stop signs when shifting from first to second, the RPMs revved during the shift and the exhaust blew a cloud of smoke. I thought at first it could have been driver error. Then driving a mile to lunch and back no problems, but going to dinner 2 miles out same thing once but when coming to a stop, a random rev and a cloud of smoke. Then, when driving the 40 miles home, it did the thing again at mile 2 during the 1 2 shift but I kept the clutch pushed in instead of continuing in second, and the engine died. It did it again when trying to pull away; I played with the pedal and could keep it running by blipping the throttle but it died when I didn't touch it. I fired it back up and took it real easy with the 1 2 shift and made it back home with no other issues.
Recent changes:
Last weekend changed the drippy uro parts PCV tube out with a diverter valve soft hose I got from a Mk1 TT in the junkyard, I was thinking the original pcv valve is plastic so it does not collapse and the rubber one is somehow causing the problem. So I put the leaky tube back in and we'll see. I think the only way a collapsing pcv valve, if that can actually happen, is if during deceleration or RPM drop the engine pulls vacuum on that and it closes, but then what, why would it die or why would it continue to run if I touched the throttle, and then die still? I've had a catch can clog completely and then everything run fine, except have a blown front main seal/blown turbo seals to vent the pressure. And why not the same issues during any other shift?
I have a 270k mile motor and have had a surging issue at 1350rpm since I got the car with 200k and just have dealt with it but recently thought about fixing it. Two weeks ago I changed out the dbw pedal with a 100k mile jy unit with no effect. If putting back the old pcv tube doesn't fix it I'll also put back the old pedal.
3 weeks ago I changed the IQ from 2.0 to 5.0 to see if it would change the surging, it did not.
At the same time I checked the vcds timing and it was right in the middle.
Otherwise, it's a new problem. I took off the timing belt cover and at first glance all is correct. I mean it's a specific problem, even though I haven't found all of the scenarios that which causes it, because I'm worried I will damage something while testing,it seem like there are few things that would cause such a specific problem of the engine dying during a 1 2 shift that I can rule out a lot of things such as a bad MAF, crank position sensor, etc. To think even more specifically, maybe a there was physically something hitting the dbw pedal but I've been wearing the same shoes for a long time and there is nothing new in the driver footwell to interfere with the pedal.
Hey guys what do you think about this one:
I drove the car 40 miles, 5 miles city 33 miles highway. 2 miles city, and had a problem in the last mile. Twice at stop signs when shifting from first to second, the RPMs revved during the shift and the exhaust blew a cloud of smoke. I thought at first it could have been driver error. Then driving a mile to lunch and back no problems, but going to dinner 2 miles out same thing once but when coming to a stop, a random rev and a cloud of smoke. Then, when driving the 40 miles home, it did the thing again at mile 2 during the 1 2 shift but I kept the clutch pushed in instead of continuing in second, and the engine died. It did it again when trying to pull away; I played with the pedal and could keep it running by blipping the throttle but it died when I didn't touch it. I fired it back up and took it real easy with the 1 2 shift and made it back home with no other issues.
Recent changes:
Last weekend changed the drippy uro parts PCV tube out with a diverter valve soft hose I got from a Mk1 TT in the junkyard, I was thinking the original pcv valve is plastic so it does not collapse and the rubber one is somehow causing the problem. So I put the leaky tube back in and we'll see. I think the only way a collapsing pcv valve, if that can actually happen, is if during deceleration or RPM drop the engine pulls vacuum on that and it closes, but then what, why would it die or why would it continue to run if I touched the throttle, and then die still? I've had a catch can clog completely and then everything run fine, except have a blown front main seal/blown turbo seals to vent the pressure. And why not the same issues during any other shift?
I have a 270k mile motor and have had a surging issue at 1350rpm since I got the car with 200k and just have dealt with it but recently thought about fixing it. Two weeks ago I changed out the dbw pedal with a 100k mile jy unit with no effect. If putting back the old pcv tube doesn't fix it I'll also put back the old pedal.
3 weeks ago I changed the IQ from 2.0 to 5.0 to see if it would change the surging, it did not.
At the same time I checked the vcds timing and it was right in the middle.
Otherwise, it's a new problem. I took off the timing belt cover and at first glance all is correct. I mean it's a specific problem, even though I haven't found all of the scenarios that which causes it, because I'm worried I will damage something while testing,it seem like there are few things that would cause such a specific problem of the engine dying during a 1 2 shift that I can rule out a lot of things such as a bad MAF, crank position sensor, etc. To think even more specifically, maybe a there was physically something hitting the dbw pedal but I've been wearing the same shoes for a long time and there is nothing new in the driver footwell to interfere with the pedal.