TurboABA
Top Post Dawg
From mother Russia.... even though I'm not from there LOL
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#16
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Well the one in the head should read operating temperature. And the one in the coolant line will read below operating temperature until the thermostat opens. And it may have only been reading weird because I was using obd11 instead of vag com. I have a sensor with me in case it goes out. But I don't know how much I trust a import direct sensorHere's my 3L dramafest chasing that mofo down.....
2014 TDI CNRB - overheating "allegedly"
My '14 started running hot according to the cluster temp gauge on a 1.5 hr drive in hot ambient temps (90f), on cruise at 60mph. The guage read a consistent 220-230 for most of the trip. I tried running the cabin heat on full, turning the A/C off, slowing down, etc. Even sitting at a traffic...forums.tdiclub.com
If you had read my troubleshooting, you would've seen that it's unclear what each of the sensors does or where it sends the signal to. The ecu seems to combine readings and do weird things that don't seem to be documented. If you suspect your sensor is the issue and don't want to do readings off each of them to compare, try unplugging one of them and see if your symptom changes, etc.Well the one in the head should read operating temperature. And the one in the coolant line will read below operating temperature until the thermostat opens. And it may have only been reading weird because I was using obd11 instead of vag com. I have a sensor with me in case it goes out. But I don't know how much I trust a import direct sensor
I'll have to check the variance between them when I'm home where my veg com is. What baffled me is that it did it whether the vehicle is hot or cold after the ECU timed out. And it happened to me before when I was stage 2. Also during the winter. I just never realized that was why my battery was dead. Cuz I had come out to my vehicle a couple of times with the battery flat. And then I caught it doing this winterIf you had read my troubleshooting, you would've seen that it's unclear what each of the sensors does or where it sends the signal to. The ecu seems to combine readings and do weird things that don't seem to be documented. If you suspect your sensor is the issue and don't want to do readings off each of them to compare, try unplugging one of them and see if your symptom changes, etc.
Coolant temp sensors can't measure the temp of imaginary coolant.... if you have coolant sloshing around they will have inconsistent readings.... if you have air pockets or poor coolant circulation, you'll get wachy behavior.. if you have flaky connections, same thing....Special Notes
- Check the stored Freeze Frame data with this fault code. Freeze Frame information will be found in the fault code description (if the module supports it) or in Generic OBD-II if the vehicle complies with those regulations.
- Freeze Frame data stored at -40*C is generally an indication of a faulty ECT or wiring.
- Freeze Frame data stored at +140*C is generally an indication of a faulty ECT or wiring.
- Freeze Frame data stored with in the 68*C ~ 80*C range is an indication that the vehicle was close to, but not within, the cooling systems normal operation range. The Thermostat itself or Cooling system components may be at fault.
Check the coolant outlet flange on the driver side of the block.Earlier DivineChaos mentioned that a coolant leak may cause the fans to run. I did just notice that I have a small coolant leak just below the coolant reservoir. It looks like it's above the thermostat house area. I'll check this out.
I did get the timing belt and thermostat done at the same time I got the tune/delete.
I wonder. Could it possibly be this?
Idfk. It's just what they said. So we'll see. There's the temp sensor and the o2 that are underneath.Skeptical..... what sensor plug is left dangling that the ECU somehow reads and interprets as "exhaust too hot"?
I've been watching things as I drive and all seems normal. All the other sensors are unplugged so those should cause an issue all the time if it were that. Wouldn't it? Also I don't have an oil level sensor. So no oil temp.Are you sure your O2, EGT, and pressure sensors were "re-installed" back properly after those other parts fell off?
Also, if you log all those sensor signals, you should be able to see if you drop the signal from one of them due to a flaky connection or something.
As for what Malone told me. All that needs to be plugged in is the egt in the manifold, and the first wideband right off the turbo. The 3 other temp sensors, the pressure sensors, rear o2 and exhaust valve remain unplugged. Along with both EGR.I don't know what parts or how they fell off what you're driving, but when I look at similar "failures" I'm lead to believe that some sensors should still be plugged into something.... have a look. PG19 sec 30