Quick instructions for oil change?

[letterman52]

Great DIY. I just used the Pela and it was super easy. I'm hooked.

 

[dashbarron]

Whoa. The filter is on the top? And it's a 32MM?? Geesshhhh....

 

[DonL]

Many, many years ago I made oil change ramps with two 2 x 6s and a short piece of 2 x 6 on the end. I didn't even bevel the ends. However, the Jetta is so close to the ground I had to add another board underneath to raise it enough. I don't like the idea of jacking the car up to change the oil. Getting under a car on jacks is one way to die and I knew a mechanic who died that way.

I have done one oil change since I got my new skid plate and that is the only way to go. Just remove two little screws and take the little plate out.

 

[vMINIdub]

Does the car need to be completely level or can I keep the front up on ramps? TIA.

 

[kromicacid]

you can keep the front up...

 

[vMINIdub]

Thanks! Next issue... I'm done changing the oil but just now read about the LL03 specification. Somehow I did not catch that detail when reading to determine which parts to order. So, before I panic, does "LL03" correlate to "LongLife III" as printed on the LiquiMoly TopTec 4200 product?

If so, then whew - I lucked out. If not, should I even run it with this oil and for how long? (38K+ mileage.)

 

[ZiggyTheHamster]

Go by the VW standard number. It's printed in all of these locations, you can't miss it:

• The owner's manual near the engine oil capacity.
• The oil cap.
• The radiator shroud.

If you can't find it, a 2009 Jetta TDI requires VW 507.00 oil. The photo you attached indicates it meets VW 507.00. Any oil that meets VW 507.00 is suitable in your engine. That also includes Mobil 1 ESP available at Pep Boys and Castrol SLX Professional LL03 available at your dealer.

 

[T_D_I_POWER]

OAFC steps always missed

Extract excess oil with an oil xtractor in the OHE and OFH.
Clean oil will show on the dipstick after 1st start.

Prefill OFH with oil.
Instant oil supplies to the valvetrain/turbo bearing upon 1st start

Peace of mind.
No wear and tear

 

[ZiggyTheHamster]

What's the OFH capacity?

 

[d2305]

Put in 4 quarts/liters and measure, add a little more if necessary.

 

[Henrick]

This doesn't actually work in real. I have tried it. You probably need a big syringe to do this.

 

[EJS]

Thanks! Next issue... I'm done changing the oil but just now read about the LL03 specification. Somehow I did not catch that detail when reading to determine which parts to order. So, before I panic, does "LL03" correlate to "LongLife III" as printed on the LiquiMoly TopTec 4200 product?


If so, then whew - I lucked out. If not, should I even run it with this oil and for how long? (38K+ mileage.)

Call me silly but I put much more weight in the VW 504.00/507.00 - that spec means it's low ash. The ash is detrimental to our DPF's. I used Fuch's brand, more often used by the Benz folks................had the VW 504.00/507.00 specification = okay with me. And really I focus on the VW 507.00 as that's the one for our cars (though I'll admit I've never seen just VW 507.00, always with the 504.00 )

 

[ZiggyTheHamster]

Put in 4 quarts/liters and measure, add a little more if necessary.

The oil filter housing doesn't hold 4 liters..........

 

[T_D_I_POWER]

What's the OFH capacity?

Fill to the bottom of the OFH threads or ~ 12-16 oz. Then carefully instl. the OFCA-Oil Filter Cap Assy.

This doesn't actually work in real. I have tried it. You probably need a big syringe to do this.

I don't how you did it? You can always install a .125" or .25" dia. x 4-6" L clear vinyl hose to the funnel end. Slip this hose between the OFH & OF cartridge.

 

[Henrick]

The funnel I tried didn't fit there as in the picture.
When I tried a hose, the inner diameter was too small and oil was only dropping a few drops per minute

 

[Hornblower]

My car is a 2010 Jetta TDI sedan and this was my first oil change on it. Due to reading all the oil change posts I could find, I was well-prepared and I think it went quite well. The method I chose was to extract the oil and, for that purpose, I used a Harbor Freight fluid extractor. Actually, it worked even better than expected. The only hitch was that the extractor tank holds 5 gallons and I was only extracting 4L or so. As such, the oil never even made it up to the first marking in the sight tube. The extraction process went so quickly, and since I couldn't see the oil in the sight tube, I was concerned that I hadn't gotten all the oil out. In addition, I was going to also extract from the oil filter housing but there was no oil left in there to extract. So next, I decided to add some new oil to the filter housing thinking it would start filling up after adding a half liter or so. That didn't happen. In fact, I added 1 1/2 liters to the filter housing and it never started to fill. After that, I added 2 liters to the regular fill location so, at that point, I had put in 3 1/2 liters. I started the engine, let in run for a few minutes, and checked the dip stick. It showed low so I added the remaining 1/2 liter and rechecked and it was slightly below the full mark. From this experience, I am now thinking a couple of things...first, once the oil filter cap is removed and the oil filter is pulled up, all the oil in that area drains to the oil pan. That's the only thing that can explain why I could add so much oil back to the filter housing without it filling. Second, using the extraction method definitely gets enough old oil out since I would have to add slightly more than 4L to get back to the full mark. Having this first oil change under my belt, I believe I can do the next one in 15 to 20 minutes without hardly bending over and certainly not getting oil on my hands. This car has set a new record in being the easiest to change oil and filter on with any car I have ever owned. Now, the DSG service may be a slightly different story but I have 30K miles to go before being concerned with that. --Ken B.

 

[wreck111]

Any tricks on doing the fuel filter on CR engines?

 

[ZiggyTheHamster]

In fact, I added 1 1/2 liters to the filter housing and it never started to fill. After that, I added 2 liters to the regular fill location so, at that point, I had put in 3 1/2 liters.

I think you have to insert the filter to block the bottom hole first.

I don't extract, but what I do is fill 4L, check the level, and add if needed. On my car with Mobil 1 ESP, 4L is exactly correct. Other people have to put in 4.3L. So if 4L is full for you, that's normal.

Definitely don't put in a whole 5L though.

Any tricks on doing the fuel filter on CR engines?

The non VCDS route:

1. Get some twine or a metal coat hanger or bailing wire.
2. Remove the screws on top of the canister, pull the top off.
3. Use the twine/coat hanger/etc. to hold the top so fuel can't leave the holes in the top. So basically you're dangling all of the hoses so they're down.
4. Remove old filter.
5. Loosen the 2 screws and one nut (I think?) holding the canister to the car. Then unhinge the clip holding a fuel line to the canister. This one took me half a century to figure out how to remove, but when you put it back on it should be easy to see how it goes on and off to save you some time next time. The lower screw (I think?) doesn't have to be totally removed because the canister has a fork that just slips under it. (It may be the upper one, but you'll see which one I mean.)
6. Dump the canister into some sort of recycling jug. Clean it out with a lint free cloth or paper towel (or don't clean it, you be the judge).
7. Reinstall canister.
8. Fill halfway up with fresh Diesel mixed with your favorite additive in a "double dose".
9. Insert the filter.
10. Fill the canister up slowly until you start to see Diesel reach the top of the filter.
11. Change the o-rings/gaskets if applicable (green one + olympic on mine).
12. Loosen your twine or whatever and place the canister lid back on.
13. Screw it down BY HAND (no power tools) in a star pattern. There's probably a torque spec, but tighten until it's hard to turn. Let the gaskets do their work. Most important is to tighten them part of the way each time or it'll be a pain. Don't use a power tool for this unless you want to overtighten the bolts. Diesel may squeeze out, that's fine, it just means you filled the canister a little too much. Use paper towels to sop up.
14. Once all of the bolts are tight, fire it up and give it some throttle input ("gas") to pressurize the rail and suck fuel through the filter. If it dies or is hard to start, let it sit for a few minutes and give it another shot. I wouldn't try to start it for any more than 10 seconds, but I have never had it die or not immediately start after a filter change (I have in the dead of winter when the fuel froze though).
15. While it's running, check for any leaks. Sometimes people don't tighten some bolts down far enough and once the canister pressurizes it starts to spray fuel. Another thing I've never encountered.

There's also a VCDS way, which is to do all of the previous things, except that you hook up VCDS and run output tests on all of the fuel pumps for a few minutes, then fire it up. Don' t own VCDS so can't tell you how to do that.

 

[Hornblower]

Ziggy--I believe you are right about 4L getting the oil exactly to the top mark. Turns out, I was not looking at the right marks on the dipstick. I was looking at the line slightly above the hole at the top of the hash marks. My oil level is right at the top hole so the level is essentially perfect. --Ken B.

 

[ZiggyTheHamster]

So you're in the "4L is the right amount" group then . There are people on here with the exact car you have that require 4.3L. Don't have a clue why that is

 

[ruking]

Sorry, not to hijack the thread but quick question...
Has anyone had any problems with using a Pella extractor on our MkVs to change the oil without getting under the car? If it worked fine, you wouldn't have to lift the car, remove the skid plate, or the drain plug. Anyone?

--Mark

I really do not think this is a hijack, in that the technical data (Bentley's) lists the "extractor" method as the preferred method (as another poster has said).

One has to develop the "FEEL" as to where the bottom of the oil pan is with the inserted hose. Once that is done, it really takes all of 5 mins to remove the used oil and replace the new oil. While I personally suction out the oil filter cartridge holder, it really is not necessary. You can literally do the evacuation method in a parking lot space. (I normally do it in the garage with full tools and lift equipment anyway)

For those that are concerned or worried about getting "ALL" the USED oil out, one look at the technical data: dry sump specifications compared to oil change specifications and it is simple to see that (some) oil remains in the sump. As a matter of fact it is literally impossible to get "ALL" the used oil out sans partial to full dissasembly and full "drying".

 

[Henrick]

Why might you be worried about some 'old' oil left there? You say because the old oil is worn/exhausted/etc and not doing it's job? If this is the case you think, then shorten your OCI!

 

[Claudio]

what do you guys do with the used oil? where do you take it?

 

[Hornblower]

I really do not think this is a hijack, in that the technical data (Bentley's) lists the "extractor" method as the preferred method (as another poster has said).

One has to develop the "FEEL" as to where the bottom of the oil pan is with the inserted hose. Once that is done, it really takes all of 5 mins to remove the used oil and replace the new oil. While I personally suction out the oil filter cartridge holder, it really is not necessary. You can literally do the evacuation method in a parking lot space. (I normally do it in the garage with full tools and lift equipment anyway)

For those that are concerned or worried about getting "ALL" the USED oil out, one look at the technical data: dry sump specifications compared to oil change specifications and it is simple to see that (some) oil remains in the sump. As a matter of fact it is literally impossible to get "ALL" the used oil out sans partial to full dissasembly and full "drying".

I believe the "feel" issue is minimized if you choose a fairly stiff plastic tube. I simply pushed the tube down the dipstick hole until it obviously hit the bottom of the oil pan and would go no further. And you're right, with a good extraction vacuum, all the oil can be sucked out in just a few minutes. BTW, I had hoped to use a straight metal tube since high temperature tends to soften a plastic tube. The straight metal tube would not insert so apparently, there are some slight bends in the dipstick tube. In fact, when I finished with my plastic tube, it had taken on the the bends of the dipstick tube. Those bends are fairly minor but there are bends there nevertheless which prohibits using a straight metal tube. Now I know. --Ken B.

 

[Henrick]

what do you guys do with the used oil? where do you take it?

I have a 208 L drum. I drain around 4-4,5 liters of old oil per OCI. It will take some time before the drum will get full. When/if it gets full, I'll start thinking about where/how to dispose it.

 

[ruking]

what do you guys do with the used oil? where do you take it?

You might indeed be paying for it already and not know it.

1. As part of the local garbage bill (or whatever it is called in PC speak), the (ours) local service does a used oil pick up (in so called approved containers)

2.Many auto retailers take used fluids (anti freeze, brake fluids, oil of course, etc.)

3. The county also has either prearranged or even by appointment drop off services.

 

[tditom]

Claudio- many oil change shops and autoparts stores will take your used oil.

Henrick- an alternative to using a funnel is to just carefully pour oil on top of the filter and let it run over the side until you see the level coming up to the top of the housing.

Multitudes of members have been doing this for many years in advance of T_D_I_Power blessing us with his presence

 

[Henrick]

Henrick- an alternative to using a funnel is to just carefully pour oil on top of the filter and let it run over the side until you see the level coming up to the top of the housing.

This might look and sound easy on BRM engine, but isn't that easy on mine. My engine has got I/C plumbing just above and around the oil filter so access to the filter itself and housing is VERY limited. I even need tome effor to remove & install the oil filter without touching the plumbing or wiring....

 

[ZiggyTheHamster]

what do you guys do with the used oil? where do you take it?

Put drain pan into garbage bag. Tie off really well. Put drain pan in garbage bag into another garbage bag. Tie off really well. Pack up another garbage bag, drive to AutoZone. Have them dump it. Place empty drain pan into clean garbage bag, dispose of dirty garbage bags. Tie off the clean one really well. Store the garbage bag / drain pan somewhere where it won't get rained on (so the oil doesn't run off). Also usually for me, AutoZone takes the oiled garbage bags. I suspect they throw them away, but I at least did my part by trying.

 

[Alan Drake]

Has anyone had leaking problems with the pan bolt???
It is said, it should be replaced each time, however I just got some new copper crush washers and plan to re-use the pan bolt - YES/NO ??