Call me silly but I put much more weight in the VW 504.00/507.00 - that spec means it's low ash. The ash is detrimental to our DPF's. I used Fuch's brand, more often used by the Benz folks................had the VW 504.00/507.00 specification = okay with me. And really I focus on the VW 507.00 as that's the one for our cars (though I'll admit I've never seen just VW 507.00, always with the 504.00 )Thanks! Next issue... I'm done changing the oil but just now read about the LL03 specification. Somehow I did not catch that detail when reading to determine which parts to order. So, before I panic, does "LL03" correlate to "LongLife III" as printed on the LiquiMoly TopTec 4200 product?
If so, then whew - I lucked out. If not, should I even run it with this oil and for how long? (38K+ mileage.)
Fill to the bottom of the OFH threads or ~ 12-16 oz. Then carefully instl. the OFCA-Oil Filter Cap Assy.What's the OFH capacity?
I don't how you did it? You can always install a .125" or .25" dia. x 4-6" L clear vinyl hose to the funnel end. Slip this hose between the OFH & OF cartridge.Henrick said:This doesn't actually work in real. I have tried it. You probably need a big syringe to do this.
I think you have to insert the filter to block the bottom hole first.In fact, I added 1 1/2 liters to the filter housing and it never started to fill. After that, I added 2 liters to the regular fill location so, at that point, I had put in 3 1/2 liters.
The non VCDS route:Any tricks on doing the fuel filter on CR engines?
I really do not think this is a hijack, in that the technical data (Bentley's) lists the "extractor" method as the preferred method (as another poster has said).Sorry, not to hijack the thread but quick question...
Has anyone had any problems with using a Pella extractor on our MkVs to change the oil without getting under the car? If it worked fine, you wouldn't have to lift the car, remove the skid plate, or the drain plug. Anyone?
I believe the "feel" issue is minimized if you choose a fairly stiff plastic tube. I simply pushed the tube down the dipstick hole until it obviously hit the bottom of the oil pan and would go no further. And you're right, with a good extraction vacuum, all the oil can be sucked out in just a few minutes. BTW, I had hoped to use a straight metal tube since high temperature tends to soften a plastic tube. The straight metal tube would not insert so apparently, there are some slight bends in the dipstick tube. In fact, when I finished with my plastic tube, it had taken on the the bends of the dipstick tube. Those bends are fairly minor but there are bends there nevertheless which prohibits using a straight metal tube. Now I know. --Ken B.I really do not think this is a hijack, in that the technical data (Bentley's) lists the "extractor" method as the preferred method (as another poster has said).
One has to develop the "FEEL" as to where the bottom of the oil pan is with the inserted hose. Once that is done, it really takes all of 5 mins to remove the used oil and replace the new oil. While I personally suction out the oil filter cartridge holder, it really is not necessary. You can literally do the evacuation method in a parking lot space. (I normally do it in the garage with full tools and lift equipment anyway)
For those that are concerned or worried about getting "ALL" the USED oil out, one look at the technical data: dry sump specifications compared to oil change specifications and it is simple to see that (some) oil remains in the sump. As a matter of fact it is literally impossible to get "ALL" the used oil out sans partial to full dissasembly and full "drying".
You might indeed be paying for it already and not know it.
This might look and sound easy on BRM engine, but isn't that easy on mine. My engine has got I/C plumbing just above and around the oil filter so access to the filter itself and housing is VERY limited. I even need tome effor to remove & install the oil filter without touching the plumbing or wiring....Henrick- an alternative to using a funnel is to just carefully pour oil on top of the filter and let it run over the side until you see the level coming up to the top of the housing.
Put drain pan into garbage bag. Tie off really well. Put drain pan in garbage bag into another garbage bag. Tie off really well. Pack up another garbage bag, drive to AutoZone. Have them dump it. Place empty drain pan into clean garbage bag, dispose of dirty garbage bags. Tie off the clean one really well. Store the garbage bag / drain pan somewhere where it won't get rained on (so the oil doesn't run off). Also usually for me, AutoZone takes the oiled garbage bags. I suspect they throw them away, but I at least did my part by trying.