Quick instructions for oil change?

[SootHappens]

wow you must be skinny

I've changed my oil several times using a Pela oil extractor (very easy) and once from underneath. I would not have been able to do it without raising the car. The skid plate has about 6 screws, and you need room for an oil drain pan.

I suppose if you have a shallow drainpan and can reach all the fasteners for the skid plate, more power to you!

I just used a floor jack and two stands.

Every 3rd oil change I drain from below to check for leaks/problems

 

[Long_Range]

Just bought the filter and 5 bottles of oil for $45 and plan to do the oil change this weekend.
Here I just want to know whether is absolutely necessary to raise the car in order to drain the oil from the bottom? I have done oil changes on different cars such as hondas, toyotas, fords, nissans, and rarely found it's a necessity to raise the car.
thanks,

You'll need jack stands or a set of ramps.
T-25 torx driver to remove the screws for the belly pan.
You may be able to straddle the car over a ditch to make room to get under.
Sort of a farm boy grease pit.

 

[shutterfly]

Thank you for all your suggestions. I will go to Lowes and get a couple of lumber pieces (need to be thick enough). They should be as good as ramps or jack stands

Just got some first tastes of high maintenance costs of German cars: I just spent more than $40 for a Craftsman Torx Socket set, while a similar six-point socket set also from Craftsman only runs at half of the price.

 

[Octang Frye]

Can you recommend an "Essential Tools Kit" for the Jetta and where to procure said items?

 

[TDI 4 RD]

You'll need jack stands or a set of ramps.
T-25 torx driver to remove the screws for the belly pan.
You may be able to straddle the car over a ditch to make room to get under.
Sort of a farm boy grease pit.

You may also need a T-30 bit. At least according to the Bentley's, the back screws for the sound insulation panel (farthest from the front of the car) could be T-30s.

 

[shutterfly]

Octang-Frye,
If you don't have any tool to start with, besides the torx socket set I mentioned, you will also need: 1 3/8" rachet; 1 wrench (to remove the filter cap); possiblly an extensioner for the rachet; and a 1/4" to 3/8" converter (dono exactly what's called)
I am a Craftsman guy, so I buy them exclusively from Sears. There are also other good quality brands such as Stanly (Stanley???) where you can buy from Walmart, but I don't think they carry torx sockets since it's *rare*.

 

[ChasSidwa]

How do I get the top engine cover off of my 2006.5 Jetta?

 

[TDI 4 RD]

Top cover is in two pieces. It simply comes off if you pull up gently. No screws!

 

[bechenier]

Hi, what about draining the water from the water separater? where is it? and how do I drain it?

 

[kromicacid]

oil filter size?

I noticed when chainging my oil the first time that there was a size difference in the filter itself from thet Mann filter and the OEM filter. The top piece is the same height which has me confused.

Any thoughts on which is better? Or if the Mann is acceptable? Mann on right, OEM on left

 

[AVRCGUY]

I noticed when chainging my oil the first time that there was a size difference in the filter itself from thet Mann filter and the OEM filter. The top piece is the same height which has me confused.

Any thoughts on which is better? Or if the Mann is acceptable? Mann on right, OEM on left

Sorry to pull up an old thread but I have the same question. I'm in the middle of doing the 2nd oil change on this car. The first was done at the dealer. The filter that just came out of the car looks like the one on the left in the pic above. The new one that, I just bought at the dealer the other day, looks like the one on the right. Am I OK to use this filter? Or should I buy the other style?

Now that I think about it......If the dealer just sold me the style on the right, and I just took out the style on the left. Does that mean they didn't change the filter when they did the first oil change?

 

[Mach1]

The pleats on the OEM are accordian type and have more surface area for filtration, should have a higher capacity for filtration, I like the OEM myself and get a good price on them.
The OEM filter justs fits better and has tighter clearances.

 

[AVRCGUY]

So does VW sell both styles through the dealership? Because the filter I just bought at my local VW dealer has the straight pleats.

 

[tntdifan]

The filter on the left is a Purflux (made by the Purflux company in France) and is usually (always?) what you get from a VW dealership parts counter as an official OEM filter in the US. It has the wavy accordion pleats with a bit more surface area.

The filter on the right is made by Mann/Hummel in Germany. Mann/Hummel sells a lot of filter and filter-related parts to VWAG. In fact, they made the actual metal filter canister your oil filter will go in (so much for the Mann filter not fitting ) -- just read the lettering on the top carefully.

The real-live OEM filter in my car, as in "came from the factory," which I pulled out when I did its first oil change at 5k miles, was a Mann, not a Purflux. (The factory fuel filter was also a Mann with VWAG markings in addition to the Mann trademark.)

 

[grantdcol]

Fractional sockets will work too

19 mm socket for the oil pan plug.

The oil filter takes a 32 mm socket.

You need a torque wrench (cheap one is fine) to do this job properly. The oil pan is cast aluminum, and the threads will strip easily if you overtorque the plug.

Conveniently, 19mm = 3/4" and 32mm = 1 1/4". If you have those fractional sizes available then you're good to go.

-Colin

 

[MacBuckeye]

2009 Owner- needs assurance

Hi.
Proud owner of the 2009 Jetta TDi. I just want to make sure I'm good to go on changing my oil. The thread states 2009 CR along with 2005/06 so I just want to be 100% sure I can follow most/all of the comments in this discussion area. I, too, prefer to maintenance my car versus the dealership. My 09 has 5,300 miles and I want to go ahead and change the oil. I'll let VW do the 10K, 20k under the free maintenance. Obviously under close watch to make sure they use the right oil (507).
Any additional advice/instructions/picts for us 2009 owners would be greatly appreciated. List of sepcific tools to get was nice- going to get them today!

 

[Mach1]

Mac, its not just 507.01 oil, its the latest generation..LL03 spec...the container has to say LL03.

 

[06JettaGuy]

Thanks for the pictures!! this will be very helpful when I change the oil on my 06 Jetta for the first time...Next weekend!!

 

[06JettaGuy]

Got the oil changed no problems!! Fuel filter as well... took about 2 hours for the first time... wanted to make sure I did it correctly. Dont need any problems from poor workmanship... hopefully the next time will be much quicker....

 

[Diesel_1000]

oil filter jag has a hole at the bottom!!!!

Hi guys, this is my first post, since I just bought a 2005.5 jetta tdi, and I changed the oil myself. I noticed the oil filter jar has a hole at the bottom of the wall of the orifice, and I am not talking about the bottom hole where the filter reside. I am talking about an opening right above that one on the left side (car side). Could anybody confirm that hole should exist??? Tks​

 

[kromicacid]

do you have a picture? can you post one?

not sure where you are talking about, but know most of the 'holes' in the filter housing.

 

[Diesel_1000]

oil filter jag has a hole at the bottom!!!!

Hi, Thanks for your help. I did not want to open again the oil filter canister to take picture, but I will try to explain with more precision:
Looking at the car the hole in the oil filter canister is on the right side. And it's located 1" up from the bottom opening. Remember, This hole is located on the side wall of the canister. The reason I am trying to find out if that hole is part of the original design of the canister or just something that broke over time; because that hole has some chipping on the side of the orifice. Thanks.

 

[Cappy]

Piece of cake. Easier to do then my Chevy.

 

[wild03]

Octang-Frye,
If you don't have any tool to start with, besides the torx socket set I mentioned, you will also need: 1 3/8" rachet; 1 wrench (to remove the filter cap); possiblly an extensioner for the rachet; and a 1/4" to 3/8" converter (dono exactly what's called)
I am a Craftsman guy, so I buy them exclusively from Sears. There are also other good quality brands such as Stanly (Stanley???) where you can buy from Walmart, but I don't think they carry torx sockets since it's *rare*.

I'm going to try the following set

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=91238

I'm not expecting to do any major work anytime soon, and for the DIY these might be just fine.

$10 - 20% =

 

[wild03]

Actually, thanks to WJDell. He showed me the procedure step by step.


T30 back; T25 front.

BTW, these are regular torx, not the triple square sometimes mentioned on other threads?

It will be nice to have a list of DIY tools starting from the most common to more specialized, this way new owners can start building their toolbox before they are needed, One can take the time and shop around look for deals ETC!

So far I'm looking at getting a torx set:

[FONT=arial, sans-serif]T-10, T-15, T-20, T-25, and T-27; and 3/8'' square drive: T-30, T-40, T-45, T-50[/FONT]

less than $10

There's also a triple square set:

4mm, 5mm, 6mm, 8mm, 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 16mm

for $25

anything else?

 

[corygraham]

I noticed my service engine engine light came on for my upcomming 40k mi oil change(and fuel filter ect...). If I do this myself what do I do to get that light off?

 

[wild03]

I noticed my service engine engine light came on for my upcomming 40k mi oil change(and fuel filter ect...). If I do this myself what do I do to get that light off?

I got this info somewhere in the forum: This is supposed to work on a 2009 jetta, not sure what you have.

Service indicator can be reset without a VAG COM.
Here's how:
1. Keys out of ignition- press and hold in trip odometer reset button "0.0" on right hand side of display
2. Still holding this button down, insert key into ignition and put to the on position without starting the car.
3. Display will read "service now"

4. let go of the "0.0" button and depress the "m" button on the left hand side of the display. this will re-set the service reminder. There is no confirmation on the display other than the words "service now" will disappear.

You can confirm that the service reminder has been reset, or check how many miles/days remain until service at any time by taking key out of the ignition and holding in the trip reset "0.0" button for between 3 and 5 seconds. The MFD will display miles and hours until next service.

 

[JThurmond7]

Huge Help!

Thank you LF06. You saved me at least 30 minutes today. Perfect directions, tools needed and great pictures. Just purchased my first TDI Jetta and the process is a bit different than my old Camry.
Thanks again!

 

[fbjacobo]

Yes, just about 50% of us use the Pela, and let us not start that war again.

Hi Tim,

I'm new to the list, so I don't know what a Pela is. I bought a pump siphon at the auto parts store. I hope that will be acceptable. My other concern is: do I (as seems logical) insert the siphon's hose into the part where you refill the oil? It looks like the dipstick tube is too small, and it seems to have an internal sleeve that makes it even narrower.

While I'm at it, a few moths ago, when I was getting info on the oil change, I came across a step-by-step pictoral spread on how to do the oil change on my '10 TDI Jetta. Now I can't find it. Any idea where I might find such a thing?

And finally, any idea where I can get a labeled photo of the engine compartment, so I know what each part is? TIA.

Fred Jacobowitz

 

[Mach1]

Fred, I have found this works for me..take the smallest Pela tube and insert it down into the dipstick, you will know when it hits the pan, pump it up and start removing the oil WHILE the engine is 'HOT'. Now, after it starts sucking air, work the tube up/dn further in the dipstick tube, I go down another couple inches.

Of course you should have pulled the oil filter cap already, cause we are going this way next, with the Pela, sink the smallest tube down the front most part of the filter housing, it will go down there some ~16". You can measure the depth of the tube to the cooler and make sure the tube goes down in the cooler to extract the cooler oil.

I can get all but 2oz of oil from the pan this method. and you have to extract the Oil filter housing or you will leave 1/2 liter in the housing, so either way you have to use an extractor. Hope this helps...