Proper IQ?

ecala001

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What would be a good IQ range on an ALH with a tune?

I've been reading 3 to 5. I currently have mine at 5.2 roughly. What differences in FE and performance will I see at 4 or lower?

Right now I feel a noticeable jump in power as I had went from stage 3 with 4.2 IQ to 5.2 IQ with the following setup below:

vnt 17
stage 4 malone
11mm pump
.216 nozzles
 

IndigoBlueWagon

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Your tuner can tell you where to best set it. I don't know about Malone, but Jeff at Rocketchip usually sets it at 3.0 or thereabouts.
 

tdi_my live

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So I can't quite understand these questions here. What do you mean with that? Do you set the IQ yourself using "hammer mode" while idling?
 

Mongler98

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So I can't quite understand these questions here. What do you mean with that? Do you set the IQ yourself using "hammer mode" while idling?
Yes. With the use of proper tools, a laptop, and a VagCom cable and vcds.
 

tdi_my live

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It is unbelievable! What are you doing?
That is the work of the tuner, which can be set in the software without anyone having to go to the hardware. Disaster
 

IndigoBlueWagon

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Yes and no. You can set it with VCDS, but the electronic range has limits. You can adjust it more using VCDS and the hammer mod, mentioned above. Just did this on my '99.5 Golf last week because it appeared to be under-fueling and the IQ was at the range limit with VCDS. Harmless, unless you mess it up.

This is similar to how you can adjust injection timing both mechanically and electronically.
 

Mongler98

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Let me rephrase that for you...
VCDS and a cable is not necessary to do a hammer mod. all that is required is some tools and a block of wood and a hammer. i never used the triangle socket because its a POS and strips out easily. i just hammer on a cheap 12pt socket.
now knowing what the IPs QA number is.. that is a 100% VCDS requirement. So if you want to get it correct... the only way is with the software to monitor what your doing to the IP. VCDS has basically no adjustability on the QA in terms of metering physically. that must be done via hammer mod.
When i refer to hammer mod, that was a mod to basically blindly set the QA to as low as you can cheaply for max power on basically stock engines with maybe an evry mod. these were jank AF mods that should be avoided. if you hit the QA too far too hard, you WILL bend the plungers cam arm slightly and you will never get correct values again. light taps only within range as seen on VCDS or the idle trick.
The point of increasing the IQ (injection quantity) by decreasing the number is to increase power. Now if you have nozzles and not enough hardware to support the EGT's you MUST DECREASE the fuel by INCREASING the IQ's number.
I has a gt2052 running 32pis with 764pp's stage 6 tuned from malone with a lot of crazy foggers and what not. i ran my QA as low as i could (most fuel) 1.4 to 1.2... in the winter i had to run 1.4 otherwise idle was not good.
the 764's call for a IQ of 6 to 7. that's very LOW. on a stock car that's nearly undrivable. but with big nozzles... its mandatory otherwise your melting your turbo.
An EGT gauge is a must for tunning
 
Last edited:

ecala001

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Let me rephrase that for you...
VCDS and a cable is not necessary to do a hammer mod. all that is required is some tools and a block of wood and a hammer. i never used the triangle socket because its a POS and strips out easily. i just hammer on a cheap 12pt socket.
now knowing what the IPs QA number is.. that is a 100% VCDS requirement. So if you want to get it correct... the only way is with the software to monitor what your doing to the IP. VCDS has basically no adjustability on the QA in terms of metering physically. that must be done via hammer mod.
When i refer to hammer mod, that was a mod to basically blindly set the QA to as low as you can cheaply for max power on basically stock engines with maybe an evry mod. these were jank AF mods that should be avoided. if you hit the QA too far too hard, you WILL bend the plungers cam arm slightly and you will never get correct values again. light taps only within range as seen on VCDS or the idle trick.
The point of increasing the IQ (injection quantity) by decreasing the number is to increase power. Now if you have nozzles and not enough hardware to support the EGT's you MUST DECREASE the fuel by INCREASING the IQ's number.
I has a gt2052 running 32pis with 764pp's stage 6 tuned from malone with a lot of crazy foggers and what not. i ran my QA as low as i could (most fuel) 1.4 to 1.2... in the winter i had to run 1.4 otherwise idle was not good.
the 764's call for a IQ of 6 to 7. that's very LOW. on a stock car that's nearly undrivable. but with big nozzles... its mandatory otherwise your melting your turbo.
An EGT gauge is a must for tunning
regarding the nozzles. I should be fine at 5 for iq? I still have to install my egt . I just dont want to melt the turbo.
 

Mongler98

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regarding the nozzles. I should be fine at 5 for iq? I still have to install my egt . I just don't want to melt the turbo.
follow the tunners advice.
many argue that EGT gauges are not worth doing and they are right, other than a DIY setup for the time being your tunning things correct. Unless its a relay gauge you can make the IP defuel on too high EGTs. easy to do on most older TDI's with an auber gauge.
you probably want to run a big higher than 5....
 

ecala001

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follow the tunners advice.
many argue that EGT gauges are not worth doing and they are right, other than a DIY setup for the time being your tunning things correct. Unless its a relay gauge you can make the IP defuel on too high EGTs. easy to do on most older TDI's with an auber gauge.
you probably want to run a big higher than 5....
yeah that auber gauge will be the safest bet.

oh and my tuner said 4.5 to 5 is good as long as it's not past 6
 

Mongler98

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98 Jetta TDI AHU 1.9L (944 TDI swap in progress) I moved so now i got nothing but an AHU in a garage on a pallet.
yeah that auber gauge will be the safest bet.

oh and my tuner said 4.5 to 5 is good as long as it's not past 6
with those fuel mods.... i would.
you can wire the relay into the brake switch. this defuels the IP and instantly stops the EGTs from going out of control. Set the gauge to 1550*f should be fine.
 

ecala001

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with those fuel mods.... i would.
you can wire the relay into the brake switch. this defuels the IP and instantly stops the EGTs from going out of control. Set the gauge to 1550*f should be fine.
that's with the cables supplied or is separate
 

Mongler98

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Location
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98 Jetta TDI AHU 1.9L (944 TDI swap in progress) I moved so now i got nothing but an AHU in a garage on a pallet.
No, buy the meter and the part you want to monitor aka, pyrometer and the meter together.
As for Auber... there is only 3 real styles of gauges, round, single and double. they are all the same thing though, a multimeter with programing and a digital readout and a relay internally. they all run off 12v. buy the meter you want in the colour you want, and the instrument you want, from pyrometer to transducer..
For boost you want the absolute boost, but everything is very self explanatory aside from the manual on how to program them.
take care with the pressure transducers, they have a weak spot at where the wire harness connects to the body.
 

ecala001

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No, buy the meter and the part you want to monitor aka, pyrometer and the meter together.
As for Auber... there is only 3 real styles of gauges, round, single and double. they are all the same thing though, a multimeter with programing and a digital readout and a relay internally. they all run off 12v. buy the meter you want in the colour you want, and the instrument you want, from pyrometer to transducer..
For boost you want the absolute boost, but everything is very self explanatory aside from the manual on how to program them.
take care with the pressure transducers, they have a weak spot at where the wire harness connects to the body.
since I already tapped the manifold on the turbo to fit the new south egt gauge, I assume I can use that probe to wire into the meter? when you say pyrometer and meter. use the new south gauge and the auber meter?
 

Mongler98

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Joined
Mar 23, 2011
Location
COLORADO (SE of Denver)
TDI
98 Jetta TDI AHU 1.9L (944 TDI swap in progress) I moved so now i got nothing but an AHU in a garage on a pallet.
since I already tapped the manifold on the turbo to fit the new south egt gauge, I assume I can use that probe to wire into the meter? when you say pyrometer and meter. use the new south gauge and the auber meter?
I'm not a sales guy from them. I just like them and used them for specific things like a diy water injection.
Best to ask them instead.
 
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