VERY nice job on the bumpers man!bumpers are DONE and on! i'm pretty happy with em. was a lot of work but learned how to finish metal better, and way better price. the front battery is just too easy for the receiver mount winch leads to reach too. needs a slightly lower back spacing wheel and 31s, but that's a next year issue. also need to make some rocker armor to cover where the old bumper used to.
Spartan locker in the back is 1000x better driving in the rain, i actually have the traction to accelerate now. found the worst over-use of RTV i've ever seen when i popped the diff :lol:
there are definitely DIY kits out there for a 2nd gen, I've even welded a set before for a buddy. they are just generally the huge bloated bumpers.
Yeah that’s the trouble. I’ve seen the Move kits and (just like every other bumper out there for these trucks), they stick out a mile in front. Disgusting.
nothing wrong with a reasonable tangent!Yeah that’s the trouble. I’ve seen the Move kits and (just like every other bumper out there for these trucks), they stick out a mile in front. Disgusting.
Now I get that it has to be that way if you’re parking a winch behind it, but some of us don’t, and would prefer a nice slim bumper with a 2” receiver like yours above. Thuren makes a nice one, but it’s not a weld-it-yourself and it’s well over $2k.
Anyway, I’m done my rant.
That’s a good idea, I just sent them an email now. I do like the 4th Gen styled Octane series they have.
Are you planning on the RADesigns set up where you manually shift the trans, an HGM controller or modifying the stock TCU?
HGM Controller, they sell a kit that has an electrically controlled cable to take the place of the kick down cable, the other option is to get a Valve body out of an A340F (2007ish) Tacoma and have them program the controller to run the Toyota electric Solenoid. Both ways should work equally well.
Fast Forward Auto’s Harness included a Can To Dash Adaptor and VSS to Analog controller so if my assumptions are correct I can completely remove the Jeep Ecu and wiring harness the TCU doesnt talk to the Ecu except for throttle position. at all in the XJ/TJ, but the HGM is going to talk to the VW Ecu so minimizing the amount of wiring I have to keep under the hood will simplify the install
Have you looked into converter stall? I'm having an issue finding out what the 4.0 converter stall was, some guess around 1800-2000 and I still haven't found what the TDI converter stall was. 1800 sounds right but I'm no slush box expert.
Pretty much everything I’ve read is 1800-2200 for the 4.0 and I’d assume 1700-2000ish for the VW, but there are some wild claims that the TDI and 1.8T use the same converter which is 3000 stall. It’s close enough to or below torque peak with the factory 4.0 that I don’t really think it’s going to matter.
I hear ya on that haha it certainly would be less hassle but the Cost of a used ax-15 is basically the same as the controller and I wanna be different!OOOORRRRrrrr.... hear me out ... you could just bolt on an AX15 and row that junk down the road.
I'm anticipating a successful swap. If the 6l80 doesn't work out an aw4 is the next transmission of choice for my current project.I hear ya on that haha it certainly would be less hassle but the Cost of a used ax-15 is basically the same as the controller and I wanna be different!
I'm putting it in a near 5,000 lbs discovery 2. The more gears she has the better.
mines pretty basic, TDI swap, Iron rock front 3 link, JK d30/D44 (for now) 2” front stretch and 35s and let it eat till a break the front axle
6L80 1st gear would be nice but that 6th gear is so tall
True but my poor little Dana 30 really shouldn’t go beyond 4.56
if I break it I’m going to build a front hipinion ford 9” for ****s n giggles
we recently built a junk yard 9-44 and i really want to build another. cut the knuckles off a ford d44 and a buddy machined them open to fit the 3" tube of the 9". junkyard factory 9" housing, welded the tube we cut off one side back onto the other to make it long enough. as part of the links it'll be trussed, so no worries there. built to 60" wms. the housing with knuckles is SOOO much lighter than a bare fabb'd 9. only oddity is having to grind down the tube weld seam to fit the inner axle seal housings, and they'll need RTV'd in.
this Is awesome that some body has done it! , my plan is to get a Currie or Ruffstuff 9” housing and Use Currie JK inner Cs so that beyond inner axles shafts everything is JK so I can keep my Method Bead grip wheels, I’ll probably go coil-over in the front at that point.
