Project Kill Da Auto Wabbit!, Or how I learned to love the Manual Swap

[Nuje]

Having re-wired a car to accept the steering wheel cruise (and stereo) controls on a MFSW, I'll conjecture that the cruise control is fully managed by the CAN wires, so it doesn't need whatever wiring you'd change on an auto-to-manual swap. I'd also guess that while cruise control itself works, I bet that depressing the clutch pedal does not disengage the cruise control like it would/should.

 

[codeweiler]

1. If you haven't switched from auto to manual via VCDS it will be running off whatever the default was for the car that the ECU is from. For mine when I did the switch on vcds it definitely ran "richer" and I had to adjust the IQ.
It should run very well still unless you changed injectors and fuel pump with the swap (manual injectors and pump on an auto code), and are running the opposite. Then I could see it running lean at which point you should adjust your IQ ASAP. You could be increasing ring wear with the higher cylinder temperatures.

2. The vss is absolutely necessary. I ran it both on and off and it runs way rougher with the sensor off. Especially at lower rpms.

I would start with what you know is wrong and go from there. Get the car switched to manual. Adjust IQ. My guess is what you are describing it could be running lean.

 

[PakProtector]

Hey Grashopr, I did not have to do anything with the VSS except plug in. Connectors the same, and speedo works. Aside from cruise control not having the ecu work done, the beast is not giving me any fits. Had some along the way, but it was not so bad...
cheers,
Douglas

 

[skraeling]

I'm completing an automatic to manual trans conversion on a 2002 Golf TDI. The car is running great and I've got all the coding issues resolved.

I've been reading this thread for about a week now trying to figure out how to do the wiring updates to get 1. the backup lights to work, 2. the clutch starter lockout circuit to work and 3. get the cruise control clutch cancel to work.

I believe that I have items one and two, I have under control.

I have read up to about page 40 and have not found consistent, clear instructions on how the wiring for the cruise control clutch cancel should be implemented. There are directions which require connections between the TCU & ECU, others that only have ECU connections and none are unambiguous as to the connections, because multiple vehicles are covered and wiring color codes are often not consistent.

Can anyone point me to the final, clean instructions for how to wire the cruise control switchover in this 90 page thread?

Thanks.

 

[yotatoy]

Been a decade since I did my swap. But I had sent an email to a friend with swap info afterwards. Here's the info I have. Word Doc attached has some of the wiring bits. The first one is this thread, 2nd one is no longer in existence but can probably find it on archive.org metal man was great for parts of he still exists.

Thread With Swap Info: http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=151516

Walkthrough Page: http://dspauto.com/node/8

Parts: http://www.metalmanparts.com/category.sc?categoryId=6


Couldn't upload file, out it in Google drive for ya. Hope it helps. https://docs.google.com/document/d/...ouid=111009852601452721040&rtpof=true&sd=true

 

[yotatoy]

Try this archive of DSP site for some Intel https://web.archive.org/web/20120614054937/http://www.dspauto.com/node/10

 

[Nuje]

I'm completing an automatic to manual trans conversion on a 2002 Golf TDI. The car is running great and I've got all the coding issues resolved.

I've been reading this thread for about a week now trying to figure out how to do the wiring updates to get 1. the backup lights to work, 2. the clutch starter lockout circuit to work and 3. get the cruise control clutch cancel to work.

I believe that I have items one and two, I have under control.

I have read up to about page 40 and have not found consistent, clear instructions on how the wiring for the cruise control clutch cancel should be implemented. There are directions which require connections between the TCU & ECU, others that only have ECU connections and none are unambiguous as to the connections, because multiple vehicles are covered and wiring color codes are often not consistent.

Can anyone point me to the final, clean instructions for how to wire the cruise control switchover in this 90 page thread?

Thanks.

I've done two swaps now, and both times, I've sworn to myself that I was going to write out better instructions on the clutch wiring because - same as you - I was beyond frustrated with confusing and ambiguous wiring instructions. And both times, by the time I finally figured it out and got everything working, I wanted to get to put that behind me and get to the next project.

If you haven't seen it yet, the wiring details in this document from @boertje (for auto-to-6sp. swap, but wiring is the same) at least got me in the ballpark. And then I trial-and-error'd my way to the finish line.

 

[skraeling]

Yotatoy -

Thanks for the info.

I am still seeing inconsistencies. I think that some of them may be due to different ways of achieving the same result. This is where schematic diagrams would remove all doubt. Describing wiring connections verbally is not the best way to go. If wiring is described verbally, it should be for only one clearly identified vehicle and both wire color codes and pin connections should be listed for every connection.

I'm going to assume that the following wiring diagram is correct and see where it leads. This wiring diagram makes the most sense to me. There is no socket at ECU pin 66 currently (in my formerly automatic transmission 2002 Golf TDI), so I will need to add a wire to that location and route it down to the blue/black clutch relay location under the dash:

I got a 2001 manual Golf TDI harness from the junkyard and pulled the socket and wire from ECU connector pin 66 on it (it is white with a red stripe, btw). I will insert it into the ECU connector in my 2002 Golf and figure out how to route it to the 175 relay (which will later be replaced by a 53 relay).

I am not going to mess with moving the socket on pin19 in the ECU connector to the pin 66 location, as is instructed in other posts. I may use some wires in the TCU harness to help route the newly added pin 66 in the ECU connector down to the clutch relay location under the dash, but I don't think any TCU harness connections are necessary and it adds confusion, if that isn't explicitly stated.

I have had to undo connections that I made previously that didn't work at all. The 175 relay seems to be the issue with those approaches. If the electronics within the relay isn't gutted, and the relay is re-wired internally to be only two standard relays, I don't think any of the approaches leaving in the 175 relay can work. The 53 relay is just a single relay with no extra electronics inside.

The second relay (of the 175 relay) is not required, since the reverse light switch on the manual transmission can directly handle the current to the backup lights (as can be seen in the wiring diagram above).

The clutch starter lockout is already mostly wired (pins 2, 6 & 8 on the 53 relay) - you just need to add the white/grey clutch switch connection to ground (on relay pin 4), to prevent the starter from being allowed to crank, when the clutch pedal is not pressed down.

Thanks.
I will post later to say whether it worked or not. So far the wiring part of the job has been a nightmare to figure out. If the above wiring diagram is correct, it won't be a big deal to wire up.

 

[pkhoury]

Amazing this thread is still going, only 16 years later. The OP actually helped me do two swaps, one of which is my Ute project. Fun stuff!

 

[GEFP]

I found the worst part of the job was to see the numbers on the 175 relay socket. I took a picture with my phone and wrote the numbers with a sharpie on the relay socket. I also printed this whole document this document from @boertje off and put it in a 3 ring binder. I then used the margins to make notes for when I do this again. And if I find another cheap automatic it will happen again. The asking price for these cars has tripled in the last year or so.

 

[alphaseinor]

I'm still around, but yeah, the number of people doing the swaps dropped to basically nothing, and I'm unofficially retired from doing car stuff.

the worst part about the web is nothing is forever, I'd say 99% of this thread is people looking for wiring help, even with the documentation, pictures, etc. I still get phone calls with people asking for help.

I'd say GEFP is probably the closest to being right. The ALH swap is the best documented on here (somewhere on the 90+ pages), where the mk4 PD engines are the worst.

If you start from the back and work your way forward you'll probably find more of the PD information that way, and might only need to go 40 pages deep.

I'm probably the one to blame for the length of this thread more than anyone since I did this in my 1 car apartment garage, with no lights, and when "cell phones" didn't come with an apple logo. We walked uphill both ways in the snow, and liked it

Glad to help any way I can, if you run into any issues, ask here, and there's thousands of people who have completed this swap. If I don't know it by heart, someone else also does.

 

[WorldWideTigger]

Well, for the last month or so (Saturdays) I transformed my 2002 VW Jetta TDI Sedan from an automatic to the five speed manual. Of course all of this followed a month of reading the forums. Thank you all for your wisdom.
I was lucky enough to purchase the majority of the parts from a gentleman NW of Harrisburg, PA.
Parts collected (used);
Transmission, shifter, axles, starter, egr delete, larger turbo with manifold and leather interior.
Parts bought (new) for the swap;
Sachs Clutch package, throw out bearing, inner cv joints, manual hp power steering line.
I rebuilt the front suspension to include slotted and drilled rotors on all four corners. Shocks and struts were replaced last year. The majority of the new parts came from Rock Auto.
All said and done, this car is a blast to drive (It also has the Malone 1.5 tune), especially for being twenty years old.
Truth be told, I still have not tackled any of the wiring. Still need back up lights and cruise control.
Wife asked me one weekend how it was looking. I told her I had two thoughts. One: that it's going to run like a champ or Two: we're going to own a ten thousand dollar paper weight!

 

[PakProtector]

I have left the ECM wiring out...and so have no cruise. The rest is not so bad; follow boertge's written instructions and reverse worked and so does the clutch to start bit. That I would not mind a shorting switch just in case I want to start it in gear. The rest of the cruise wiring underneath at the 175 relay is done, but that multi-pin ECM connector is scary... LOL
cheers,
Douglas

 

[Nuje]

I just did a 5sp swap (fourth one now, I think), and while the wiring isn't my favourite part, I think I finally wrapped my head around it and could do it without staring at the wiring diagrams incessantly.

• TCM connector in the plenum chamber: disconnect the connector and find a yellow/red wire and yellow/blue wire in it - make sure they have continuity with respective same-coloured wires in ECM connector (Pin #19 - yellow/red) and at the 175 relay (Pin #9 - yellow/blue).
  • Cut each of those wires so you have a few inches to work with
  • Butt-connect the two wires together (yellow-red connected to yellow/blue)
• Larger of the two ECM connectors: Pull the yellow/red wire out of Pin #19 and pop it into position #66 (should be no wire there).

And that's it for wiring in the plenum chamber.
The larger PITA for me, mostly due to confined work area, is that wiring at the 175 (soon to be 53) relay.

 

[Wiytboi]

ok ive been going page by page trying to pull 1.8t 09a info just to wrap my head around it. i got it all mechanically done. haven't started the electrical part yet. but i have a strong understanding of what abouts needs to be done im just concerned about 1 thing.. from my basic reading im gathering that with most people that have the mechanical part done and not electrical your either in 1 of 2 situations.. It starts and runs, minus speedometer and safety switches and reveres lights.. or It wont even try and start at all.. what about if it starts. and then 1 second later shuts off.. just like the immobilizer does if the keys not programmed into the immobilizer.. has anyone run into that situation and any idea what the reasoning behind why it does that? is it just cause i haven't wired the vss and my cars a later model probably with updated safety? any light someone can shed upon it would be great.. i guess ill just got ahead and get on with the electrical part and hope it fixes said issue.

 

[Nuje]

Have you changed the coding of the engine module using VCDS (or similar)?
Could be that the engine quits when it looks for a TCU and sees nothing to communicate with at the other end (?).
(Zero experience with the 09A, so that's all conjecture)

 

[boertje]

On vwvortex someone did a nice thread on a gasser 01m to 02j swap. There might be some there you can glean from for your 1.8t and 09a combo.

01M to 02J transmission swap on my 2001 Jetta 2.0 (AZG)...

01M to 02J transmission swap on my 2001 Jetta 2.0 (AZG) silver (DIY on Page 4) WRITE UP AND PICS ARE ON PAGE 4 Well...I'm tired of this 01M business so I 've decided to do the swap. One because it's sensible and two because it will be fun. The Jetta first went into limp mode a few months ago...

www.vwvortex.com

 

[Torb5000]

Has the BEW 02E to 02J been done by anyone? I have no idea what to do about the wiring. Runs and drives great compared to the 1.5 ton paper weight it was before but needs to be started with a tool under the hood right now because the starter signal wire has a different connector than the alh starter at a minimum. Only code it has is for missing trans communications.

 

[JohnTF]

My car is the one to the left .
I am looking at a 2005 Jetta diesel manual complete car , the question is the 05 parts for my 03 a good / complete trans swap - it would nice to have a complete car / parts to do the swap ?

 

[emperorpatrickiv]

To those that did the hard work in figuring out how to do this swap - Thank you.
I hope someone here can help me. I have recently completed the auto to 6 speed manual swap on an 01 jetta ALH. My only issue now is that although I have recoded the ECM, I am getting a CEL, with the only codes saying that the modules cannot find the TCM. It is kind of acting like although the ECM says it is coded to a manual (00002), it is acting like it is still coded to an auto (00001) - with the codes that are showing and the fact that my engine did not run any differently - no rough running or mpg increase or need to adjust the IQ. Additionally, the cruise cancel switch on the clutch pedal does not work, but the one on the brake does. I will post the vag-com output below. I have followed different variations of the methods of recoding the ECM which have been posted in this thread, to no avail.

Monday,19,December,2022,17:54:42:30934
VCDS -- Windows Based VAG/VAS Emulator Running on Windows 10 x64
VCDS Version: 22.10.0.1 (x64) HEX-V2 CB: 0.4623.4
Data version: 20221026 DS344.0
www.Ross-Tech.com


Mileage: 450720km-280064mi Repair Order:



--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Chassis Type: 9M - VW Jetta IV (1998 > 2014)
Scan: 01 02 03 08 09 15 16 17 19 22 29 35 36 37 39 46 47 55 56 57
75 76

Mileage: 450720km-280064miles
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 01: Engine Labels: 038-906-012-AGR.clb
Part No: 038 906 012 CP
Component: 1,9l R4 EDC G030SG 2839
Coding: 00002
Shop #: WSC 12345
VCID: 6099AC74F3542E6B8B2-4B3C

1 Fault Found:
18034 - Powertrain Data Bus
P1626 - 35-00 - Missing Message from TCU
Readiness: 1 1 0 1 1

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 03: ABS Brakes Labels: 1C0-907-37x-ABS.lbl
Part No: 1C0 907 379 C
Component: ABS FRONT MK60 0103
Coding: 0001025
Shop #: WSC 12345 111 45799
VCID: 2A0D0E5CC0E8A43B956-5184

1 Fault Found:
01315 - Transmission Control Module
004 - No Signal/Communication

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 15: Airbags Labels: 6Q0-909-605-VW5.lbl
Part No: 6Q0 909 605 F
Component: 04 AIRBAG VW6 0202 0004
Coding: 12340
Shop #: WSC 00066
VCID: 3A2D3E1C354814BBE56-4B5C

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 17: Instruments Labels: 1J0-920-xx5-17.lbl
Part No: 1J0 920 905 M
Component: A4-KOMBIINSTR. VDO V53
Coding: 07234
Shop #: WSC 12345
VCID: 313F1930E83ED7E354C-5184

Subsystem 1 - Part No: IMMO
Component: IDENTNR: VWZ7Z0A3472737
IMMO-IDENTNR: VWZ7Z0A3472737

1 Fault Found:
01315 - Transmission Control Module
49-00 - No Communications

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 19: CAN Gateway Labels: 6N0-909-901-19.clb
Part No: 6N0 909 901
Component: Gateway K<->CAN 0001
Coding: 00007
Shop #: WSC 00066
VCID: 70B9DC3423B49EEB1B2-5184

1 Fault Found:
01315 - Transmission Control Module
49-00 - No Communications

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 46: Central Conv. Labels: 1J0-959-799.lbl
Part No: 1J0 959 799 AJ
Component: 61 Zentral-SG Komf. 0001
Coding: 04096
Shop #: WSC 00066
VCID: 06559AEC3130A05BD1E-4B1E

Subsystem 1 - Part No: 1J1959801C
Component: 61 Tõrsteuerger. FS0002r

Subsystem 2 - Part No: 1J1959802D
Component: 61 Tõrsteuerger. BF0002r

Subsystem 3 - Part No: 1J4959811C
Component: 61 Tõrsteuerger. HL0002r

Subsystem 4 - Part No: 1J4959812C
Component: 61 Tõrsteuerger. HR0002r

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 56: Radio Labels: 1J0-035-18x-56.clb
Part No: 1JM 035 157 A
Component: Radio DE2 0005
Coding: 02042
Shop #: WSC 00066
VCID: 3E25320C2960389BD9E-51F2

No fault code found.

End----------(Elapsed Time: 05:13, VBatt start/end: 13.5V/13.7V)---------

 

[alphaseinor]

go into 19 - can gateway, read the coding, save the coding, cycle the key and clear codes. this will reset the can gateway to stop looking for the TCU.

 

[emperorpatrickiv]

go into 19 - can gateway, read the coding, save the coding, cycle the key and clear codes. this will reset the can gateway to stop looking for the TCU.

Ok I will try that. I just want o be clear here - what do you mean by 'read the coding? Do you mean to code it to 00006, turn key off, turn key on, clear all codes in all modules? Would the best place to do this be in the OBDII part of the VCDS program, in the auto scan at the end, or do you mean in only the CAN gateway by hitting the 'clear DTC's ' button?

I know, lots of questions for something so simple, but I want to really understand the exact steps - I am still learning how to use the vag-com tool and the VCDS software.

 

[alphaseinor]

There's a coding section on the right side of the VCDS, click that coding button, then there's something like save changes (It might be done go back, something like that).

Basically when you try to modify coding it'll automatically recode itself to the car in most later MK4 cars from 2002+

 

[emperorpatrickiv]

There's a coding section on the right side of the VCDS, click that coding button, then there's something like save changes (It might be done go back, something like that).

Basically when you try to modify coding it'll automatically recode itself to the car in most later MK4 cars from 2002+

It is a 2001 ALH. Do I just leave the current coding then (I think it is 00007)? I was under the impression that 00007 was for an automatic and 00006 was for the manual.

I will try this tomorrow, unless I get further clarification before then.

 

[boertje]

Here is the section about this coding found in my howto page 35.

On MY 2001 and earlier, go to CAN-bus gateway>coding and change the 7 to a 6 to remove the automatic transmission feature.
Look at the last digit in the coding. Add the values for the options together to get the correct coding.
0 - No available equipment

+1 - Automatic Transmission

+2 - ABS Brakes
+4 - Airbags
So, if you want to support Automatic Transmission, ABS Brakes, and Airbags, (add 1+2+4 = 7) = 00007. Note: 2002+ models do not need to be coded separately for automatic transmission, so a 2002 with Automatic Transmission, ABS Brakes, and Airbags, (add 2+4 = 6) = 00006. In my Golf, the coding was 7 so I changed it to 6 which subtracted the automatic.
Not necessary on MY 2002 and later. However, It has been discovered that some 2002 and later cars are having TCU communications error codes even though the wiring and coding was done correctly. If the 19-CAN Gateway is checked with these cars, the value is 6 as it should be. What is interesting (thanks to “the*rogue” for this one) is that if the value is changed to a 6, which it already is, and saved, it forces the ECU to rescan the devices and finding no TCU, it is now happy and the codes do not reappear.
Make sure you cycle the key after each change and then check for fault codes.

 

[emperorpatrickiv]

Thanks for the help guys. I think it stopped giving a code for the CAN bus looking for the TCM, but now I have consistant glow plug errors. I will fix that and see if the CEL's persist. I am still getting codes for the ECM looking for the TCM, but I do not know if that will trigger the CEL. The engine still does not seem to be running any differently like I have read about, so Ill see.

 

[alphaseinor]

You shouldn't have any glowplug codes from the swap unless you are an 04+ MK4. Those codes are for the coolant glowplugs and won't cause a CEL.

Glowplugs are only used for starting the vehicle, they don't affect how it runs. "Technically" they aren't even used under 40F degrees

 

[emperorpatrickiv]

I do know about the two different sets of glowplugs. Im not even sure if my vehicle has coolant glowplugs. I do know that (from the research I have been able to do) that the engine glowplugs will throw a CEL and a code if there is something wrong there, and the glowplug harness is as old as the car and has become stiff and a bit brittle (I cracked a bit off the end near where it plugs into the glowplug a couple of years ago), and im not sure how old the glowplugs are. I do have a replacement harness, but it is inaccessable atm as I am moving. When I go to change the harness, I will check the resistance of the plugs and see if there are any problems there.

 

[Kyle marquis]

do you happen to have a diagram or something so I know which wires get jumpered and switched? I already have the vss wired in.

 

[codeweiler]

Look up a few posts for boertje. He has it in his signature

do you happen to have a diagram or something so I know which wires get jumpered and switched? I already have the vss wired in.