Well I took a break to work on a couple other projects for a couple of months and put it back in the shop . Turns out when I installed relay 53 it had pushed the terminal out the back causing the no start problem . Also the blue clutch switch appears to have been bad causing it to keep running after I turned off the key . (unplugged and it turned off and ohmed out defective )I'm curious too; once you figure this out, please be sure to post back here - very interested in what would/could cause such bizarre behaviour.
Have a look at the how to in my sig. it might help.Holy crap! Im pretty overwhelmed by reading all of this. It’s starting to make sense. My electrical expertise are as far as “go wire that panel” or “go run that line” haha. I have everything done except for wiring everything and mounting the clutch pedal :l
I’m cross referencing the wiring in the Bentley between my 2003 ALH Wagon and a DQY 5 speed out of a wrecked diesel NB.. I changed the tower out and put on the sigma. Yay.
Am I going overboard on changing out these connectors and re-pinning them??
Thanks for all of the helpful info everyone.
This is great!
Hey boertje! Thanks for that. I already have your PDF from instuctables haha
That’s what i found on my 2002 Jetta wagon and my 2000 golf and also on my 2003 bug iirc. I had found pin locations to be consistent.Hi Boertje,
Question regarding your wiring diagram you have in your sig: you edited GDB's original document. How do I know if his or your colors are correct for wiring in the cruise control, reverse lights etc for my 2003 mk4 golf. Are the pin locations and functions always the same between the different Golf/Jettas? Or can the pins vary as well as the color of the wires at the pins.
I believe it was the right pin. I will pull the ecu connection and check again but I went through it in my head like 5 times while I was doing it. Either wrong pin, not secured, or I have a loose connection somewhere along the way but should not be a hard fix I'm thinking. I'll post what happened when I get to it and figure it out!Did you swap the pin that’s required at the ecu to , I believe , pin # 66, it’s just a relocation to that spot from another spot.
My first ever post on a forum and I've probably done this wrong... But thanks very much to boertje (and other contributors) for the excellent guide! I've just converted mine from an 01M to a 6-speed manual and wouldn't have been able to do it otherwise. Just in case there's anyone else out there without proper facilities whose afraid of tackling this... I did this on my driveway without assistance - it took a long time and I nearly gave up a few times but I got there in the end! The only time I had to go underneath was to remove the catalyst, but I did this with the car on the ground. The rest was achievable from the side/above. Thanks again!
Followup:I believe it was the right pin. I will pull the ecu connection and check again but I went through it in my head like 5 times while I was doing it. Either wrong pin, not secured, or I have a loose connection somewhere along the way but should not be a hard fix I'm thinking. I'll post what happened when I get to it and figure it out!
I don't know if this helps, but while I still had the plastic trim off from under the steering wheel I managed to start the car by cutting the brown wire going to the 175 relay (as per Boertje's instructions), removing the plastic cover from the relay and then manually pushing the contacts together. Probably best not to drive it like this because of the lack of reversing lights and the fiddliness of starting it if you should stall!First and foremost, thanks to the contributors. This makes it possible. Can't say thanks enough.
A question: for initial fire, assuming that *NOTHING is done but the mechanicals( no reverse lights, no clutch interlock, no cruise switch/wiring and likely a missing 175 relay...can this be fired up by turning the key on and then using a bump switch on the starter solenoid? I assume I will get a handful of codes, but that is quite fine as long as I can make it run quickly. Part of this is I want to avoid having it sitting not running for too long, and the other is I want to know if the switch to manual coding has any effect on its running( like IQ ).
Car in question is an '02 Jetta.
A follow-up; is there any other re-code needed but the 00001 to 0002. Trans is an EGR-code 5sp. Is the CAN Gateway stuff applicable 7 to 6? I suspect that is a 'maybe, but check and re-enter 6' if need be.
I wish I could know exactly what is going on with manual injection coding. I expect to shift the beast with a hammer. I have a set of manual injectors to slip in first( freeing the auto's for a trip to the noozle shop ). We shall see. Making sure my IDP list is Right, then work on the wiring whilst I wait for it to arrive. I'll probably confirm clutch centering by mating up the gearbox...Yeah do like Nuje suggests….4-5.
I believe the fueling changes is because the auto’s have a11MM IP with small nozzles…..the manuals have a 10 MM IP with larger nozzles , so now your telling the “ECU hey I’m a manual now” but you have a bigger pump….. just my thought.
From what I remember, the original schematic (Gdb) is wrong on some colors. But there was a later edit, from boertje, which fixed the colors and highlighted the original and new fixed colors.ALright some inconsistencies found. The schematic( the 'Before' and 'After' ones) have grey/red and yellow/blue wires mislabeled between pins 3 and 9, and the schematic picture shows blue/yellow wire for reverse and red/gray for cruise but the instructions call out the relay pins and colors correctly for their colors, they don't match the schematic.
So, I rang out the blue yellow for reverse at the 8-pin( the TR plug), and used the proper 12V supply...and of course joined the blue/yellow wire to the relay#4 black/blue wire inside. The white starter interlock was fine, right pins and colours called out. The red-gray I have left for the cruise/blue switch...I have a feeling this is where the trouble is going to start...but I think I can ring out the red/gray and put it to my ECU pin 66 properly...
Soooo...I re-built the connections based on their pin numbers from the text of Boertje's text instructions. His wire colours matched mine, and the schematic is slightly off on its colours. I have the TCM/ECM work to do and install the clutch pedal bits. More as proof it works, when it works...