PROJECT: Golf TDI track car build

[Keystoner16]

Hello.
I have a 2004 Golf GLS TDI that I have decided to turn into a track car.
I have already driven the car in 3 track days (2 at PIR in Portland, OR, and 1 at ORP in Grass Valley, OR)
The car was mostly stock for all of these save the the last one, and felt much better than I was expecting.
I am looking to do major work to it now, and have started this thread as a way of archiving the build.


What I have done:
-Camshaft (stock), lifters, and injector seals
-Timing belt and water pump
-Transmission fluid exchange
-Various filter changes
-Lower control arms
-Stock steel wheels with 195/50R16 Continental Extreme Contact DWS06 tires
These items were all performed when I bought the car a little over a year ago.

Track oriented work already performed includes:
-EBC Yellow stuff pads (Front and rear)
-10mm spacers behind rear stub axles
-Neuspeed springs, and Koni Orange shocks (Front and rear)
-Adjustable front stabilizer bar end links
-VNT-17 Turbo (no tune yet)
-Kerma TDI "Old Man Intake"
-Kerma TDI updated oil cooler

What I plan to do:
-Techtonics Tuning Turbo back exhaust 2.5"
-Audi TT front suspension conversion to include Spindles, hubs, brakes, axles, and hopefully steering rack. I am also wanting to run the USRT subframe, and USRT control arms.
-Solid rear axle beam bushings
-Sparco Sprint seat
-Full New South gauges to include Oil temp, Oil pressure, Boost, EGT, and Voltmeter
-AIM Solo 2 lap timer (so I can keep track of how not fast I am...)
-Malone stage 2 tune
-Alloy wheels fitted with better tires (semi slick-ish)

This is obviously a never ending rabbit hole, so I will update the thread as I add new things. I am hoping to get the above work completed before the start of the upcoming 2022 season, but that very well may not happen....
Finally, a pic of the car fitted with winter tires, as non racey as can be....



Thanks for looking.

 

[TurboABA]

Awesome.... I don't see any mention of a diet or anything.... is there a reason?

 

[Keystoner16]

Awesome.... I don't see any mention of a diet or anything.... is there a reason?

By "diet" I assume you mean weight reduction of the vehicle.
I remove the seats when I am doing track days, but for now, I still need to use the car on a daily basis. At some point, I am hoping that will no longer be the case, at which point I will absolutely look at lightening the vehicle.

 

[IndigoBlueWagon]

Why widen the rear track? If anything, it will increase understeer, which these cars have too much of already.

Two things that will really improve lap times: Tires and alignment. Get the lightest 16" wheels you can find and the best track tires you can afford. Slicks are best, but they're expensive and don't last long. The best Hoosiers I used on IBW were about $250 each and lasted about 12 hours of track time. But there are less expensive alternatives. I think 225/50-16s are the sweet spot for tire size, but you need 7" wide wheels to use those. If you end up with 6.5" wide wheels use 205-55/16s.

Also, get camber plates and get as close as you can to 3 degrees negative camber in front. That will make a world of difference in front grip. You might want a rear sway bar to help the car rotate, I used a Shine bar in my car, and it does help a lot.

Here's an old photo of my '99.5 Golf in track mode. Used those wheels to go to and from, have Motegi Traklites for use on the track.

 

[Rrusse11]

I'd recommend an LSD. And I too have spacers on the rear. Don't know what kind of track you'll be on,
whether or not a taller 5th is in order. Definitely do a skid plate and top strut tie bar, and I've got
a bar across the rear top seat belt points, that'll stiffen up the little box that the Golf is.
Enkei RFP1s are the wheels I lust after that kinda' reasonably priced, ~$900 for a set and <14#s @.
Have fun!

 

[Keystoner16]

Why widen the rear track? If anything, it will increase understeer, which these cars have too much of already.

Two things that will really improve lap times: Tires and alignment. Get the lightest 16" wheels you can find and the best track tires you can afford. Slicks are best, but they're expensive and don't last long. The best Hoosiers I used on IBW were about $250 each and lasted about 12 hours of track time. But there are less expensive alternatives. I think 225/50-16s are the sweet spot for tire size, but you need 7" wide wheels to use those. If you end up with 6.5" wide wheels use 205-55/16s.

Also, get camber plates and get as close as you can to 3 degrees negative camber in front. That will make a world of difference in front grip. You might want a rear sway bar to help the car rotate, I used a Shine bar in my car, and it does help a lot.

I will not be running a front sway bar, as it will be deleted when I do the TT spindle swap. Eventually, I may install the TT front bar, but that will include TT front shocks, so for now I will run without a front sway bar, and see how it is.

The lower control arms that I am planning to run allow for some camber adjustment at the ball joint. I'll see how far I can get there, but will probably end up running camber plates, as well.

What, if any, advice do you have regarding toe setting??

 

[Keystoner16]

I'd recommend an LSD. And I too have spacers on the rear. Don't know what kind of track you'll be on,
whether or not a taller 5th is in order. Definitely do a skid plate and top strut tie bar, and I've got
a bar across the rear top seat belt points, that'll stiffen up the little box that the Golf is.
Enkei RFP1s are the wheels I lust after that kinda' reasonably priced, ~$900 for a set and <14#s @.
Have fun!

Thanks.
A rebuilt trans is definitely on the want list, and an LSD would definitely be included, but probably not going to happen this winter.
So far I have not run on any tracks with straights long enough to be maxing out my 5th gear.

I was looking at some Enkei PX-10s for wheels.

Just out of curiosity, what tracks do you frequent over there?
I am from Allentown, PA and will be moving back to the area this Summer, so I'll need to find some new tracks.

 

[IndigoBlueWagon]

The H&R springs are probably too soft to let you run without a front bar. Handling will be sloppy and you'll get a lot of body roll. I tried disconnecting the front bar with Shine VR6 front springs, and those were still too soft. If you want to stick with the H&R springs I'd run bars at both ends. There's a space on the TT control arms you can drill out to connect the end link, or you can buy TT struts that have a endlink connection point..

 

[Keystoner16]

The H&R springs are probably too soft to let you run without a front bar. Handling will be sloppy and you'll get a lot of body roll. I tried disconnecting the front bar with Shine VR6 front springs, and those were still too soft. If you want to stick with the H&R springs I'd run bars at both ends. There's a space on the TT control arms you can drill out to connect the end link, or you can buy TT struts that have a endlink connection point..

The vehicle is fitted with Neuspeed springs, as mentioned in the first post. Probably won't make a difference, just clarifying.
Also mentioned in the first post, I am planning to run the USRT subframe and tubular control arms. Anyway, I don't much like the idea of drilling holes into the arms. I will probably talk to USRT prior to ordering to see what options I have.

 

[IndigoBlueWagon]

You'd be better off with coilovers where you can choose the rate and length springs you want, and also can try and corner balance the car. I say try to because these cars don't lend themselves to corner balancing. I ran 700 lb front and 450 lb rear springs with Koni coilovers in my wagon. They worked great. Zero body roll so no unfavorable geometry changes in corners.

 

[Rrusse11]

"what tracks do you frequent over there?"

I'm no racer, wish I could afford it, but no. Just like a nice handling car that's fun to drive, and economical to run.
If you've read the "What is Handling" thread, I lean to the GT style of driving. My setup is pretty thoroughly
detailed in my signature. Bigger brakes all round are WELL worth it. And with an LSD, you can control
understeer with throttle in corners IMO. For years I drove cab, where there's a positive incentive, $s earned,
to getting around as fast as possible. The rules were; Don't hit anything; Don't get caught; Don't scare the
customer; Don't break anything, lol, even it wasn't your car. I knew every pothole in this small town when
I was driving, if there's a category for inner city rally driving, I'm in! And couple that with long hours,
you have to know your limitations.

As an addendum, I drove 2100-0700hrs, so little to no traffic most of the time.

 

[Keystoner16]

Well, it looks like the TT front suspension swap is going to be a bridge too far at the present time (ie: I can't afford it).
I have a bunch of the parts needed for the swap already, so this will be for next winter.

What I am doing.
-Seat and mount ordered
-Solid control arm bushings ordered
-USRT solid rear beam bushings ordered and received
-Tyrolsport solid subframe bushings and steering rack mount ordered
-Solid shifter mount bushings and cable ends ordered
-Diesel geek shifter rebuild kit received
-3 out of 5 New South gauges received. EGT and Oil pressure are supposed to ship in January.
-AIM Solo 2 lap timer ordered


I decided to try stiffening up the stock suspension and see how that feels. So, I ordered a bunch of solid bushings which I plan to install.
I have the rear beam bushings already, but I'm working on building a tool so I change out the bearings on the car. I've been told that I will be changing these bearings out fairly often, so I want to create some tooling to make the job easier.

I'm also working on the gauge panel while I wait for the last 2 to ship/arrive.

Still have some chassis stiffening, and wheels/tires to buy. But, this is pretty much everything I am wanting to get done before the season begins.

First track day is 03/26 at Oregon Raceway Park. So I've got my work cut out.

 

[Keystoner16]

Well, hell.

The last two NewSouth gauges (EGT & Oil pressure) were yet again delayed, this time until March. I finally had enough and cancelled the order.
Went ahead and bought a set of 5 AutoMeter Z series gauges. These will not look as good as NewSouth ones would have, but they will tell me what I want to know.
I have finished the gauge panel, and am just waiting on some wiring pieces I ordered to go ahead and install it.

Solid control arm bearings and solid sub frame bushings have both been received. I ordered a used sub frame from a local salvage yard, and lucky me it came with the control arms still attached. I went ahead and sand blasted the control arms and painted them with Eastwood Chassis Black, then installed the solid the control arm bearings. I am using bearings that I ordered from Noath Precision in the UK. Sub frame is still waiting to be cleaned up, and have solid bushings installed. The idea is to have as much prep work complete as possible before the car gets pulled apart.

I have received the solid steering rack mount, and solid shifter bushings which will be installed with sub frame, control arms, etc.

Solid shifter cable ends are back ordered pretty much indefinitely. ECS sucks, BTW.

AIM Solo2 lap timer is in. I will be using the windshield mount for that.

Seat and all necessary mounts are in as well. Kinda bummed as the seat is way tighter on my hips that I was planning. Gonna have to go with it and try to make it work for at least one season. There is not a lot available, and the lack of customer service that I have been dealing with has me at my wit's end.

Finally, I got the dieselgeek shifter bushing kit installed this past weekend. I also shimmed the ball, except I uses .010 shim stock rather than card stock.

Pics soon.

 

[Mongler98]

Whatever you do..
. Put RE71s tires on it and only run those on track not street even though they are a dot legal tire... somehow.... there only good for about 25 to 30 events/ cycles. I have yet to get more than 28 events from them before tred is gone...

 

[Keystoner16]

Whatever you do..
. Put RE71s tires on it and only run those on track not street even though they are a dot legal tire... somehow.... there only good for about 25 to 30 events/ cycles. I have yet to get more than 28 events from them before tred is gone...

Oops.

Yeah y'know TireRack didn't have those in the size I wanted, and given that last year I ran a set of Continental ExtremeContact DWS06, I figured it wouldn't be too tough to do better.

Ended up with a set of OZ Supertourismo GTs 16x7, and 4 Kumho Ecsta V730 205/55R16, which I think will do just fine.
The Kumhos got mixed reviews on TireRack, but most people seemed to like them well enough.

I have used RE71s and I do agree they are an amazing tire, no doubt far better the my Kumhos. It just didn't work out this time.

 

[3L3M3NT]

How was last years and the beginning of this years track days been going?

What did you manage to get installed/upgraded on the car since you posted last year? I've got a little bit of experience building an 04 TDI for the track and could give you some input on some different upgrades to consider.

 

[Keystoner16]

How was last years and the beginning of this years track days been going?

What did you manage to get installed/upgraded on the car since you posted last year? I've got a little bit of experience building an 04 TDI for the track and could give you some input on some different upgrades to consider.

Hello.
The last year or so has been pretty horrible to be honest.
I moved from OR to PA last June so all track activities went by the wayside.
I spent the last year in PA. Never managed to get any track stuff figured out, and had no decent place to work on the car so no real progress there either.
Now, we are in the process of moving back to OR (Long-ish story). I am looking forward to having a facility to work on the car again, and 2 tracks that I am well familiar with, as well. The plan is going to be to work on the car over the Winter, and hope to be ready to go next Spring.

The one thing I have managed to to is to get the gauge panel made, install the gauges and build a harness.




I used weather pack connectors and built the harness so that once installed, the gauge panel can be disconnected and removed from the vehicle if need be.

I'm more than happy to listen to an advice you might have to offer. Thanks.

 

[3L3M3NT]

Sounds like you were rather busy with moving last year. Hopefully now that you're back in Oregon you can make some more headway with the car.
The one thing that I noticed is you purchased a boost gauge meant for a gas engine. Your TDI will never draw vacuum like a gas engine will. The gauge will still do the job, but will be slightly harder to read compared to the boost gauge in the link below.
NewSouth 0-35 Boost Gauge

The main things you're looking for in a track car is good handling, braking, and acceleration. The one item that can help all three of those categories is tires. If you plan on driving your TDI to the track you'll wanna look into a 200 Treadwear tire. Tirerack is a great place to look at the different options in the size tire you're running.
Here's a review of some of new 200 TW tires. https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tests/testDisplay.jsp?ttid=302

If you're able to bring a second set of wheels and tires to the tack by either towing the car there or by putting them in your car or you could tow a trailer there with all of your track stuff would allow you the ability to run a semi-slick or slick tires. They're more expensive, but they offer substantially more grip than the 200 TW tires.
Some tires to consider: https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tire...45WR7048&vehicleSearch=false&fromCompare1=yes
https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tire...YR7F1S3R&vehicleSearch=false&fromCompare1=yes
https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tire...245ZR7R7&vehicleSearch=false&fromCompare1=yes
https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tire...5ZR7PXRR&vehicleSearch=false&fromCompare1=yes

Besides tires, the next best investment you can make to get your car to do better in all 3 of those categories is by getting a lightweight set of wheels. I personally run 17" rims due to the brake kit that I have on my cars. You may be able to run a 16" wheel, but it'll limit you on what Big Brake Kit(BBK) you can run on your car. 17s are kind of a happy medium, that'll clear most BBK, fairly easy to find, fairly affordable, and tires aren't too bad price wise.
Eneki RPF1 is a popular choice and I'm personally a fan of OZ Racing Ultraleggeras.

From there it's really up to you which area you spend your money on.
To improve the handling of your car you can upgrade to either Audi TT or MKIV R32 spindles, but I believe that you were already planning on upgrading those.
I found it was easier to find the Audi TT spindles and when I did some research, people recommended the 03-06 spindles.
You could also upgrade the control arms on your car.
I'm currently running these control arms on my RTDI: https://www.eurologicparts.com/collections/control-arms/products/mk4-adjustable-control-arms
A few other options that you can consider: https://www.eurologicparts.com/collections/control-arms/products/mk4-standard-tubular-control-arms
https://www.fablessmanufacturing.co...ducts/tubular-control-arms-heim-vw-mk4-beetle
https://gray-fabrication.com/products/mk4-tubular-adjustable-control-arm
https://www.justengineering.ca/shop/vw-group/suspension-arms/control-amr-stage-1/
https://www.justengineering.ca/shop/vw-group/suspension-arms/stage-2/
https://shop.redline360.com/product...ta-mk4-199-5-2005-front-lower-adjustable-arms

That'll get you started and I'll post some more stuff either later on today or hopefully tomorrow some time.

 

[3L3M3NT]

The next items you can look at upgrading would be suspension related.
A good set of coilovers will make a decent difference with body roll and the diving you get when you brake hard or same when you accelerate hard.
Some options to consider, but I would stay away from the really cheap coilovers, since you'll end up having to replace them eventually with a quality set. https://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Golf_IV--TDI/Suspension/Coilovers/
The ones to strongly consider.
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-bc-racing-parts/bc-br-rn-mk4-golf-jetta-new-beetle/h-02-br~bcr/
https://www.idparts.com/koni-coilover-set-1150-5083-1150-5083-p-1083.html
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-kw-suspension-parts/kw-v1-series-coilover-kit-fixed-damping/10280061/
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-bilstein-parts/b14-pss-coilover-kit-fixed-damping/47-124851~bil/

Another upgrade that's going to help get the power to the ground and provide you additional grip to pull you out of the corners is a Limited Slip Differential (LSD)
The main 2 brands to consider are Peloquin and Wavetrac. https://www.cascadegerman.com/product/02j498005a/
https://www.cascadegerman.com/product/10-309-180wk/

I know that those are more expensive items, but they make quite a difference in the way your car will perform on the track.

 

[3L3M3NT]

You can tighten up the car with different bushings in certain areas.
The mains ones that I'd recommend are:
If you don't go with a set of tubular control arms, then you can upgrade the control arm bushings.
https://www.cascadegerman.com/product/8n0407181b-set/
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/vw-control-arm-bushing-kit-meyle-kit-8n0407181bkt2
https://usrallyteam.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=967
https://performancemrp.com/i-30497772-scch-mk2-to-mk4-volkswagen-control-arm-bearing-kit.html
Control arms with Audi TT bushings in them already. https://www.cascadegerman.com/product/1j0407151b-set/

You can upgrade to solid subframe bushings. https://www.cascadegerman.com/product/subframe-bushing-mk4-aluminum/
https://itsnotstock.com/csh-mk4-solid-front-subframe-bushings/
https://www.tyrolsport.com/suspension/chassis/tyrolsport-vw-mk4-solid-subframe-bushings/
Since you'll have to drop the subframe to install the subframe bushings, you might as well upgrade the steering rack bracket to a solid one. https://www.tyrolsport.com/suspensi...steering-rack-bracket-for-mk4-vw/mk1-audi-tt/

Then you could upgrade the strut mount bushings when you upgrade your suspension. https://www.cascadegerman.com/product/1ml412331-set/

You could upgrade your rear beam bushings too.
https://www.cascadegerman.com/product/6ll501541-set/

To get the car to rotate better you can install a rear sway bar (RSB).
https://kermatdi.com/i-2970-neuspeed-anti-sway-bar-rear-28mm-golf-jetta-mk4-a-10.html
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-neuspeed-parts/rear-sway-bar-28mm/25.10.28.8~neu/
https://kermatdi.com/i-1610-kermatdi-shine-real-street-rear-sway-bar-ec-1.html

There might be a few other bushings that you can replace that I'm forgetting, but those should be the main ones that will notice the most.

 

[Keystoner16]

I realize the diesel engine will not ever pull vacuum. However, given that New South was not able to supply all the gauges I wanted(See post#13). I went with the AutoMeter gauges because they were all available. As long as the boost gauge accurately shows my boost pressure, I really don't care that it has a vacuum side as well.

I have already purchased wheels and 200 tread wear tires. (See post #15)

Also I have already purchased solid sub frame and front control arm bushings, as well as solid rear beam bushings. (See post #13)


Thanks for the ideas.

 

[IndigoBlueWagon]

I have already purchased wheels and 200 tread wear tires. (See post #15)

The best track day tires I ever used were Hoosier slicks. Treadwear 60. I calculated they lasted about 12 hours of track sessions. Not cheap, but boy were they sticky. I'd usually do warmups on Kumhos that I used to drive to the track, and when I put the Hoosiers on it was a night and day difference. I had them on 12 lb. Motegi Traklites and so they were super light, too. They were 225/50-16s, and the wheel/tire combo weighed 32 lbs.

 

[3L3M3NT]

Another great way to pick up time on the track is with a good set of brakes, since you can put on the brakes way later than you ever thought possible.
To start with, you could upgrade to a better set of pads and rotors.
Different companies to consider going with.
https://www.g-locbrakes.com/
https://www.hawkperformance.com/
https://ctbrakes.com/
Here's a variety of pads. https://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Golf_IV--2.0/Braking/Pads/

After brake pads and rotors you can upgrade with other model brakes. https://www.myturbodiesel.com/d2/1000q/a4/BB-upgrade-kit-mk4-VW.htm
https://www.vwvortex.com/threads/the-brakes-of-the-mk4-platform-oem-and-upgrades.846180/
https://www.clubgti.com/forums/index.php?threads/the-mk4-brake-upgrade-sizes-info.260016/

You could upgrade to a true 4 or 6 piston front big brake kit (BBK) right away or wait and see how one of the factory upgrades works for you.
There's a multitude of BBK, but here are some of the ones I considered.
https://tech-53.com/product/mk4-front-big-brake-kit-wilwood-12-1-inch/
https://racingbrake.com/2187-k/
https://apracing.com/performance-up...w/golf-mk4-gti-front-6-piston-kit-cp5570-1003
https://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Golf_IV--2.0/Braking/Performance/Front/
http://www.rotorlab.com/full-brake-kits
https://blackforestindustries.com/products/mk4-brembo-gt-4-piston-323x28-brake-kit-1-piece-rotors
https://www.vwvortex.com/threads/my-diy-for-boxster-brakes-on-your-mk4-1-8t-vr6.3537936/
https://creationsmotorsport.com/car...e-porsche-calipers-brembo-vag-vw-audi-12.html
https://usrallyteam.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=188_267_194&products_id=1913
https://usrallyteam.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=188_267_194&products_id=2092
https://www.vagbremtechnic.com/fron...he-boxster-calipers-to-oe-312mm-discs-ak0001/
Unfortunately they're out of stock, but it gives you an idea of what's needed for the Porsche Boxster calipers: https://usrallyteam.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=188_267_194&products_id=1895

Helpful thread on VWVortex.
https://www.vwvortex.com/threads/hunt-for-the-perfect-track-brakes.9498236/

Some rear brake upgrades. https://www.cascadegerman.com/product/brake-upgrade-kit-mk4-280mm-rear/
https://www.uk-mkivs.net/threads/1-8t-golf-mk4-gti-256mm-full-rear-brake-diy-upgrade.46118/
https://creationsmotorsport.com/car...discs-rotor-upgrade-brake-adapter-br0036.html

Then of course upgrading to better brake fluid will help with brake fade. https://www.havocspeed.com/dummies-guide-to-performance-brake-fluid/
https://emotive.engineering/blogs/the-logbook/the-ultimate-track-day-and-racing-brake-fluid-guide
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/group.asp?GroupID=BRAKEFLUID
https://www.amazon.com/Castrol-SRF-Racing-Brake-Fluid/dp/B002TM4GBQ
https://www.amazon.com/Wilwood-290-...1691587208&sprefix=racing+bra,aps,142&sr=8-10
https://www.amazon.com/Endless-RF-6...1691587208&sprefix=racing+bra,aps,142&sr=8-13
https://www.amazon.com/Motul-Synthe...mzn1.fos.18ed3cb5-28d5-4975-8bc7-93deae8f9840
https://shop.wilwood.com/collections/brake-fluid

That should cover brake upgrades pretty well.

 

[whizznbyu]

Besides tires, the next best investment you can make to get your car to do better in all 3 of those categories is by getting a lightweight set of wheels. I personally run 17" rims due to the brake kit that I have on my cars. You may be able to run a 16" wheel, but it'll limit you on what Big Brake Kit(BBK) you can run on your car. 17s are kind of a happy medium, that'll clear most BBK, fairly easy to find, fairly affordable, and tires aren't too bad price wise.

What BBK's in your experience work well with 17" Traklites?

 

[3L3M3NT]

I'm currently running a BBK from Racing Brake Performance on both of my cars. I got lucky and was able to find one kit used for almost a $1,000 less than new. I did find out that this kit will only bolt up to R32 or Audi MK1 TT spindles, granted that's not necessarily a bad thing, since those spindles provide better geometry when you lower your car a little, which in turn means that your car handles better.
https://racingbrake.com/2187-k/
The spindles you would need. https://usrallyteam.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=76_208_221&products_id=2192

Some other options are:
https://momentummotorparts.com/collections/mk4-vw-big-brake-kits
https://ceika-store.com/products/cbk1730
https://store.ngpracing.com/volkswa...tle-any-engine/brakes-1/big-brake-kits-1.html
https://apracing.com/performance-up...w/golf-mk4-gti-front-6-piston-kit-cp5570-1003

Good luck and hopefully you find a BBK that works for you.

 

[ts888]

I'll just say -- Grass Valley is an absolute HOOT! I used to run PIR a lot, but ORP is a real treat, I need to get back there. Last time out I was driving a friend's 1st gen Honda CRX, which has a bunch of old school go-fast parts. My first experience with FWD on a track, and the little bugger impressed me. CRX's are very light, which helps.

 

[Keystoner16]

Yes. ORP is rad. Looking to get out there more often in the coming season.
My goal is PIR twice, ORP twice, and add a go at The Ridge.

 

[Keystoner16]

Some progress on this.
As I may have mentioned before I had decided to scrap the MK1 TT front suspension swap and move forward by "improving" the MK4 suspension.
To that end, I purchased a set of MK4 GTI spindles and caliper brackets. I already had a set of ATE 54 calipers that I pulled off of a TT in the yard.
GTI and TT use the same caliper. It is the hanger that allows TT to run 312mm rotors as opposed to 288mm rotors for the GTI.

I cleaned up painted the spindles and have installed new wheel bearings.



I am waiting until the spindles are on the car to install hubs.

I also cleaned and painted the hangers, and calipers. Calipers were the rebuilt using ATE rebuild kits. I was also able to find new pistons. They are Carson- Made in China, but I think they will be fine.








I plan to weigh the loaded GTI calipers, spindles, and rotors and compare the total weight with the stock TDI components just to have an idea how much, if any, un sprung weight I am adding by doing this swap.