ProfBrown's 2015 GSW TDI Build

[hskrdu]

You don't need to toss the wiper blades every time the rubber wears out. Just replace the refill for a fraction of the price. It takes 10 minutes and you can use refills easily found on Amazon.

 

[bizzle]

I used silicon inserts for mine JSW but didn't bother with the Golfs.

 

[ProfBrown]

I ordered some inserts for the wiper blades a few days ago. Also took the car to the dealer as the bad tail light was due to improper gasket placement on the outer assembly leading to corrosion and turning it into a fishbowl. I turned it over and 2-4 ounces of water can rushing out at least. They agreed to order one without holding the car. I popped both rears off in the service drive and the service manager said yeah that’s not right and agreed to order it. I will be contacted when the new tail light is in. See below picture for lack of proper gasket placement. I also ordered some replacement paddle shifter arms as the factory ones are stupid small. $25 bucks on amazon, made of metal, and matte black.

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[Nuje]

What paddle shifters did you find? I was looking, too, but could only find ones that stuck on to the OEM paddles, which seems like it's going to be a flimsy hack.

I did find some bolt-on ones at an aftermarket parts site, but they were like $200 or so (for that price....I can live with the OEM paddles.)

 

[ProfBrown]

What paddle shifters did you find? I was looking, too, but could only find ones that stuck on to the OEM paddles, which seems like it's going to be a flimsy hack.

I did find some bolt-on ones at an aftermarket parts site, but they were like $200 or so (for that price....I can live with the OEM paddles.)

These are what I ordered. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TKTV5GB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_SALbEbM8RAGPQ


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[ProfBrown]

Correction, these will not fit on our wagons. I knew the gti/r steering wheels are different, however, I gambled that the mounting mechanism for the paddle shifters would be the same between different wheel designs. It was a losing bet. I dug a little further and it seems that ECS tuning sells some that will fit our wagons/tdis but they are to the tune of 70+ bucks plus tax. Too rich for my blood for their purpose (and design), I’ll be sending these back to amazon.


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[Nuje]

So, is it that the paddle shifters on the round-airbag-wheels are different than those on the wheels with the trapezoidal airbag like this one?

The reason I ask is that we didn't get paddle shifters on any TDIs here in Canada, so I bought a paddled-MFSW from Europe that matched my airbag.

 

[ProfBrown]

So, is it that the paddle shifters on the round-airbag-wheels are different than those on the wheels with the trapezoidal airbag like this one?

The reason I ask is that we didn't get paddle shifters on any TDIs here in Canada, so I bought a paddled-MFSW from Europe that matched my airbag.

I dont know based on airbag appearance, watch this video to see if the mounting mechanism is the same or different than the one on your whip!


https://youtu.be/UJqjwyb8kbk


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[ProfBrown]

Took the wagon to the dealer today to get an oil change. She has been treating me well lately. No complaints on that front. The dealer said I was about due for front brakes, car is at 90k miles. About expected for a hilly area of California, car used to live in a hilly area or cali by the beaches before it was mine as well so no real complaints. I already have a motive brake bleeder, just need to order a new adapter to fit the euro cars. From my quick reading takes Dot 4 fluid, and about 1liter for a full flush. Any recommended fluid brands? Dealer recommended rotors and pads for the front, I can feel an obvious lip on the rotor so I am inclined to believe them. See if my old man can wiggle any deals with his company for brakes. Dealer wanted shy of $600 for brakes lol crazy talk.

 

[bizzle]

I just get the set from IDParts and I generally buy all four corners (pads and rotors) at once regardless of the wear.

 

[Uno’15TDi]

Took the wagon to the dealer today to get an oil change. She has been treating me well lately. No complaints on that front. The dealer said I was about due for front brakes, car is at 90k miles. About expected for a hilly area of California, car used to live in a hilly area or cali by the beaches before it was mine as well so no real complaints. I already have a motive brake bleeder, just need to order a new adapter to fit the euro cars. From my quick reading takes Dot 4 fluid, and about 1liter for a full flush. Any recommended fluid brands? Dealer recommended rotors and pads for the front, I can feel an obvious lip on the rotor so I am inclined to believe them. See if my old man can wiggle any deals with his company for brakes. Dealer wanted shy of $600 for brakes lol crazy talk.

I’m also driving in SOCAL with a steep hill on my commute. I noticed if I really have to use the brakes it will come up with some slight warpage from the heat. Once it cools down it’s fine. I will definitely replace the front rotors and pads when it comes time.


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[JM Popaleetus]

Took the wagon to the dealer today to get an oil change. She has been treating me well lately. No complaints on that front. The dealer said I was about due for front brakes, car is at 90k miles. About expected for a hilly area of California, car used to live in a hilly area or cali by the beaches before it was mine as well so no real complaints. I already have a motive brake bleeder, just need to order a new adapter to fit the euro cars. From my quick reading takes Dot 4 fluid, and about 1liter for a full flush. Any recommended fluid brands? Dealer recommended rotors and pads for the front, I can feel an obvious lip on the rotor so I am inclined to believe them. See if my old man can wiggle any deals with his company for brakes. Dealer wanted shy of $600 for brakes lol crazy talk.

ATE SL.6 is what you want.

Reason being you want DOT 4 Class 6 fluid.

 

[thundershorts]

Akebono ceramic pads have nice feel and leave very little dust. If you are replacing rotors, its a great time to upgrade to larger 312mm front using gti calipers. Mounting larger rear rotors makes a huge difference in braking from the puny calipers and rotors the factory installed. My drilled and slotted rotors with the red gti calipers give it nice bling.

 

[ProfBrown]

Akebono ceramic pads have nice feel and leave very little dust. If you are replacing rotors, its a great time to upgrade to larger 312mm front using gti calipers. Mounting larger rear rotors makes a huge difference in braking from the puny calipers and rotors the factory installed. My drilled and slotted rotors with the red gti calipers give it nice bling.

I would do the gti caliper swap if this car was anything other than a mileage pig for me. Don’t want to put any more money into it than I have to. Especially with this virus shelter in place stuff going on in Cali. My line of work is considered essential, but I was cut down to 3 days a week so I am hoarding what I have for now lol. It’ll keep stock calipers. I will be keeping stock rotors, but I believe my dads company Federal Mogul, turned Tenneco can get me some at a discounted rate for rotors and pads. I’ll take free given the times. Next time around idparts is likely where I’d shop. Already have some castrol dot4 that I will use still sealed in bottles. Waiting for my pressure brake bleeder adaptor to be shipped through amazon.


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[JM Popaleetus]

Make sure it’s DOT 4 Class 6, otherwise it’s the wrong stuff.

 

[ProfBrown]

Why not just dot 4? This is the first time I am hearing of dot 4 class 6?


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[Nuje]

Not sure what the difference is, but the manual seems to be rather emphatic:

My understanding is that the VW spec stuff is lower viscosity at cooler temps than plain vanilla DOT4.

 

[ProfBrown]

Not sure what the difference is, but the manual is quite explicit:

Yeah I had looked on multiple forums and seen people say dot4 all the time, just never anything about dot 4 class 6. Ironically the manual calls for only vw brake fluid. Sounds like a money grab to me


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[Nuje]

I get the OEM stuff at the dealer cheaper than I can get DOT4 anywhere else near me, so it's easy for me to go with the "right" stuff.

 

[RIP TDI]

The DOT 4, Class 6 products can also be designated as DOT 4 LV or Super DOT 4. For example: ATE SL.6 (sub-titled DOT 4, Class 6), Pentosin DOT 4 LV, and Motul DOT 4 LV.

The main difference between these (and OEM) and regular DOT 4 fluids is the lower viscosity that allows faster hydraulic operation in electronic braking systems.

 

[JM Popaleetus]

The DOT 4, Class 6 products can also be designated as DOT 4 LV or Super DOT 4. For example: ATE SL.6 (sub-titled DOT 4, Class 6), Pentosin DOT 4 LV, and Motul DOT 4 LV.

The main difference between these (and OEM) and regular DOT 4 fluids is the lower viscosity that allows faster hydraulic operation in electronic braking systems.

This.

Yeah I had looked on multiple forums and seen people say dot4 all the time, just never anything about dot 4 class 6. Ironically the manual calls for only vw brake fluid. Sounds like a money grab to me

By all means, if you think it’s a money grab, use whatever you want. It’s your ABS and ESC systems, not mine. You simply asked what fluid to use, and I answered.

 

[RIP TDI]

The DOT 4, Class 6 products can also be designated as DOT 4 LV or Super DOT 4. For example: ATE SL.6 (sub-titled DOT 4, Class 6), Pentosin DOT 4 LV, and Motul DOT 4 LV.
The main difference between these (and OEM) and regular DOT 4 fluids is the lower viscosity that allows faster hydraulic operation in electronic braking systems.

I'll have to correct myself here: Pentosin Super DOT 4 is NOT low viscosity, but Pentosin DOT 4 LV is low viscosity and Perntosin specifies it as the equivalent to VW's B 000 750 fluid.

 

[ProfBrown]

This.
By all means, if you think it’s a money grab, use whatever you want. It’s your ABS and ESC systems, not mine. You simply asked what fluid to use, and I answered.

The money grab comment was at the wording for the specific VW branded fluid, rather than the spec the fluid must meet. I was in a mood that day lol, but point taken, and I will be buying DOT 4 LV fluid as advised by you very intelligent and helpful folk of this forum.
Here is what I am ordering. VW spec brake fluid as advised (x2), and ID parts brake set. Simple and not breaking the bank. Brake set was even on sale.
https://www.idparts.com/front-brake-set-mk7-golf8v-p-5138.html
https://www.idparts.com/vw-oem-dot4-brake-fluid-500ml-p-1873.html

 

[bizzle]

*3 bottles for a full flush

 

[ProfBrown]

*3 bottles for a full flush

Dang... everything I read said 1L would be good.


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[Nuje]

The "official" volume is 1.15L for 6MT, 1.00L for the DSG; the extra 150mL due to bleeding the clutch.

 

[ProfBrown]

Yesterday started tossing around the idea of getting an ecu tune for the wagon. Finished up college and got some grad money, but also to just get something for myself. Was on the phone with Chris the/one of the Southern California reps/sales guys for Kerma. He took the time out of his day to spend a good 30 minutes on the phone talking about the tune and other items about our mk7 wagons.

Still waiting on a response from Malone. Power numbers claimed are higher with Kerma, but also $100 more expensive.

Anyone following this thread have experience with either or both companies? I see ARP makes a tune for these cars as well, but the way they do the tunes does not seem enticing to me...


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[15TDICommuter]

I have no experience with either but have been looking at the tunes/delete stuff for my GSW.

I've seen better reviews of Malone over Kerma. Are you planning to delete as well if you decide to tune the car? I think Kerma allows for factory DPF and doesn't require the delete.

 

[ProfBrown]

I have no experience with either but have been looking at the tunes/delete stuff for my GSW.

I've seen better reviews of Malone over Kerma. Are you planning to delete as well if you decide to tune the car? I think Kerma allows for factory DPF and doesn't require the delete.

This is one reason to go Malone. From my reading Malone will do tunes for deletes, while Kerma will not. I am not planning on doing deleted at this time.

Malone is the more expensive of the 2, Malone is 550 plus the 195 for the tuner, where as Kerma is 650 all in.


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[Cuzoe]

Kerma does not require (or support, to my knowledge) any deletes, at least not for a California car. You could argue that passing emissions is the concern of the owner but that's neither here nor there.

I have been running Kerma for about 2 years, it has been great. Flashed and re-flashed a few times. I think I flashed Stage 1+ initially. I noticed some shudder so I then flashed Stage 1... but I was just giving it the beans at low RPM in 6th to pass on the highway. Few months pass and I read on the forum that someone had requested the latest version of the tune. I emailed and they sent it over a day or two later. I then flashed 1+ and just down shift before getting on it.

I'm in So Cal and have only needed emissions testing one time since I buying the car and it passed. I don't routinely check emissions readiness but the few times I have everything has been good, not that I expected different.

I love the tune and they have been very responsive when I've contacted them. They don't (or didn't last I checked) support various hardware changes through the logging, adjust tune, log, adjust tune, etc process. They do however offer a CR 190 and I believe they will update your tune should you pick that up later. I'm thinking about, intensely, haha.

I have no experience with any other vendor but would recommend Kerma without hesitation.