Ed's TDI - spins again!Ed's TDI said:Okay so I understand that a 17% correction factor doesn't necessarily equate to a 17% increase/decrease in horsepower made but I'm curious why the dyno guys at Kinetic would choose 17% as their correction factor if your claim is that it should only be 1-2%. Their explaination, according to the techs from Dyno-Dynamics that setup their dyno and schooled them on how to use it, is that this was the correction factor to use for this machine in their location based on all the information they normally use to fine-tune all of these particular dyno units.
When your dyno was set up in your shop, you had a rep from that company help you guys out with instruction on how to use it, etc, etc, right? So why do you not use any correction factors, even though you already agreed that correction factors are used to ensure that you would get consistent results?
bencarr23 said:I just want to know what fuel mods you have to put down 265 hp.
shhhh!!! its a secret...nobody should know...LNXGUY said:I am sure everyone would like to know.
plz do Jeff.jsrmonster said:Hopefully we can hook up when I visit BC.
IndigoBlueWagon said:I dyno'd IBW again today after upgrading from PP520s to PP502s. No other changes to the car. So you don't have to flip back and forth, here's the dyno from February 22:
The one that ends at lower revs is from the NE dyno day last fall.
And here's today's:
I failed to remind the operator to ignore the redline and keep going to fuel cutout, but I'm confident the curve would resemble the earlier one, which is the one from Feb. 22.
And here is boost and fuel/air tables.
The red line is from two weeks ago, the blue from today. The car did smoke more, no doubt, but it wasn't a blackout. And as you can see, boost is rock solid. My boostvalve is screwed all the way in--basically shut off. No spikes.
So to me it reads like a gain of about 12 ft/lbs. of torque and 19+ HP. I think I'm finally getting to the point where all the air handling mods are really paying off. The car did experience some significant heat soak on multiple runs: Bill (at DSG) suggested that it may be time for larger intercooler piping.
Oh, and the odometer rolled over 180K last night. Head's never been off. Try that in a Subaru.
Get a downpipe (where, I wonder?) and exhaust and the 6000 RPM tune for your turbo. The exhaust will improve your fuel economy. Yeah, that's it.Varkias said:Thanks. It's an amazing improvement over what I had the first time I was on a dyno. I'm really very happy with where the car is right now. While I would love to be able to put the time in money that you, Peter and others have into my car, there just really isn't a need. It's faster then I need it to be already.
Sounds like a plan! As soon as Sootman's credit card arrives in the mail, I'll give you a call. (that was an offer, right steve?)IndigoBlueWagon said:Get a downpipe (where, I wonder?) and exhaust and the 6000 RPM tune for your turbo. The exhaust will improve your fuel economy. Yeah, that's it.
I thought jeff said you needed pump mods to have a 6000rpm tune. Wont that ruin a stock pump. He said you needed better springs inside the pump. Are you running the 6000 rpm tune with a stock pump?IndigoBlueWagon said:Get a downpipe (where, I wonder?) and exhaust and the 6000 RPM tune for your turbo. The exhaust will improve your fuel economy. Yeah, that's it.
How does it compair to rc5. Or is it basically rc5 with higher rev limiter?IndigoBlueWagon said:You bet. On two cars. So far, so good. Jeff has a minor mod that will keep the case pressure relief valve from popping, but I haven't needed it yet.
I figure I'll learn this summer what will break on the Golf when I run it on the track, but I don't plan to frequently go much over 5000 RPM. It's just great to get real power all the way up there instead of the thing just dying out.
It'll be interesting to see you race test that tune this year. That's the true test of the stock pump vs reman pump question. Good on you for testing and demonstrating it, Peter. No better way to find the limits of hardware than someone putting their money where their mouth is.IndigoBlueWagon said:Midrange is the same. The air tables are now all correct for the larger MAF housing, so low speed response is better. Jeff built mine with a 25 PSI max, although he says the turbo can go to 28 PSI in the midrange.
The big difference is as you pass 4000 RPM it just keeps pulling--hard. Past 5000, more of the same. Peg the tach, keeps pulling. Too bad we cut the dyno run short, but I bet my car is still making over 150 HP at 5800. Cutout is at 6000 RPM or so. So imagine pulling hard to 90 in 3rd, over 120 in 4th. You get the idea. And no smoke.