Ol'Rattler
Top Post Dawg
I should qualify my statements with the fact that I have never actually changed the seal/tone ring. A5INKY, so far is the only person I have heard of that has.
I just revisited the procedure in the Bentleys CD and I don't think cam position or T/B stretch are relevant. If you get the tone ring wrong, no amount of cam to crank adjustment will fix it.
The engine MUST be at TDC on #1 cylinder. This is done with the crankshaft lock tool that you use when doing T/Bs. Once there, the rear main seal tool indexes the tone ring to the crank and is used to sets how far the tone ring is pressed on to the crank.
It does seem reasonable that if you got the new one on in the same exact place and depth, it should work. We just need someone to develop a bullet proof work around.
When I did my clutch, I was going to change the rear main seal, but after reading the procedure, I figured there was way to much potential for fail. I'm sure that if it is off, even a couple of degrees, the car would probably run like crap making it necessary to pull the transaxle once again to fix it.
I just revisited the procedure in the Bentleys CD and I don't think cam position or T/B stretch are relevant. If you get the tone ring wrong, no amount of cam to crank adjustment will fix it.
The engine MUST be at TDC on #1 cylinder. This is done with the crankshaft lock tool that you use when doing T/Bs. Once there, the rear main seal tool indexes the tone ring to the crank and is used to sets how far the tone ring is pressed on to the crank.
It does seem reasonable that if you got the new one on in the same exact place and depth, it should work. We just need someone to develop a bullet proof work around.
When I did my clutch, I was going to change the rear main seal, but after reading the procedure, I figured there was way to much potential for fail. I'm sure that if it is off, even a couple of degrees, the car would probably run like crap making it necessary to pull the transaxle once again to fix it.