PD150 6 speed into '94 Golf Sport

[5150]

How's the progress?

Any new developments?

Looks great.

 

[vwmikel]

Any new developments?

Looks great.

Thanks. I should have more to post in about a week or so as I ordered the rest of the tubing and parts for the exhaust and the bends to make the charge pipes. I still need to get the silicone connectors though so the exhaust will probably get done first.

 

[storx]

any new update? im wanting to see it done already haha

 

[vwmikel]

I've had other projects I've had to work on but with a little luck I should be back to working on the Golf this next week. I bought all of the u-bends and a flex coupling for the exhaust as well as a muffler and a few other things I should need. I'll order the silicone connectors at the beginning of the week. I've delayed on doing that a bit as I'm still not entirely sure how to route the piping as there is a couple of ways I could return back from the intercooler to the intake.

 

[clove911]

Interesting thread. I had to post so I could follow.

 

[vwmikel]

I guess I'd might as well post a little bit of an update then.

The silicone connectors should be here on tuesday or so. We should otherwise have a go to fab the exhaust and charge pipes with a special guest appearance by Aaron of EuronationVW.com.

I have a few other stops such as the dealer and the wrecking yard I hope to make it to tomorrow and I should be mostly set on the remainder of the things I need to get the engine running. Aside from that I still need to finish the brakes and suspension if my B&G Coilovers ever show up as well as hit up the lathe to cut down the internal sleeves which will be welded into the axles when they're welded back together (shortened).

 

[vwmikel]

So, Aaron failed to mention he was going to Utah for most of last week and this last weekend. I was impatient so I started on the charge pipes myself.

It's a tight fit connecting to the intercooler.

I removed the horn and I'll have to relocate that as I needed the room for the charge pipe. It needs to go down and under the A/C filter drier unit and then up where the charcoal canister originally went.

Here is where it pokes out up top and a good place to put a connector so I can still get the pipes in and out of the car.

The upper pipe needed to go high enough to clear the air filter as I plan to put the filter right under that charge pipe. I think the bends worked out well there.

There's the whole charge pipe routing with the bumper cap off.


Next post.........

 

[vwmikel]

On to the other pipes:

I think it turned out pretty well.

The original plan was to run a full 3" inlet tube on the turbo but after weighing the options it doesn't seem like it's going to happen.

Those A/C lines are just so close to the inlet tube that the 2.5" is about as far as I'd dare to go. I hate to clamp a tube on the radius like that but there just wasn't any room to weld on a straight section. I might give it a shot with the 3" still and see if I can somehow make it fit. Engine movement is really my concern here. I will be installing a stiffer front mount but I'd still like to try and keep as much vibration as I can out of the car.

Here is how the filter fits with the charge pipe over the top of it. I'm debating how I want to fasten that MAF/filter in place. We'll see how that goes.

 

[jsrmonster]

awesome work, good use of OTS pipes! Looks very clean, how do you plan on rolling bulges on the ends of the pipes? Thanks for posting - its nice to see cool stuff in the forums for a change.
Jeff

 

[oldpoopie]

really neat. Makes me want to get started with my cabriolet.

 

[vwmikel]

Thanks guys. My friend has a bead roller I can use. Alternatively, a bead welded onto the end of the pipe will hold things together really well. The last thing I want is charge pipes that blow off (I've dealt with that one before on an Arkay system).

 

[vwmikel]

I got my metric bubble flare tool today and got to work on the clutch line.

Here is what I was dealing with. The MK3 clutch slave line has a 12mm tube nut whereas the line that clips into the 6 speed clutch slave has a 10mm tube nut (the same as a brake line). I've looked everywhere for some kind of adapter or AN adapters to run a generic AN line but my search came up empty. Nobody seems to make anything to fit that 12mm tube nut.

I need to cut that flare off the end in order to replace the tube nut.

Here it is without the flare.

Here is the larger tube nut (right) and the replacement smaller tube nut that I'll be using (left).

The flaring tool leaves some marks on the line but it makes a nice new flare on the line after sliding the smaller tube nut on.

That smaller tube nut enables me to use this female to female connector I got off of a Mercedes to join the MK3 clutch slave line and the MK4 6 speed clutch slave inlet line.

 

[arvina]

man i wish i had the knowhow and ability to do something like this. i found an 81 golf rabbit in kindof trash condision but runs (somethings wrong with the shifter linkage) and everything for 750.

 

[bigsexyTDI]

And of course in 6th gear.

(yes, I know that console is disgusting.... I have another sitting around which I may use as I'm sure it's cleaner than that one)

Man you aren't kidding...lol. My God whoever had that car was one sick individual...

 

[vwmikel]

When I got the car he had removed the drivers window and left it out in the rain for some reason. I think the console is a combination of the guys filth and the elements. The car happened to be the exact one I was looking for though....you take what you can get.

 

[vwmikel]

I finished up the prep work this morning which included making a new inlet tube as I had the extra 3" material so it was worth a shot.

It's definitely closer to those A/C lines but something tells me it might be managable so I'll give it a shot. I always have the 2.5" tube if the 3" one presents a problem.

In the afternoon I took all of the pipes over to Aarons to get them TIG welded and bead rolled.

I got the map sensor flange from 42 draft designs. It's CNC milled and works with both the small and large map sensors. I'd highly recommend it if you're making your own charge pipes.

The bead roller really does a nice job on the pipes.

We also did the finish welds on the turbo itself. That weld el took a few passes to make a good weld but it went surprisingly well. The outlet on the compressor gave us a lot more trouble actually.

So, the next thing on the list will be to clean and paint all of the charge pipes then drill and tap the exhaust manifold for the EGT thermocouple. After that I should be ready to bolt the stuff back on the car permanently and get to work on the muffler and hangers. After that I need to pull the dash and start on the wiring.

Special thanks to Aaron for getting this stuff welded up.

 

[G60ING]

yeah the 42 designs map sensor rocks. use some gasket maker sealant on the threads of the bolts on your final assembly or you will have a small leak. Looks good.

 

[oldpoopie]

yeah the 42 designs map sensor rocks. use some gasket maker sealant on the threads of the bolts on your final assembly or you will have a small leak. Looks good.

They should have made those bolt holes blind, not thru holes.

 

[vwmikel]

I think it was probably cheaper and easier to do it that way. Some anti-seize would probably do the trick.

 

[G60ING]

I think it was probably cheaper and easier to do it that way. Some anti-seize would probably do the trick.

yeah its not too bad. I pressure checked my IC pipes to make certain they would hold at least 35psi

 

[vwmikel]

So, I caught up with Aaron on friday while he was in the vicinity of the lathe.

To shorten the axles we needed to cut down some thick wall tube to use as internal sleeves since both of the axles are hollow.

Here is how they will go into the axles. We can push them together until the raised center part where they will be welded across the ends of each axle half. I will also drill some holes in each side to weld through to the insert.

It turns out that the outside diameter of the VR6 hubs are just a little bit larger than on the 4 cylinder hubs. It was enough that they wouldn't fit inside the G60 rotors.

After we machined a little off of the outside diameter they fit right inside the G60 rotors. Now I just need to drill 4 holes in each of the rotor hats to accomodate the 5 lug wheels.

In other news, the intake wasn't clogged per se with only 17k on the clock but it did have some build up. After lots of scraping, compressed air, and carburetor cleaner I think it is to my satisfaction. I drilled and tapped the exhaust manifold for the EGT thermocouple as well so it is ready to go on. This means the turbo can now take up permanent residence on the back of the engine and I can finish fitting up the muffler and welding on the hangers. After that I think it will be time to get started on wiring.

 

[oldpoopie]

Oh man I cant wait to see this thing done!

 

[clove911]

agreed, i'm more excited over this than my own car....wait nevermind

 

[storx]

keep up the good work man.. its a killer setup.. wish i could do something like this.. what you go into this?

 

[vwmikel]

keep up the good work man.. its a killer setup.. wish i could do something like this.. what you go into this?

Total cost so far? I'm something like $9-10k into it right now. It's far from an economical swap, that's for sure. I'm sure I could have kept the costs lower but there are just some things I wanted out of this car. It's not like me to drive a car at (or anywhere near) stock height or without replacing every bushing and bearing....nor did I want stock wheels or a crappy stereo.

 

[storx]

Total cost so far? I'm something like $9-10k into it right now. It's far from an economical swap, that's for sure. I'm sure I could have kept the costs lower but there are just some things I wanted out of this car. It's not like me to drive a car at (or anywhere near) stock height or without replacing every bushing and bearing....nor did I want stock wheels or a crappy stereo.

Wow, that really isnt a whole lot.. haha....im right now debating on a project that i want to do next, Im wanting an pickup truck so im debating an 4x4 Toyota Tacoma EXT with an TDI engine... possably an PD150 motor but budget will control that. I already have the truck, It has an blown engine but good manual tranny and transfer case.

 

[vwmikel]

There's no pretty pictures for this update, but here is the general state of things:

Well, I worked on the car most of the day today. I was only messing with electrical stuff too. I had to remove all of the old friction tape from the '98 Jetta TDI harness I had so I could remove the unnecessary portions. As it turns out they actually grouped the wiring looms differently in the later MK3's so my lighting harness was still in the car but it was part of this TDI harness. After removing what was obvious I started connecting up the new ECU plug.

The way I did this was to create ECU pinout spreadsheets in excel and then write a third spreadsheet which tells which pin goes to which pin. So, I was able to cut the wires off the back of the MSA15.5 plug and then connect them to the corresponding position on the new EDC15 connector. There were some wires left over which I'll have to figure out what those are and do something with them....possibly remove them. The new harness is through the firewall and hopeuflly tomorrow I can pull the dash and start hooking things up to the fuse box. After that I think I will run a few continuity test to verify things I'm not 100% sure about (such as the K-line connection because the Bentley was somewhat cryptic).

From there I can clean things up a little and drop the battery in there so I can see if I get an ECU connection. afterward I can make sure everything is working properly using vag-com (you can check all of your switches and whatnot that way). Cruise control was a little bit weird because the MK4 ECU used a 6 pin cruise control switch and the MK3 one is a 4 pin. I found some wiring info from MrDave on vortex detailing how he used a Scirocco cruise stalk in his TDI Rabbit truck. The Scirocco switch is also 4 pin and in studying what he did I think I've figured out how to apply this to the MK3 stalk.

So, hopefully I can finish up the electrical portion soon. After that I need to hook up the fuel system and I should be pretty close to getting the car started.

 

[TheoSweden]

I like this project! I cant wait to see the results, because I'm looking for exactly this kind of turbo myself.

Theo

 

[storx]

is there anyway we can get some video footage of it on its birthday... when it is started for the first time.

 

[clove911]

good luck with the wiring, i know its a real pain and very time consuming. Once you have that out of the way though, you should be ready to go. Then you can finish hardware installation and start that bad boy up.