PD100 has variable intake manifold...

[whitedog]

So all of this has me wondering abou twhat I found on my Jetta:

I have a zip tie holding it now and **IT SEEMS** that it has more power.

I need to do some testing with it plugged in and unplugged.

PS, Only the dealer has been that far down on my engine when they did the EGR cooler recall.

 

[Pelican18TQA4]

That's the vacuum actuator that controls the variable intake.

 

[whitedog]

That's the vacuum actuator that controls the variable intake.

Right and since the tabs mounting it are broken, that flap hasn't been working for I don't know how long.

 

[PDJetta]

I would lock it in the open position, at least that way, you'll get more air in.

--Nate

 

[whitedog]

Zip ties Rock.

 

[mannytranny]

Any chance this variable intake could cause an annoying resonance if the lower EGR flex pipe is blocked off?

 

[burpod]

has anyone tried to remove the rod holding the flappers from the intake? i'm cleaning my manifold right now, and since all my egr is gone, i'd like to try and remove it, and plug the open end with a bolt or something... yeah yeah i know it's pretty pointless.. any ideas short of cutting it out? i'm not seeing how it disassembles...

it would be easier to clean if that stupid rod & flaps weren't in the way!

 

[whitedog]

burpod are you taking pictures?

 

[burpod]

i have a bunch of pictures from my vnt17/22 install i did a few months ago: http://picasaweb.google.com/burpod/TurboInstall

on that i installed a pd150 intake manifold, but since the golf (auto tranny) is going to keep the stock turbo, it will also keep the stock intake manifold (and ASV!!!), but i would like to remove the flaps if possible - ideally without mauling the thing. lol

working on the golf right now, have a couple pics up so far:
http://picasaweb.google.com/burpod/GolfEGR

 

[milehighassassin]

SO I guess you can take the intake manifold off from JUST the top of the car, huh?
(no need to go underneath).

 

[burpod]

you take the manifold off the car from the top. there are 6 large allen bolts going into the head horizontally. it's far more difficult to take off the top portion by itself, because it's connected by 8 or so bolts from the top and bottom...

 

[milehighassassin]

Hmmm I will have to look into this when I do the other stuff I have lined up. I was having issues accessing all the Allen bolts

 

[JB05]

Has anyone followed through with the test so mentioned in post 20?
If so, what were the results with the flaps open at all times?
I find this thread to be very enlightening. Thanks to all for the pics and info.

 

[burpod]

i gave up trying to do a poor man's porting of this. i just don't have the right tools and a local shop wanted $140 to machine it all out, so obviously i wasn't going to do that. i did however tie the flaps open with a wire just to be sure they stay that way, as i disconnected and removed all the vacuum lines, solenoids etc

 

[JB05]

Thanx for the response, Burpod, I might see if I can reroute the vacuum lines somehow for full time opening of the flaps. I never realized how much build up can accumulate in that lower area of the IM. My EGR looked alot like yours, and I just did a quick clean up by scraping all the excess gunk. I thought ULSD would eliminate most, if not all of that crap.

 

[burpod]

Thanx for the response, Burpod, I might see if I can reroute the vacuum lines somehow for full time opening of the flaps. I never realized how much build up can accumulate in that lower area of the IM. My EGR looked alot like yours, and I just did a quick clean up by scraping all the excess gunk. I thought ULSD would eliminate most, if not all of that crap.

as far as i'm concerned. it doesn't

 

[milehighassassin]

Does anyone know the part number to the plastic actuator on the intake side of the manifold? Mine is cracked and causing a loud squeal under boost.

When I say intake side I mean the air filter intake, not the engine intake. Sorry for the confusion.

I think this is it:

 

[whitedog]

Does anyone know the part number to the plastic actuator on the intake side of the manifold? Mine is cracked and causing a loud squeal under boost.

When I say intake side I mean the air filter intake, not the engine intake. Sorry for the confusion.

I think this is it:

The second picture shows the EGR cooler valve actuator, you want the one in the first picture.

Good news though. If you can find someone that has removed the EGR valve on an ALH engine, or has a broken Anti-shudder valve from an ALH, you can use that actuator. The only thing is that the diphragm in the ASV one is black and the one that you want is reddish like it's a high temp diaphragm. They can be carefully disassembled and parts swapped over.

 

[milehighassassin]

No I want the one in the second picture. The one in the first is fine on my car. The one in the second picture has a crack in it.


I said it controlled the flap, but I really don't know what it does. I know it is located over by the air filter intake side. It is not by the EGR side.

 

[whitedog]

No I want the one in the second picture. The one in the first is fine on my car. The one in the second picture has a crack in it.


I said it controlled the flap, but I really don't know what it does. I know it is located over by the air filter intake side. It is not by the EGR side.

Should still be the same actuator. Did you see the crack? I just wonder that vacuum leaking there would make the noise that your car does.

 

[milehighassassin]

Yeah, I saw the crack. The mechanic scoped it with an automotive stethoscope. I was right there with him. When you pull on it, you can see the crack open up.

Any chance I can just remove it altogether? My EGR is blocked off. I will eventually remove the cooler as well.

 

[whitedog]

Yep. Just block off the vacuum hose and be done with it.

 

[milehighassassin]

Rock on!

 

[whitedog]

Lettuce know what happens.

 

[burpod]

or remove everything, clean up the useless vacuum lines and all those brackets around the n75, and if you don't want a cel, just electrically plugin the 2 egr solenoids and zip-tie them somewhere. i just live with a cel.

 

[PDJetta]

Yeah, I saw the crack. The mechanic scoped it with an automotive stethoscope. I was right there with him. When you pull on it, you can see the crack open up.

Any chance I can just remove it altogether? My EGR is blocked off. I will eventually remove the cooler as well.

Yes. Its function, btw, is to allow the EGR exhaust to bypass the cooler when the engine is cold and to flow through it when the engine is hot. The diaphrahm moves a rod which actuates a butterfly valve in the EGR passage that the cooler is mounted to, directing the exhaust either through the cooler or not through the cooler.

--Nate

 

[milehighassassin]

BTW... after blocking up that line the noise was still there.
sollution:

Alright I finally took my car to a mechanic (my sig). They checked the turbo shaft for play, nothing major there. Turns out it is the VNT actuator. It is tough to move and when the vacuum line is removed from the turbo the noise does not happen anymore. So it sounds like I will be removing the turbo and doing a full cleaning on the VNT.


Maybe this will help someone else.

 

[Pelican18TQA4]

I started this thread just about 3.5 years ago and I can't believe it's still going. Great discussion everyone and I hope it's helped someone along the way!

 

[milehighassassin]

Alright, for the record I am removing both vacuum actuators. I have my EGR blocked off so I see no reason to keep either of them. As mentioned above one is to bypass the cooler. The other one is for the EGR to pull the gasses in and let them mix better, speed up the air. Without a working EGR I see no reason to have either. I am just going to plug the vac lines and lock the variable intake manifold into the open position.


Edit.. I am not sure which way that is, but do I even need to try to lock it in either position? It move freely very easily. I am thinking I will just leave it and when the motor pulls air in, it will push it open and leave it there.

 

[DanG144]

You need to be sure to affix it in the open position. Since the air flow is sideways to it, the air flow does not tend to open it, but pins it in place.

Sorry I cannot remember which is which. You should be able to se some difference in MAF, with your VCDS, to verify which is which (but only at high rpm high boost conditions)

This is checked during the output tests with VCDS, but it is at idle, so the flow is the same in both positions, so unless you are watching it cycle under the hood the test is rather useless.

PM dieselfueler and ask him. I think he did the same thing.