PD Swap Info

[PradoTDI]

I'm seriously considering installing a BHW in place of the ailing ALH in my LandCruiser. There are quite a few BHW swap threads around here, but I figured it might be handy to collect info pertinent to PD TDI swaps into one thread. Some categories of info I think would be useful:

- ECU pinout, harness wiring diagram

- Fuel system info (lift pump specs and options, etc)

- Accessory specifications (power steering fittings, AC compressor fittings and control, etc)

Those of you who have done PD swaps, any info you can add to these categories (or any categories to add)?

 

[PickleRick]

For compressor fittings I took the adapters from the BHW off then had a shop weld standard AC fittings on them at an angle that was easily accessible in my engine bay. Any hard yota hose I needed adapted I also had a shop cut and weld a standard fitting in place of the original. Then I purchase a hydraulic fitting press and stock fittings/hose from I believe speedway motors to make my own hoses to adapt to the Toyota system. Once all yota and compressor fittings are converted to standard thread/size eBay/Amazon/jegs or any performance hot rod shop can get fittings in 100 different sizes and angles to make it custom, this includes fittings with the charge ports. Thank you guys who stick LS engines into everything!

I can't remember the banjo bolt size or thread for the VW power steering pump. I was able to find the Japanese pipe thread fitting for the steering box and banjo fitting for the steering pump, again I believe from speedway motors with reusable hose connectors. I think my bulk power steering hose came from jegs or summit. Cut to fit.

Lift pump is a 15 psi AC Delco pump frame mount that came on early 90s GMC or Chevy pickup trucks with the diesel option. It is rated max 15 psi. I think Jim will post an in tank option that works great in his setup. If I was running an in tank pump on a PD id run a fuel cooler.

Unfortunately I no longer have a diagram, if I did I'd gladly share it with you.

 

[TurboABA]

wiring diagram

https://pics.tdiclub.com/data/516/BHW_Wiring.pdf

 

[PradoTDI]

Fantastic info, thanks!

 

[burpod]

i'm still not a big fan of lower compression engine especialy in this case.. but that's just me. i think an alh would be better and easy to rebuild.

 

[PradoTDI]

i'm still not a big fan of lower compression engine especialy in this case.. but that's just me. i think an alh would be better and easy to rebuild.

I would prefer to keep the simpler, VE engine with plentiful parts support, but there are several factors that are pushing me toward the PD engine. In order to fit my new turbo without hacking it apart I'll need to change the mounting angle of the engine, and the placement of the power steering pump on the ALH doesn't work with that. If I did cut the turbo off its manifold I'd need to make a custom oil return and feed line, which has been a constant problem on my current setup. For the cost of rebuilding the head and fitting the turbo to my ALH I can get a good BHW, which already has stronger internals and more power potential. Still in the planning phase on all of this though.

 

[buzzboy]

For my BHW this is the banjo fitting I used to adapt to my Mercedes steering box

Male 0.375 (3/8") JIC x Male 16MM Metric

 

[PradoTDI]

For my BHW this is the banjo fitting I used to adapt to my Mercedes steering box

Male 0.375 (3/8") JIC x Male 16MM Metric

Good to know, looks like the same fitting I used on my ALH.

 

[Zurn]

I'm just starting a BEW into a 1994 Mazda Navajo (Ford Explorer 2 door). I know it's not a BHW, but still a PD. Hoping I can jump on your thread if that's ok? I was going to go with an ALH but got a super deal on a BEW and with just a tune I can be close to my factory HP and above my factory TQ numbers so I jumped on it.

The "smart" actuator on the PD turbo (If sticking with stock) looks like it can be "tuned out" via most tuners. Do you remove it, or just leave it and don't plug it in?

What power steering fluid did you go with? The VW fluid or your swap vehicle fluid? Can the VW pump run other fluids? I know my factory pump/steering box can handle ATF or Power Steering Fluid (the old clear stuff), not sure about the new VW green stuff...

Motor Mounts? I see Doomsday Diesel has just a block kit and TD Conversions have both the block side and frame side, any other options?

I'm sure I'll have more questions, so let me know if you want me to just start my own thread.

 

[PradoTDI]

I'm just starting a BEW into a 1994 Mazda Navajo (Ford Explorer 2 door). I know it's not a BHW, but still a PD. Hoping I can jump on your thread if that's ok? I was going to go with an ALH but got a super deal on a BEW and with just a tune I can be close to my factory HP and above my factory TQ numbers so I jumped on it.

The "smart" actuator on the PD turbo (If sticking with stock) looks like it can be "tuned out" via most tuners. Do you remove it, or just leave it and don't plug it in?

What power steering fluid did you go with? The VW fluid or your swap vehicle fluid? Can the VW pump run other fluids? I know my factory pump/steering box can handle ATF or Power Steering Fluid (the old clear stuff), not sure about the new VW green stuff...

Motor Mounts? I see Doomsday Diesel has just a block kit and TD Conversions have both the block side and frame side, any other options?

I'm sure I'll have more questions, so let me know if you want me to just start my own thread.

Not entirely sure about the smart actuator on the BEW, the BHW just has a vacuum actuator like an ALH. If you're talking about the electronic actuators I'm thinking of it will probably need to be swapped for a vacuum actuator and N75 if tuned out.

On my current ALH swap I'm running ATF in the power steering system, which is what the parent vehicle used. I figured a VW power steering pump would be cheaper and easier to find than a steering box for a 30+ year old JDM Toyota. The VW pump has worked flawlessly running ATF for the past 45k miles.

I fabricated my own motor mounts for my ALH, but have a set of the Doomsday block side plates for whatever comes next. For the frame side I would just fabricate my own, since it will be different for every application.

 

[PickleRick]

Are you upgrading the clutch to handle the BHW low end torque?

I think Jim is running a ctx-107 and dtx-137 combo on his yota. His 22re flywheel had to be modded to fit this 3.4kit but this would be a direct fit for the 3.0 and 3.4 v6 flywheels, you just have to use the proper 3.0 or 3.4 tob based on your input shaft length/bell housing depth. IIRC the 2.4 and 3.0 are the same tob but don't hold me to it.

 

[PradoTDI]

I'll probably stick with my current clutch, it is a 3.4 spec Centerforce II rated for 389ft-lbs with only 10-15k miles on it.

 

[PickleRick]

I like the grip of my center force but it has a tendency to drag. Despite nearly maxing out my clutch travel adjustments she was eating synchros for the better part of two years. My solution was to cut down a disco 2 push rod (the only thing a worth using from a disco 2 V8 lunp) to make a slightly longer slave cylinder actuator rod.

It has seemed to rectify that but occasionally I'll come up to a traffic light and need to sit in neutral for a second or two before I can shift to 1st. As it's gotten colder I will occasionally need to double clutch into 2nd up or down shifting, it's random and not every time. It might be due to premature synchro wear before I installed the longer push rod. I've had this transmission in for over a year now and that's the longest I've had a rebuilt transmission last. I swapped the synchros myself after having failures from two professionally rebuilt.

Across many platforms guys have complained about the dual friction clutch grab while others report no issues at all.

 

[oldpoopie]

I'm seriously considering installing a BHW in place of the ailing ALH in my LandCruiser. There are quite a few BHW swap threads around here, but I figured it might be handy to collect info pertinent to PD TDI swaps into one thread. Some categories of info I think would be useful:

- ECU pinout, harness wiring diagram

- Fuel system info (lift pump specs and options, etc)

- Accessory specifications (power steering fittings, AC compressor fittings and control, etc)

Those of you who have done PD swaps, any info you can add to these categories (or any categories to add)?

easiest would be to run the PD motor from a european EDC15 PD harness and cluster. Plugs right into what you already have. Would just need to tune to to the motor.

 

[PradoTDI]

easiest would be to run the PD motor from a european EDC15 PD harness and cluster. Plugs right into what you already have. Would just need to tune to to the motor.

I didn't know that was even possible. Since I'll likely end up with a complete donor car, it would probably make the most sense to stick with the EDC16 setup, but if I happen across just an engine then that would be the way to go.

 

[PradoTDI]

Another thing that would probably be worth talking about is if there are any PD-specific things that should be done to a donor engine before it is swapped into a vehicle. Obvious things that spring to mind:
- Check condition of cam and lifters
- BSM delete (for BHW's)
- Timing belt/water pump (for all TDI's)

Any other maintenance or upgrades that are highly recommended?

 

[JordanTr]

Upgrade oil cooler? Especially if it’s going in a hefty unit.

 

[PickleRick]

If you can swing it, new tandem pump, those jokers like to leak at the most inconvenient times.

New coolant tee with new sensor...same reason as above. Really easy to swap these out with the engine on a table.

I had leaking from around my injectors harness plug, id probably remove, slightly, clean and install with a little rtv around the o ring for food measure.

 

[PradoTDI]

Upgrade oil cooler? Especially if it’s going in a hefty unit.

Oil cooler is a good point, I believe the BEW oil cooler is similar in size to an ALH oil cooler, and would probably benefit from an upgrade to a BHW unit. The coolant hose nipples on the BHW oil cooler may provide better hose routing in a swap, too.

 

[PradoTDI]

If you can swing it, new tandem pump, those jokers like to leak at the most inconvenient times.

New coolant tee with new sensor...same reason as above. Really easy to swap these out with the engine on a table.

I had leaking from around my injectors harness plug, id probably remove, slightly, clean and install with a little rtv around the o ring for food measure.

I've read the injector harness can cause issues, too, so that would probably be a good thing to check with the engine out. Any remotely suspicious back-of-cylinder head stuff would be far better taken care of pre installation, especially in a longitudinal mounting application.

 

[Zurn]

So would an oil filter relocation kit with an aftermarket oil cooler be worth it?
Are the Tandem Pumps better to replace, or can you get a seal kit and just reseal it?

 

[PradoTDI]

So would an oil filter relocation kit with an aftermarket oil cooler be worth it?
Are the Tandem Pumps better to replace, or can you get a seal kit and just reseal it?

Oil filter relocation would probably depend on the layout of your particular engine bay, but in general I am very fond of the VW cartridge style filter housings. Good filters are cheap, easy to replace, and accessible from the top of the engine. I haven't installed an oil temp sensor on my ALH yet, but my understanding is that oil temps only become an issue if you're pushing the engine really hard. My application is a 4500lb vehicle that regularly gets loaded to 5000+, so additional cooling can't hurt.

I've heard of people rebuilding their tandem pumps, but don't have any direct experience with that aspect of PD ownership so I can't comment on what the job is like.

 

[PickleRick]

Is the ALH oil cooler bigger than the BHW? These guys are petty large on the bigger PD motor designed to push around a 2 ton wagon that's part sports car and part luxury.

You could pull apart and rebuild the tandem pump aka reseal but if the engine has 150-180k...it will probably be ok for another 100k...but do you want to chance it??? If the tandem pump was in the front with easy access I'd say yes. Ymmv.

i wouldn't recommend it but I've been running the sub 200 China dollar eBay one on my DD for 3 years.

 

[PradoTDI]

I guess I worded that a bit ambiguously, the ALH and BEW appear to be the same size, while the BHW is significantly larger and has vertical inlet/outlet vs the side inlet/outlet of the ALH/BEW.

 

[JordanTr]

There are some pics at the beginning of this lengthy cooler thread.

Oil Coolers... You have options guys. LOOK!

I know the concept of auxillary oil cooling is a hotly debated issue and I don't want this post to center around the validity or requirement for oil cooling. Here's some new parts that fit, make of it what you will. - My opinion: First, let's not call it an oil cooler, it's an oil/engine...

forums.tdiclub.com

 

[d24tdi]

I've read the injector harness can cause issues, too, so that would probably be a good thing to check with the engine out. Any remotely suspicious back-of-cylinder head stuff would be far better taken care of pre installation, especially in a longitudinal mounting application.

Having to replace the injector harness on a PD in a longitudinal installation is one of those jobs I (and we all) just hope to never have to do. I know someone who had one done by a local shop with a not particularly exceptional reputation in Livingston on a BHW car, and somehow it didn't cost much, and certainly they did not remove the head or the engine to withdraw the harness and its plastic skeleton. I guess I can only assume they just busted up the plastic structure into pieces and managed to get the wire harness out that way, and then who knows what they did when putting it back in to support the wires. That motor is still on the road now in a swap vehicle, running fine. So whatever they did worked out, at least for now.

Failure of the PD head harness seems uncommon enough that it's hard to see logic in proactively replacing it .... but it'd sure be painful if it needed to be changed not long after an engine went into a swap... Hard call. I don't know how expensive it is either. Bummer they designed it the way they did, you'd think they could have had plenty of other options for how to do it, knowing that the PD was intended for use in lots of longitudinal Audis and Passats.

On the smart actuator (which is just a position sensor piggybacked on what's otherwise a normal vacuum actuator for the BEW, and maybe BRM? can't recall -- but it still runs off vacuum and an N75 for control movement), I don't see why you couldn't just leave it in place and plugged in if your tune is written to ignore it. Or unplug if you're swapping to a different turbo with a dumb actuator, and it'd be the same effect. I can't think of a reason you'd need to remove the actuator position sensor just for the sake of eliminating it, it won't affect anything functionally.

 

[PickleRick]

My injection harness plastic clips had become old and brittle. In the yota I was able to remove my transmission cross member and lower it a few inches allowing me to easily remove and reinstall the harness assembly.

This job would be miserable in the b5.5 chassis

 

[jimbote]

There are some pics at the beginning of this lengthy cooler thread.

Oil Coolers... You have options guys. LOOK!

I know the concept of auxillary oil cooling is a hotly debated issue and I don't want this post to center around the validity or requirement for oil cooling. Here's some new parts that fit, make of it what you will. - My opinion: First, let's not call it an oil cooler, it's an oil/engine...

forums.tdiclub.com

You can also use cjaa oil cooler. It's slightly different shape than the bhw but still an upgrade over the alh/bew