PD Camshaft/Torsion Issue After Timing Belt Replacement

[Ovrhill]

I have replaced the timing belt on my BEW wagon and the camshaft or torsion position seems to have changed with the new belt in place.

With the old belt on the torsion was just about zero. Now, with the new belt on, it is fully retarded to the point that the cam holding pin is difficult to remove. When the cam pin and the crank lock are removed the engine will spin without resistance. However, if I try set the torsion more to zero, I seem to meet some resistance when hand spinning at the crank. So, I guess I'm probably off a few teeth somehow.

I've done a few of these without issue. Just not sure where I might have gone wrong.

Anyway, should I remove the valve cover and make sure that the cam lobes are in the correct position with cylinder #1 all the way up? Or, is there an easier way to make sure that everything is lined up at TDC?

Thanks.

 

[oilhammer]

When you tensioned the belt, the cam sprocket should move and land with the adjustment holes pretty much in the center, or pretty close to it, to allow for a fine tune adjustment EITHER way. Did that happen?

Also, engine temp will change this KW value some, so checking it under the same conditions before and after would be necessary.

 

[Ovrhill]

When you tensioned the belt, the cam sprocket should move and land with the adjustment holes pretty much in the center, or pretty close to it, to allow for a fine tune adjustment EITHER way. Did that happen?

When the belt was tightened the cam sprocket was in a retarded position. Not centered. I seem to be getting some resistance when hand turning the crank with the adjustment bolts re-centered. I think that I am probably off a few teeth on the cam sprocket somehow.

 

[Seatman]

When the belt was tightened the cam sprocket was in a retarded position. Not centered. I seem to be getting some resistance when hand turning the crank with the adjustment bolts re-centered. I think that I am probably off a few teeth on the cam sprocket somehow.

If you're worried refit the locking tools and check where you're at, you could always bump a tooth on the cam to get the slots in a better position while at it.

You will get some resistance though due to compression.

 

[Ovrhill]

I understand that there will be resistance. I guess that I should have described it as a "stop".

 

[Seatman]

I understand that there will be resistance. I guess that I should have described it as a "stop".

In that case I'd line it all back up and fit the locking tools to check, you'll soon know if it's badly out.