I saw the URO parts one on ECS tuning and saw that I could get it locally quicker and cheaper. Needless to say, lesson learned. Just didn't want to shell out $100 for one from the stealer, but that's what I ended up doing. By the way, I have found that you can ask for a best price from the stealers and often times they will give you a significantly lower price than what they first asked for. So I got a new hockey puck for $90 something after they asked for $120 something.
This was back in February actually. Before I put the new puck on, I pulled the valve cover, to realize that most of my leaks were from the valve cover nuts being bottomed out on the studs. I had never pulled the valve cover before, and the last people to touch it were the erroneously named Volksmasters in FL. I put an extra washer under each nut, and voila, it can be torqued down properly on the gasket. I put the new puck on and do not get oil leaking from the hoses going out of the puck.
The new puck was way more responsive than the old one. If you cover 2 holes, and pull a vacuum on the third, the valve will close. The old one was very slow to move. For the sake of science, I cut open the old one. So here you have it, the innards of my old $100 hockey puck.
That little hole there is where air is pulled in to expand the diaphragm. I had already soaked the whole thing and cleaned it out the best I thought I could before destroying it, but there must be a clog deeper in there. The top cannot be removed without cutting.
Old diaphragm vs. New diaphragm.
There is no puncture anywhere on the old diaphragm, and it wasn't brittle, didn't seem to be anything wrong with it. All the diaphragm does is expand to close the valve on the center hole which goes to the intake, against the resistance of the spring. The spring was fine. I think it was just a semi-clogged hole, but would sure be hard to clean that one out.
The only thing that can move that valve is vacuum from the intake, valve cover, or crankcase.