Passat B4 part numbers

[AlanTDI]

Hello,
Long story no so short.
2012 Sportswagon turned in Dec 7th
Put the 1996 Passat back on the road, after sitting in driveway 2 years.
Has front end fresh 4 years ago at M&M NJ, and alignment. Haven't driven it much since then only flushed brakes and changed oil, did the dreaded blend door last month.
Wanders to the left, while coasting. Already have new tires.
Mavis said alignment numbers were off, got alignment, no change.
Put on my garage lift, bushings, ball joints tie rods look and feel good.
On lift noticed, perished front motor mount(replaced 5 years ago with Meyele missing rear sub-frame bolt, missing lower start bolt, and loose upper starter bolt. leaking oil pan gasket.
My question is part numbers for
Rear sub-frame bolt
Lower starter bolt.
Is the rubber oil pan gasket a better choice than the cheaper Rein or Elring?
Also, does any one have these bolts they want to sell me?
Thank you for reading.

 

[Steve Addy]

First, I'd like to mention just so you know, that the car you are now starting to drive again is a much bigger polluter than the one you turned in. I'll leave it at that since I don't want to offend anyone.

Now, someone will probably have the bolts, but in case they don't, I now use this parts catalog online since vagcat has disappeared.

http://www.realoem.me/Volkswagen

You can generally find anything you need if you go to the right model / section.

The rubber oil pan gasket is superior to the older composition / cork gaskets of the past. It has limiters that prevent the pan from deforming if the bolts are tightened too much and being rubber it's not nearly the hassle to remove and cleanup like the composition gaskets.

gasket only # 044103609D
gasket with surge lock 'baffle' #037115220B

Steve

 

[AlanTDI]

Thank you,
that's great tool for finding stuff.
I know there are not many cars to compare to the Sportswagen
Pollution aside, the B4 is bullet proof (at least as far as I'm concerned)as comparison, have had the old 1996 since 2007.
Beside maintenance and bushings, thermostat and the normal B4 failure stuff,
blend door just fixed last month what a difference. Ignition switch was acting up but its good for now. And we can tackle that job when needed.
Oh yeah, the puddles behind the drivers seat, next big repair job.
Can't complain.
Dated but don't have to worry about DPF, Injector pump, CEL's, electric faults, thousands of dollars to repair, TB was due soon, etc. The TPMS light was always on unless I VAG COMed it off.
Next newer car will probably be Japanese (toyota,honda or American)
Getting to old for the constant VW TDI R and M

 

[206danebmx]

Any thoughts on how to fix the water puddles on the floorboards?

I have this problem and have tried pouring water with door panels and interior bits removed to figure out where its coming from and am stumped.

 

[Abacus]

Pull the plastic rain tray under the wipers and check for rust. The urethane tends to dry out on the lower windshield corners and let water in when you're driving.

 

[AlanTDI]

I ended up ordering the bolts and oil pan gasket from Jim Ellis using the balance of my 500 dealer goodwill card. They wanted 175 for the front motor mount, that's simply crazy, even if its the hydraulic filled one. The part they told me seemed like it was for a B3, so I'll get the mount local. That front mount was replaced, a few years ago probably with the meyele brand maybe thats why it failed so soon.
I get water behind the front seats, this spring I plan on removing interior, plastic and carpets to track down the source. If the rust isnt to bad i'll be happy.
i get puffs of smoke on hard accelerations, pollution?

 

[Steve Addy]

That's a lot for the front mount, which btw isn't hydraulic.

Steve