I replaced the rear calipers on my MK6 JSW 6MT. I took the fast way to get the park cable off the old caliper by just cutting the caliper with a cutting wheel. I can't get enough slack to rehook the cable to the new caliper. Does anyone have a guide, pictures, info, anything on the procedure for loosening and tightening the park cable on these? I just need maybe 1/4 of an inch in slack to get it on the new caliper. Thanks!
Park Brake Cable Adjustment
- Thread starter Gwe12328
- Start date
@Gwe12328 -- You need access to the p-brake cable bracket adjustment, below the center arm rest:
You can just see this bracket below the center console, here:
I recall reading somewhere that the nut can be accessed by drilling a hole from the lower rear of the arm rest frame after removing the rear vent and power inverter assembly (rather than removing the *entire* center console, as shown in the first image). --g
You can just see this bracket below the center console, here:
I recall reading somewhere that the nut can be accessed by drilling a hole from the lower rear of the arm rest frame after removing the rear vent and power inverter assembly (rather than removing the *entire* center console, as shown in the first image). --g
Do you know what all goes into removing the full center console? I'd rather not drill into trim pieces if I don't have to.@Gwe12328 -- You need access to the p-brake cable bracket adjustment, below the center arm rest:
You can just see this bracket below the center console, here:
I recall reading somewhere that the nut can be accessed by drilling a hole from the lower rear of the arm rest frame after removing the rear vent and power inverter assembly (rather than removing the *entire* center console, as shown in the first image). --g
oilhammer
Certified Volkswagen Nut & Vendor
It is a pretty big job, depending on which version it has. They didn't make it easy... I take the passenger seat out (which IS pretty easy) to gain more room. I'd plan on replacing the cables at this point.
Mine is the manual sportwagen with the power inverter under the rear vents.
@Gwe12328 -- This YouTube gets you 85% of the way:
This YouTube shows removal of the center armrest assembly, which gets you access to the p-brake cable bracket:
I don't know that we can remove the center armrest *only* in our wagons; I may have tried this some time ago and found that the center console needs to come out first. I think the only tools required are a T20 driver and trim removal tools. I also think the last time I did this, I pulled the gear shift knob, but was able to reuse the "single-use" clamp (with a few spares ready, just in case).
BTW, this is all described HERE, pp 32 - 45. --g
This YouTube shows removal of the center armrest assembly, which gets you access to the p-brake cable bracket:
I don't know that we can remove the center armrest *only* in our wagons; I may have tried this some time ago and found that the center console needs to come out first. I think the only tools required are a T20 driver and trim removal tools. I also think the last time I did this, I pulled the gear shift knob, but was able to reuse the "single-use" clamp (with a few spares ready, just in case).
BTW, this is all described HERE, pp 32 - 45. --g
I have the cable back on. Do you know the adjustment procedure? When I tigthen the cable even a little bit, the caliper clamps the brakes down and the hub stops moving. I can free it up by lightly pushing the spring portion of the caliper back, but as soon as I start tightening again, the brakes immediately lock up again. I'm nowhere near where the nut was originally seated before all this.
When I pull the hand brake up then drop it down, the rear caliper locks but doesn't release. Backing the nut off doesn't release it either. It seems the only way to release it is to lightly manually push the spring section of the caliper back with a pry bar. Just a few 1/4 inch turns (with the lever down) and the caliper locks back up again.
I also have just that one rear wheel off the ground if that makes a difference since it seems there's a cable going to each rear caliper.
When I pull the hand brake up then drop it down, the rear caliper locks but doesn't release. Backing the nut off doesn't release it either. It seems the only way to release it is to lightly manually push the spring section of the caliper back with a pry bar. Just a few 1/4 inch turns (with the lever down) and the caliper locks back up again.
I also have just that one rear wheel off the ground if that makes a difference since it seems there's a cable going to each rear caliper.
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McGuirk
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Is the emergency brake lever on the back of the caliper sitting fully against the stop when the e brake lever is down? Is your spring missing from the back of the caliper? If it isn't then something internally to the caliper is binding and not allowing full release of the e brake mechanism. You can buy re build kits for these calipers if needed. I've done a few of these and if you don't flush the brake fluid you tend to see the e brake mechanism corroded inside which could be your issue. Here is a really good video of the re build process.
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P2B
Top Post Dawg
This implies that either the new caliper is defective or the cable is binding in it's sheath.
P2B
Top Post Dawg
Yes, you are supposed to raise both rear wheels so you can check they spin freely after adjustment. Tighten the adjustment nut in the console until caliper levers just begin to move off their stops, then back off the nut until you have 2mm free play.
P2B
Top Post Dawg
Yes, then operate the park brake a couple of times to ensure it engages and releases on both wheels.