P2015 / VAG 008215 Intake Manifold Write-up and Replacement

T-MILLS

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 20, 2012
Location
Texas
TDI
2009 Jetta TDI
****Part 1****

This is my first try at a write-up but hopefully it serves well as these cars gain more miles and I suspect this problem becomes more common. My car is a 09 Jetta TDI with 90,XXX miles on it currently. I am getting a CEL with code P2015 Intake Manifold Runner Position Sensor/Switch Circuit Range/Performance Bank 1/ VAG

From what I’ve gathered through my research of the intake manifold, there are two intake valves per cylinder (fill channel and swirl channel) making 8 intake valves total with half of them being covered by the intake manifold flaps. The 4 intake valves without the flaps provide constant air to the engine while the 4 flaps open at a higher RPM to give optimum air movement to the engine. (Refer to pages 7-9 on manual or 11-13 on PDF viewer) http://www.dsd.go.th/itrain/km/kboc...Diesel_Engine_2.0L_TDI_CommonRail_BIN5_UL.pdf

That being said, I have had this code on my engine for a little loner than I would like (2-3 months) but have gathered that it’s not something that needs fixed immediately but like any problem it still needs fixed before it causes more trupble. I have read you should not expect lowered MPG but cannot 100% confirm this as I do mostly city driving and only get around 32 MPG anyways. Although the few times that I have gotten my car onto the highway for (longer) drives I did see a few MPG less that expected.

Troubleshooting Procedures:

***Use only gold-plated terminals when servicing any component with gold-plated electrical harness connector terminals.***

* Disconnect the Intake Flap Motor (V157) electrical harness connector.
Checking voltage

• Switch the ignition On.

* Using a multimeter, measure voltage supply between connector terminals 1 to 3 for voltage. Refer to Wiring Diagrams for Pin locations.
Specified value: approx. 5 V.

* Using a multimeter, measure voltage supply between connector terminals 4 to 5 for voltage.
Specified value: near 4.35 V.

* Using a multimeter, measure voltage supply between connector terminals 2 to 3 for voltage.
Specified value: approx. 5.01 V.

* Switch the ignition Off.

If the specified value was not obtained:

* Check the wiring for a short circuit to each other, Battery positive, Ground or high resistance.
* Check the wiring connections for damage, corrosion, loose or broken terminals.
* If necessary, repair the faulty wiring connection.

If no malfunction is detected in the wiring and the voltage readings were correct:

• Replace the Intake Flap Motor (V157). Refer to the service information for removal and installation procedures.

If no malfunction is detected in the wiring and the voltage readings were Not correct:

Checking wiring

* Remove the Engine Control Module (ECM) (J623). Refer to the repair information.
* Using a multimeter, check the Intake Flap Motor (V157) electrical harness connector to the Engine Control Module (ECM) (J623) electrical harness T60 connector for resistance. Refer to Wiring Diagrams for Pin locations.

Specified value: 1.5 ohms Max.

If the specification was not obtained:

* Check the wiring for a short circuit to each other, Battery positive, Ground or high resistance.
* If necessary, repair the faulty wiring connection.
* Check the electrical harness connector for damage, corrosion, loose or broken terminals.
If no malfunction is detected in the wiring and the voltage readings were Not correct:

* Replace the Engine Control Module (ECM) (J623). Refer to the service information for removal and installation procedures.
Final procedures

After the repair work, the following work steps must be performed in the following sequence:

1. Check the DTC memory. Refer to => [ Diagnostic Mode 03 - Read DTC Memory ] See: Computers and Control Systems\Testing and Inspection\Scan Tool Testing and Procedures\Diagnostic Modes 01 - 09.
2. If necessary, erase the DTC memory. Refer to => [ Diagnostic Mode 04 - Erase DTC Memory ] See: Computers and Control Systems\Testing and Inspection\Scan Tool Testing and Procedures\Diagnostic Modes 01 - 09.
3. If the DTC memory was erased, generate readiness code. Refer to => [ Readiness Code ] See: Computers and Control Systems\Testing and Inspection\Monitors, Trips, Drive Cycles and Readiness Codes.
 

T-MILLS

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 20, 2012
Location
Texas
TDI
2009 Jetta TDI
****Part 2****

Tools Required for R&R Intake Maifold:
*M8 and M10 Triple Square bit (the ones i purchased: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004DKHVM8/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) *** In the Bentley it says to use a T40159 (M8) to remove the intake manifold. With this tool it might not be necessary to remove the fuel rail because of the small curve in the shaft but cannot verify that***
*Hose Clamp Pliers (I used the round ones because the others were worthless but you might be able to get away with regular pliers: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000I1KJT8/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i02?ie=UTF8&psc=1 )
*Torx Star bit (i think T25 and T30)
*Torque Wrench for 6 to 18 ft-lb
*17mm crows foot (I bought from Harbor Freight Tools)
*Hose Pliers will help to pull of the rubber fuel lines and possibly glow plugs the way i used them (also purchased from Harbor Freight Tools)
*7mm and 10mm socket
*10mm open end wrench
*Zip ties and plastic bags.
*VCDS

Parts Required:
*03L-129-711-E – Intake Manifold ($285.48)
*03G-131-547-C – Gasket between EGR Valve and Intake Manifold ($7.02)
*03L-131-547-B – Gasket between EGR Valve and Throttle Valve ($6.77)
*069-131-547-D – Gasket between EGR Valve and Connecting Pipe ($7.70)
*N-104-086-02 – Bolt to Intake Manifold (not necessary to replace and if you order them they will be a Hex Head instead of the triple square so I opted to use the originals) ($1.06 x 10 = $10.60)

Now the fun part…

Removal and Replacement
*** To avoid personal injury, be sure the engine is cold before beginning this procedure.
*** Make sure no contaminants enter the fuel system when removing the intake manifold.
*** Before opening fuel system, wrap shop towels around connections and loosen connections slowly to release pressure.
***Clean fuel line connections. If necessary, use liquid detergent for this purpose. (I used WD-40 Specialist Machine & Engine Degreases Foaming Spray)
***Before opening fuel system, loosen the fuel cap to release residual pressure in the fuel tank.

Step 1:
*Remove engine cover.
*Disconnect the battery.
*Remove fuel rail protective strip.

Step 2:
*Remove High Pressure fuel line fasteners on Intake Manifold (Red Arrows).
*Loosen High Pressure fuel line fastener held down by Intake Manifold bolt (Purple Arrow).
*Remove Coolant Line bolts from Intake Manifold (Green Arrow). Rest coolant line in front of manifold.
*Detach connectors at fuel injectors (Red Arrows), Fuel Pressure Sensor (Red Arrow) [Left side of Fuel Rail], and Intake Flap Motor (V157 Red Arrow) connectors.


Step 3:
*Unclip electrical harness from glow plug wire loom.
*Use pliers to pull connectors off of glow plugs. (Bentley Manual says use VAG special 3314 or equivalent. I used the medium size of hose pliers around the top of the connector as you can see in the picture. Just be sure not to damage the connector.)


Step 4:
*Remove high pressure fuel line between fuel pump and high pressure accumulator (common rail) (Pictured in Step 1 in purple).
*Plug open fuel lines and ports. (I laid a shop towel over the pump and put the fuel line in the bubble wrap bag that my new intake manifold came in)

Step 5:
*Loosen hose clamp and detach fuel return line from fuel rail. (I used a zip-tie and bag around this hose to keep debris out.)


Step 6:
*At this point you should be able to the wire harness to the glow plugs out of the way.


Step 7:
***This is the step you might be able to skip if you have the T40159 triple square that Bentley calls for, but again I cannot verify that as I used a regular triple square bit.****
*Remove the Fuel pressure regulator valve (not pictured) on the driver side of the fuel rail.
*Loosen the high pressure fuel lines coming from the fuel rail going to the injectors.
*Remove the M10 triple square bolts holding rail in place.
*Remove fuel rail and cover the injector lines with bags and zip ties.
(At this point I took an air hose and blew out any debris that was around the intake manifold)
 

T-MILLS

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 20, 2012
Location
Texas
TDI
2009 Jetta TDI
****Part 3****

Step 8:
*Loosen hose clamp and remove fuel return line at high pressure pump. (The hose pliers came in handy on this hose, it would not budge any other way).
*Cover open fuel lines and ports.
*Remove connectors for the Fuel Temp Sensor and what I believe is the Fuel Metering Valve.


Step 9:
*Detach throttle valve control module connector.
*Loosen hose clamp and remove charge air hose (7mm).
*Remove oil dipstick bracket (10mm).


Step 10:
*Remove connecting pipe fasteners and detach connecting pipe (M10). (To avoid crack in the connecting pipe, make sure the decoupling element does not bend or stretch).


Step 11:
*Detach EGR vacuum regulator solenoid valve connector. (Green)
*Loosen intake manifold bolts (M8) evenly in a diagonal pattern, starting with the outside fasteners.
*Remove intake manifold.


Step 12:
*The next few pictures are before and after photos of how gunked up the intake manifold, EGR Valve and Throttle valve were when I removed them as well as what the EGR valve looked like after I cleaned it.
*To clean the EGR and Throttle Valve I used the same WD-40 Specialist Machine & Engine Degreases Foaming Spray (I know it probably isn’t the best thing to use) to clean them out. It worked wonders on the Valves but I just made sure after I cleaned them that I wiped them down good and sprayed out any residue with an air compressor before reinstalling.






Step 13:
*Im not going in depth with replacement procedure as its just the opposite of removal but be sure to replace the seals and gaskets with new when installing the new parts.
*Be sure not to drop the gasket that fits between the EGR Valve and Connecting pipe when re-installing.
*Tighten intake manifold bolts evenly in a diagonal pattern from inside to outside.
*When reinstalling high pressure lines tighten union nuts by hand first, making sure they are seated stress-free. Then torque lines (Bentley calls for special crows foot socket VAG T40055 but I just used a regular 17mm crows foot).
*Reattach glow plug harness connectors carefully. Press connector on until it engages firmly.
Before starting vehicle, make sure fuel tank is filled, then prime fuel pump. (This is the point where I ran into trouble and actually had to have the car towed to a shop. The mechanic told that he just bled the injectors. From how he explained it to me, when you remove the rail and there is absolutely no fuel in the high pressure lines priming the system cant push the air out when everything is connected so he just disconnected the fuel lines above the injectors and bled the system until fuel came out of the lines right there. Hopefully you can learn from my mistakes and not have to get a tow)
*Run engine at idle for approx. 2 Minutes to bleed fuel system then check fuel lines and connectors for leaks.

Torque Specs:
Intake Manifold bolts – 8 Nm (6 ft-lb)
High pressure fuel lines – 25 Nm (18 ft-lb)
Bolts from connecting pipe to EGR Valve – 20 Nm (15 ft-lb)
Bolts connecting Throttle Valve and EGR to Intake Manifold – 8 Nm (6 ft-lb)
Oil dipstick bolt – 8 Nm (6 ft-lb)
Fuel Rail botls – 22 Nm (16 ft-lb)

Before I primed my fuel system and started the car I went ahead and replace my fuel filter for good measure. If you don not know how here is a good write up on how to do this for the MKV jetta:
http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q/a5/2009-2010-VW-TDI-fuel-filter.htm

Grand total:
Tools that I didn’t have - $60
VCDS cable - $250
Parts - $357
Towing my car and bleeding injectors - $180
Lift (im in the military and we have access to an auto hobby shop that you can use their lifts) - $45

Total - $892

Now you can obviously save money if you have the tools/VCDS cable to do the repair and learning from my mistake about bleeding the injectors and not having to have the car towed. I did go over what the a shop quoted me (about $700) but now I have the tools to do other repairs including a cable so next time this wont be as expensive.

Overall this wasn’t a hard repair and would rate it about a 3.5 out of 5 but it just took a good chunk out of a Saturday afternoon.

Thanks for anyone who helped me out and gave answers to me while I was researching how to do this repair.

All the best.
 

TerryE

Well-known member
Joined
May 25, 2007
Location
Laguna Hills CA
TDI
tbd
Thanks T-Mills.
I had same problem and had my dealer do it since there was no write up etc.
This is sure to help alot of folks in the future and they should save this in the archives or DIY section.
Terry
 

OK12V

Member
Joined
Aug 28, 2010
Location
Salem OR
TDI
2005.5 Jetta 5spd, 1997 Cummins, 2005 Mercedes Sprinter 2.7 TD
Wow they actually put intake in front of the engine. I just went through removing intake on my BRM and that was a pain...
 

Adam

Veteran Member
Joined
May 26, 1999
Location
Burlington, MA, USA
TDI
96 Passat TDI (Wagon)
Just Replaced Intake Manifold

Thanks a lot for the instructions. I was able to replace my intake manifold without removing the high pressure fuel rail, and only disconnecting part of the low pressure fuel return line. I removed the bolts that hold the fuel rail in place, and used a small pry bar to move it back when I needed to access the rear bolts holding the intake manifold in place.

-Adam
 

tdi_rox

New member
Joined
May 12, 2014
Location
Thousand Oaks, CA
TDI
'09 VW Jetta
This is really great info and the write-up is presented in a very systematic way. Just need a little clarification: after everything is put together,do you need to perform EGR adaptation in VCDS? How about the throttle body?
 

redvw

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 2, 2008
Location
NY
TDI
Jetta
Sunrise V.W. had my 2009 Jetta TDI in their shop yesterday, and after diagnostics informed me that I needed both cooling fans, and the intake manifold replaced. I have Geico Mechanical Break Down insurance. The adjuster only approved the replacement of the cooling fans. On the way home my check engine light came on, I heard a pop sound from the engine, and lost all of the cars power. I believe the Intake Manifold failed, and caused the loss of engine power. The car was then towed back to Sunrise V.W. The vehicle has 79,000 miles. After being in the shop for 4 days Sunrise V.W. confirmed the failure or the intake manifold. Geico has approved the repair. Waiting now for the parts to be ordered.
 
Last edited:

mattthewriter

Member
Joined
Jan 8, 2006
TDI
2010 Sportwagen
Thanks for this write up. It looks like I'll be doing the job. I'm in a 2010 VW TDI Sportwagen with 126,00 miles. I'm assuming that a new intake manifold would be better than modifying the flap motor to limit travel, as I've seen in other posts, as a new manifold has got to be clearer than what I'm running now and worth the $300.
The question: the replacement bolts you mention for the intake manifold are allen head and not triple square. Is there an advantage to replacing these bolts. I've tried to find the specially tool to avoid removing the common rail (VW tool T40159 (M8)) but it is back ordered from Germany until March. My thinking is, replace with the allen head bolts and then find an extra long 8mm allen head socket in place of that speciality tool in future jobs where the intake manifold needs removed.
Is my logic off in this thinking?
 

corrado tdi

TDIClub Enthusiast, Vendor , w/Business number
Joined
Oct 3, 2000
Location
San Antonio, Texas, U.S.A.
TDI
2016 Golf TDI
If anyone is reading this you should know that removing the intake is not necessary. We have the P2015 repair bracket available on our site starting to fix this issue even if your flapper motor doesn't move any more. It will install in 15 minutes and won't require opening the delicate fuel system or require replacement of any original parts.
 
Last edited:

N41EF

Veteran Member
Joined
Feb 22, 2005
Location
Aiken, SC
TDI
2011 Golf, 2009 ML 320, 2006 NB, 2001 NB
My flap motor didn't move when I cycled it with vag-comm, so I replaced the whole manifold today. On my 2011 there is an aluminum heat shield/support under the intake just behind the rubber elbow that comes up to the intake. THere are two torx screws that come up from the bottom and have to be removed before you can remove the intake. One is slightly to the right and one straight back, if you feel around you can find them.

I removed the HP fuel lines from the fuel manifold, and loosened them from the injectors. Loosened the HP manifold and got the intake out.

I ordered the intake from Keffler VW and the gaskets, with shipping right at $360.00 total, Took about 3.5 hours, almost an hour to figure out the stupid aluminum plate under there.

I could do another one in 2 hours.
 

corrado tdi

TDIClub Enthusiast, Vendor , w/Business number
Joined
Oct 3, 2000
Location
San Antonio, Texas, U.S.A.
TDI
2016 Golf TDI
N41EF and all,

I know your motor was seemingly kaput but I have found that if your V157 flapper motor doesn't move then you have to pull the motor arm into the "acceptable" range to get it working. After it has been shown to move you can save the manifold with one of our P2015 fix kits.
 
Last edited:

N41EF

Veteran Member
Joined
Feb 22, 2005
Location
Aiken, SC
TDI
2011 Golf, 2009 ML 320, 2006 NB, 2001 NB
I tried moving the arm with a screwdriver and it would move. Voltages were correct. Once off the flaps moved freely, and the motor was not bound. Mine was a failure of the motor.

VW says the flap motor can't be purchased separately, but it's a VDO part:
03L 129 086 V120
10 423 90 S01
A2C53248883
 
Last edited:

corrado tdi

TDIClub Enthusiast, Vendor , w/Business number
Joined
Oct 3, 2000
Location
San Antonio, Texas, U.S.A.
TDI
2016 Golf TDI
I tried moving the arm with a screwdriver and it would move. Voltages were correct. Once off the flaps moved freely, and the motor was not bound. Mine was a failure of the motor.
If your V157 motor linkage moves by pulling the linkage arm forward then your motor is fine and just needs to be held in an acceptable range of motion with one of our P2015 repair kits.
 

geostar

Veteran Member
Joined
Jan 18, 2005
Location
North Shore, MA
TDI
Jetta 2001 TDI, Jetta 2009 TDI
Thanks T-Mills for the through procedural write up. Your quality work is what makes this site great and so useful! It is nice to see the pictures of how the internals work.

I feel it is necessary to validate corrado-tdi's opinion of just limiting the stroke of the actuator externally to solve the common problem of P2015. Limiting externally is a low cost, and less invasive procedure. He has a nice kit that he sells. I did it by adding a screw to the actuator housing.

I was tricked to think that my motor was dead, when it didnt respond to the VCDS test routine. That was because when you start the car it immediately faults, and then goes into safe mode, making the actuator inoperable. To get by this, start the car, clear the fault, move the arm by hand to get it off its hard stop, and then run the routine. The routine, cycles it back and fourth. You could also have someone step on the accelerator and watch it go back and forth.

It sounds like your actuator motor was dead, so you did the right thing.
 

jackblack

Member
Joined
Aug 14, 2019
Location
Lithuania
TDI
Golf 6
Hello i have a 5v missing between wire 2-3. Can some one give some directions were to look.

Greetings, I have the same problem and this issue is starting to kill me now. I tried everything from replacing the parts to using dieselgeeks hack the issue is still there. For some reasons I also get 0 voltage on conectors 2-3. Anyone could advice?
 

corrado tdi

TDIClub Enthusiast, Vendor , w/Business number
Joined
Oct 3, 2000
Location
San Antonio, Texas, U.S.A.
TDI
2016 Golf TDI
Intake Manifold Flap Motor and Runner Position Sensor, Checking
Observe all safety precautions: → Chapter „Safety Precautions“
View clean working conditions: → Chapter „Clean Working Conditions“
Prior to repair work, perform a preliminary check to verify the condition. Refer to → Chapter
„Preliminary Check“.
Use only gold-plated terminals when servicing any component with gold-plated electrical
harness connector terminals.
For wiring diagrams, component locations, and connector views, Refer to the applicable wiring
diagram.
Special tools and workshop equipment required
t multimeter.
t Wiring diagram.
Test requirements
l The ignition switched off.
Start diagnosis
– Disconnect the Intake Flap Motor -V157- electrical harness connector .
Checking voltage
– Switch the ignition on.
– Using a multimeter, measure voltage supply between connector terminals 1 to 3 for voltage.
Specified value: approx. 5 V.
If the specified value was not obtained:
– Check the wiring for a short circuit to each other, Battery positive, Ground or high resistance.
– Check the wiring connections for damage, corrosion, loose or broken terminals.
– If necessary, repair the faulty wiring connection.
If the specified value was obtained:
– Using a multimeter, measure voltage supply between connector terminals 4 to 5 for voltage.
Specified value: near 4.35 V.
If the specified value was not obtained:
– Check the wiring for a short circuit to each other, Battery positive, Ground or high resistance.
– Check the wiring connections for damage, corrosion, loose or broken terminals.
– If necessary, repair the faulty wiring connection.
If the specified value was obtained:
– Using a multimeter, measure voltage supply between connector terminals 2 to 3 for voltage.
Specified value: approx. 5.01 V.
If the specified value was not obtained:
– Check the wiring for a short circuit to each other, Battery positive, Ground or high resistance.
– Check the wiring connections for damage, corrosion, loose or broken terminals.
– If necessary, repair the faulty wiring connection.
If no malfunction is detected in the wiring and the voltage readings were correct:

Replace the Intake Flap Motor -V157-. Refer to the service manual for removal and installation procedures. (Very uncommon failure)

Intake Manifold Flap Motor and Runner Position Sensor, Checking Page 1 of 2

If no malfunction is detected in the wiring and the voltage readings were Not correct:

Checking wiring
If the manufacturers test box is being used, perform the following step.
– Install the test box.
If the manufacturers test box is not being used, perform the following step.
– Remove the Engine Control Module (ECM) -J623-. Refer to the Repair Manual.

Using a multimeter, check the Intake Flap Motor -V157- electrical harness connector to the
Engine Control Module (ECM) -J623- electrical harness T60 connector for resistance.
Intake Flap Motor -V157- electrical
harness connector terminal
Engine Control Module (ECM) -J623- electrical
harness connector T60 terminals or test box socket
1 10
2 27
3 51
4 35
5 50
Specified value: 1.5 Ω Max.
If the specification was not obtained:
– Check the wiring for a short circuit to each other, Battery positive, Ground or high resistance.
– If necessary, repair the faulty wiring connection.
– Check the electrical harness connector for damage, corrosion, loose or broken terminals.
If no malfunction is detected in the wiring and the voltage readings were Not correct:

Replace the Engine Control Module (ECM) -J623-. Refer to the service manual for removal and installation procedures.
Final procedures
After the repair work, the following work steps must be performed in the following sequence:
1 - Check the DTC memory. Refer to → Chapter „Diagnostic Mode 03 - Read DTC Memory“.
2 - If necessary, erase the DTC memory. Refer to → Chapter „Diagnostic Mode 04 - Erase
DTC Memory“.
3 - If the DTC memory was erased, generate readiness code. Refer to → Chapter "Readiness Code“.
 

jackblack

Member
Joined
Aug 14, 2019
Location
Lithuania
TDI
Golf 6
Intake Manifold Flap Motor and Runner Position Sensor, Checking
Observe all safety precautions: → Chapter „Safety Precautions“
View clean working conditions: → Chapter „Clean Working Conditions“
Prior to repair work, perform a preliminary check to verify the condition. Refer to → Chapter
„Preliminary Check“.
Use only gold-plated terminals when servicing any component with gold-plated electrical
harness connector terminals.
For wiring diagrams, component locations, and connector views, Refer to the applicable wiring
diagram.
Special tools and workshop equipment required
t multimeter.
t Wiring diagram.
Test requirements
l The ignition switched off.
Start diagnosis
– Disconnect the Intake Flap Motor -V157- electrical harness connector .
Checking voltage
– Switch the ignition on.
– Using a multimeter, measure voltage supply between connector terminals 1 to 3 for voltage.
Specified value: approx. 5 V.
If the specified value was not obtained:
– Check the wiring for a short circuit to each other, Battery positive, Ground or high resistance.
– Check the wiring connections for damage, corrosion, loose or broken terminals.
– If necessary, repair the faulty wiring connection.
If the specified value was obtained:
– Using a multimeter, measure voltage supply between connector terminals 4 to 5 for voltage.
Specified value: near 4.35 V.
If the specified value was not obtained:
– Check the wiring for a short circuit to each other, Battery positive, Ground or high resistance.
– Check the wiring connections for damage, corrosion, loose or broken terminals.
– If necessary, repair the faulty wiring connection.
If the specified value was obtained:
– Using a multimeter, measure voltage supply between connector terminals 2 to 3 for voltage.
Specified value: approx. 5.01 V.
If the specified value was not obtained:
– Check the wiring for a short circuit to each other, Battery positive, Ground or high resistance.
– Check the wiring connections for damage, corrosion, loose or broken terminals.
– If necessary, repair the faulty wiring connection.
If no malfunction is detected in the wiring and the voltage readings were correct:
Replace the Intake Flap Motor -V157-. Refer to the service manual for removal and installation procedures. (Very uncommon failure)
Intake Manifold Flap Motor and Runner Position Sensor, Checking Page 1 of 2
If no malfunction is detected in the wiring and the voltage readings were Not correct:
Checking wiring
If the manufacturers test box is being used, perform the following step.
– Install the test box.
If the manufacturers test box is not being used, perform the following step.
– Remove the Engine Control Module (ECM) -J623-. Refer to the Repair Manual.
Using a multimeter, check the Intake Flap Motor -V157- electrical harness connector to the
Engine Control Module (ECM) -J623- electrical harness T60 connector for resistance.
Intake Flap Motor -V157- electrical
harness connector terminal
Engine Control Module (ECM) -J623- electrical
harness connector T60 terminals or test box socket
1 10
2 27
3 51
4 35
5 50
Specified value: 1.5 Ω Max.
If the specification was not obtained:
– Check the wiring for a short circuit to each other, Battery positive, Ground or high resistance.
– If necessary, repair the faulty wiring connection.
– Check the electrical harness connector for damage, corrosion, loose or broken terminals.
If no malfunction is detected in the wiring and the voltage readings were Not correct:
Replace the Engine Control Module (ECM) -J623-. Refer to the service manual for removal and installation procedures.
Final procedures
After the repair work, the following work steps must be performed in the following sequence:
1 - Check the DTC memory. Refer to → Chapter „Diagnostic Mode 03 - Read DTC Memory“.
2 - If necessary, erase the DTC memory. Refer to → Chapter „Diagnostic Mode 04 - Erase
DTC Memory“.
3 - If the DTC memory was erased, generate readiness code. Refer to → Chapter "Readiness Code“.
Hey man, thank you so much, it really helped me a lot.

I have checked the wiring again with my electrician and he states that the ECU is faulty as it does not give the power to the connector. He suggested to programmatically remove the intake manifold valves. Thanks once again.
 

1automan

New member
Joined
Feb 7, 2017
Location
Greenville, SC
TDI
2009 (CBEA) & 2010 (CJAA) Jetta Sedans
Just wanted to thank T-Mills for this write up. I just completed replacement of the intake manifold on my 2009 MKV with 270k miles as the flap motor had been acting up over the past several months and throwing codes. I debated removing the intake cleaning the carbon buildup and replacing the motor, but for the slight difference in cost for the motor vs entire intake I opted to just replace it all. I figured after 270k miles it was money well spent to avoid having to do it again in the next couple of years. What prompted the repair though was an Engine Fault Workshop message and code for the throttle body, so it along with the EGR valve was replaced at the same time.

Thanks again for the write up as the repair went smoothly. I did have the T40159 tool but still removed the fuel rail by disconnecting the fuel injector lines at the rail rather than at the injectors. After reassembling everything I left one of the these connections loose when running the fuel pump & aux pump with VAG-COMM to purge the air, and the engine fired up without a problem.
 

Matthewsz

Veteran Member
Joined
Aug 9, 2015
Location
San Diego
TDI
06 Jetta, 09 wagon
For anyone reading this, I had 008213 code and the dealer replaced the intake manifold for free under the extended TDI warranty.
 
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