P2015 intake manifold flap fix how-to

[ATR]

I'm pretty sure that you could find a tdi guru in reasonable driving distance to help install it.

 

[runonbeer]

Just called my VW dealer in Melbourne, FL to see if they would install the bracket. Not to my surprise they said no. No mention about any extended warranty, so I think its the exhaust flap like was mentioned. Going to try the local VW shop, altho they mostly work on older cars I think, my regular brakes, battery type mechanic, one other guy then I may give up. I cannot install it myself. Guess I'll drive it until I can scrape up the money to buy a new manifold and hope I don't do any further damage to it.

Do you have the part? Just take it in to a shop and show them the install video on your phone or laptop. It's a snap. If they refuse, tell them they are a bunch of chickens and move on to the next shop.

Any mechanic should be able to install this in 30 minutes or less even if they have never seen a TDI engine in their life.

 

[aphoap]

I bought the bracket when it first became available. Tried the hook method, but was having trouble. On my bracket the hole for the lower motor bolt fits but it is just a little tight. It made it a little harder to install. I eventually did it, but wasn't getting it to seat right after a few tries. Jim was very good in following up through email(Thanks). But I wasn't in a hurry to take off the flap motor and my car drove fine, so I put it off( sorry Jim).
I installed it a few days ago, so I could get rid of the MIL before I went to get a smog test. I use a hand reamer to make the hole a little bigger. I used the hook method to align and installed it which was very easy this time. But it still wouldn't seat right. I hook up VCDS and the voltage showed 0.304. Remembering it need to be at least .380 for the flap motor to work, I used a screw driver to lift the arm slightly. I turn on the flap motor with VCDS and it work but drop back to .304 when it finished. I loosen the bolts holding the bracket slightly. I raise the arm slightly again and turn on the flap motor. As soon as the arm lifts, I push up on the bracket to allow it to seat higher and tightened the bolts. Now the voltage is 0.532 and flap motor works fine and MIL hasn't return after I cleared it. Hope this can help others out.
59

 

[TurtleRacer]

2010 Golf TDI P2015

Hey guys,
I work at a shop and we had a customer with a 2010 Golf TDI come in with a flashing glow plug light as well as a CEL, we scanned the car and it had two engine codes:008200/P2008 intake manifold flap;bank 1-electrical malfunction
and 001592/P0638 throttle body actuator bank 1(j338)-implausible signal
we did not stumble on the diesel geek fix at that point so we checked the wiring and ended up replacing the intake flap motor, customer picked up the vehicle it ran good for half the day and started having the same issues: rough idle and hesitation when accelerating. We later got the bracket in, installed it, had the same issues so I got him to come back in to check the bracket to make sure it was flush and pull up the intake flap in vag com. I adjusted the bracket slightly since it wasn't completely flush. The codes which were in the system before clearing them were: P2015(was in the scan twice), P2006, and P2004. When clearing the codes, the P2004 (intake manifold flap stuck open) code stayed on and did not clear. when in basic settings, the lower voltage stops at 1.292V the higher limit of the voltage stopped at 3.648V.
After adjusting the bracket the customer called back saying that the vehicle was running great but he had scanned it a found a p2015 code in the system.
Any ideas would be greatly appreciated
Thanks,
Phillip

 

[Dieselgeek]

Please contact us at sales at dieselgeek dot com and we'll get you sorted...

 

[Craig72]

Just wanted to report for anyone else with this issue: I purchased the part from dieselgeek.com, got it installed in literally 5 minutes without even taking my motor off the manifold, and it completely eliminated my P2015 code (at least so far... two days of driving now). This fix works. Thanks Jim!

 

[Dieselgeek]

That's great that you got it fixed, Craig. However, for those who will do the procedure in the future I still recommend removing the V157 motor to ensure the repair bracket is positioned correctly. The video on the product page shows the recommended procedure done in about 8 minutes.

 

[mmglass]

Just to let everyone know that the part from dieselgeek.com, to fix the P2015 code issue on the V157motor, worked for me on my 2010 Jetta TDI Sportswagon. It is amazing how this small part can resolve a problem that would have costed +$300 for the manifold/motor replacement part at the dealership. Initially, I had problems with the part installation. Jim and his team worked with me and provided detailed instructions and directions that were clear and concise, on target and very responsive. Without question, he and his team are the best! The customer service is outstanding in every aspect. I greatly appreciate all their assistance and am one very fully satisfied customer.

 

[TDI Hoo]

Add me to the list of satisfied customers. Glad I found about this on this forum. Thanks, Jim! I had to remove the motor for installation, but it still is a 15-20 minute fix at most. Just let the engine cool down for 45 minutes after driving. I happened to have a hemostat clamp to grab the spring, which really makes it a simple task. While you can put the bracket on without removing the motor, it is definitely easier to confirm proper installation and alignment with just a few more minutes of time by removing the V157 motor. I had some questions, and support from Jim and Paula was helpful and fast! You can do this.

 

[ToolNut]

Our 2011 JSW 6-sp (Save the Manuals!) has had the P2015/P2016 code for months, and with an impending annual Massachusetts inspection coming up, I finally decided it was time to fix it. I had already tried clearing the codes with VCDS, but to no avail. I was happy to see that the kind folks at DieselGeek had a solution with the flap limiter bracket. First-time install for me, so it took longer than 15 minutes, but it works! I cleared both codes and they haven't come back. Thanks to Jim Royston for another fine product.

 

[UberVW_TDI]

Just had the P2015 MIL code yesterday @ 130,000 miles.
I installed the dieselgeek.com fix, as I had purchased one with the diesel geek timing belt kit last summer.
Easy fix! Thanks dieselgeek for the great solution to this common issue!!!

 

[iadubber]

I'm another happy customer of the DG fix! I ended up taking the motor off just because it was easier for me. It's not hard to pop the arm and spring off and makes it easier to install the bracket. Going on a week now and the code has not returned. The motor now operates freely when I run the output test in VCDS.

 

[Tailwind]

Brain Damage

I installed the fix (thanks Jim), but MIL keeps returning. I went thru the electrical tests and after that now have P2017 as well as P2008.
VCDS Gr 121 shows 5.08V and won't run test, or vary if I move the arm. Output test does not move motor. Removed V157 and tested on bench; Motor turns and Sensor varies voltage. I think the ECU has problems. My question is, I read somewhere that a tune will turn off MIL from some sensors. Will it do it in this case?
TIA

Mark

 

[Dieselgeek]

Mark,

Send us a good, clear close-up picture of your installed bracket to salesatdieselgeekdotcom and we'll take a look. We have a checklist for finicky setups like yours that we can use to isolate the issue.

 

[Tailwind]

Big thanks to Jim
www.dieselgeek.com
for sending me another motor to see if it fixed the problem. Unfortunately, the symptom persists. I need to troubleshoot the ECU.

Mark

Edit 3/30/17
My Dealer Card was expiring in November, so I took my car in and had the Timing Belt/Water Pump done. I talked to the SR Tom about this and he suggested I have them evaluate it. I'm glad I did. They suggested the wires be replaced on the V157 plug, and the Tech mentioned the female pins seemed to be spread. This was from me inserting pieces of buss wire to do measurements. When i got home, I pressed the sides of the pins in and VOILA! problem gone.

 

[Dieselgeek]

We tried, right? I guess you can't win 'em all.

 

[redbug119]

Found 2 local guys willing to give the bracket a try - first guy only seemed to have a part time backyard shop and I didn't get a warm and fuzzy feeling when I drove up there and he wasnt there - he was at "his other job". So I went to my salesman (who is a vintage VW guy) at the dealer and asked for a recommendation. The shop has "Foreign" in the name, so I figured he was my best bet. Went to that shop with the printed info from the website and he said he'd give it a try. Ordered the part, took it in Wednesday, he installed it, so far so good. Asked him if it was easy, he said he watched the video and went from there. Thank you Tim and deiselgeek for saving me $900!

 

[runonbeer]

Finally! Glad to hear it.

I'm fixing 1-2 cars per week with these. Jim, I'll swing by next week for another 10. Installed my last one yesterday.

 

[ticketed2much]

Ordered mine last Saturday and had it in the mail Monday. No code, did it as a preventative. Put it on today in a leasurly 30 minutes.

 

[STRANGETDI]

Ordered mine last Saturday and had it in the mail Monday. No code, did it as a preventative.

I think that is what I am going to do as well.

 

[bugaloo78]

I had the P2015 code and P2016. Dieselgeek's bracket worked like a champ. The motor used to travel about 20 degrees further than it does with the bracket installed.

 

[AlcoC420]

Here are pics installed. Does it look correct? Felt good going together.

Just wanted to note that your photography skills are outstanding! Nice to see such fine work.

I'll be ordering the Diesel Geek repair bracket soon as soon as I watch the YouTube video a few more times to assure myself that I can do this without losing the spring. The video shows what looks like a removed intake manifold atop the engine. The intake manifold doesn't need to be removed to access the V157 motor does it?

Our JSW (at 80,000 Miles) is intermittently illuminating our CEL. Pep Boys read the code as a P2015, so odds are good that this fix will succeed. Thanks for all of the information everyone!

 

[bugaloo78]

You really won't have to worry about the spring. Removing the whole motor isn't necessary. Just remove the bottom screw, use a hook to pull the arm back some and install the bracket.

Sent from my 831C using Tapatalk

 

[Dieselgeek]

bugaloo78,

While I agree with you that the spring is superfluous on a well used manifold, I must respectfully disagree with the statement about not removing the motor to install our repair bracket. We have very few customers who have issues with the bracket not working right on the initial install but of those that have issues it is very often due to NOT removing the motor to install our bracket and getting the bracket on slightly crooked. It is much harder to get the bracket positioned correctly if it is not off the manifold. We therefore strongly recommend removing the V157 flapper motor as my P2015 YouTube video shows.

 

[740GLE]

removing the motor was worth it, except i didn't have the right combination of extensions and universals to make it a 10 minute job, it was more of 20 min, but still well worth it.

Jim, any chance you have a number of how many of these you've sold since coming up with this?

You buy a second boat yet?

 

[ricks]

Being a card carrying mechanical idiot and watching the video 3X and following it to the letter, it took 10 mins. Of course this doesn't count the time removing the belly pan to get a bolt I bumped off the air filter. . But while I was there I whipped out my drill and put a tiny hole in the intercooler plastic pipe and got a couple of tbs of water.

 

[AlcoC420]

I installed my Dieselgeek Code P2015 bracket this afternoon. Took about 1-1/2 Hours, but I'm methodical and was in no hurry. Textbook install, everything squared up and spring properly in place. I had a hard time pressing the connecting arm socket onto the ball on the motor, but I eventually got it and it moves freely. YouTube video was great.

However, my CEL is still lit. I made a quick drive around the neighborhood, starting and shutting down the motor four times. Perhaps the drive cycles need to be longer?

 

[jason_]

Yeah, roll 50 miles with a few key cycles.

ECM cycles it with key off to map new limits. Once it learns consistency, it should turn off eventually.

Sent from my One using Tapatalk

 

[AlcoC420]

Yeah, roll 50 miles with a few key cycles.

ECM cycles it with key off to map new limits. Once it learns consistency, it should turn off eventually.

Okay then, thanks for the quick reply Jason.

 

[740GLE]

mine was 4 restarts in the garage and mil was all good