P0401 & P2002 Codes

DragginTheLine...

New member
Joined
Mar 10, 2023
Location
Virginia, USA
TDI
2012 Golf
I have a 2012 VW Golf TDI, check engine light came on a few days ago and returned both the P0401 & P2002 codes.


Thinking it's probably a cracked DPF (have some dry soot in the tailpipe, but no other issues to speak of. Fuel eco is good, revs up fine, starts fine etc.,. which im guessing wouldnt be the case if the DPF was blocked?).

How feasible is it to swap out the DPF & EGR filter at home on jackstands on my model?


Any thoughts are appreciated.

Thanks!
 

Western_D

Member
Joined
Mar 10, 2023
Location
Bellingham, WA
TDI
2012 Golf TDI
I have this same exact scenario as you . Just took my car into the dealer and they want to replace the DPF for $3,500. They did the finger swipe test in the DPF after removing the EGR filter connection and found heavy soot build up. So they automatically prescribe a DPF replacement.

I drive my car very little, usually 1 mile a day and then on Fridays about 4 miles at around 30 to 40 mph. In my case I think this driving style is a scenario for soot buildup since I don't run it hot enough to burn off.

Maybe there's still hope for us!
 

DragginTheLine...

New member
Joined
Mar 10, 2023
Location
Virginia, USA
TDI
2012 Golf
I have this same exact scenario as you . Just took my car into the dealer and they want to replace the DPF for $3,500. They did the finger swipe test in the DPF after removing the EGR filter connection and found heavy soot build up. So they automatically prescribe a DPF replacement.

I drive my car very little, usually 1 mile a day and then on Fridays about 4 miles at around 30 to 40 mph. In my case I think this driving style is a scenario for soot buildup since I don't run it hot enough to burn off.

Maybe there's still hope for us!

Oh geez, $3500?. A new DPF is $300ish. Honestly though, a couple doses of DPF cleaner and a drive on the highway a few times a week might be enough for yours to regen.
 
Last edited:

thatwhitejsw

Veteran Member
Joined
Dec 11, 2018
Location
Clermont, FL
TDI
MK6 JSW TDI
Oh geez, $3500?. A new DPF is $300ish. Honestly though, a couple doses of DPF cleaner and a drive on the highway a few times a week might be enough for yours to regen.
Actually they're about $1000 for the CJAA like yours, and it's a good bit of labor getting the thing out of there and even more if they replace the EGR & other components. I had it done twice on mine about a year apart and just recently finally went the route of deleting after the light came on for it again. Unfortunately it looks like you wouldn't be able to get away with that in Virginia.
 

ThomasCo

Veteran Member
Joined
Sep 15, 2020
Location
SoCal
TDI
2010 JSW TDI
Actually they're about $1000 for the CJAA like yours, and it's a good bit of labor getting the thing out of there and even more if they replace the EGR & other components. I had it done twice on mine about a year apart and just recently finally went the route of deleting after the light came on for it again. Unfortunately it looks like you wouldn't be able to get away with that in Virginia.
Make that more like $1,300 these days, just for the DPF. Add another hundo or so for the EGR filter.
 

ThomasCo

Veteran Member
Joined
Sep 15, 2020
Location
SoCal
TDI
2010 JSW TDI
I have a 2012 VW Golf TDI, check engine light came on a few days ago and returned both the P0401 & P2002 codes.


Thinking it's probably a cracked DPF (have some dry soot in the tailpipe, but no other issues to speak of. Fuel eco is good, revs up fine, starts fine etc.,. which im guessing wouldnt be the case if the DPF was blocked?).

How feasible is it to swap out the DPF & EGR filter at home on jackstands on my model?


Any thoughts are appreciated.

Thanks!
Very doable, others in this forum including myself have done it. EGR filter can be cleaned, no need to replace (at least not right away).
 

ApproachMedium

Veteran Member
Joined
May 30, 2022
Location
NEPA
TDI
MK6 Jetta
How do you clean just the egr filter? I have a replacement one but was hanging on to it till i do my dpf replacement
 

oilhammer

Certified Volkswagen Nut & Vendor
Joined
Dec 11, 2001
Location
outside St Louis, MO
TDI
There are just too many to list....
Cleaning the low pressure EGR tube is pointless if the DPF is bad, it'll just clog up again in short order.

But if you replace the DPF, and want to try cleaning and reusing the EGR tube, just soak the insides in some strong cleaner (we use a Zep product here that is actually a carpet cleaning agent, but it works and smells and behaves similarly to Castrol Super Clean and similar water-soluble products) and rinse it back and forth really good.

There are some gaskets required for the DPF, and I never assume the V-band clamps will be able to be reused as they sometimes don't like to come off without a fight, and you do NOT want to have to fix a leak at the turbo if it won't go back together right.
 

ApproachMedium

Veteran Member
Joined
May 30, 2022
Location
NEPA
TDI
MK6 Jetta
I know it will clog up, but right now i ONLY have one car to drive, and if i bugger this thing up pulling the DPF out to replace it, i cant get to work. Once one of the other two heaps are back home i can replace the DPF. It is on order. For now if i can clean the filter that would be nice. I have a brand new filter, but i wont install it until i have a new DPF. why waste the new part knowing it will clog?

I guess ill have to see if the clamps come off without a fight. the ones on the rest of the exhaust loosened up easily without an issue. This car hasnt seen any winters really, it came from georgia.
 

oilhammer

Certified Volkswagen Nut & Vendor
Joined
Dec 11, 2001
Location
outside St Louis, MO
TDI
There are just too many to list....
Yeah, you're brave to depend on one of those CR TDIs as an only everyday car, LOL. Best to have one of the older ones as a backup.
 

ApproachMedium

Veteran Member
Joined
May 30, 2022
Location
NEPA
TDI
MK6 Jetta
Right lol my backup has been my diesel canyon which is getting body work, the second backup is the jeep which was supposed to be fixed but the front axle seal they were supposed to replace, still leaks.

The backup backup backup is a 1988 Plymoth Reliant but i dont want that going to work. It needs a radiator.
 

oilhammer

Certified Volkswagen Nut & Vendor
Joined
Dec 11, 2001
Location
outside St Louis, MO
TDI
There are just too many to list....
You know, back in the day everyone bagged on the ChryCo K-cars (which, at the time, was essentially EVERYTHING they sold here except the trucks and the aged leftover-from-the'1960s Diplomat), but those really were not "bad" cars in terms of simplicity and reliability, really. And the '88 has the simple Holley TBI 2.2L or 2.5L most likely bolted to the relatively sturdy 3sp slushbox. No-nonsense boring but simple cars.
 

ApproachMedium

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Joined
May 30, 2022
Location
NEPA
TDI
MK6 Jetta
This car is probably one of the cheapest possible cars ive ever owned to work on. Timing belt kit, motor mounts, o2 sensor and some other doodads 42 dollars shipped. I bought it to cosmetically restore it (its one of seemingly few coupes left) some people scoff at it but the real enthusiast drivers love it. 2.2, 3 spd auto. No options but air. Full front bench, column shift. It was Lee Iacocas 4 wheel dream that saved chrysler. Ive even got all the paper work for this car since day 1. Hand written mechanics receipts!
 

oilhammer

Certified Volkswagen Nut & Vendor
Joined
Dec 11, 2001
Location
outside St Louis, MO
TDI
There are just too many to list....
The super rarest K-car based one I ever had the opportunity to drive was one of the very few Spirit R/T manual, which got a DOHC head that Maserati (at the time owned by Chrysler) designed for the 2.2L block. Total sleeper. 220hp in the late '80s in what was otherwise a boring rental sedan or something clergy drove.
 

TomJD

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 9, 2010
Location
St. Louis
TDI
2000 Jetta TDI GLS, 2015 Golf TDI
On the K-Car topic, my dad bought one new in 1986. He opted for a dealer warranty which was “too cheap to pass up.” He claims it was $25. By 25,000 both the engine and transmission had been replaced under the warranty. The AC went out. The window regulators all failed. The drivers door didn’t open. It was a regular occurrence for my sister, my dad, and I to all sit on the front bench seat and then all of us exit out the passenger door when we got to the destination.

That car was brown on brown.

He donated it at 90k to a charity and bought another one.
 

ApproachMedium

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Joined
May 30, 2022
Location
NEPA
TDI
MK6 Jetta
Id love to get one of the turbo cars and make it a sleeper.

And yea it seems to be either you had one and absolutely loved it or you had a lemon.
 

oilhammer

Certified Volkswagen Nut & Vendor
Joined
Dec 11, 2001
Location
outside St Louis, MO
TDI
There are just too many to list....
I don't really ever remember seeing much problems with them to be honest. The Mitsubishi-sourced 2.6L carburetted 4cyl was a pile of junk (the Mazda B2600s used the same engine). The 3.0L V6 also sourced from Mitsubishi was reliable (Chrysler-Holley EFI) but they all had the valve guide problem and started burning oil rapidly. Any of the fancier cars' trim stuff was often a bit sketchy (like the Dynasty or Imperial with their silly climate control system).

The turbo 2.2L SOHCs all blew head gaskets, but they were not awful bad to do. Usually the non-turbo 2.2L was bulletproof.

The 2.5L had a chain driven balance shaft setup (like the BHWs had from the factory). These would often get noisy and require a manual adjustment, as the spring tensioner was supplemented with a manual adjustable one. And if they were allowed to get too loose, they'd chuck the chain... BUT, unlike the BHW, the oil pump as not run by the balance shaft, so the engine would just continue to run along fine, with its broken chain bits laying harmlessly in pieces in the oil pan, and the engine would shake and vibrate like crazy.

The 3sp autobox was typically pretty reliable, and simple. The manuals were all OK (they even had manual Caravans!).

The very last of the K-car based stuff did eventually get the ChryCo pushrod V6 as an option on some models (3.3L and a 3.8L), which were not awful engines BUT the all got bolted to the new electronic 4sp 41TE automatic, and THAT was one of the biggest hunks of garbage unleashed on the automotive world ever. But those were only in the minivans (optional), in the middle sized cars like the Spirit (optional) the bigger fancier stretched (Imperial, Fifth Avenue, etc.) cars may have had it as standard. The smaller cars like the LeBaron, Shadow, Lancer, Daytona, etc. never got the bigger pushrod V6s although some did get cursed with the 41TE transmission as it could be gotten behind the Mitsubishi 3.0L V6.
 

ApproachMedium

Veteran Member
Joined
May 30, 2022
Location
NEPA
TDI
MK6 Jetta
I think that was the problem. Those who ended up with the 2.6 had alot of problems. the 2.2 was fairly, easy going. I am curious if an MLS gasket and some better head bolts added would solve the turbo problem. Ive seen a few of them for sale in the K car club but didnt hear of the problems yet (maybe they all know and im new and i do not).

I have the 3 spd auto no OD. It seems to just run thru the gears real fast and do its thing. Gonna change all the fluids and gaskets out on that soon. Its funny how stuff like that balance shaft chain could break and it still runs. Just like the non interference 2.2L, if the timing belt breaks the car just stops running. Things were different back then.

My parents had a 98 caravan with the 3.3. It was alright. It ran good, we drove that SOB everywhere. Put alot of miles on it. Sold it to their neighbors in FL. I have seen the K car vans with manuals. Manual with a turbo would be wild!
 

spaktacular

Member
Joined
Jan 20, 2020
Location
SW CT
TDI
2011 JSW, 6 stick
Question for folks on this. Currently have a 2011 JSW TDI, 6 MT. Bought at 66K from a used dealer, after they had purchased the car from an auction post-fix. From what I piece together, I believe the NOX cat converter would have been replaced as part of the fix, but the DPF would be original. Which brings me to current, and my question.

Sitting at 165K. It threw a MIL about 3 or 4 weeks ago, essentially the first time other than the P2015 back around 80K. Checked, and had P2002. Yes, there's soot in the tailpipe, and has been trace for a while before that. Also have noticed mild 'diesel' smell on warm up at the start of the day. Over the 3 or 4 weeks, the P401 code has also appeared. I'm 99% sure it's going to need the DPF replaced, which I'm fine with. The question for me, at this point, is not whether to delete - if it's lasted 160K as I suspect, that's well beyond what I anticipated. I just am looking for feedback on whether to go with the remanufactured DPF from VW (about $925), the reman from IDParts (about the same on sale this week), or the 'new' DPF from VW (about $1200). They all carry a $700 core charge, so that's irrelevant.

Thanks in advance for any feedback.
 

spaktacular

Member
Joined
Jan 20, 2020
Location
SW CT
TDI
2011 JSW, 6 stick
I think that was the problem. Those who ended up with the 2.6 had alot of problems. the 2.2 was fairly, easy going. I am curious if an MLS gasket and some better head bolts added would solve the turbo problem. Ive seen a few of them for sale in the K car club but didnt hear of the problems yet (maybe they all know and im new and i do not).

I have the 3 spd auto no OD. It seems to just run thru the gears real fast and do its thing. Gonna change all the fluids and gaskets out on that soon. Its funny how stuff like that balance shaft chain could break and it still runs. Just like the non interference 2.2L, if the timing belt breaks the car just stops running. Things were different back then.

My parents had a 98 caravan with the 3.3. It was alright. It ran good, we drove that SOB everywhere. Put alot of miles on it. Sold it to their neighbors in FL. I have seen the K car vans with manuals. Manual with a turbo would be wild!
Years ago, I had a 74 Mercury Capri with a 2.0 inline 4, OHC engine. I was young - still a teenager - and let my sister use the car for the summer. She calls one day, it's broken down on the side of the road....virtually no shoulder on that stretch of road, either. I go pick her up, take a look...camshaft not moving. Timing belt broke. Went down the street to the parts store, bought a belt, installed it on the side of the road in an hour, away we go.

Yes, cars were much simpler back then. And also broke down a whole lot more often!
 

ApproachMedium

Veteran Member
Joined
May 30, 2022
Location
NEPA
TDI
MK6 Jetta
I just replaced my unit with a new VW one from ID parts. It was hell to replace, but its done. So far so good. I think next time it comes out, if it doesnt last long, is a delete. WHAT HELL to get this thing out of the car!!!
 

spaktacular

Member
Joined
Jan 20, 2020
Location
SW CT
TDI
2011 JSW, 6 stick
I just replaced my unit with a new VW one from ID parts. It was hell to replace, but its done. So far so good. I think next time it comes out, if it doesnt last long, is a delete. WHAT HELL to get this thing out of the car!!!
Curious if you lowered/removed the subframe or not;
How many miles did you have on the car;

Anything else done while you were in there?

I'm assembling the parts/knowledge and will replace mine sometime before the July 4th holiday. As I said elsewhere, there's 165,000 on the car now. It's really hard to determine exactly, but from what I can find scouring the interwebs, it would appear that this is the original DPF.
 

ApproachMedium

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Joined
May 30, 2022
Location
NEPA
TDI
MK6 Jetta
i currently have about 133k? I bought the car with 112k but it was a salvage car, so VW refused any and all warranties. The DPF was presumed bad when i got the car, even though it was marked OK on the outside of the case lol (assumed during the Dieselgate mods. You will need a lift to do this, unless you want to completely kill yourself. I could not see doing this without having my own lift at home, or some way to get the car way up off the ground.

To replace the unit i tried to see how far i could go without removing the passenger half shaft, it must come out. I did not need to do anything to my subframe. If i ever have to do this again id love to just lower the subframe engine and trans together. Anyhow, Remove your half shaft first. I removed the bolts holding it to the trans first, they are very tight and will need a triple square and breaker bar. I then unbolted the lower ball joint from lower control arm. Removed caliper and rotor for less weight and easier to manuver the steering knuckle. Removed axle bolt. Removed half shaft completely from car.

Unplug all the sensors on top and bottom. You CAN NOT remove any sensors from the DPF with it in the car except MAYBE the upper NOX sensor and the post DPF EGT sensor. There is a sensor above the fuel lines thats bolted to a metal bracket, its a delta sensor for the DPF. Instead of removing the lines, just unplug the data cable and remove from the bracket. There will be another one like this right at the top of the back of the engine between the engine and DPF< its directly behind the small round breather cap for the PCV system. Unsnap all the heat shields. the one on this sensor will not come off completely but must be opened to remove. Unplug, unbolt and remove one of the 2 lines off the sensor. One line you will see goes to the DPF the other to the turbo or EGR cooler. I think there are 3 plugs to disconnect on the driver side of the firewall that go behind the DPF. 1 NoX sensor, and 2 EGT sensors. All this comes off.

Under the car you need to unplug the post DPF EGT sensor, its plugged in by the exhaust flap. Unplug all 3 things here. The wire for the EGT sensor runs up the tunnel to the firewall and to the DPF. pull that cable back. I removed my post DPF cat. It really makes this job alot easier. All of the v band camps, turbo, the cat etc hopefully they come off ok. Mine came off no problem, no rust. Once you loosen the bolt up, use a screwdriver and hammer to tap them off the flanges and break them free. Be careful, Once the ones for the cat are loose, it will fall right out. To release the DPF theres 2 nuts on the bottom u access from the bottom, and 1 bolt up top below that sensor thats on the bracket by the fuel lines. Remove all 3. It wont fall out.

Once everything is loose, disconnected and feels like its ready to go lift the dpf off the studs on the egr cooler, carefully pull it down. You can remove the bracket on the lower part of the DPF now that its easier to reach. The DPF will need to get rotated 180 degrees as it comes down, it comes out of the tunnel thru the subframe on its back side. Before you pull it thru the tunnel make sure the heat shielding is all pushed up against the car body as close as it can or as i found out the hard way, the DPF will NOT fit thru.

Once the unit is out and on the floor, you can remove the upper heat shield from the DPF, remove all the sensors. YOU MUST USE A LINE WRENCH. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO REMOVE ANY OF THE ACCESSORIES WITHOUT A LINE WRENCH, YOU WILL STRIP THE THREADS ASK ME HOW I KNOW. (Did this on my Canyon diesel). Install is the reverse of removal. Once everything is installed and car is test run you can reset the particle trap count in VCDS. VERY IMPORTANT. Or the car will not regen correctly, and you may ruin your new DPF.

I drive alot for work, installed mine 3 days ago and already have a few hundred miles on it with no issues. Good luck.
 
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