Overdue for a hydraulic flush

[ericas_beetle]

I've been procrastinating on this since before Covid, because I've had another project car apart in my tiny garage, but I dassn't wait much longer. There is a DIY shop across town with lifts so I think I'll try and do it over there. I've done flushes on other cars but never Beetle. I did watch my old mechanic do it once, but he unfortunately moved away.

I want to make sure I bring everything I'll need so I'm not bumming anything. I have both a Motive Power Bleed and a Mityvac, so I can either push or pull, whichever is better? What other tools are essential or nice to have? Will the wheels need to come off?

IIRC, he connected the computer and cycled the ABS while bleeding. Is this easily done via Vag-Com? Is there a specific order for the 5 bleed points to ensure a full bleed? Any pointers or warnings for me? Anything else I should plan on doing whilst there?

Thanks!

 

[oilhammer]

I always time a brake fluid flush with a normal PM service, so the wheels are off for rotation anyway. Some cars are more difficult to access the bleeders than others.

We have a BG pressure bleeder here, works OK, but I also run the ABS Basic Settings and Output Tests to "exercise" all the valves and such, and purge new fluid through the unit.

 

[hskrdu]

I take the wheels off because it improves access and visibility (and is quick and easy). I would vote for the Motive over the Mityvac, but I know some members prefer otherwise- I'm just used to filling the master reservoir (not the Motive) and pushing fluid, which is slower but familiar. The order of bleed does change in the VW references based on year, so I'd search for the threads which list multiple years. On my '03, it basically starts furthest from the brake fluid reservoir and moves one corner closer each time. Although the references will (usually) list only one size to loosen up the bleed valves at the calipers, I've run into some valves that are +1 size, so have access to some extra metric wrenches. I have a bleeder wrench that picked up after someone here suggested it, but I haven't used it yet- there's a thread here somewhere! Otherwise, a 17mm for wheel bolts, a receptacle for brake fluid, some clear tubing to attach to the bleeder valves, maybe some cleaner or brushes or compressed air to clean off the calipers, enough correct brake fluid, a narrow funnel (if needed) for adding fluid to the reservoir, and some rags/paper towel. Oh, and I would bleed at the clutch at the same time you are doing the rest of the calipers- Owners often miss this one.

As for VCDS (vag-com), and ABS we have several write-ups on it, and Ross Tech / Youtube has some good documentation.

When I do brake fluid, I also remove the wheel-well liner, clean out any accumulated debris, and then coat the entire area with Fluid Film. Of course, you'll be checking pads and rotors and such. I also check all the body plugs, which start getting loose after 20 years.

No warnings other than watching out for BF on the paint, and to avoid letting air into the system. A few videos and you can knock out the Beetle in 90 minutes or less.

 

[ericas_beetle]

I'm just used to filling the master reservoir (not the Motive) and pushing fluid, which is slower but familiar

I do the same, mainly because dumping it into the huge Motive bottle makes waste and requires cleanup unless you're a professional which I am not. Easy to have the master run dry though if you aren't careful. I have the Motive 0100 Euro cap for my Jag. I assume it's the same cap for VW?

On my '03, it basically starts furthest from the brake fluid reservoir and moves one corner closer each time.

Weird I wonder why it would change. Mine is 2000, assuming that they're the same, that means, RR, LR, RF, LF, clutch?

Thanks for the tips!

 

[hskrdu]

I do the same, mainly because dumping it into the huge Motive bottle makes waste and requires cleanup unless you're a professional which I am not. Easy to have the master run dry though if you aren't careful. I have the Motive 0100 Euro cap for my Jag. I assume it's the same cap for VW?
Weird I wonder why it would change. Mine is 2000, assuming that they're the same, that means, RR, LR, RF, LF, clutch?
Thanks for the tips!

I'm not sure which Motive cap number it is- they used to be color coded, I think. Also not sure why the bleed sequence varies, but you can find it sprinkled in many old threads.

 

[STDOUBT]

Sequence depends on which ABS unit you have.
Not sure it matters a whole lot, but...
Another thing is the clutch reservoir should be pushed out first, before bleeding the calipers regardless.
And don't go over 14 PSI with the pressure bleeding.

 

[Nuje]

On my '03, it basically starts furthest from the brake fluid reservoir and moves one corner closer each time.

Are you sure about that? Every 2002 and 2003 I've seen has the MK60 which specs (as pointed out above) bleeding from closest (clutch), then LF to furthest away (RR).

 

[oilhammer]

I don't think the sequence is as important when you are just doing a periodic fluid change. It's more an issue if you have REPLACED a component and the system needs to be purged of air.

 

[hskrdu]

Are you sure about that? Every 2002 and 2003 I've seen has the MK60 which specs (as pointed out above) bleeding from closest (clutch), then LF to furthest away (RR).

I'm rarely sure of anything in this realm without looking at the references! The reference (above) doesn't spec bleeding as you listed, but says clutch then LR, RF, LF, RR. Am I reading it wrong? I do what I suggested to the OP: check ahead of time. Of course, even looking at many of our old threads the suggested sequence varies, but having the paper Bentley helps.

 

[ericas_beetle]

Another thing is the clutch reservoir should be pushed out first, before bleeding the calipers regardless.

Sorry not sure what you mean there. I would normally suck out the old fluid from the reservoir before adding new fluid to avoid a lot of blending. Is that what you mean?

If I'm understanding the first paragraph correctly, once I start the tool and navigate to the right section it should call out the bleed sequencer for me?

 

[ericas_beetle]

I've been going through old posts and am u fortunately not getting warm fuzzies. It seems like a lot of people are reporting that pressure alone can't push new fluid through the rears if it's too old. I think I'm giving up on this before trying. No sense wasting money on a bay since I'll be missing the most important tool, a helper. Back to plan B, I think, it's 25 years old, leave it be. If I had my own free space I'd give it a whirl, but this seems like a recipe for disaster.

 

[oilhammer]

Gravity bleeding, albeit slow, will work too. The pressure bleeder just speeds up the process. It sounds like you are overthinking this.

 

[ericas_beetle]

Gravity bleeding, albeit slow, will work too. The pressure bleeder just speeds up the process. It sounds like you are overthinking this.

I'm just afraid of getting into a bind 15 miles from home then needing a tow, and being down a car. I currently have a car in pieces in my garage. I'm going to focus for now on getting it back together and sold. Once that's done I'll circle back to PM on Beetle and have space to work on it.

 

[hskrdu]

Agree with OH: Don't overthink it. It's not hard, and as long as the main reservoir doesn't empty, you'll be fine. I switched to a Motive over a decade ago to care for 4 TDIs, and never had a problem pushing fluid through to all bleeder valves. I use really low pressure (10psi?) and it's slow, but fine. I don't recall ever removing old fluid from the master reservoir, but I probably end up using more fluid than is needed out of an attempt to get rid of any old fluid. The only other problem I've run into is with a bleeder valve, and I think now I have a spare on hand.

 

[ericas_beetle]

Thanks for the encouragement. It's not that I don't think I can do it. I'm sure I can. I just think it may end up being more involved than a couple hours. The brakes haven't been touched in about 8 years. I don't think the flex lines have ever been changed despite it having two pad/rotor swaps. Even though I don't have a lift at home I think I'd feel safer doing it in my garage so it's just going to have to wait. I probably have 100 hours of work remaining on the car that's in pieces and maybe 4 months of comfortable weather in TX annually (which is why it's been apart for 3 years).