Oven cleaner for vanes with turbo off car -- but without separating turbine housing? Possible?

[Randomhomelesstdibeetlegu]

Subject says it. Can I flood the turbine with oven cleaner or do it through the EGR port to clean vane gunk out before mounting?

Blow it out with compressed air or rinse out then blow out?

I ask as I picked up a used rusty turbo that seems decent enough to clean up and run for a while. I don't want to separate the turbine housing as it will probably lead to many snapped bolts and all.

 

[Windex]

Subject says it. Can I flood the turbine with oven cleaner or do it through the EGR port to clean vane gunk out before mounting?

Blow it out with compressed air or rinse out then blow out?

I ask as I picked up a used rusty turbo that seems decent enough to clean up and run for a while. I don't want to separate the turbine housing as it will probably lead to many snapped bolts and all.

It works well enough. Not as good as disassembly, but good enough. The key is to use the vnt with brisk acceleration to keep the vanes working.

Also depends on the mechanical condition of the vanes, pivots and the actuating ring, which can only be assessed by taking it apart.

 

[Seatman]

I found the oven cleaner doesn't really get right into where it's needed. Seems to lubricate it a bit more than anything.

Pulled one apart after trying it.

I used to just work the vnt till it moved free then ragged the car to get it proper hot instead.

 

[Randomhomelesstdibeetlegu]

Yeah this is off car. I had a catastrophic turbo failure and simply can't afford a reman or new unit.

 

[tgray]

If the vanes move freely then it is good to go. If not get a torch and work the bolts out after heated red hot. If they break just drill them out and re-tap with 1/4 x 20 and use grade 8.
I have had good service with the cartridge replacements but do not ever go with the cheap china junk. I also have had good service with used good working turbos if you are on a tight budget. Turbos that have been treated right last a long time. I have found anything short of taking them apart when they are sticking is just "kicking the can" down the road a little farther. Fix it right now or pull it out later and wonder why you wasted time. I may have a good used cartridge and a separate manifold base you can put the cartridge in from your rusted one if bolts break. I will sell cheap and not too far from Chicago. PM me if interested. It sounds like you have enough parts to make something work right with what you already have. If it is just a little rusty and the actuator breaks free and smooth you may be good to go. The real problem is when the inner ring gets rust behind it and jambs up the vanes. Then you need to pull it apart.

 

[Tdijarhead]

If you have the turbo off the car pull it apart and clean it properly. Getting it off the car is the hard part, disassembly is much easier. Just pay attention to how it comes apart, there is a diy it the 101 section and several tutorials at you tube university.

 

[Seatman]

Yeah this is off car. I had a catastrophic turbo failure and simply can't afford a reman or new unit.

If nothing else just work the vnt lever, if it's crusty you'll hear it. As long as it's free it should clean up with good runs. Takes a bit of heat to really burn the crap out.

 

[Randomhomelesstdibeetlegu]

Appreciate it. See username. Broke is broke financially.

A fellow TDIclub guy hooked me up decent with 2 used turbos one seems especially clean in the compressor housing and the VNT lever does move. I have to use a vacuum pump to see how and when it opens and finishes make sure it is the 3/5-18" HG fully open.

I just want to make sure it doesn't stick as that's what did my last turbo in. It was a little sticky I believe and it stuck then over boosted and blew apart. See other thread

 

[Randomhomelesstdibeetlegu]

Also... I try not being stereotypical cheap TDI guy.... But personal circumstances and this economy force it.

 

[Mongler98]

Also... I try not being stereotypical cheap TDI guy.... But personal circumstances and this economy force it.

I've been there. It gets better.
When you can... treat her with OEM and quality parts and you will have a happy car for a long time.

 

[Randomhomelesstdibeetlegu]

There's a **** ton of good OEM or OEM eq in this ugly junker beetle. It's really a "sleeper" in that sense. Bosch 11mm OEM reman pump, DLC 764 from DBW, amc stock cam and INA lifters.

Both the turbos are Midwest rusty the cleaner one appears to have had the CHRA out or swapped as it has fresh bolts save one. All broke free easy with a little PB blaster. It was missing a stud so I made a downpipe stud in the other turbo glow and pop, removed it and installed it in the turbine housing of the cleaner unit.

I'm feeling froggy enough I may radius and funnel the compressor inlet and port the outlet out a bunch.

Somewhere 10 years ago I had a 230whp stock turbo 1.8T GTi on E85 that appeared in eurotuner at an NGP dyno day.

I'm pretty decent with the autos when the brain works -- that said I'm retarded autoimmune wise (IT EATS MY BRAIN) and waiting on SSDI.

 

[Seatman]

Also... I try not being stereotypical cheap TDI guy.... But personal circumstances and this economy force it.

Been there myself, my turbo just went too but I couldn't afford a new one, luckily we have some good aftermarket stuff over here in the UK so I got a new melet cartridge instead then used my old housings.
Ideally a complete turbo would've been good as there's a bit of wear in the exhaust side due to the turbine wheel breaking off but it cost a lot more. Just makes it a little less efficient.