Opinions please - Brakes

[nkgagne]

Hi guys, the time to replace the brakes has come again on the 06 Golf (Mk4)
They've had a bad pulsation for some time, and now the rotors are starting to rust to oblivion on the low-spots, and the pads are all but history. (Stick a fork in 'em!) All 4 corners.

I am HARD on the brakes. What pads & rotors do you recommend for best durability with good bite and resistance to warping? Also, good cold weather behaviour is best; not super-grabby. (TL;DR - stop here)

I have metallic pads on there now, and up until this winter (read: until worn out), they were super grabby and noisy when cold, and on ice I couldn't get enough heat in to stop this (I literally would left-foot brake dab a lot in winter so as to put some heat into the pads and get rid of the grabby engagement, but it wasn't easy to keep them warmed up in traffic in minus weather, and ice precludes enough speed to generate heat). I think the rotors are Zimmerman but don't quote me on that. The rears are potato chips, but I had a sticking parking brake for part of that, in their defence. The fronts have started to delaminate in a weird pattern too, and pad contact looks poor. Also my wear sensor is flapping in the breeze. Not sure what happened there, but I tied it out of harm's way.

Why am I so hard on them? I have an entirely in-town commute, and then add in others' desire to suck hard at driving, my tendency to repeatedly catch just-too-d*mn-yellow traffic lights (and I don't run reds!), and also my tendency to try to make the best possible time without speeding like hell, so accelerating, braking and cornering fast, just with a lower top speed. (There's no "Acceleration" limit, right?! Only a "Speed" limit.) Their one savings is that I won't run up to an already red light or the back of a traffic queue and slam on the brakes, because you gain nothing. But I don't play around when there's time to be made, especially if running late (more than I care to admit).

 

[Jetta_Pilot]

I had bought disk pads from "Autozone" a few years ago in Mexico. Best pads I ever had. NONE of the black crap on the front wheels.

Link for Autozone USA, maybe Autozone Canada has them too: http://www.autozone.com/landing/page.jsp?name=duralast-gold-brakes

I already miss them on my new 2015 Passat, I get the black crap on the wheels again.

 

[nucklehead]

Hmm. I owned a 32' diesel pusher motorhome with a turbocharged 5.9ci Cummins inline 6. It had disc front and rear brakes which worked very good. But the best part was the engine brake - this was a vacuum operated valve that shut the exhaust flow when it sensed zero accelerator input - the 6 speed Allison transmission would automatically downshift as the engine dropped below 1900rpm's. Braking was expressed in horse power for its effectivity - I think that was somewhere around 180hp - the engine was a 95 model - 8 valve and manual injector pump rated for 225hp and 525 torque. The engine brake was very effective. I could let off the accelerator just as I hit the off ramp (about 400') at about 60-65mph and the engine brake would engage - it slowed the motorhome down enough that I only had to use the foot brake for the last 30' or so. It also would hold speed to 60mph going down a mountain pass - and we have very steep passes in Washington State. I was continually impressed with it. The engine brake is different than the Jake (Jacobs) Brake which are much more effective but also much louder than the engine brake. I used to drive 18 wheelers in my younger days - mostly 335 and 350hp Cummins motors - the Jake Brake is more effective but is too loud for a motorhome. The engine brake had a switch on the dash and was labeled Jacobs Engine Brake. It was a pain in slow stop and go traffic so I turned it off until the traffic cleared out.

I have no idea whether anyone makes an engine brake for our TDI cars but it might be worth looking into.

 

[DubFamily]

I've had excellent results with these guys: http://brakeperformance.com/all-products.php

Products are really top notch and price can't be beat. I have them on my MKV.5 GTI and love them.

 

[imo000]

Running the yellow is illegal too.

As for brakes, get quality brand rotors if you don't want them to rust so fast. Pad life will depend on what you want. Durability or stopping power?

 

[Tdi Kick]

Opinion...?

...dont waste your time on the stock tdi brakes.

if truly you are hard on the brakes, they WILL pulse again no matter what brand/type/style/fairydust/voodoo-incantation stock size you put on. BTDT and we arent hard on the Wifey's Golf.

Upgrade to the VR6/1.8t setup and never look back.



Cheers

 

[dmoonen]

Should put these bad boys in

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[nkgagne]

...dont waste your time on the stock tdi brakes.
(snip)
Upgrade to the VR6/1.8t setup and never look back.

I'd been considering this, but was worried about needing bigger wheels.
I did a bit of searching, and it appears the 15" wheels will fit fine.
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?p=4997677#post4997677

I wonder how cheaply the 1.8T parts can be obtained?

 

[Johhny04]

I'd been considering this, but was worried about needing bigger wheels.
I did a bit of searching, and it appears the 15" wheels will fit fine.
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?p=4997677#post4997677

I wonder how cheaply the 1.8T parts can be obtained?

local junk yards should have the spindles and carriers widely available or call The Source and he should definitely have 1.8T or VR6 components available.

 

[dmoonen]

Das parts and Next Generation have been stripping cars and some rarer (GLI, GTI, 20th, 337) ones like mad lately.

 

[nkgagne]

On second thought I don't know if I want to invest that much $$& and energy this go round. Brakes happen every few years anyway. Probably I'll just do the TDI set again and upgrade later on. The warping is annoying, but not a huge issue. I'm more concerned about them being dangerously worn and the rotors looking about to disappear into dust. These ones have been warped for at least a year, and I haven't been all that bothered (obviously, because they're still there).

 

[Tdi Kick]

cost?

Taking pads and rotors OUT of the equation (you'd buy them anyway for stockers, the price for the bigger stuff isnt any more expensive) there really isnt that much to the cost: only extras I bought were bearings and abs sensors. One bearing was whining to be changed anyway, and one abs sensor tossed an intermittent code.

Anywho, I bought the front spindles (complete, he just popped the LBJ and the strut tops) for 120. Another guy had a COMPLETE front subframe he wanted 100 bux for.

Deals can be had.

And yes, these are the largest mk4 brakes that will fit under a 15" wheel. Thats another plus.

Cheers

 

[nkgagne]

Taking pads and rotors OUT of the equation (you'd buy them anyway for stockers, the price for the bigger stuff isnt any more expensive) there really isnt that much to the cost: only extras I bought were bearings and abs sensors.
Anywho, I bought the front spindles (complete, he just popped the LBJ and the strut tops) for 120. Another guy had a COMPLETE front subframe he wanted 100 bux for.

Okay, but $120 right now is more than a month's diesel bill. I realize I'm being super cheap, but I have no choice with where I stand financially... Money is tight! I just had to replace the *@#% turbo and the turbo to pancake hose just bit the dust too, which is nasty when money is already tight.

Also, I have found that the 1.8/VR6 pads & rotors online do seem to command a (nominal) premium (although long term, they might be longer-wearing, I have to try to maximize cashflow in the here & now).

 

[tassolake]

NK if you are interested I have brand new 312mm front rotors for the MK5 sitting in the garage. My gift to you, just get them out of the garage (ideally you will take the stock springs for all four corners at the same time, to really save me some space). The 312mm are larger than stock, so you will need different caliper brackets.

Let me know.

 

[TQOOOO]

.NK if you are interested I have brand new 312mm front rotors for the MK5 sitting in the garage.

MK5 has 5x112 bolt pattern, MK4 - 5x100

 

[tassolake]

NK I'm assuming your 2006 has 5x112, these rotors are also 5x112

 

[nkgagne]

Nope, 06 Golf is mk4. 5x100

 

[imo000]

Okay, but $120 right now is more than a month's diesel bill. I realize I'm being super cheap, but I have no choice with where I stand financially... Money is tight! I just had to replace the *@#% turbo and the turbo to pancake hose just bit the dust too, which is nasty when money is already tight.
Also, I have found that the 1.8/VR6 pads & rotors online do seem to command a (nominal) premium (although long term, they might be longer-wearing, I have to try to maximize cashflow in the here & now).

If money is tight, just get a good set of used pads.

 

[jptbay]

Rotors - Zimmerman, Brembo, or ATE. All with rust coating.
Pads - Any premium ceramic.
Quality install - Buff hub face to shiny bare metal. Check hub run out with dial indicator - No more than .004". Clean and dress with a file if necessary pad slide areas and pad contact areas on caliper. Use quality brake pin slide lube. Drive easy for the first 100km, avoiding hard braking. Aggressive pad bedding procedures are hogwash. It just takes some time for pad material to transfer into rotor metal matrix.

Your pulsation could easily be worn control arm rear bushings as well. Stock ones don't last long. Upgrade to solid rubber bushing from Audi TT.

 

[Jetta_Pilot]

Nope, 06 Golf is mk4. 5x100

I believe that 5x100 and 5x112 are the same. I have spacers I am selling and on all four of them both those numbers are embossed into them. The spacers were on my 2002 Jetta.

 

[nkgagne]

If money is tight, just get a good set of used pads.

Except the rotors are almost completely gone. Good pads and crap rotors do not a good combo make.

 

[nkgagne]

I believe that 5x100 and 5x112 are the same. I have spacers I am selling and on all four of them both those numbers are embossed into them. The spacers were on my 2002 Jetta.

100mm and 112mm is definitely a different measurement. Last I looked at a ruler, in any event.

 

[imo000]

Except the rotors are almost completely gone. Good pads and crap rotors do not a good combo make.

Completely gone it what way?

 

[P2B]

I believe that 5x100 and 5x112 are the same. I have spacers I am selling and on all four of them both those numbers are embossed into them. The spacers were on my 2002 Jetta.

I assume your spacers have 10 holes in each one, so as to fit both 5x100 and 5x112 hubs.

Rotors are normally made to fit one hub size only.

Simon

 

[imo000]

Maybe in Mexico a 5x100 and a 5x112 are the same thing.

 

[nkgagne]

Completely gone it what way?

(Rotors) Er, severely rusted, almost to the point of flying apart (poor pad contact), warped/uneven, just no good.

 

[imo000]

Get a cheap new set of rotors and pads then if money is tight. I don't know what else to suggest in your case.

 

[Jetta_Pilot]

If your money is tight, rear rotors and ceramic pads for about Cdn $ 106.00 delivered to you from a seller on eBay in Scarborough:

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/REAR-LEFT-RIGHT-DISC-BRAKE-ROTOR-CERAMIC-PADS-VW-JETTA-1999-2006-34144-/191898336394?fits=Year%3A2006%7CModel%3AGolf&hash=item2cae083c8a:g:ghYAAOSw3YNXYrSG&vxp=mtr

Same seller for front rotors and ceramic pads about Cdn $ 133.00 delivered to you:

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/FRONT-LEFT-R...ash=item4b01dc8241:g:8TQAAOSwNuxXYrQa&vxp=mtr

Sometimes, if you want something quicker you may be able to arrange for a pick-up from the seller in person.

 

[nkgagne]

If your money is tight, rear rotors and ceramic pads for about Cdn $ 106.00 delivered to you from a seller on eBay in Scarborough:

link

Same seller for front rotors and ceramic pads about Cdn $ 133.00 delivered to you:

link

Sometimes, if you want something quicker you may be able to arrange for a pick-up from the seller in person.

That's AWESOME, thanks. Now to try and remember my eBay & Paypal passwords...

 

[Windex]

when you install those, make sure that the hub is nice and clean, as well as the mating face on the wheel. You want to make sure that the rotor seats flush and true with the hub so that you don't introduce any more sources of vibration.

Make sure that the pad sliding surfaces are good and clean, and that the slider bushings are free too - so that the pads don't stick and cause more warpage.