Ongoing intermittent crank issue on my 2005 Passat.

stefhelm

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 16, 2004
Location
Calgary, AB
TDI
2005 Passat Wagon
Hi all,
I know there are a ton of threads on this. I have read a ton of them. Perhaps all of them. Haha. I'd appreciate if some had some insight here. It's intermittent and have had no luck with a shop reproducing at this point.

Car is a 2005 Passat TDI. Issue is a very long crank, only when warm (like an hour after shutting down a hot engine). Its a consistent crank. It does not seem slow and no sputtering or sound of just some of the cylinders firing. Just cranking like no fuel. Sometimes to the point that the "stop" warning pops up on dash, but will always eventually fire. Cold starts are flawless. I don't think it's ever hesitated more than a crank or two on a cold start. This has been going on for a long time, but I've been putting up with it as since Covid, I don't drive a heck of a lot. I've done a bunch of things over last year or two with no improvement. Throwing some parts at it since the issue is intermittent and hard to pinpoint.

I have:
-done injector purge/clean. Injector stabilization values seem fine.
-checked timing and fine.
-replaced crank sensor with new part.
-replaced cam sensor with used part.
-tandem pump was leaking so having to remove it anyway, I replaced it with new.
-EGR - I have a few of these. All used, but no change when I swap them.
-anti-shutter is not stuck. I have had start issue with intake pipe off and felt it was open. I have also tried second used ASV.
-basic service stuff like fuel and air filters.
-lift pump (was pretty sure this was not it but got a new aftermarket one at a good price).
-replaced lift pump relay.
-dont expect glow plug issues since this is a warm engine.
-temp sensor looks good when I'm looking. Again, not sure this would cause a warm start issue anyways.
-should effect start but charge hoses are all good. I pressure tested them.
-should not effect start, but turbo was replaced during the course of this issue existing (because it died)
-other fun facts - BSM is gear drive, has 5 speed swap, runs a Malone stage 1.5 (tune has been there since 90,000km... Long before this issue, so not a suspect).

In general, once running, car pulls, idles, drives really well. There is no symptoms after the starting. Drives great for 320,000km, to be honest.

There are no codes when scanned.

So what's left here? I have not pulled the cam cover since my last timing belt change a long while back. The cam would have about 210,000km. I'm not hearing any popping or performance issue relaxing to worn cam, but maybe something there? How about injection? Is there anything there that could act up (in my mind, I'm thinking all 4 injectors would not act up together and I'd get a few cylinders firing, but could be off base there). I don't want to pop the cam cover without good reason the stupid covers don't like to re-seal.

Also noticing that there is not heaps of smoke when it does fire. Like on a cold winter morning, I've had it crank and crank do to cold, and when it fires, there is a ton of smoke. I don't see that here. Like I just tested it and had a bad start in a closed garage and it was no big deal with smoke. Maybe fueling, but both pumps are new. Is there something else that could stop fuel flow? (But the drive totally fine with no power loss once started?)

I see the starter as a common recommendation for a long crank. If someone can vouch for that, that is helpful. I really don't see that as is is turning over plenty fast in my mind. It does not sound like it's working hard to turn over.

So if you made it this far, thanks for reading. I'd love to hear any ideas beyond what I've already tried.

Thanks a bunch!
 
Last edited:

zzdiesel

Veteran Member
Joined
Dec 10, 2010
Location
sask. mostly now Wa.
TDI
05 passat tdi Geared BSM and Bewcam 2nd 2005 deleted ,converted and bew cam stage 2 Malone3 tune.
What about the T valve on top of the fuel filter. Seems like you have changed everything else.
 

oilhammer

Certified Volkswagen Nut & Vendor
Joined
Dec 11, 2001
Location
outside St Louis, MO
TDI
There are just too many to list....
I assume this has been happening long enough that several tanks of fuel have gone through, and you've not added anything?

I would look at the engine data when it is hot, and see if the ECU's coolant temp and fuel temp values are what they should be.

I had a customer's BHW do exactly this, started perfect when cold, but after a hot soak of maybe 20+ minutes, it would have an epic long crank time. Turns out she put a bunch of anti-gel in the tank.... and by bunch I mean about 150 gallons worth of the stuff. Once we got that purged out, and a fresh tank of untainted #2 diesel in it, it was fine again.
 

stefhelm

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 16, 2004
Location
Calgary, AB
TDI
2005 Passat Wagon
Hey guys, thanks for your replies.

The T on the filter, yup, it has been replaced with a new OEM one.

Fuel, yeah this has been going on for probably 2 years. Since the car does still start, I've just been sucking it up and testing/trying things when I have time. So lots of fuel both with and without additives (the liquimoly stuff, if I use it).

Every time I have looked at the fuel and coolant sensors, the are reading correctly. Not to say they don't bump out of spec, but they have not while I've been connected with vag-com or OBDeleven.

Hah - no, I'm not adding THAT much additive. I use the small liquimoly bottles occasionally. But even that has not been done in quite some time.

So here are some updates:
I REALLY think I'm getting no fuel through the injectors. Like none at all. Sitting in my garage with the door closed (not suicidal - just was cold out), and was able to catch in in a bad mood cranking forever, and then it fired up. I have a pretty sensitive smoke/CO2 detector in there and there was not enough of a puff of smoke to even make it angry. In comparison, if I had a long crank to to cold weather (-20c or something), it would crank a long time, and then disappear in a haze when it fired as there lots of fuel to burn off. I dont get that here. Also, audibly (not super scientific), I would say it SOUNDS exactly the same with the injector harness totally disconnected (although I will get a code when I do this). Point is, it there is no sign of a detonation, stumble, anything when it is cranking. There is nothing, and then it will catch and start

Other weird thing that is now pointing to electrical gremlins... When I pulled and replaced that injector harness, I immediately started getting a CEL for glow plugs. 3 of them. And it was consistent (I cleared the codes maybe 3 times and they came back when I restarted the engine). I shot the injector connection with electrical cleaner and res-seated, and now no CEL. Is there a connection here? Or is this a matter of my hands back there wiggling something. The glow plugs are not connected to the injector harness....
 

Windex

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Apr 1, 2006
Location
Cambridge
TDI
05 B5V 01E FRF
Get back to some basics.

Lift relay and pump replaced... Have you verified fuel flow at the fuel filter connection when the pump primes?

Have you checked your compression hot?

If this were my car and the two items above check out, my next step would be to remove the Glowplugs and crank the engine with them out. I would look for fuel misting out the GP holes (good ventilation please).

If misting fuel reinstall GPs and see if she starts. If no mist, tandem pump is suspect, and I would replace it, even though you have already done this. Also verify fuel flow from the lift pump all the way to the supply line to the tandem pump.

I could see the harness in the head as a potential culprit as well (heat making connections flakey), but not likely all four injectors at once, and also not t likely without codes setting.
 

stefhelm

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 16, 2004
Location
Calgary, AB
TDI
2005 Passat Wagon
I put a pressure gauges inline at the filter for a few weeks. Looks like I have pressure when I turn the key.

Compression, no. I have not checked. I would expect I would hear something try to fire in at least one of the cylinders if I was loosing some compression, but I could be totally wrong there. I don't have a gauge for that but I could find one pretty quick I'm sure. Maybe I should add this to the list of things to test.

Good idea on the glow plugs, although that will be hard to time. I almost have to bring a wrench with me everywhere I go an pop glow plugs before I start it. I can't make the event happen 100% of the time, and if it does happen, it only happens once, and then the car starts fine again on subsequent tries, so I can not make it happen over and over in a row to test things. Perfect start every time on a cold engine, parked over night sort of thing. It has never skipped a beat on a hot start either where you just turn it off and back on again within a few mins. It is in that 30 - 60 min range where it is a pain. When I was commuting to work, I would never experience it. One start in the morning, and one at the end of the day. But if I were to zip out for lunch, it would have the issue starting after lunch coming back to the office, for example. Basically, if I pack a lunch and stay at my office until 5, there is not a problem. lol.

Yes, I agree no codes is a strike against the idea of a bad electrical connection, but the thermal aspect and the part where me touching a few things made codes pop up is odd.

The car has been in to a shop for this a couple times and they can never reproduce the event, so we never really got anywhere.
 

stefhelm

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 16, 2004
Location
Calgary, AB
TDI
2005 Passat Wagon
Oh, I was going to add too, just for background - This car is at 320,000km. It got a new head/injectors/tandem pump/cam at around 100,000km. Interestingly, that was part of a drawn out warranty thing do to in intermittent long crank issue!! It was a failing EGR in that case, but the dealer rebuilt damn near everything under the hood by the time they got a diagnosis.

My point is though that the cam would be at somewhere in that 220,000km range. I'm not seeing other symptoms of a worn out cam, but I just wanted to throw that in the mix. I have not popped the valve cover to look at it as of yet. It looked fine on the last TB change I did, but that was a while back now. Based on diligent oil changes with good oil, it will be as good as it can be, but I can't say it is perfect.
 

TurboABA

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Joined
Jul 24, 2010
Location
Kitchener, ON
TDI
RIP-2010 Jetta 6spd 2014 Touareg Execline
Log the crank speed.... you need something like 290 rpm min from what I recall.
 

TurboABA

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Jul 24, 2010
Location
Kitchener, ON
TDI
RIP-2010 Jetta 6spd 2014 Touareg Execline
Tech Tips
TT 23-01-11 Date: 2001
TDI Engine, Hard Starting
In the event you have a TDI engine with the complaint of a hard start or long cranking time, check the
cranking RPM. The TDI needs a minimum of 290 RPM during cranking. If the RPM is low, check the
battery and starter system.
 

stefhelm

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 16, 2004
Location
Calgary, AB
TDI
2005 Passat Wagon
290 rpm seems pretty quick for cranking. I'm not getting that but honestly don't know if I ever got that.

Cold engine, I pulled the plug on the injector harness and just let it crank. VCDS says 189-210rpm. Number seems to actually only be either 189 or 210 over 28 entries in the VCDS log. Plug the harness back in and it fires. Earlier today I DID have a long crank situation so I stopped cranking, plugged in my ODBeleven and it was reading 189RPM. I'll see if I can get a proper VCDS log with both RPM and some injector values, while in a long crank situation.

QuickTD up a couple posts figured closer to 200rpm for the PD engines. My thought here is if it is close to 200, and I'm right at that range, then yeah, maybe I dip a little low at times??

I had a shop check my battery today. Rated CCA = 800, Measured CCA = 718. Battery is in good shape, so I'm not sure the booster suggestion would help. If there is a limiting factor here, it might actually be the condition of the starter itself. 718CCA on a mild day should spin that starter like nothing.

I don't suppose anyone can confirm that BHW spec on what cranking RPM is? I checked with a non-dealer euro shop today, who was very helpful, but could not find that specific info. The starter is a bit pricey to replace without double checking the crank RPM requirements, and also a pain in the ass to swap. haha.
 

Mozambiquer

Vendor , w/Business number
Joined
Mar 21, 2015
Location
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TDI
2004 VW Touareg V10 TDI, 2012 Audi Q7 V6 TDI, 1998 VW Jetta TDI. 1982 VW Rabbit pickup, 2001 VW Jetta TDI, 2005 VW Passat wagon TDI X3, 2001 VW golf TDI, 1980 VW rabbit pickup,
290 rpm seems pretty quick for cranking. I'm not getting that but honestly don't know if I ever got that.

Cold engine, I pulled the plug on the injector harness and just let it crank. VCDS says 189-210rpm. Number seems to actually only be either 189 or 210 over 28 entries in the VCDS log. Plug the harness back in and it fires. Earlier today I DID have a long crank situation so I stopped cranking, plugged in my ODBeleven and it was reading 189RPM. I'll see if I can get a proper VCDS log with both RPM and some injector values, while in a long crank situation.

QuickTD up a couple posts figured closer to 200rpm for the PD engines. My thought here is if it is close to 200, and I'm right at that range, then yeah, maybe I dip a little low at times??

I had a shop check my battery today. Rated CCA = 800, Measured CCA = 718. Battery is in good shape, so I'm not sure the booster suggestion would help. If there is a limiting factor here, it might actually be the condition of the starter itself. 718CCA on a mild day should spin that starter like nothing.

I don't suppose anyone can confirm that BHW spec on what cranking RPM is? I checked with a non-dealer euro shop today, who was very helpful, but could not find that specific info. The starter is a bit pricey to replace without double checking the crank RPM requirements, and also a pain in the ass to swap. haha.
You're right about pain to replace! The back bolt is not easy to get to.
I use an oscilloscope to check the health of a starter, but not everyone has one. You wouldn't happen to have one?
As far as price, I happened to look one up today. For a brand new Valeo starter, I can get one to you for $199 plus shipping.
The b5.5 Passat TDI starters don't go out very often, they're very robust (thankfully with how hard they are to get to!)
 

stefhelm

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 16, 2004
Location
Calgary, AB
TDI
2005 Passat Wagon
No oscilloscope, no, but I think the numbers I'm getting from the VCDS are probably enough to show I'm in the RPM range that could cause trouble. Since I did the 5 speed swap on this guy, I have had the starter out. So at least I know what I would be up against.
 

Windex

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Apr 1, 2006
Location
Cambridge
TDI
05 B5V 01E FRF
99.5 MK4 jettas had a similar issue where the software imposed an rpm lower limit for fuel on hot crank. This was easily fixed with software. It could also be temp fixed by unplugging the coolant temp sensor. Unplugged, the circuit would default to -40c and the car would start instantly. Have you tried unplugging the CTS when the issue occurs?
 

TurboABA

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Jul 24, 2010
Location
Kitchener, ON
TDI
RIP-2010 Jetta 6spd 2014 Touareg Execline
If you're potentially not reaching the required "hot start" rpm, just pull the connection off the coolant sensor.... that should fool it into thinking it's a cold start and default to the "lower rpm" map instead of potentially cutting off your fuel.
 

Mozambiquer

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No oscilloscope, no, but I think the numbers I'm getting from the VCDS are probably enough to show I'm in the RPM range that could cause trouble. Since I did the 5 speed swap on this guy, I have had the starter out. So at least I know what I would be up against.
That works. I assume then that the starter was replaced for the swap. Was it a used one or new/reman?
 

stefhelm

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Joined
Dec 16, 2004
Location
Calgary, AB
TDI
2005 Passat Wagon
Coolant sensor is a good check. I was discussing the same with a buddy yesterday.

Starter is the original one. Same starter used on auto and manual. So it has had a good life, really.

Thanks for all the input here!
 
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Mozambiquer

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TDI
2004 VW Touareg V10 TDI, 2012 Audi Q7 V6 TDI, 1998 VW Jetta TDI. 1982 VW Rabbit pickup, 2001 VW Jetta TDI, 2005 VW Passat wagon TDI X3, 2001 VW golf TDI, 1980 VW rabbit pickup,
Coolant sensor is a good check. I was discussing the same with a buddy yesterday.

Starter is the original one. Same starter used on auto and manual. So it has had a good life, really.

Thanks for all the input here!
Ok, I wasn't sure on that, as my supplier shows two separate part numbers.
 

stefhelm

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Joined
Dec 16, 2004
Location
Calgary, AB
TDI
2005 Passat Wagon
So what's the story on a 068911024G vs 068911024F? I see the connections are in a slightly different spot. Seeps the not pattern on the face is the same. VW parts site suggests that the F supercedes G (alphabetically, that is odd). Myturbodiesel starter swap guide lists both as options.


I Ask because the F is listed much cheaper than the G. If either works, as the above resources suggest, I'll go with the cheaper.
 

Mozambiquer

Vendor , w/Business number
Joined
Mar 21, 2015
Location
Versailles Missouri
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2004 VW Touareg V10 TDI, 2012 Audi Q7 V6 TDI, 1998 VW Jetta TDI. 1982 VW Rabbit pickup, 2001 VW Jetta TDI, 2005 VW Passat wagon TDI X3, 2001 VW golf TDI, 1980 VW rabbit pickup,
So what's the story on a 068911024G vs 068911024F? I see the connections are in a slightly different spot. Seeps the not pattern on the face is the same. VW parts site suggests that the F supercedes G (alphabetically, that is odd). Myturbodiesel starter swap guide lists both as options.


I Ask because the F is listed much cheaper than the G. If either works, as the above resources suggest, I'll go with the cheaper.
They both will work, as I understand.
 

stefhelm

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Joined
Dec 16, 2004
Location
Calgary, AB
TDI
2005 Passat Wagon
I'm thinking the VW parts site I posted SHOULD be correct. Plus, the old Myturbodiesel posts have always been trusted resource for me. Probably order the cheaper one.
 

stefhelm

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Joined
Dec 16, 2004
Location
Calgary, AB
TDI
2005 Passat Wagon
Went with a reman Bosch starter. Installed it last night. Let's see if that fixes things!
 

stefhelm

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Joined
Dec 16, 2004
Location
Calgary, AB
TDI
2005 Passat Wagon
Well darn, that wasn't it. New starter and strong battery and just had a super long crank start again. Man I wish it would throw a code or something to get me in the right direction.
 

stefhelm

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Joined
Dec 16, 2004
Location
Calgary, AB
TDI
2005 Passat Wagon
Also noting the with a new starter, good battery, and jumper to my other new car just to be sure I can get power, the engine will crank at 230rpm. I'm not going to get more than that out of it.
 

stefhelm

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Joined
Dec 16, 2004
Location
Calgary, AB
TDI
2005 Passat Wagon
I've just noticed something. I'm getting full volts at alternator, around 14.2, but I'm not getting that at fuse panel or battery. I'm getting 13.6. looking in to this now....
 
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