Oilguard Bypass Filter Update

[GeWilli]

Long time old school F&L poster here... figure i'd drop an update on a test i'm running.

Way back in the middle ages of TDIclub-dome i installed an Oil Guard Bypass filter (the EPS-10 when it was sold with no hardware or hoses). And i bought maybe 5 or 10 filter elements. Well i was down to my last element at 150k miles.

So i left it in there. 247500 miles now. almost 100k miles on the same element and the oil is still flowing through. And trust me it is flowing. Sooo why not change it? Well its a barrier filter system and the filtration gets better and better the more stuff that accumulates on the filter. Just like the full flow filter or the pleated 'paper' air filter element. They are horrible new and just get better and better. (Meaning those changing oil more often than 10,000 miles are getting much worse filtration than those going 10k or longer).

Just a data point in the whole long spectrum of stuff. MCA (mycruiseagent) had run a few tests on the unit and he didn't think it would ever get restrictive enough to stop flow. Well 100k miles later and mine's still flowing.

And i will keep it in there until it isn't hot after a drive any more.

For a complete history of it and my involvement ya can do a search with the word "oilguard" and my user name.... some OLD history stuff there... even some good info.

-G

 

[ofhs93]

very intersting news Ge...so your thinking is that when we change the oil then we are better off keeping the full flow oil filter in there ehh? Just pull it to suck the oil out of the cooler and then put it back. Of course...once ULSD hits I'm planning on going to 506.01 and 30k mile changes hopefully.

 

[98JettaTDI]

Does oilguard still support that bypass filter? I bought one way back in the day and have never got around to installing it. Its been sitting in a box with everything I need to install in just waiting from some free time that never comes.

I'm doing a bunch of stuff to the car now and have been thinking about installing it finally, but I want to make sure I can still get replacement filters.

How many milies have you been getting on the oilguard filters?

 

[kiwibru]

Oil Guard still lists the filters as available in 3 and 6 packs. They also still sell the EPS-10 unit with an added feature that looks nice, a sampling valve!
Filter on...

 

[chirorob]

I still have one from years ago, I saw it in the storage unit with about 6-7 filters too.

I bought two way back when, installed one on the NB and shelved the other.

I haven't seen any posts about BP filtration lately, so I thought maybe it was just a fad at the time. I guess I should go out and source another hollow threaded drain plug and install this baby then.

 

[40X40]

very intersting news Ge...so your thinking is that when we change the oil then we are better off keeping the full flow oil filter in there ehh? Just pull it to suck the oil out of the cooler and then put it back. Of course...once ULSD hits I'm planning on going to 506.01 and 30k mile changes hopefully.

Perhaps I am mistaken, but I think GW kept his FULLFLOW filter and
added a BYPASS filter to the engine oil system. If a bypass filter plugs
you still have the full flow filter doing a pretty good job on your oil.
If you plug a fullflow filter, its' own bypass valve opens and you have
NO FILTERING at all.

Please correct me if I am wrong, I don't know these sytems as well as I
could.

Bill

 

[GeWilli]

yeah bypass in essence requires ya have a full flow... bypass is no substitute for the primary filter.

I have yet to change my filter (hittin 100k miles soon) If anyone in New England has an extra EPS-10 cartriage they wanna let me try or buy it'd be cool.... maybe i'll change it at the next oil change... when ever that happens to be...

 

[AndyH]

If anyone in New England has an extra EPS-10 cartriage they wanna let me try or buy it'd be cool.... maybe i'll change it at the next oil change... when ever that happens to be...

If not, let me know -- I have two in the garage. If you want it to come from New England, I can have my wife mail it from the Cape the end of the month.

 

[98JettaTDI]

I've decided to sell mine. I don't feel like doing anymore TDI work right now, just finished cleaning the intake and replacing all the vacuum lines and I just want to get it back on the street.

If you are interested in it, I have all the hose, connectors, bracket and mounting hardware needed to do it.

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=146361

 

[SUNRG]

i'd like to a see lab oil analysis of your used oil at the next change. then we could possibly determine if you're 100k bypass is "working" - i.e. resulting in cleaner than only full-flow filtered oil.

 

[GeWilli]

i'm done doing oil analysis - if someone wants to send me a kit i'll fill it up at the next oil change.

I just passed 250,000 miles... finally... the oil only has 5k miles on it - last changed in early november 2005.....

using the G-bam test i'm doing okay - close to where i normally would be at 10k in michigan, but the driving styles are wicked different here...

 

[TDIPASSATGUY]

I design hydraulic systems, and filtration (systemic containation control) principles of late show the lowest cost of ownership (bang for the buck) is the following.... Primary full flow filter at around the effeciency (absolute micron rating) needed without other filtration. Then use an off-line filter that is more effecient than the primary filter. This filter should have a bypass valve in case the element should clog, and an indicator to advise that the element is clogged. If this filter is doing all the work, the primary filter isn't seeing any dirt, it isn't getting dirty. Oil analysis is used to make sure the oil is clean enough for the application and no more. Additional cleanliness beyond what is needed wastes elements. Yes, a filter becomes for efficient as it loads.

GeWillii may be sending the oil around the element by way of the by-pass valve. He would see flow, but unfiltered flow. The flow rate is generally so low on an automotive bypass system, that it can really pack in the dirst before the element get loaded to the point of bypass.

 

[kiwibru]

Gee, all those extra filters I bought are going to out live me!

 

[AndyH]

GeWillii may be sending the oil around the element by way of the by-pass valve. He would see flow, but unfiltered flow. The flow rate is generally so low on an automotive bypass system, that it can really pack in the dirst before the element get loaded to the point of bypass.

Excellent points TDIPASSATGUY. One point on the Oilguard unit - there's no bypass valve in the system. The filter cartridge is a cast plastic unit wound with what appears to be cotton string. It's wrapped tighter inside, more loose toward the outside. The filter unit screws onto the top of the filter unit - the only way out of the filter is thru the media.

Andy

 

[GetMore]

The typical bypass filter installation taps into one of the ports on the oil filter/cooler mount and returns the oil to the valve cover or oil pan.
There is usually a restrictor in the line to keep this setup from causing too much pressure drop.
When the filter clogs the return line no longer gets hot, since no oil is flowing through.

 

[Georgeseq]

And just one real world oil by-pass horror story. We own a Chev 6.5TD which we installed a Harvard by-pass system to try and extend the poor engine design 6.5TD life. Unfortunately at 100,000 miles the return oil line came out of the attachment on the sump while driving on interstate. The oil gradually depleted and the driver only noticed when the oil pressure light came on and the engine began to seize. i.e. bypass filtration can be super but with all the hoses, fittings, may in fact significantly reduce the life of an engine and all of its lubricated components.. We are now looking at a $10,000 replacement due to catastrophic core... FYI.......
George Morrison

 

[kiwibru]

Yeah, another reason to keep an eye out for cracking on the Oilguard oil lines!
The standard A4 install / setup keeps those oil lines up top where a visual inspection can be done very easily to determine the condition of the life providing oil lines.

 

[Fortuna Wolf]

What may I ask is the standard A4 install? Install into the valve cover?

 

[mycruiseagent]

Hey G,

I've still got one left. I pulled my OG unit about a year ago because I got tired of changing weaping hydraulic hoses (never had one actually rupture thank goodness). Next time you're in the neighborhood give me a shout - it's yours.

MCA

i'm done doing oil analysis - if someone wants to send me a kit i'll fill it up at the next oil change.

I just passed 250,000 miles... finally... the oil only has 5k miles on it - last changed in early november 2005.....

using the G-bam test i'm doing okay - close to where i normally would be at 10k in michigan, but the driving styles are wicked different here...

 

[Drivbiwire]

Yes, there is a plug located forward of the vacume pump in the head, oil pressure is taken from this point and routed to the filter. Remove the valve cover, drill and tap a hole at the base of the oil filler cap and route the return hose to this point. This keeps all the hoses on the top of the motor and in view should chaffing or leakage occur.

This only applies to the 2003 and earlier models.

Mounting the filter on the transmission mount with a steel L bracket fashioned from 1/8"x3/4" steel bar stock allows the filter to be placed alongside the battery box, again minimizing the length of the oil lines used. This also allows you to feel the filter for temperature which is an indicator of oil flow.

These filter if allowed to go longer than 30,000 miles can develope an internal by-pass around the wound cotten element. This allows oil to route around the top or bottom of the winding thus negating it's filtering capability. This was common on the "White Plastic" filters, the newer black filter elements use a higher temperature plastic which reduces the probability of this occuring.

In all cases I suggest replacing the filter with every oil/ull flow filter change interval.

DB